[JackAus]

STG: V7
MTG: DWS
LTG: V11

M: Lot 33/34. V1, 2 x V4, 2 x V5, worked the V7. Couple of attempts. Still haven't stuck the crux throw again... Really annoying.
T:
W:
T:
F: Another new crag I'm developing, Flat Rock. VB, 3 x V0s and FA of a V4. Probably V5 on a warm day. Tough compression low down into an airy but easy slab. Very cool prob.
S:
S: Cheesedale. FA of 3 easy lines: VB, V0 and V1. Also did a line that got V8 in the new Canberra guide but it was a massive oversight/grade, as I did it in about 10 minutes and should be V5, maybe even V4. Still a wicked problem though!

[fried]

Pretty much had a rest week to sort out a few niggling aches and pains. Although in reality I just had too much work.

Mon-Fri - Nothing
Sat - 10h on sofa - bouldering/ footie/ bouldring/ footie.
Sun - Nice indoor session. Feeling fresh, lots of new stuff to tick off,  3x6A flashes and a 6A+ in 4 or 5 attempts on sloping blobs that I'm crap at.

A more chilled out week at work and I'm eyeing the forecast for an afternoon out on Wednesday.

[shark]

Thanks Jack

11.7-9

M.
T. AM CragX with Dave Mason. Worked Jericho Road and Zippys at end. Dave said conditions were bad but hard for me to judge. PM. Home strength workout.
W. Went to Wimbledon. Started to get DOMS in the afternoon.
T. Drove back from London. Still sore
F. Lunch. Foundry. Bouldered on Wave but muscles still sore. Drove with Tom to Edinburgh for YCS
S. Ratho. Volunteered for belaying duty but my traditional method of belaying was found wanting (palm up on trailing rope with a belay plate) so stood down :/ Snuck in 30 mins on the beastmaker Tommy did ok but still placed in lower quartile. Drove home.
S. Rubicon with Tom. 11degrees driving out - its nearly July FFS Made progress on Kudos getting up on the high right sidepull three times but not able to get left foot on anything sensible. Current sequence: RF on huge foothold RH into pocket/slot LF onto dreadful polished edge Right Heel on starting jug LH on minging sidehold pull up and rock up with great effort to get RH to next sidehold dab left foot around uselessly and drop off.

Dave made a good suggestion of training after a bouldering session but I went at this a bit too enthusiastically given I hadn't done anything similar for months and it took 4 days to recover from muscle soreness. Hopefully it wont be so bad next time. Pleased with progress on Kudos today especially as I'm weighing heavy now.

Summer goals: Bens Roof in two halves, Kudos, Perverse Reverse, Rattle and Hump, Jericho Road. Will introduce some power endurance training at end of summer and lose weight ready for the Autumn Oak campaign   

[Three Nine]

I will show you my sequence on Ben's sometime - I thought it was v steady, and I can't touch Kudos, Jericho or Rattle and Hump. Good goals by the way - that's the first one of your plans for doing the oak that might actually work!

[shark]

I will show you my sequence on Ben's sometime - I thought it was v steady, and I can't touch Kudos, Jericho or Rattle and Hump. Good goals by the way - that's the first one of your plans for doing the oak that might actually work!

Fancy a session this week?

[TobyD]

I will show you my sequence on Ben's sometime - I thought it was v steady, and I can't touch Kudos, Jericho or Rattle and Hump.

Are you referring to R & H the route or the problem?

[Muenchener]

STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Mostly a rest week

M:   
T: Bike to work 25km
W:
T:
F: Wall, Thalkirchen, bouldering
S: Hillwalking (alpine training) Hohe Kisten. Round Three of my campaign on this minor alpine foothill, having turned back twice in the spring due to deep snow and fear of avalanches. Nemesis this time came in the form of steep crumbly choss whilst attempting a north ridge diretissima. By the time I had retreated to the actual path it was time to go and collect M jnr from his mate's birthday party. I will get up this mountain eventually, even if I have to resort to walking up the path.
S:

[T_B]

85.9Kg

M - lunch, 1 x 10 mins on, 4 mins off, 2 x 15 mins on 5 mins off
T - Went to see if Paint it Black was dry - it wasn't. Neil's wall was dry so did that from stand, then tried the right hand from stand (felt doable/v morpho)
W - p.m. School, trying new circuits. Did 7b and worked 7c.
T - Flew out to Chamonix for 2 nights
F - a.m. Two hours at Church crag. Did a 6c, 7a, 7a+ and 7b. All 30 metre pitches and got stupidly pumped.
S -
S - Short late sess at the school. Bit of warming up then campus, managed 1-4-7 on both arms.

Varied week. Checked out PiB on Sunday (wife climbed at Rubicon) and it's now dry so will try and get out one evening. But. I have a strained left middle finger which I've been carrying for a couple of weeks now. Crimp injury so got to be careful on the lime and it probably didn't like the crimp on Neil's wall right hand Bit of a shocker doing proper long pitches on Friday - I am not very fit!

[kelvin]

Well that's the '3rd time lucky' chance gone... you're now onto 'persistence pays' Muenchener 

So work is the task master again, twelve straight days to Fri, then best man for the day and back into ten straight days. Has to be the worst training for a trip ever 

Mon - Boulder room. Tried proper hard for an hour or so.
Tue - Boulder room. So tried some things I was nowhere near 3 weeks ago when it was reset and really happy with the improvements in general strength. For once, trying to get stronger has actually worked and on one move, I could actually hang on and start to move my body around to sort the left foot. That was unimaginable two weeks ago.
Thu - Got on a rope. Comp wall 5+. Easy. New 6b. Easy to half way then pumped and powered out. New 6a+ - same haha.

Thursday I had no hope. Decided to make the best of the scaffold at work and that bit me in the arse at the wall. I basically climbed the outside of the scaffold once every ten minutes. So by the end of the day, I'd climbed over 190 storeys - I think this is the Shard a couple of times? Plus all the times I was up and down the thing anyway. I had a great route which involved passing the window of the office with all the fit ladies in it. The move here was a laybacking rockover in an exposed position - I looked right good in my Merrells and white overalls. Think Brad Pitt climbing K2 and abbing off a tree at the top...

Fitness attained but no date with the fit blonde yet.

[Three Nine]

I will show you my sequence on Ben's sometime - I thought it was v steady, and I can't touch Kudos, Jericho or Rattle and Hump.

Are you referring to R & H the route or the problem?

The problem. I've never tried the route, for obvious reasons.

Sorry Simon, no interest in Tor atm.

[cheque]

M- Black Rocks. Gardened some routes, didn't get much time for soloing afterwards unfortunately.

T- Rest.

W- Black Rocks. More gardening. Horrible humid conditions made it feel grim and hampered my subsequent attempts to solo routes that I hadn't done before.

T- Rest.

F- Swimming. Felt much harder than normal.

S- Walking tour of Nottingham's gothic buildings- basically walking round the city for two hours. Logging this as training as it felt like it!

S- Rest. Partner pulled out Saturday evening  , found prosepective new partner but then the weather crapped out. Just as well really as I felt really run down and did very little all day.

Bad week for training- cleaned and gardened some routes at Black Rocks though- feels like a bit of a futile task while actually doing it but it's really nice to look up from the bottom and see a climbable route!

Needed a rest this weekend- more due to lack of sleep than climbing activities though.

[Dolly]

M Foundry lunchtime I was tired and weak and still battered from the weekend and it was boiling and I wasnt very good. Pilates in the evening[size=0pt][/size]
T Beastmaker before breakfast
W Gym for core stuff then a little run
T Shed
F
S Trailblazer 10k in Clumber Park. Worried I hadn't trained enough, worried about my knee etc etc but it was great fun despite my misgivings and I was faster than last year which was strange. Kettlebell sess in the evening
S Shed
 

[csl]

June Goals
Use Spanish fitness - E5 Trad and 7b+/c sport. Done
Train hard to keep + build on fitness.
At least 3 days outside - 5/3

Mon - Rest
Tue - Biscuit Factory - Most of the new Yellow V2-4 circuit and a few harder problems. Max hangs on F.Board.
Wed - Biscuit - Circuits. Onsighted all the new circuits up to 7a. Tried the 7b+ a few times. All moves done.
Thu - Sun - Glastonbury Festival, knackered now.

Need to get back on the training this week, a shame knowing that I probably won't be able to climb outside till i go to fairhead at the end of the month.

[Luke Owens]

Monday: Dinbren, on the proj
Better beta sorted for crux. Massive link from between the 1st and 2nd clip to the top. All clipping positions sorted.

Tuesday: Dinbren, on the proj
Did some big links on lead, clipping the 3rd bolt feels like the crux now! Greasy conditions with no breeze and lack of skin meant the redpoints will have to wait!

Wednesday:

Thursday: Random day off work went bouldering in the Pass

Worked the moves on Arse Soul (7A) and then did Paul's Bulge (6C) 2nd go and Six Pack (6C). Tried King of Drunks (7A)a few times with no progress. Went up to try Killer Weed (6C+), zero skin left and lack of time meant I did all the moves but didn't link them.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Back bouldering in the Pass, still felt tired from Thursday. Came frustrating close on Arse Soul, kept falling off after the crux move. Sorted the top move then couldn't do it all because I split 5 tips...Yes 5!

Went over to King of Drunks, can now do top move but didn't have it in me to link the whole thing and skin was screaming.

Went up to Weed Killer and felt greasing off it in a mixture of blood, sweat and agony...

Took ~2.5 hours to get home due to traffic, should of gone sport climbing...

-----------

I'm getting the feeling I'm not eating or sleeping enough, I hardly have any energy when I'm out. I'm not recovering from my sessions at all at the moment. That combined with now annihilated skin is effecting the psyche.

[french erick]

I commute on the bike 6 miles a day every day, all year. Do try to stretch most mornings, so won't mention that. (not last week was being a single parent working full time).

STG:Now on barrows energy system. Try to understand a cap/an cap...
MTG: tick 3 particular routes on upper cave crag at Dunkeld, 1 at Ardmair and start project boulder in Torridon.
LTG: that's E4/ VIII,8? Cool I'll onsight it then.
VLTG: Romantic Warrior, needles, CA

Not a big week on volume, but great on rock time.

Monday+Tuesday Worldcup due to a sore back
Wednesday Crag session. sent STG project at 7a+ (not my style at all) on the 4th attempt over 3 sessions. Despite back ache!
Thursday Worldcup still nursing sore back
Friday 1:20 at home an cap/ a cap. Back still not right but good to stretch it.
Saturday Crag session stole on really effy forecast. Got rained off after a mad dash to get as many routes done with no rests up to 6c+ (the latter I finished under the rain and it never went easier!) as possible.
Sunday Family day plus a wee mucking around session of 40min (pure fun).

I am pleased. Progress is how I imagined it would be at this stage of the new-training-me: slow but steady. How long before this is no longer the case will depend on how well I manage to do a cap- finding working on that hellishly difficult on my homewall... I am nowhere near 10min of easy pump on wall! Let alone 40min of total a cap exercise. Is Barrows  a mutant or what? (I knew nothing of the guy before it was pointed out to me on here)

[webbo]

Mon/Tue Nothing resting foot.
Wed. Bike one hour intervals.
Thu. Board a bit of crap session.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board did a couple of new things and repeated some stuff. Dumbbell session. Bike one hour intervals.
Sun. Turbo one hour.
Shitty week foot not improving booked in for an X-ray next week.

[Sasquatch]

It's been about a month since I last posted.  Headed out of town for 3 weeks, and then was too busy the first week back.STG - 5 local FA's 7C+ and harder
MTG - Local 8B boulder?
LTG - Mandala in November

M- FB MAW, Deadlifts
T- Yoga, ARc, Soccer game
W-Rest
Th-FB MAW, DL, Levers, Abs
F- Got out to local sport crag and cleaned and bolted a new variation.  Links the cruxes of two 7c+ routes with some 7b climbing.  Stoked to get it cleaned.  Worked by the time I was done cleaning and bolting, but managed one good go that saw me come off the very last hard move about 5 feet from the chains.
S-Rest
S- Back out to try the new line again.  Warmed up a bit, then managed to fire it first go after hanging the draws.  New 8a/+!

Psyched to bolt and send the new route, but actually bummed it wasn't harder   I'm looking for a couple of 8b+/c ish sport projects up here, but haven't been able to find any. 

Looking good for the summer so far!

[shark]

It's been about a month since I last posted.  Headed out of town for 3 weeks, and then was too busy the first week back.

 

Was wondering where you'd gone to

[Sasquatch]

Was going to do a recap and realized in three weeks I'd gone climbing three times in Tahoe. once for about 30 minutes with my wife, one nice solo day checking out three areas up at tahoe, and one day geting lost in the woods for 2 hours and not finding a single problem.   not much to report.....

Pretty excited to be back in the swing of things for the summer, and finally feeling fully recoved from my March A1 injury.

[EdGowSmith]

Bit late, but oh well...

7A:    25/50
7A+:  12/40
7B:    5/30
7B+:  5/20
7C or harder:    2/10

Stretches: 0/4

Mon: Nothing
Tues: Nothing.
Wed: Hopes Nose in the morning, did a project that's maybe 7B+, maybe easier. Then Bunker in the evening. Despite feeling pretty shit did the last 2 projects on the systems board. Now for some harder ones!
Thurs: Anstey's with Rory. Did a project to 1m below the lip. Very chossy and highball top-out that I'm not sure will go.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Unable to get a lift anywhere, so had a long training session at the Bunker. Gaining a bit of crimp strength.
Sun: Anstey's in the evening. Did some eliminates and then explored a bit.

Worst week of the year, possibly. Feeling quite ill so no stretches and not much training... Should start planning my training a bit more, especially now I have more time for it.