[shark]

11.6-7

M.
T.AM. Tor. Bit greasy but OK. Still struggling on start of Ben's. Have two potential sequences. Getting better at toe hooking. Had another play on Perverse start at the end. Maybe should have had two rest days.
W. Rubicon for a change. Joined a couple of lads from Chesterfield. Warmed up on problems above the traverse wall and then started on Kudos only to find a key (for me) foothold gone    Also a bit warm. Tried Bigger Splash too.
T.
F. AM. Tor. Good temps. Bouldered on start of Ben's No progress but high right toe hook seems to be way to go. Played on Perverse start at end. Again, maybe should've had two days rest. Good to be out though
S.
S. AM. Went with Poppy and her friend to Rubicon. Did some variations on the up problems on the Traverses wall. Did a bit better on Kudos then Jim Pope showed up and demo'ed some better foot beta. Look forward to trying it this way when fresh

Quietly enjoying the low key / low stress lime bouldering at the moment. Still not been to the School but better to make the most of the good weather and flexibility I have at the moment I think. Having a sess with Dave Mason at CragX on Tuesday so that will be a schooling..

[kelvin]

Thanks shark. Jealous of the outdoor sessions 

Worked 7 days this week, up and down a 4 storey scaffold and it's been good for the general fitness I guess.

Managed 4 short indoor boulder sessions. Happy to say that I felt stronger than normal by the end of the week, not so much in the fingers but in the arms and shoulders. Did a few moves that had felt stupidly hard before but still not got anywhere on full problems. If work wasn't so mad, I think I'd be climbing well of late.

Did lot's of squats, some with weight and plenty of pressups too. The Crusher board/rail arrived also, so I'll be able to set about being able to do pullups again.

Also started converting the back of the van for the Swiss trip. My mate Gemma is gonna fly out for two weeks now and thus a bit more storage is needed. A Berlingo, two climbers, lots of kit and it being the bedroom makes for interesting. At least the Snap pad gives a good night's rest...

[JackAus]

STG: V7
MTG: DWS
LTG: V11

M:
T: Lot 33. V0, V1, 2 x V4 that I haven't done before. Both quite fun. And still worked V7 at end of session. Skin was shit by this point. Also tried a couple moves on an unrepeated V14. Could hold some of the positions but couldn't do a move....
W:
T: Grotto. Big sport crag. Just doing random boulder problems through it. Just 2 lines before work. One marked with "V6 Sit Start" felt V4. The other slightly harder but not worth V5.
F:
S: Lot 33. V0, V1, V4 dyno, tried to repeat a V6 dyno that I put up ages ago... Still can't repeat it. Backwards progress on V7 and first attempts at another V6/7.
S:

[T_B]

85.9Kg

M - 10 mins on, 4 mins off x 4 low intensity
T - p.m. School. Breakthrough sess. 50 degree board finally felt 'normal'. Did Woodology and all but 1 of the moves on Driller Killer.
W - As per Monday but high intensity.
T -
F - 30 mins warm up and 1-4-7 on campus board
S - 4 hr morning round trip to Two Tier. Warmed up at home, then on 6b+ and 7a, had a o/s attempt at Minos, getting through the boulder problem but fell off at 3rd bolt at crux of Celebration where it gets all techy. Worked rest of it, then redpointed 1st go. Home for 1pm, then Cliffhanger with the boys.
S -

Despite eating everything within sight at the moment, I had my best session up the School on Tuesday and finally imagined being able to climb 7C on the 50 degree again. Did first couple of moves of the Schoolboy which had seemed ridiculous last week. Great to get on a rope on Saturday morning, but Peak lime is soooo hard for on-sighting. Definitely got some fitness coming through from the lunch time AeroCap sessions...

[Dolly]

M Pilates
T Shed
W 10 easy routes in 20 minutes on the autobelay at the Foundry. The extent of my route training.
T Beer crisps football disappointment
F Eventually got to Langdale @7:30 4 and a half hours after leaving Leeds. Just couldn't get away from the need to talk to work and answer mails. Managed to get one route in on Raven before the midges were too much
S Gimmer (Yes I really did walk that far uphill) Did The Crack which is one of the best routes I've ever done. I loved every move and didn't want it to end.
Did a VD afterwards to get to Ash Tree Ledge but it was very cold and windy by now and we joined the shivering queue to abb off.
S Battered from Saturday's efforts


Planning to do a week of power this week and maybe a bit of running as prep for the Trailblazer 10k in Clumber Park on Saturday

[Duncan Disorderly]

Dipping in and out at the moment... Still trying to find psyche... Ebbs and flows.

M: Morning Yoga
T: Morning Yoga
W: AM: Short 15 miles on the bike to check everything's working after having a bit of an issue with my front mech. PM: Took 15 kids to Burbage, setup some topropes and an ab - If anyone here was there then I apologise for the noisy little buggers but they had a great time and at least 3 are super keen to carry on climbing - Result! Did a bit of traversing before getting midged to pieces!
T: Tor - 1st time back for at least a year... Got spanked! Just toproped Tin Of a few times - did some big links but fitness is nowhere near what it needs to be. Can't believe how pumpy I found the start traverse - sure I could do this without getting pumped last year  Drove back via Grindleford, realised the fell race was on, I had fell shoes in the van, and my legs felt ok.... Decided to run it! Great idea! Felt really good, didn't get passed by a single person until the sprint finish - not sure of my time but considering I've done fuck all running I was well pleased. Gin and crap fooball to finish!
F: Morning Yoga
S: Sharow Festival - maintained sobriety!
S: Decided to ride stage 2 of the Tour de France - Got the train to York and cycled home - Amazing day! Was running out of daylight so bailed on Jenkin road but still clocked up 118 miles and feel like I earned my pint and pork pie!

Did lots of stuff - need to get back to the Tor and work on the routes fitness - cycling and running fitness are better than ever so hopefully that should stand me in good stead..

:D

[csl]

June Goals
Use Spanish fitness - E5 Trad and 7b+/c sport. Done
Train hard to keep + build on fitness.
At least 3 days outside - 5/3

Mon -
Tue - Biscuit. Boulder + Max Hangs
Wed - Meant to climb, didnt.
Thu - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Pembroke. Trevallen, took a silly slip off Trevallan Pillar as the warm up, did it second go. Huntsman's Leap, did Just Another Day/Scorch the Earth - E5 6a and absolutely brilliant. Then abbed and seconded it again after partner flashed it.
Sun - Having an epic on a wet Darkness at Noon took up most of the day, went back down to do Headhunter, but was a bit mentally frazzled by that point, did Quiet Waters Direct, felt E3 to me. Then seconded partner up Keelhaul, which was brilliant.

Nice to put the fitness to use on an E5, fun weekend despite not doing a huge amount of routes!

[cheque]

STG- normal middle fingers
2014 goals- 20 15 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Pullups and pushups.

T- One hour swimming.

W- Black Rocks. Did some soloing but mainly filming and gardening.

T- Rest.

F- Rest.

S- Windgather- soloed most of the routes at the crag. Oldgate Nick- did the same. 64 routes up to HVS.

S- Rest. Sore and sunburnt!

Been up 'til 1 watching the World Cup every night this week so like a zombie but doesn't seem to have affected me too much. Get out on trad this weekend hopefully.

[EdGowSmith]

7A:    25/50
7A+:  12/40
7B:    5/30
7B+:  4/20
7C or harder:    2/10

Stretches: 3/4

Mon: Possibly fingerboarding?
Tues: Nothing.
Wed: Long session at the Bunker with Adam. Last important exam so most psyched I've been to train in a while. Roughly 5 hours of quite heavy training.
Thurs: Stiff so nothing.
Fri: Still stiff so nothing.
Sat: Dinas Rock. Awesome place. Despite being incredibly greasy did a 7B+ and 7B and then some nice easier stuff.
Sun: Shoulders and back very stiff, Anstey's in the evening. Got close on a project. Fingerboarding, crimp strength.

[the_dom]

Mon: Morning surf (my 7th consecutive surf), followed by some bouldering at the gym and some repeaters. Finger feeling very sore so decide to rest it for the remainder of the week.

Tues: Surf (8th day of surf in a row), followed by a quick yet hard treadmill session

Wed: Core session at home

Thurs: 9km run around my neighbourhood.

Fri: Rest day, drive up to Rocklands

Sat: Surprisingly good day despite decidedly not 100% finger - after warming up, did Born Into Struggle (7B+, but have done this before) in a few goes, didn't do Minki (7B, have done before) but did all the moves; Hole In One (7C+, in 5 goes after trying years ago - can't take 7C+ for this though as it's a dyno) and Buff the Banana (7A) in a few goes.

Sun: Very warm, but have a quick session working the moves on Poison Dwarf Direct (7C+) - do all the moves but one. This might be my project for the winter - especially if I can do the first hard move in the next session. Drive home. 9.4km run in the evening.

All in all, a decent week, but I'm very heavy because I've been eating terribly and my sore finger is annoying.

[fried]

Mon- Tues - Nothing
Wed - Finished work at lunchtime and quickly head off with the tent to le Pres. Evening session at Elephant, started on the yellow circuit then down to repeat the same blue problems I always do. Have a few goes on La Morue, but the sharp start deters a longer effort, need to work out how to get my foot up after the start.

Thu - Went to looks for les Mammouths but due to not bothering to double check the map ( 'cos i have a wonderful sense of direction!) I end up going in completely the opposite direction. 3h later I get to les Mammouths far to hoy and pissed off to do anything but scowl at them. Evening session at Petit Bois, knee tweaky after the first long walk since I twisted it, so another easy yellow plus a few blues and a red.

Fri - Back tweaky ( I'm giving up camping soon and going to start staying in gites) so finish the yellow circuit leaving my pad in the car, just me and my beer towel. Get barked at by Jacky Godoffe's dogs. Evening session back at Elephant but it's hot and I'm waiting for the missus to arrive by train, so don't do much.

Missus insists on us sleeping on some big inflatable matress and as a result..

Sat - Bad sciatica, I'm limping around the camp site and don't even see a rock, ver painful. Sleep on bouldering mat...

Sun - Wake up cured.  Back to Paris.

[Muenchener]

STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   Rest day. Watched Germany 4-0 Portugal with M jnr.
T: Bike to work 30km
W:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Mostly belaying M jnr; 40 minutes or so bouldering afterwards
F: Bike to work 30km
S - S: Family backpacking weekend (with super-heavy rucksack for training effect)

[Luke Owens]

Keep posting on UKC Fitclub and forgetting to post on here... Been busy moving house and mainly training instead of climbing until about a week ago where I got back into things doing a 7b at Dinbren, now got a 7c project up there I'm mega psyched for.

4 days on rock last week, had some really good sessions.

Monday: Pantymwyn - Worked on the July Rain (7A) traverse. Roughly about 7b route grade. Got all the moves but the footholds were seeping like mad. Did it in overlapping half's. Will go in better conditions.

Tuesday: Dinbren - Back on Flowers are for the Dead (7c) Got a flowing sequence sorted and located some other holds. Felt greasy but did all the moves. Did a good link from slopey crimp to the fat slopey pinch/sidepull.

Wednesday: Gardening!

Thursday: Dinbren - back on the 7c. Did it in 3 sections, floor to 2nd bolt. Then below 2nd bolt to 4th bolt 2 finger pocket and then from the pocket to the top. Need to figure out best place to clip the 3rd bolt.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Lower Pen Trwyn - Got the clips back in on Night Glue the classic 7a+ and worked out the clipping positions. Waited for the sun to go off the route and smashed it.

Didn't get pumped on the route and had a suprising moment half way up where I expect to have to be fighting a pump. Instead I felt fine and just knew I would do it, even though I hadn't reached the crux. A very memorable and enjoyable moment! Psyched to get my fitness back!

Sunday: More gardening!

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing foot really sore.
Tue. Alton wall which was hot and half of it was being reset but it was nice of them to charge me the full rate of £11 to climb. All of which was made better by climbing really badly.
Wed. Bike 3hours manage to find some quiet roads pretty hilly as well. Foot sore again.
Thu. Usual 5 hours plus trip home.
Fri. Easyish session on board. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Sat. Bike 3 hours foot not too bad.
Sun. Board steady session. Bike 1 hour intervals.

Not a great week a bit worried about my foot. My self diagnosis of Mortons Neuropathy has worried me even more.

[french erick]

I commute on the bike 6 miles a day every day, all year. Do try to stretch most mornings, so won't mention that. (not last week was being a single parent working full time).

STG:Now on barrows energy system. Try to understand a cap/an cap...
MTG: tick 3 particular routes on upper cave crag at Dunkeld, 1 at Ardmair and start project boulder in Torridon.
LTG: that's E4/ VIII,8? Cool I'll onsight it then.
VLTG: Romantic Warrior, needles, CA

Monday good an cap/ a cap session at home. 2:00
Tuesday+Wednesday Work and family so nowt
Thursday Session at local sport crag. 4 easyish routes before attempt at my 7a+ project. Close on 2nd go (fell after crux...nothing left in tank). Got midged off anyway.
Friday Nothing plan because of Saturday plans.
Saturday plans for mountain multi-pitch trad rethought due to weather. Ended up in Dunkeld trad cragging. Got spanked on one of my MTG. Fell off from last hard move of Marjorie's razorblade (E3 finger crack with a couple of hand jam). Pulled ropes and crushed on 2nd go. Blowing the o/s (saved for years) was a bit irritating but learned from my mistake still...
Sunday Family day

Things are slowly getting together. Not even too annoyed about Marjorie's (strategic mistake).