UKBouldering.com

UKB power club week 226 3rd June to 15th June (Read 3066 times)

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3078
  • Karma: +149/-5
86.7Kg  :'(

M - Foundry lunch. 10 mins on, 4 mins off (managed 4 sets, did half of the 3rd set as a bit too hard). 75 leg pulls. Tired!
T - School p.m. 1 hour, doing 5 problems twice, then trying Woodology again.
W -
T  - Crag X. V dusty and conditions felt a bit odd to begin with (slippery). Worked out a solid sequence for Jericho Rd, then did Moffatrocity on 2nd redpoint attempt. Key was sinking really low into an egyptian on the match. Then went to the Tor and did Weedkiller Trav a couple of times and messed around on some other stuff.
F - School p.m. Worked out 2 x 19 move problems on circuit board. Did 1 of them.
S - Went to Anston and it was soaked, so went back to School. Did harder 19 move problem twice (v burly, about 7c/7c+)

Really need to up the AeroCap this week if I'm to stay on track for October sport trip. Motivation was seriously waning mid-week and I've been troughing like there's no tomorrow. Too hot or too wet for most of the bouldering stuff I want to do locally and seem to be failing to tie into a rope.

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 786
  • Karma: +93/-2
June Goals
Use Spanish fitness - E5 Trad and 7b+/c sport.
Train hard to keep + build on fitness.
At least 3 days outside - 3/3

Mon - Rest
Tue - Biscuit
Boulders up to V6
Max Hangs
Hold 10 on 1000. Front 3, 3x10 secs. Back 3, 6x 10 secs. Biggest Campus Rung, 1 Arm + 2 fingers of other hand. 4x5 secs.
Wed - Westway
6a+
6b+
6c
6c - 6c - 6c - 6c
7a - 7a - 6b+ - 6b+
7a - 6c - 6c - 6c
6b - 6b - 6b
18 Routes total. Good 4x4's session.
Thu - Biscuit.
Bad session cos i was tired. Boulders up to V5.
Repeaters
2000 - slots
1000 - crimps
2000 - slots - back 3
1000 - crimps - front 3
Fri - Rest
Sat - Swanage. Too hot for trad, got baked while partner led a route. Then went DWS, should have done this straight away. Lots of fun, did Donald wheres your trousers and Fathoms. Then bottled it on Freeborn Man and jumped off just below the lip, felt so easy so was a bit annoyed i didn't go for it. Fun jumping in though.
Sun - Portland. Did No Man is an Island, 6c. Then put clips up Zinc Oxide Mountain for partner to flash, felt easier than last time i was on it. Still really hard for me as its my anti-style, vert and crimpy. Feels 7c to me.
Went down to Wallsend south and onsighted Troll Team Special fairly easily, finished off on Trad Free World.
Great weekend! Psyched to go back deep water soloing!

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Thanks Tom

11.6-7

M.
T. AM Tor. Nice at crag - fresh and breezy. Despite unpromising forecast no rain appeared. After warming up spent whole session experimenting on moves before kneebar rest. Cant hold it as a cut loose but Andy Cave showed up and pointed out his beta which worked for me. Just need to link start to kneebar now. Stopped at Barrel Inn on way back for soup and a pint.
W.
T. AM Tor. More work on Ben's with Andy but didn't get the link. Played on Perverse Reverse at end and found I'm strong enough to do a foot on method for starting moves/crux. Met James Malloch  :wave:
F. Busy morning then hotfooted it to Llandudno to meet Doylo for 3pm. Found him sitting in front of the cave being interviewed by Ben Pritch. Headed down to LPT. Only us and one other team. Warmed up on UTTB then I did The Pink Pinkie 7a which I don't think Id ever done before. Doyle had a session on Liquid Ambar. I failed on Bad Bad Boy as usual.
S. BMC meeting. Headed out late afternoon with Andy Boorman. Lovely weather with enough of a breeze to keep midges off. We did Plexus which is a classic multipitch E1 on Dinas Mot. Andy last did this 47 years ago  :o
S. Met up with Pete Harrison for the first time :wave: and went to Craig Y Forwyn. Only been there once before in 1985. Followed Pete up the excellent Sunset Strip HVS then I wobbled my way up The Snake E2/3 in one pitch which was taxing and superb. Was hoping to sneak in an attempt on Great Wall but the caravan park owner was out and about. 

Good climbing week - good for psyche. Placed gear for the first time for a year and ticked the North Wales Limestone guidebook team.  8)



cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
STG: normal middle fingers
MTG: 20 15 E-Points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Rest.

T- An hour's swimming.

W- Stanage afterwork soloing. Felt hard at first but got into it and had a fantastic evening- did Billiard Buttress onsight and had a kind of beatific experience at the top.  ;D I would have been scared leading this last year. I then got devoured by midges. 

T- Rest. Heady mix of live classical music and televised football in the evening.

F- Rest.

S- Wildcat with mate on his first climb after recovering from bad groundfall injuries- did 2 VSs, seconded an HVS but had to go off route to skip out the polished and poorly-protected crux (that's exactly what it says in the guidebook so I knew what I was letting myself in for!) of an E1- need a few more lime trad days before I can lead at this level again I think. Really enjoyed doing big trad routes for the first time in 10 months. Food for thought to see an E6/ 8a leader strugling after 4 easy trad pitches though- puts my finger moan into perspective. Met another mate at Black Rocks after and did that VS where you slide up a ramp.

S- Rest. Bit of a walk round Bakewell.

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5028
  • Karma: +141/-13
Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board repeated session from this day last year which included several projects some of which I failed. Flashed everything and a few other things. So it looks like there is some improvement. Bike 2 hrs steady.
We'd. Nothing.
Thu. Pleasley vale very hot, sweaty and midgy. Did lots but not sure what we did.
Fri. Short board session repeated a few things from this time last year. Bike short interval session.
Sat. Sat drive down to daughters in Hampshire.
Sun. Wiggle French Revolution 75 miles 4 hrs 55 mins and I thought that Normandy was flat. I was wishing I'd put on the cassette with the 28 rather than the 25 I was using. Windy as hell as well foot was giving me a lot of stick at the end.

JackAus

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 811
  • Karma: +56/-0
STG: V7
MTG: DWS
LTG: V11

Only climbed on Wed this week.

So very close on a V7. Done in 2 overlapping sections, both through the crux. From the start through to the big crossover and from the sloper through to the top. Just don't have the skin for a decent session....

Thats it really. Been too busy lately and weather has been poo. Finally have a day off tomorrow though.

EdGowSmith

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 230
  • Karma: +44/-0
7A:    25/50
7A+:  12/40
7B:    4/30
7B+:  3/20
7C or harder:    2/10

Stretches: 4/4

Mon: Fingerboarding, just crimp strength.
Tues: Nothing.
Wed: Fingerboarding, just crimp strength.
Thurs: Session at the Bunker. Rings and shoulder exercises mainly.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Hopes Nose. Did the first move on the mono project and then fell off the top out on another cool project that'll go next session hopefully.
Sun: Higher Longbeak bouldering. Did a 7A+ and two 7As and then worked some of the moves on a nails 8A. Everything was quite damp.

Really want to find an 8A to properly session. The one at Higher Longbeak seems too hard for me...

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Three consecutive long weekends climbing in a row, and between them two very tough weeks at work. Rather tired. No big redpoint grade breakthroughs to report, but a lot of consolidation mileage.

M:   Maltatal Day Three: hot, tired, thin tips. Did a few routes. I recommend the restaurant in the castle in Gmünd.
T: Rest day. Knee physio exercises, yoga
W: Twelve hours in the office, super hot weather, very tired
T: ditto
F: ditto
S: Sweet Home Frankenjura. Weißenstein. Did half a dozen routes on the left hand (easy) side. Belayed my mate on Panische Zeiten (6c), the first of the Big Three overhanging jug haul classics from Kurt Albert at this crag. Looks very much ok, definitely on the agenda for the next visit when I'm not feeling completely knackered.
S: Röthelfels

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
Mon - Nothing
Tues - Same as.
Wed - Indoor, stinking hot, don't remember much else. Physio stuff.
Thu - not much.
Fri - Not working, Franchard Isatis to try to get a few of the problems ay the start of the red circuit. Nervous as I've never set out to do a red problem. Warm up and then do O.K getting 4 of the first 10. Backed off a couple due to lack of spotter and usual easy-to-wheel out excuses. Played around on some 6A. Nce day out.
Sat - Footie
Sun - Back to Franchard. I've developed a back ache and choose to go easy, do the first half of the Hautes-plaines yellow circuit, feeling better, it's sitting around that does me in.

Move over to Sablons and fall off a 4C slab a lot, repeat some blues. Go to try Prise de tete, a lovely 5C red problem that I can't do; Don't do it again, but I do see my first snake in Font in 4 years, it was a t least a metre long, but disappears as soon as I try to get my phone out and film it.

YYFY, manage to convince the missus to let me go off for a long weekend starting on Wednesday. le Prez for me.

kelvin

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1293
  • Karma: +60/-1
One indoor bouldering session on Tuesday and that was it. A good one tho.

Worked a steep V3 with my nemesis of a move - the dodgy right wrist going over the left. Started thinking it was an impossible move for me but after maybe ten attempts (big rests between them) I managed to get it sorted. I was obviously strong enough but I think fear of the pain and even damaging the wrist is what holds me back. Still chuffed to bits that I did the move.

A stag weekend and a new contract starting on Wed did for the rest of the week.

the_dom

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +10/-0
    • The Blog
Again, I can't remember my goals, but I'm pretty sure that one of them is being able to climb sustainably, which is currently being threatened by a sodding finger tweak.

Anyway..

Mon: Skin is in a terrible state from Rocklands and fingers are slightly tweaky so have a 20 min session on the treadmill after a late finish at the office.

Tues: A good surf in solid overhead conditions and a 7.5km run

Wed: Another surf - this time in quite small, albeit fun, waves.

Thurs: Yet another surf (this time in really fun waves) and a short hangboard session. Finger feels slightly iffy.

Fri: A short hangboard session and a surf in little waves.

Sat: A long surf in tiny waves - learning to cross step on my rather small (9' dead) longboard and a short hangboard session. Finger still feeling sore.

Sun: A long surf in solid waves. Lots and lots of paddling.

Overall, frustrated at the finger, which isn't healing. Granted, I probably shouldn't be hangboarding. Off to Rocklands on friday so going to rest it this week in the hopes that magic will happen. That said, I've surfed a lot, which is always good.


Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2006
  • Karma: +83/-0
M Nothing
T Foundry lunchtime where I did 11 easy routes on the auto belay for some reason. Run in the evening
W Nothing
T Tor with Lagers in the evening. T_B was there and casually did most things without looking like it was any effort at all - most impressive- proper beast. Made some progress on Kristian's problem. Not sure about the suggested solution from T_B and Lagers that it was all about "moving my arse"  :)
F Gym Core
S Had a go and some of this new fangled "HIT" Did 6 minutes and was knackered
S Weather was wetter than expected so had a good sess in the shed

french erick

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 38
  • Karma: +1/-0
I commute on the bike 6 miles a day every day, all year. Do try to stretch most mornings, so won't mention that. (not last week :no: was being a single parent working full time).

STG:Now on barrows energy system. Try to understand a cap/an cap...
MTG: tick 3 particular routes on upper cave crag at Dunkeld, 1 at Ardmair and start project boulder in Torridon.
LTG: that's E4/ VIII,8? Cool I'll onsight it then.
VLTG: Romantic Warrior, needles, CA

Monday Nowt
Tuesday short but very inventive boulder session at home. found good problems and also made photos of walls to record them!
Wednesday Nowt
Thursday Crack session of 1 hours plus some aero cap
Friday Nowt else then my commute
Saturday Family day
Sunday Home session 2hours. Varied session.

I think I am starting to get my head round periodisation but deary me, you need to be disciplined to be doing it well :whistle:

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal