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Retrobolting Peak Lime (Read 27335 times)

mrjonathanr

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#75 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 24, 2014, 12:28:49 pm
reading that thread put me in mind of something (beyond why I don't visit the site anymore)....  :-\



Offwidth

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#76 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 24, 2014, 07:16:11 pm
Quote
claimbing there are dozens of important peak lime trad routes retroed

'Claimbing' - is that what Rich Simpson used to do?


No it's simply old age and fading eyesight alongside increasing tablet use: I need glasses.  The "important" word was in the original thread Mick responded to with his dozens claim. My meaning isn't super strict, just routes likely to cause a big fuss if everyone knew (like Northerners). Most of my knowledge comes from the bolt complaints in the history section of the Wye guide. I've still never climbed a peak bolt route but done vegetated, loose and nice trad ones.

petejh

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#77 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 24, 2014, 10:09:30 pm
I've still never climbed a peak bolt route but done vegetated, loose and nice trad ones.

I find this hard to comprehend!? Have you been saving them all (literally all) for the onsight?

Johnny Brown

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#78 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 24, 2014, 10:38:59 pm
I've done lots. I wouldn't describe any as a three star experience, a handful might scrape two (if historical interest counts), the majority none. A fair few would have made better trad routes, if such a fate didn't sentence them to dirt and obscurity, whilst shite filler in bolt routes sprout in the 'gaps' either side. Now I may not be a fan of artificial climbing experiences generally, but knowing Offwidth a little he isn't missing much.

Yes I am aware there is better sport climbing elsewhere. I have done some of it.

petejh

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#79 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 24, 2014, 11:05:43 pm
 :lol: you're a sour fucker sometimes  :P  There are some brilliant unforgettable(y polished) experiences to be had on Peak sport, for those that don't need to get their feel-good from kidding themselves that they're 'journeying through an unaltered environmentTM'.

Johnny Brown

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#80 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 25, 2014, 11:46:00 am
List your top ten then.

SA Chris

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#81 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 25, 2014, 12:26:15 pm
I think the words were "found environment"

petejh

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#82 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 25, 2014, 12:49:23 pm
If your point is 'how much have you done in the peak' - about 15 routes and failed on about five more. I enjoyed flashing Brachiation Dance and failing on Powerplant, I thought Clarion Call was decent; Sardine good and the hard routes on the Cornice are obviously good for people who like hard limestone - not you, fair enough. I'd happily climb there more if I didn't have a better area to play in right on my doorstep.
Top ten? -  Relative to what???

Relative to Yosemite?
The Bugs?
Squamish?
Ceuse?
Buoux?
Catalunya?
... ad infinitum.

Yeah, you're right - in that context peak sport is completely shit, why bother? Why don't people climb sport somewhere else, like Malham or Wales - but hang on.. they're both shit compared to Spain; and what about that mega cave in Norway?... or China. Better move to the place with the best climbing. And in that context peak trad could be thought of as equally shit if you wanted to be negative - why don't you save your money and go somewhere good like Fairhead, or Pabbay, or Yosemite or or or...
But what's the point of being a negative cnut by regularly saying how shit something is that a lot of others get enjoyment, challenge and satisfaction from - and which by necessity is their local option?



Potash

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#83 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 25, 2014, 01:43:35 pm
I both enjoy climbing peak limestone and appreciate that in objective terms its all shit.

None of it passes the "would you drive there from North Wales" test let alone the "would you fly across the world to climb there" test.

It is both possible for Brachiation Dance to be fun and not very good.

Offwidth

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#84 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 26, 2014, 12:09:04 pm
I've still never climbed a peak bolt route but done vegetated, loose and nice trad ones.

I find this hard to comprehend!? Have you been saving them all (literally all) for the onsight?

It sort of happened by accident. When the time came I might have been visiting peak quarries with my mates I was too busy helping on guidebook or website stuff. I find sport climbing at my ability level completely underwhelming and forgettable so it was never top of my list but have done enough in Spain, France and the US (and indoor of course) to judge it's not just a view based on lack of traffic. Most of my sports ascents are onsight flashes but I don't save them for that, I just climb as far as I can and fall and rest if I need to.

As for trad I've been lucky enough to do plenty across the world, including a fair bit of Californian classic granite to 5.9: amazing long routes in stunning surroundings but still I can get completely absorbed in a days bouldering or trad climbing on my local grit or lime.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2014, 12:16:55 pm by Offwidth »

dr_botnik

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#85 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 28, 2014, 10:21:42 am
Apparently there are 10+ lines bolted at Central Buttress W.C.J now?* Anybody got any info/been down recently?
*Source: facefuck

willackers

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#86 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 28, 2014, 10:26:08 am
A few of the trad routes have been cleaned up and re equipped and there are some new sport routes.

Someone told me about it yesterday as I was walking out of Chee Dale.

Johnny Brown

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#87 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 28, 2014, 10:37:45 am
Quote
I both enjoy climbing peak limestone and appreciate that in objective terms its all shit.

None of it passes the "would you drive there from North Wales" test let alone the "would you fly across the world to climb there" test.

It is both possible for Brachiation Dance to be fun and not very good.

Agree entirely, though I'd submit Brachiation is actually quite good.

Though at Offwidth's grades I don't think Peak sport has much to offer, it's a bit like MacDonalds - shit but we've all done it. My point was that I think it's admirable Offwidth has resisted following the sheep to the shit.

Quote
Apparently there are 10+ lines bolted at Central Buttress W.C.J now?

Interesting. Good to hear the trad routes have been cleaned, but 're-equipping' needs clarifying!

willackers

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#88 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 28, 2014, 10:47:09 am
Quote
I both enjoy climbing peak limestone and appreciate that in objective terms its all shit.

None of it passes the "would you drive there from North Wales" test let alone the "would you fly across the world to climb there" test.

It is both possible for Brachiation Dance to be fun and not very good.

Agree entirely, though I'd submit Brachiation is actually quite good.

Though at Offwidth's grades I don't think Peak sport has much to offer, it's a bit like MacDonalds - shit but we've all done it. My point was that I think it's admirable Offwidth has resisted following the sheep to the shit.

Quote
Apparently there are 10+ lines bolted at Central Buttress W.C.J now?

Interesting. Good to hear the trad routes have been cleaned, but 're-equipping' needs clarifying!

I think some pegs have been replaced.

Potash

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#89 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 28, 2014, 12:09:18 pm
There was a brand new shiny peg protecting the crux of Alien when we climbed it on Thursday evening.

As the crux was quite hard its presence was gratefully appreciated. As it is backing up / replacing an existing peg this would seem to be a sensible action.

The route was good but hard.

Offwidth

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#90 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
July 29, 2014, 12:41:59 pm

My point was that I think it's admirable Offwidth has resisted following the sheep to the shit

As I said: poor performance, lack of motivation and plenty to distract is hopefully not the most admirable feature in my very busy climbing life (nice of you all the same).

Fiend

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#91 Re: Retrobolting Peak Lime
August 26, 2014, 09:33:44 pm
:lol: you're a sour fucker sometimes  :P 

Not sure where to put this but I recently came across this gem of a quote from the Luck Based Scrittle People's Champion himself:

Quote
Adam Long -  on 14 May 2007

In reply to Toby Dunn:

I thought Moonwalk was very average, worth one star if that.


 :o :o :o Compared to the handful of two star peak limestone sport routes. Shocking.

 

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