[csl]

Goals for June

Use Spanish fitness - E5 Trad and 7b+/c sport.
Train hard to keep + build on fitness.
At least 3 days outside.

Mon - Fly back from Spain.
Tue - Rest
Wed - Westway. Single routes up to 7b. 3 sets of 3 laps starting with an onsight attempt at 7b or 7b+ then 2x a 6c/7a on main wall.
Did 13 routes total. Power Endurance not much improved since before trip, but no matter how pumped - seem to get on steep juggy stuff after falling off something hard and recover by the time i'm at the top of the route. So fitness good.
Thu - rest
Fri - Biscuit. Felt really week, fell off all the problems i'd usually onsight.
Sat - Brean Down. Onsighted Chepito, 7a. Should have Flashed Pearl Harbour, silly mistake so did it second go.
Chulilla, 7b+ - a bit of a spanking on this. First go up, just about did the moves, but found it really hard. 2nd go, got first half ok - but couldn't really make any links on the upper wall. 3rd go, got pissed off a stripped it.
Sun - Nothing

Brean on saturday was ok, but got spanked on a 7b+, no doubt a hangover and severe lack of sleep didn't help. But i wouldn't expect to find the moves on a 7b+ so hard.

I think it came down to a lack of finger strength, does anyone have any benchmark hangs on a beastmaker/campus rung that would show me whether I do have weak fingers?

i.e. if you can hold x hold - finger strength is probably not the limiting factor?

[shark]

Thanks csl

11.3-7

M.
T. PM Kids on half term and Sonia in London so took them all down the Foundry and ended up bouldering with Paul Reeve mainly trying wasp problem up the middle of the step section. Felt strong which was good as felt washed out and lethargic when I headed down
W.
T. Eve Foundry with Ben and Tom. Not such a good session.
F.
S.Decided to take a week off
S.

Felt jaded and demotivated still. Drinking too much and gaining weight. Taking a break to recharge my batteries.

[tommytwotone]

Felt jaded and demotivated still. Drinking too much and gaining weight. Taking a break to recharge my batteries.

Amen to that brother, very much the same here, in addition to a sore back, sore hip and tweaky shoulder.


M - shattered after being woken up at 40 min intervals from 3.30am-6.30am by the little one. Did no exercise but did go to local "family funday" and had a nice beer in the sunshine en famille. No exercise though.
T - day off work. Took little one to hospital which went OK. Did no exercise. Went out in the evening to a beer festival and drank a bit too much for a school night.
W - back to work, felt shabby all day. Did no exercise.
T - Took gym gear to work with good intentions, then had to use lunch hour to return home and let Fiona out as she'd locked herself in the house. Played snooker in the evening, and was terrible - got beaten 5 games to 1 but did take 2(!) frames to a respotted black ball.
F - felt tired and shabby all day. Did no exercise.
S - Fiona was away all day so spent day looking after Una. Did no exercise.
S - took the all-night shift looking after Una so was shattered. Weather too hot / humid to consider greasing about outdoors so just went to wall for a workout and climbed OK.


Having done a session at the wall I feel a bit better, but the hip is still bad. Think bad posture / amount of bending over and carrying the little one around isn't helping.

[Muenchener]

STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   
T: bike to work 25km
W: bike to work 25km

T - S: Sport climbing, Kanzianiberg.
Original plan was the Dolomites, but this was laughable given this year's early season conditions. Checked out (supposedly) southern Austria's premier sport climbing area instead. Major destination? Not by any stretch of the imagination. Worth the four hours' drive for a long weekend with a poor forecast north of the Alps? Definitely. Would I go again? Yes.

[french erick]

I commute on the bike 6 miles a day every day, all year. Do try to stretch most mornings, so won't mention that.

STG:Now on barrows energy system. Try to understand a cap/an cap...
MTG: tick 3 particular routes on upper cave crag at Dunkeld, 1 at Ardmair and start project boulder in Torridon.
LTG: that's E4/ VIII,8? Cool I'll onsight it then.
VLTG: Romantic Warrior, needles, CA

Monday Felt tired so did nothing (I will not get injured says he to himself). Climbing 5 times a weeks is way more than I have ever done...It showed this week.
Tuesday Hard bouldering at home wall. (1:00)
Wednesday Fingerboard 40min session.
Thursday Nothing weekend ahead plans
Friday Plenty pasta and drive up North
Saturday Climbing at Creag rodha Mor (super crag). Big, intimidating sea cliff. Climbed with no goals in mind and...ended up onsighting my first E4!
Sunday Rained off the West coast, drove south east to Moy Crag. Couple of easy routes.Got a 6C+ 1st go (I had failed twice before on it). Found 7a+ red-point project, tried it as a normal onsight just to see and climbed it to above crux then got powered out. Should go relatively quick.

It would seem that my training IS making a difference, contrary to what I initially thought. Climbing 45m trad pitches without getting too pumped feels really good.

[EdGowSmith]

Missed last week, again...

7A:    21/50
7A+:  9/40
7B:    4/30
7B+:  3/20
7C:    1/10

Stretches: 7/8

Mon: A bit of training at home.
Tues: Session at the Bunker.
Wed: Hopes Nose with Mark. Tried a cool project, and fell off the last move.
Thurs: Nothing.
Fri: Hopes Nose again, did a 7A and 7A+ on the limestone and then finished off the project which was roughly 7B.
Sat: Can't remember.
Sun: Went to Carn Brea but it rained so didn't climb anything.
Mon: First day at Godrevy, managed to do my main aim of the trip, a 7B+.
Tues:  Godrevy again, did some 7As and then didn't manage a 7B but getting close, need to get stronger on crimps.
Wed: Carn Brea. 7A and 7A+ and some easier stuff.
Thurs: Comp at Bloc in Bristol. Had no psyche really. Flashed 13/20 problems then tried a few others and just left. Didn't even try all the problems!
Fri: Rest day, feeling quite tired.
Sat: Session at Bunker. Didn't want to train too hard due to going Northcott the next day. Worked on crimp strength mainly.
Sun: Awesome day at Northcott. Did a 7B+, and then flashed a 7A+ that was more like soft 7A, but failed on a one-move 7A as the crimps were too small for me!

Really good two weeks in terms of problems ticked. Managed to do quite a few 7s including two 7B+s in a week

[the_dom]

STG: A 7C or two by the end of August
MTG: A proper trip somewhere north in October-ish and some ticks on said trip
LTG: Sustainable bouldering

Monday: Short indoor bouldering session. Not a terrible session. Finished off with a short session on the hangboard.

Tuesday: Core session at home - hanging leg raises, attempts at front levers etc. Felt pretty tired and not a great training session.

Wednesday: Another indoor boulder session, cut short by an attempt to forestall skin issues. Another short hangboard session to finish off.

Thursday: Really fun, but short, dawn surf in freezing water and great waves before work, followed by a 7.5km run after work. Then beers and pizza.

Friday: Rest day, drove up to a new-ish bouldering area about 2 hours from Cape Town.

Saturday: Woke up to heavy mist, but decided to head up to the boulders which were in perfect nick. Managed to get up a 7A, 7A+ and 7B that I'd done before. Not a bad ticklist for my first day on rock since September.

Sunday: It was raining so came home early, got in a good surf and a short hangboard session.

Overall, a good week, but too much drinking and bad food. That said, I'm still surprised at how this climbing thing is coming back - I thought it would be a much tougher road back. Heading up to Rocklands this weekend, which makes me happy.

[T_B]

85.3Kg

M - Works. Campus (1-4-7 both arms twice), then bouldering blues. 3 x half circuits on the circuit board.
T -
W - Wales work. Did The Weaver E2 at Tremadog in the evening. 1st trad route since July last year.
T - The Cave. 1 hr on the way home. Fell off going for first drilled pocket on Lou once. Stronger than early May, but time-pressured with 1 hour, sh*t skin, slightly damp 2nd sidepull and general negative waves : (
F -
S -
S - Rubicon. Low left - two sloper matches and 1 getting into the start of kneeling (just). Slapped sloper twice on kneeling and felt strongest ever on this. Muggy though and terrible skin still.

Light week. Felt stronger on Lou and felt smoother than ever getting foot across for sloper match on Press LL, but my skin has been terrible now for 3 weeks. I suffer from eczema, and it's normally really bad for a few weeks each year, but this is the worst for years. Loads of splits and 0 friction. Hopefully it'll improve this week. Meant to be getting fully stuck into AeroCap now (Rodeller trip in early Oct) but having picked up my fob for the nu schoolroom on Saturday, I suspect I'll be continuing my run of not getting up anything 

[cheque]

Saturday Climbing at Creag rodha Mor (super crag). Big, intimidating sea cliff. Climbed with no goals in mind and...ended up onsighting my first E4!

 

STG- normal middle fingers
2014 goals- 20 15 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

T- Pull-ups and antagonists.

W- Pull-ups and core.

T- Swimming for an hour.

F- Rest.

S- Millstone. Did some classics for much-needed quarried grit confidence. Finally feeling quite confident on it.

S- Stanage Popular. Did FBD, Easter Rib and some other stuff. Great day even though I had to leave early.

Feeling strong and confident this weekend.

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 67 miles 3hrs 51 mins.
Tues. Board repeated a couple of things from last week in better style.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board did a couple of new things pretty quickly, then did my project of the last 3 weeks first go. repeated a few things first go that when first done I had to session. Good session.
Fri. Nothing other than worry about daughter who is now in hospital with Pre eclampsia.
Sat. Daughter much better due to induced at any time. Board doing repeats before shoulder decides have some sort of impingement.
Sun. Become a grandparent at 08.40 spend the day driving to Guilford to see baby Cameron and daughter and son in law. Drive back having the great experience of being gridlocked both ways on the M25. 

[fried]

High hopes for the week....

M - Indoor, complete reset after weekend comp. Did tons of easy stuff plus usual rehab stuff.
T - Work
W - Day off, raining. Indoor, working the slightly more difficult 6Aish stuff I didn't flash on Monday, climbed better. Best indoor session since I did my knee in.
T - French Bank holiday - Raining, sore throat.
F - Sick, sad cold.
S - Sunny, Sick on sofa with cold.
S - Sunny, Sick on sofa with cold.

I'd planned on getting out a couple of times in my 5-day weekend....

[JackAus]

Another quiet week. Knee isn't doing as well as I want it.

M:
T: New seaside area. Put up 2 new lines and worked a third, highball line that has a slopey offwidth for the top half. Couldn't commit to it with the knee, one pad and no spotter.
W-S:
S: Lot 33. Pissing rain. First time back here in a good few weeks. Got on V7 that I'm really close on. Did from the crux to the top to warm up. Still couldn't stick the crux move. Always just millimetres short on it.

[kelvin]

Mon - work
Tue - work
Wed - pack and drive to Cornwall.
Thu - Rain. (It is Cornwall) Indoors at Life Centre, Plymouth. Bouldered. Flashed a couple of the up tp 6B things but I'm guessing at 6A? Struggled with one setter's routes but found the other guy's 'easier'. Enjoyable few hours.
Fri - Gokarting and much beer... then vodka. Stag night training.
Sat - Vicarage Cliff. Followed up some stupidly loose VS that was actually alright, then led a 3 star HS. Almost puked at the top. Felt rough all day. Nice venue tho.
Sun - Dewerstone. Took Jordon's sister on her first ever climb. A VS called Climber's something or other. She did alright. 

Nice to finally be off work for a few days. Felt so worn out lately. Had planned on Saturday to do all the routes on the cliff... beer consumption restricted us slightly. Two routes was a poor if sterling effort. Dewerstone was cool but again. One route! Jeez. Megan enjoyed herself tho and that's all that mattered.

Could do better.

[csl]

Saturday Climbing at Creag rodha Mor (super crag). Big, intimidating sea cliff. Climbed with no goals in mind and...ended up onsighting my first E4!

Good effort, that place looks incredible!

[french erick]

Cheque and cls:
It is a truly amazing spot with great climbing. Check it at:
http://www.alphamountaineering.co.uk/downloads/CreagRodhaMor-akaSuperCrag2.pdf

[Dolly]

Sooo wet on the week when I had 3 evenings I could have climbed straight from work on all 3 of them - a rare treat for me.

M Anston which was largely dry.  Did Beta Blocker and Last Stand which I hadn't done before. Wanted to do Alpha but the bottom tufa was wet as was one of the pockets.

T Walked around Anston in the wet after work. Went to look at Frodo which was proper wet and at Woody's which looked like the sort of place where Gollum might live so I got a bit scared and left
W Foundry straight from work. God it was busy.
T Core stuff at the gym
F Foundry lunchtime - which was quite good actually.
S started to feel a bit weak but went for a run in the evening
S Felt properly ill with that bug that's been doing the rounds. Everything ached and has only just started getting better

[csl]

Cheque and cls:
It is a truly amazing spot with great climbing. Check it at:
http://www.alphamountaineering.co.uk/downloads/CreagRodhaMor-akaSuperCrag2.pdf

I've been planning to. Should be up that way in September hopefully!

[masonwoods101]

Dolly the bottom tufa is pretty much always wet.... Take a beer towel

[Dolly]

OK cheers will do