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weird finger injury (Read 1448 times)

quejada

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weird finger injury
May 26, 2014, 12:50:17 pm
a week or so ago I had a very unusual finger injury, I was hoping someone here could shed some light on it because I'm a bit puzzeld: I spent a whole day bouldering on a number of 7a+ and 7bs problems which included a bit of eveything: slopers, tiny crimps, open hand pinches.. anyway, didn't feel any pain whatsoever, then the followign day I woke up with a distinct pain in my ring finger, basically throughout the whole finger, but more intense at the first knuckle. The bizzare thing is that it's not painful when trying to do climbing prehensions, like crimps or pinches, quite the opposite, I feel it pretty sore when trying to extend the fingers, like stretching it, or opening the hand to a full span with all fingers wide spread; or bending the finger 'backwards'. It's not easy to explain really, but it's kinda the opposite from a 'standard' tendon injury (or at least the ones I had so far): no pain in bending it in a crimp, or on a good hold, or a pinch. Just very painful when I pull back the tip of the finger locking forward the knukle.

It has to be said that this is the same finger where I suffered a major injury 3 years ago, when pulling basically on the same tiny, evil crimp over and over again for 2 days in a row (I know, very clever...) I managed to wear my tendon so thin that now only 1 third of it is left to fully funcion, according to the scan and MR I did back then.

SO I was wondering whether anybody has ever experienced the same type of injury? and if so, what are the suggestions for a quick heal?
« Last Edit: May 26, 2014, 12:57:24 pm by quejada »

Dexter

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#1 Re: weird finger injury
May 28, 2014, 10:01:20 am
I have no idea but this may be something

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=4609.150

the only thing I can think of that would hurt when extending

Paul B

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#2 Re: weird finger injury
May 28, 2014, 12:11:06 pm
I can't be of specific help but my better half is currently reading "One move too many", which I "think" has helped her to understand what's wrong with her finger.

The book is available as a PDF on Scribd (for free) and if you want to download a copy there's a cunning way to do so by uploading a unique (bot not necessarily useful) text document in return.

quejada

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#3 Re: weird finger injury
May 28, 2014, 03:40:07 pm
yes I think a friend of mine has got that book I need to have a look at it.
last night I went to the gym for a super-soft session, no hard stuff just nice and big holds on vertical ground, didn't feel any pain. still, when trying to pull it backwards or open my hand to stretch, it hurts.
a well know physician who writes in another climbing forum suggested it might be an inflamation of the Deep Flexor Tendon, and that some rest + ice could do the trick. will try that, let's see.

PipeSmoke

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#4 Re: weird finger injury
May 28, 2014, 03:52:55 pm
I don't know about you but all the finger injuries I have had in the past seemed to get worse when trying an easy gym session on big holds. I think they are just as much if not more to blame than the smaller indoor holds. Just saying with an injury their isn't really a soft/easy session indoors other than some traverses.

Maybe rest it up for a few days see how it feels, at least then you will know if its serious or long term.

 

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