[french erick]

I commute on the bike 6 miles a day every day, all year. Do try to stretch most mornings, so won't mention that.

STG:Now on barrows energy system. Try to understand a cap/an cap...
MTG: tick 3 particular routes on upper cave crag at Dunkeld, 1 at Ardmair and start project boulder in Torridon.
LTG: that's E4/ VIII,8? Cool I'll onsight it then.
VLTG: Romantic Warrior, needles, CA

Monday Rest
TuesdayRest from climbing. Weight session at my pals (showing me how to) dead lift &curls.
Wednesday endurance circuit 1:30
ThursdayNowt too much work
Friday Early am 1:00 session because camping out with DoE group on eve. Finger strength bouldering
Saturday after DoE day 1:15 an cap (I think) 15 moves problem 8rep (with adequate rest) then 10 min on wallx2.
Sunday Great 2:15. Hard bouldering then 15ish moves probl 8 rep x2 then warm down

Quite happy. The pdf explanations from alex barrows being slowly digested.

[T_B]

84.8Kg

M –
T – Works p.m. Campus, 1-4-7 on both arms x 3. Trying some blue problems.
W – Lunch. 10 mins on, 4 mins off x 4 high intensity.
T –
F – Lunch. 30 mins campus board, then wave bouldering.
S –
S – Warm up fingerboard. Stoney Garage Buttress in search of permadry rock and first route of the year! Result. Flashed Ozone Bozo 7c, then had two goes up kc’s 8a+, Tollbar. Really good sustained, fingery climbing on nice holds (mainly pockets), amidst the flakiness.  Cool crux move off a shallow two-finger pocket/dish with tenuous feet. Recommended for the connoisseur.

[shark]

Thanks Erick

11.3-5

M.
T. Eve. Foundry with Tom. Longish session (2.5+hrs). Repeated loads of the L2"s and a couple of new ones flashed an easy black and did green black spots in overlapping halves
W.
T.
F. Malham. Went on expectation of rainy cold conditions. Minty when we got there but warmed up shortly after and a bit humid which was disappointing. Felt ok on the moves - few goes touching horn. Good to see old mate Andy Perkins who I hadn't seen for years.
S.
S. Eve. Fingerboard session.

Opportunistic visit to Malham didn't pay off. Had hoped to take Tommy up there on Sunday too to get him back on Space Race but he was knackered when I woke him up so knocked it on head (sorry Toby).

Fairly ambivalent about climbing at the moment despite being light and strong (for me) so not psyched enough for an alternative Yorkshire project at the moment with all the driving and hassle that entails.

Unless I have an epiphany I'll potter about on bouldering (Wave, Tor and woodies) and bouldery routes and strength training over the summer to help get gains for Autumn onslaught of the Oak. Also signed up for the new Schoolroom.

If cool temps and circumstances present themselves will pop back to Malham. Got a week in July at the start of the summer hols with the boys in Llandudno and looking at going to Squamish with whole family in second half of August.
 

[csl]

May Goals

Onsight Fiesta de los Biceps - done
20 7's in Spain - 17/20 total.

Mon - Rest
Tue - Shit attempt at warming up at Boulder de Jon, then tried Cafe con Leche which i found underwhelming. Day improved drastically when i went to do Kikiriki - the best 7b i went on in Rodellar. Fell off the finishing jug on my onsight, did it second go. Then went and finished off Juan Y Fran 7a+ from a few days before.
Wed - Warmed up at Camino and then went bolt to bolt on Sayonara Baby 7b+/c at Surgencia twice.
Thu - Rest
Fri - Onsighted the awesome O3 at Palomera in the morning. Went to Surgencia and did Sayonara Baby 2nd try, such a good route. My partner and a few spanish people reckoned 7c, i'm not sure, but definately the hardest route of the trip. Tried to flash Sopas de Ajo, 7b+, got to 6th out of 8 clips before burning out.
Sat - Poo Cave - went to try and onsight the long 7b+ - fell above 2nd last clip. Then in the afternoon went to try and onsight Pince sans Rire - fell 3 moves from the chains - wish i'd found the jugs i used on my RP! Would have been my first 7b+ onsight so was gutted and stripped the draws.
Sun - Went back to RP Pince sans Rire - such a good route. Skin felt absolutely wasted after this, was planning on doing a bunch more routes, but the apocalypse happened and Rodellar got very wet!

Awesome trip to Rodellar - such a good climbing destination. My best ever haul of routes in 2 weeks, in fact, more 7's than i've ever managed in a whole year before.

Now, to keep this fitness and put it to work in the UK!

[kelvin]

Nice read cls 

Mon - Foot on campus session
Tue - Pullups. Can still only manage three in one go. Spent half hour doing as many as I could... maybe 25? Went running after.
Wed - Some hangs etc.
Thu - Knackered.
Fri - Lazy
Sat - Worked. Then 40th in Lahndan.
Sun - Worked.

Work is taking it's toll at the minute and I was glad I'd decided not to climb this week. Fingers feel better for a rest tho, that's for sure.

Off to Cornwall on Wed evening, so hoping for dry weather and plenty of trad. 6 days off. I am so glad.

[fried]

Long week of work

M - Nuffin
T - Same
W - Indoor, small wall. O.K strength coming back slowly.
T - Work
F - More work
S - My first ever indoor competiton. Can't say I greatly enjoyed it, but it was an experience. 30 probs in the qualifiers with 4h to do as much as possible. Did the first 8 problems like everyone else after that everything was nails and it was packed. Every private climbing club around Paris had sent its teams, the standard was high. A bit demoralising, mind you I had more than 10 years on the rest of the field. Got a work out though and as it was raining the forest wasn't an option.
S - First barbecue of the year, real charcoal not some gas crap.

[Muenchener]

STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

In which M jnr's birthday and other family commitments bring about pretty much a rest week

M:   bike to work 25km
T:
W:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen: quick early evening endurance circuit intervals after work.
F: Alpine approach training: 35 mins step-ups w/12kg rucksack
S: Oh noes. Sunny weekend at home performing family duties and no world cup bouldering on the telly.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen: endurance circuit intervals

[Dolly]

I climbed a lot less than I wanted to but felt stronger than expected today. Maybe theres a link
I was talking to Mark today about that gap between what you think you can probably do and what you might be able to. Ive been climbing for 32 years and part of me thinks I know when I can do something and when its too hard. I know thats an indefineable line but you get the feel re the moves and how far off you are. Then again Ive been reading stuff from @gymjones on twitter and Im questioning that view. How much more can you actually give or try on a move or problem ?
On Thursday I had 70 minutes in the shed and for at least 15 minutes I was truly trying as hard as I could. It was knackering. Properly knackering. I was battered the next day and didnt climb again until today.
Theres proabably a phrase for this in modern parlance, but for me its been a bit of an eye opener. Im not at the conclusion of this yet, nor am I 25 and therefore with endless time to experiment.


More updates to follow. Heres what I did


M Pilates
T Foundry where I was quite good for me
W rode to work
T Shed see above
F After having a nap when I got back from work a great sess on kettlebells
S nothing, well some gardening
S lovely run in Longshaw estate. What a great place. Havent been there since 82 when looking for mushrooms

[JackAus]

No climbing and crashed the bike. It was a good week.....

[duncan]

May Goals

Onsight Fiesta de los Biceps - done
20 7's in Spain - 17/20 total.

Awesome trip to Rodellar - such a good climbing destination. My best ever haul of routes in 2 weeks, in fact, more 7's than i've ever managed in a whole year before.

Now, to keep this fitness and put it to work in the UK!

Well done, sounds like a great trip. If I'm not too burned out after Yosemite (depends how successful the trip is) I'll be keen to put my fitness to work too.



STG - rehab. elbow. Lose 2kg by end May. LH&F BHAG in Yosemite
MTG -E5 OS this summer.
LTG - LH&F stuff in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

71.7kg - getting close to target.

M -
T - Westway. 18 routes to 6b in 70 minutes.
W -
T - Pull-ups
F -
S - Family stuff
S - Drove to Derbyshire to meet rope-gun. Raining so drank tea and talked tactics. Rope-gun practiced his clean aiding in some of the dirtier bits of Millstone in the drizzle. Late afternoon it was finally drying out and we did 4 routes including Dexterity and Piccadilly Circus before heading home at 7.30pm. Derbyshire looked fabulous in the evening sunshine, all green and pleasant. A very different light and landscape to Yosemite. The crag was deserted of course. A long day, a lot of driving on my own, not much real climbing but very worthwhile.

Another busy week with work and family. Still harbouring remnants of cold so didn’t do any aerobic work. I’ve not managed to do anything like the volume of climbing I need over the last six weeks for various reasons, nor do I feel like I’m climbing particularly well. The latter should come together once I’m in The Valley. Very, very keen to be there.

[cheque]

STG- Normal middle fingers.
2014 goals- 20 17 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Pull-ups, shoulder presses, bicep curls.

T- Pull-ups, pushups, various dumbell stuff. Managed to tweak right wrist a bit on the latter.

W- Swimming- standard hour breaststroke.

T- Wrist sore in morning but improved. A bit of core in the evening.

F- Wrist feeling fine. pull-ups.

S- Rest. In Liverpool for the weekend.

S- Rest.

M- Planned to check out Helsby and do some soloing. Somehow ended up at the top of the crag rather than the bottom so bouldered matless at the top for a bit then attempted to descend a wet Clashook's Gully with non-climbing girlfriend.  Went to Harmer's Wood instead- lovely place, shame there's not more of it! Lots was wet and I had no mat but did some very cool easy aretes. Would be great to return with mats and spotters in dry conditions. Fingers and wrist feeling fine.

[T_B]

I was talking to Mark today about that gap between what you think you can probably do and what you might be able to. Ive been climbing for 32 years and part of me thinks I know when I can do something and when its too hard. I know thats an indefineable line but you get the feel re the moves and how far off you are. Then again Ive been reading stuff from @gymjones on twitter and Im questioning that view. How much more can you actually give or try on a move or problem ?

I think a key issue indoors is that you can always move onto the next problem, plus problems don't have grades (or the grades are meaningless). It's easy to decide that it's too hard and to just try something else. How often do you spend an entire indoor session working on one problem? And taking proper rests? So in reality you don't end up trying hard enough in training and therefore don't get the gains you need to improve outdoors. That's my theory this week 

[Dolly]

Yes I definitely think there's something in that.
Particularly when you think "OK Ive only got an hour, better get lots done"

[SA Chris]

I guess it's an advantage of having one wall near you that doesn't change problems that often. I was getting down to our local regularly over winter / spring, and had just about mopped up everything I was able to do without much effort and one night got stuck into a single problem. I went from not being able to do 4 of the moves at the start of the session to, with some refinement of beta, some input from others, and just digging in and trying hard and managed to nail it in the dying embers of the evening. Knowing the problem was due a reset the next week also motivated me to dig in. It was only V6 (yes I know - their grading not mine), but not my style of climbing at all, so needed some hard work.

[shark]

How often do you spend an entire indoor session working on one problem? And taking proper rests? So in reality you don't end up trying hard enough in training and therefore don't get the gains you need to improve outdoors. That's my theory this week 

That pretty much sums up my normal session on the Wave. For the last 17 years. So I should be climbing 8D by now.

Looking forward to next week's theory. 

[csl]

...once I’m in The Valley. Very, very keen to be there.

Are you off next weekend? Hope you have a great trip, looking forward to hearing all about it on your return!

[Muenchener]

How often do you spend an entire indoor session working on one problem? And taking proper rests?

I do sometimes, but then the issue is often that it gets taken down just as you think you're getting close.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board spent the session working a problem. Got close getting as far as the last move on one go.
Wed. Bike 1 hr 30 mins rode 5 different ways up the local wold. 1 in 5 to 1 in 8
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board worked project from Tuesday a bit more, before giving up working and doing a couple of other things. Turbo 1 hour. Dried up so bike 45 miles.
Sun. Bike 67 miles 3 hrs 51 mins.

Not a great week too much eating and drinking.

[the_dom]

After plenty of time off from any form of climbing (about 8 months), I felt the motivation return and headed back to the wall. Winter has arrived and I think that if I put in some time and effort, I'll be able to make it count.

STG: A 7C or two by the end of August
MTG: A proper trip somewhere north in October-ish and some ticks on said trip
LTG: Sustainable bouldering

Monday: At the local climbing wall for the first time in 8 months. Felt surprisingly OK, managed a couple of 6's and even linked a 7A into two parts. Finished off with a short session on the hangboard.

Tuesday: Relatively dismal session at the gym doing turkish getups, shoulder presses and hanging leg raises. Couldn't be arsed, really.

Wednesday: Back at the local climbing wall again. Finished off the 7A from Monday and did another one. Again, felt surprisingly good. Odd. Finished off again with a short session on the hangboard.

Thursday: Trail run with a slower friend. Enjoyed turning around and running back down the hills to re-run them while he caught up. Because we're not competitive at all.

Friday: Short hangboard session.

Saturday: Really good surf in the morning. Climbing gym in the afternoon - another solid session. Celebrated with a few too many beers. 

Sunday: 11km run around the neighbourhood. Then spent the afternoon eating and drinking too much. Oh well. 

Am really surprised as to how well I was climbing after such a long break - hopefully it bodes well for the winter (and future).

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board spent the session working a problem. Got close getting as far as the last move on one go.
Wed. Bike 1 hr 30 mins rode 5 different ways up the local wold. 1 in 5 to 1 in 8
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board worked project from Tuesday a bit more, before giving up working and doing a couple of other things. Turbo 1 hour. Dried up so bike 45 miles.
Sun. Bike 67 miles 3 hrs 51 mins.

Not a great week too much eating and drinking.

Actually Saturday is Sundays. Saturday just being a board session and Sunday was Mondays.