[weakdave]

Has anybody used these shoes and if so, how do you rate them? I am intrigued by the comfort level with top performance claims and a few places are knocking them out cheap.

[kelvin]

I bought some of the Apache Lights... super comfy BUT no support whatsoever. I've not a hope of standing on some edges in them, I failed miserably to stand on a tiny edge in Suirana that I knew I could get in my Bandits. Got Bandits, did climb. I'm hoping I'll get some use out of them on granite slabs this summer.

That's model specific however and I think that Apache 5s might be a whole different game. I couldn't get them in my size that day, the Lights fitted brilliantly and I just failed to notice how different they are.

The feel of the rock through the rubber is better than any other shoe I've had, not sure whether that's down to lack of stiffness or the Formula rubber really - I'm not experienced enough.

[Muenchener]

I suspect you're mainly interested in the (supposedly) hyper-fancy Apache 5, in which case I can't help you directly.

I bought a pair of one of their more basic slippers - Puma I think - as an expendable wall shoe because they were cheap and they fitted. They were ok.

My mate recently wore out his Apache 5's, got himself a pair of Miura Velcros, and now raves about how great the Miura Velcros are.

[weakdave]

Apache 5 does look interesting but I wouldnt spunk 140 sheets on them. It was the pantera slippers and tiger laces I was looking at.... and maybe apache lights.

[ghisino]

i have one pair of apaches 4.

ok shoes but nothing more, possibly my worst climbing shoe buy ever

best:
-anatomically true shape. no particular baggy spots or pressure points.
-build quality. Possibly the best i've experienced. I'd trust them to last at least 3 resoles without holes, stitching falling apart, delaminations, etc...
-jams wonderfully in hand cracks (but not in thinner ones, too thick)
-smears well, in a very natural way, even if fitted very tight.

worst:
-they have a rounded inside edge similar to laspo's "noedge" but does not work nearly as well. The rubber is too thick, too hard and not sticky enough for this concept to work properly, and i found the inside edge to be the second weakest spot in the shoe. Fitted with sticky-soft rubber it might work much better...
-horrible EVA coated heel
-not really pointy enough for pockets


the downsides might not be obvious in a shop or on plastic but they are on small rock features.
(i still can't believe how i ended up paying so much for them...)

overall i might buy or advise any of their more traditional looking models (edges on sole, ordinary heel) but won't trust again their innovations.