Finished reading this last night and thoroughly enjoyed it. The best pieces were articles by Livesey himself as I wrote earlier, but the story about sneaking into the show caves was hilarious.
The appendix has a great article on training from High 24 (November 1984) called
You Too Can Have a Body Like Mine that is great. Near the start...
Wherever we finally take a stance it should be said that although trning may be part of climbing, it must never be a compulsory or an essential pat.
He goes on to break down training into three areas, including psychological, making the point that training should be specific to the goal (bouldering is not going to get you up mountain routes), and that the biggest gains, and greatest benefits can be obtained by working weaknesses. Not masses of depth or specificity...
I haven't prescribed any training schedules because these must be individually tailored to the needs of each climber, so that any specific aspect of a specific activity can be improved upon.
Many would probably consider this to be common sense in light of what people know and do these days, but it was fairly new then.
I'd recommend the book as its funny, entertaining and insightful.
