[Steve R]

Sorry,  self indulgent thread but.... if you were trying the following route:
-average angle ~50degrees
- 6 clips and ~ 17 hand moves
-mainly compression, heels, pinches.
- very resistant with no definite crux but no shakes either
and you:
- could climb deck to clip 3 and clip to clip the rest reliably (but not a huge amount more than that)
-have access to a 45 degree board 

What training would you do? 

I know it's difficult trying to speculate with these things just over the net and obviously I've got some ideas but thought there's no harm in asking....

Biggest uncertainties for me are, despite being strong enough to do all moves relatively ok in isolation, how much focus should I shift away from strength onto training PE (or more specifically An Pow and/or An Cap)?  And what length and difficulty circuit I should I devise for it to be efficient?
Going on the route at the moment (early days) feels great for familiarisation but more like a bouldering session as my links are so small.  So not much training effect by going on it at the moment?
cheers

[jwi]

4x4 on 4 6-moves boulder problems of equal difficulty as a forth of the route, increasing the difficulty of the problems, rather than volume, over time

[Stu Littlefair]

What jwi said. Sounds like an amazing project. What/where is it?

[abarro81]

Could also try jwi' s suggestion but start with, say 20s rest between the 4 problems, and reduce that rest slightly each session until can do it with no rests.

[Tommy]

There's quite a good way of assessing if you just need to spend more time on the route (rather than going back and getting stronger) and that is to:

Break the route into whatever sections you feel like. Time the length of each section ("work time") to climb. Apply a rest period between each section equivalent to the "work time" on the previous section.

If rest time < work times = continue working / getting fitter
If rest time > work times = get stronger / work AnCap or train on move replicas.

I've found it works well providing you are already a route climber. If you're a boulderer with no route experience... Well, yer screwed ;-)

[Steve R]

Thanks very much for the useful replies -will get cracking on setting the first generation of problems tomorrow night. 

What jwi said. Sounds like an amazing project. What/where is it?

It is really good - Amadeus, Grotte de Sabart.  Big step up for me for but exciting as I think if I get my training right it's feasible later this year.  Of the ones I've tried, It's the only route in the Grotte that I actually like the climbing on. 

Thanks Tommy, that sounds like a good general rule of thumb to me.  Will check out some timings next session.

[Stu Littlefair]

Damn, that looks good! 

[Nibile]

Break the route into whatever sections you feel like. Time the length of each section ("work time") to climb. Apply a rest period between each section equivalent to the "work time" on the previous section.

If rest time < work times = continue working / getting fitter
If rest time > work times = get stronger / work AnCap or train on move replicas.

I don't get it.
Example.
The route has four sections: 1'; 1'30";45";1'30". 4'45" work time.
Rests will be: 1'; 1'30";45". 3'15" rest time.
But, won't the rest time be always shorter than the work time, given that after the last section you'll be at the chain and you won't need any more rest?
What am I missing?

[Nigel]

I'm confused too! C'mon Tommy help a thicko out!

[Sasquatch]

What am I missing?

I've found it works well providing you are already a route climber. If you're a boulderer with no route experience... Well, yer screwed ;-)

Route climbers use different math.  We don't understand as we're boulderers
(Even if we pretend and use a rope sometimes we're still boulderers)

Damn, that looks good! 

[Steve R]

Break the route into whatever sections you feel like. Time the length of each section ("work time") to climb. Apply a rest period between each section equivalent to the "work time" on the previous section.

If rest time < work times = continue working / getting fitter
If rest time > work times = get stronger / work AnCap or train on move replicas.

I don't get it.
Example.
The route has four sections: 1'; 1'30";45";1'30". 4'45" work time.
Rests will be: 1'; 1'30";45". 3'15" rest time.
But, won't the rest time be always shorter than the work time, given that after the last section you'll be at the chain and you won't need any more rest?
What am I missing?

I think the answer is yes to the first question but I don't think he means overall rest time - just each rest time between sections.  As I understand it, using your example, if you do section 1 then rest for 1' (or less) and can then do section 2 then rest 1'30"  (or less) and can then do section 3, rest 45".... and so on until you're at the chains then you don't need to do much more other than keep trying the route.  If however you can't manage that on one or more sections then you need to do something more.