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UKB Power Club Week 222 12th May - 18th May (Read 7989 times)

fried

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Mon - Nothing
Tues - Indoor, did a couple of blue circuit probs (6A ish) that I'd backed off due to knee/ elbow probs. Feeling back to normal, although strength has disappeared at an alarming rate.
Wed - Nowt
Thu - First BM session in a long while 3 sets- 30mins
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Group picnic at Sabots, the idea is I take one of their sons for a climb while all the adults sit in the sun drinking wine. Then I drive them home. Did a good few yellows, but the son was a little short for some of the probs and his feet hurt, I knocked off some blues, got hopelessly shut down on any reds I tried. Spent a good while trying 'la porte à faux'  http://bleau.info/sabots/5734.html. Played around on the blue thing with the holes that gets grade anywher from 4C to 7A depending on which holes you use, how static you climb and who you listen to. I managed to convince some youths that it was 4C... we didn't have much luck. Basically a normal sabots day for me. Get home in time to watch Shauna take gold.

Sun - Might do some push ups later or I might just sit in the sun and drink beer.

Muenchener

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STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

In which I don't enjoy doing routes on plastic, but do enjoy watching people bouldering on plastic.

M:   rest day
T: Not a rest day. Knee physio exercises, kettlebell TGUs, 50 mins step-ups w/12kg rucksack
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. In which I realise I've only tied on to a rope on plastic about half a dozen times this year, and that's because I don't particularly enjoy it. Should probably start doing a bit more again though; it's important for endurance and socialising.
   5b 6a 6a+ 6a 6c+ (proj, bolt to bolt) 6a+
   Enjoyed the last couple of routes (could already smell the post-climbing weissbier)
T:
F: Wall, Thalkirchen; quick early evening endurance intervals session after work.
   Cycle to & from work via wall ca 30km
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. A dozen moderate problems to warm up, then working a 7a circuit. Did all the moves bar one, but that one seemed utterly ridiculous. No Innsbruck semis on the telly in the cafe: amateurs. Got home in time for the finals though. Allez Shauna.
S: Knee physio & mobility; kettlebell TGUs; half an hour of Gimme Kraft manoeuvres on the pull-up bar in the park.

kelvin

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Not the best week. The left knee just isn't happy at the moment and work is full on... I guess like most people eh?

Mon - A great session indoors, leading. Didn't get to the top of anything harder than 5+ but had a go at 6b etc and more importantly, didn't hesitate to take a fall or risk one. Took one big flyer from the last move on an overhang and it felt like fun. This is the first time since I hit the deck back in March. Also got on a 6c on toprope when I was totally knackered, fell off lots but it didn't feel like I shouldn't be on it. Definitely made progress mentally. Too battered at the end to do any hangs.
Tue - Rest
Wed - Boulder room but just not there with the knee. Did some foot on campus stuff but even that was hurting it, so sloped off home.
Thu - fell asleep on the sofa after work.
Fri - Finishing a job.
Sat - Worked and after, did some training for the stag weekend. Amarreto sambucca is evil. Pure evil.
Sun - Short session in the boulder room helping someone with drop knee technique. Which I find bizarre when I'm so crap but it obviously helped them as they managed their first V2.

Need to focus on getting the knee strong for the summer I think. So I'm basically just going to do two sessions of foot on campusing and one of deadhangs for a while and not attempt to climb indoors. This is when I wished I lived near rock  :(

The left knee has scar tissue from two medial ligament tears which can cause issues when the knee is inflamed and I'm almost certain I've recently torn a cartilage in it, which is what's causing all the trouble. The other knee has grade 3/4 damage plus severe arthritis throughout and has had three ops on it for various things but in general is no trouble if I take care. It's just weak and hurts. My thinking of late is that the left knee has been through the same wear and tear and probably needs a clean out but I've been neglecting stuff like one legged squats etc as I've been so busy, so there's room for improvement there I hope.

I think not getting outdoors much lately and the knee being how it is, has robbed my psyche. I struggle with indoors at the best of times.

I hate getting old.

T_B

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85.5Kg

M - P.m. 1 hour on f/board. Just managed 6 x 7 on front 3, did 3 on back 3. Just managed 6 x 7 on 15mm edge. Did some locks, 56 press ups and some leg raises.
T -
W - Tor. Hard to focus as had hoped to climb at cragx (wet) or Paint it Black (also wet). Did Powerband, then tried crux of Staminaband a few times, then looked at Boy band start briefly. Then got stuck into doing start of low start to Ben's. Linked to move into knee bar. Terrible skin.
T -
F - Lunch.  10 mins on, 4 mins off x 3 finishing on 6 mins on. Mix of low and high intensity.
S - Gardening, paddling pool etc
S - A.M. Managed to squeeze in a short f/board sess as decided cr*p skin + heat = not bother climbing outside. Water pistols in garden with kids, then 1.5 hours general bouldering at the Works. Did a few Murples. Skin still terrible.

Really suffering from terrible skin and generally being a fat git.



duncan

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STG - rehab. elbow. Lose 2kg by end May.
MTG - LH&F BHAG in Yosemite this June (E5 OS this summer).
LTG - LH&F stuff in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

72.7kg 

M - Mont Ussy - Orange Circuit. Drove home.
T - Work announces 120 people will be getting the sack in my school (15% of all academic staff). Not sure if I am affected or not. Announcement of redundancies, appeals hearings and final decisions will all theoretically take place whilst I’m away in Yosemite. Not ideal.
W -   
T - Shoulder stability - Elbow rehab. stuff
F -
S - Shoulder stability - Elbow rehab. stuff.
S - Curbar with Sean. 10 or so HVS-E1 including Peapod and Left Eliminate, both felt pretty tough in the hot and sweaty conditions. As close to ideal Yosemite preparation as you can get in this country. Sadly (!) couldn’t retrieve my Friend 6 from it’s lendee in time for an attempt on Right Eliminate.

Slowly getting over cold. Elbow is gradually improving. Still about 2kg too fat but chipping away at this. News about work cast a cloud over this week and it was hard to focus on training or anything else. Great day at Curbar on Sunday, just what was needed for several reasons.

Plan: less than two weeks before the trip. Hope to get one more day on rock with The Rope Gun next weekend, otherwise looking forward to some sweaty afternoons on the autobelay at The Westway.


Dolly

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M Pilates
T Decided on a run in the evening rather than Beastmaker which was much more fun.
W Quick beastmaker at lunchtime then gym for core and aero in the evening
T Rode to work then 2 circuits of Parkwood Springs at lunchtime. First time I'd been there and it must be 5 mins from where I work. Its a great place and I'll be there again. Evening - got to the Tor about 9 for lamping with Lagers. Did a few easier problems, failed on some harder ones and worked some others
F Rode to work and back
S Obv reight hot. Run over that moor between Gardoms and Birchens. Cleaned back yard and did load of gardening
S Too hot really but went for a very quick hour at Anston where I did the easier problems I hadnt done before. Humid and I was hungover. Tried Takashi sit start. Looong way to the pocket and its not that good - maybe next time when its cooler and I'm in a better state. 

andy popp

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T - Work announces 120 people will be getting the sack in my school (15% of all academic staff). Not sure if I am affected or not. Announcement of redundancies, appeals hearings and final decisions will all theoretically take place whilst I’m away in Yosemite. Not ideal.

WTF!!!!! That's horrific!
« Last Edit: May 19, 2014, 04:34:45 pm by habrich, Reason: quote syntax »

french erick

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I commute on the bike 6 miles a day every day, all year. Do try to stretch most mornings, so won't mention that.

STG: complete 5 weeks endurance phase well, currently week 3- endurance has always been an issue with me.
MTG: tick 3 particular routes on upper cave crag at Dunkeld, 1 at Ardmair and start project boulder in Torridon.
LTG: that's E4/ VIII,8? Cool I'll onsight it then.
VLTG: Romantic Warrior, needles, CA

Monday rest from climbing.
Tuesday endurance (I think I managed to find how to use my wall for true endurance, not power endurance 1h
Wednesday fun muck about on 45d. 45 minutes Couldn't face endurance again.
thursday worked late so nowt
Friday endurance 1.15. Intense. Felt wrecked.
Saturday poor bouldering session stopped after a big half hour, did not feel right.
Sunday local crag day sacked due to weather. 1:30 endurance on a 23 move circuit that I'm trying to lap. Fun and takes all angles including roof.

Only 2 weeks to end of endurance phase. Would be nice to climb on something else than my wall and with others but :boohoo:

Duncan: and I :boohoo:. Don't even know I'm born by the looks of it. Best of luck.

csl

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May Goals

Onsight Fiesta de los Biceps - done
20 7's in Spain - 12/20 so far

Mon
Tue - biscuit - bouldering + circuit board
Wed
Thu - westway - routes on steep wall up to 7b
Fri
Sat - fly to spain. 6c and 6b on arrival in the paradise that is Rodellar.
Sun - Camino - 6b+ warm up. 7a+ and 7a flashes. 7a+ onsight fail. Ventanas - bis a bis 7a 2nd go.

Mon - egocentrismo. 7a flash to warm up. Failed to onsight paqueno pablo 7a+ and another 7a+. Then Aquest any si - tried to onsight Spasida IVA L1 7a - failed and failed to Rp - felt battered!
Tue - rest.
Wed - riglos - Fiesta de los Biceps onsight. So much fun. Went to another crag at Aguerp in the afternoon but was too tired to bother climbing.
Thu - warmed up on some 6b+'s on the left of Pince sans Rire. RP'd the 7a at Aquest from monday putting clips in. Tried to onsight far faders west 7a+/b. fluffed it, did it second go. Then tried to onsight a super steep 7a+ at Ventanas, but failed.
Fri - rest.
Sat - Camino - 6b thing then Rp'd Orgasmica 7a+ putting clips in. Onsighted Tragaldabas 7a+ at Aquest. Went to boveda - struggled on Tufa's on Comandos cono, 7b+ and L'any que vu tambe, 7c. Went to Pince, tried to Onsight, Maria de pont des arnes, 7b+, fluffed a sequence in the middle then went bolt to bolt to the top.
Sun - cave of chossy poo - onsighted the 7a+. Then fell off the onsight at the chains of the amazing 7b, Libera tu Mente. Did it second go. Went to pince in the afternoon and after putting the clips up, did the 7b+ from yesterday pretty easily. Such a good route.

Have 5 more climbing days left, so would like to get a bit more mileage and try and flash a 7b+. Rodellar is so much fun!

shark

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11.2-4

M. Foundry with Poppy. Bouldered on Wave on L2's and shut down on Green and Black spots
T.
W. Foundry on own. Bouldered on Wave on L2's and shut down on  Green and Black spots
T.  Foundry with Tom. Bouldered on Wave on L2's and shut down on Green and Black spots
F.
S. AM Foundry with Poppy. Progress on Green and Black spots. Eve. Went to the Grit Jam. Good crowd/vibe. Watched Shauna get gold then watched Guys excellent new grit film Gritual Drank excessively, talked gibberish and even danced. Sonia came and dragged me away at 2amish. Old fool.
S. Hungover all day. Went out to Stanage in evening with Dave Thomas and Tom. Greasy. Tom led Via Media and Rusty Crack and I showed him how to set up belays. Belay device gave him a nasty pinch on the thigh when I weighted the rope though. Didn't seem to put him off too much. Nice evening. Soloed Inverted V and had a slightly alarming foot slip. Weighted deadhangs and pullups before bed.

Thursday at Malham was knocked on head due to warmth. Keen to ease back into training to complement bouldering with a focus on crimping. Cooler temps on way so organised to go to Malham on Friday.

Tommy on Rusty Crack


cheque

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STG: normal middle fingers
2014 goals: 20 17 E-points, 10 sport7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- pull-ups, antagonist weights.

T- Pull-ups, Push-ups.

W- Pull-ups, weights.

T- Swimming. One hour of breaststroke.

F- Rest

S- Black Rocks. Wasn't sure about fingers but decided this would be a good venue as it has no flat edges and I could intersperse climbing with the first filming for the Black Rocks film I want to make. Stupidly hot and I stupidly "warmed up" on the sunny side at midday. Climbed very timidly- more wooden spoon than gold medal. Watched the footage I shot and lost all psyche for making my film.

S- Rest. Fingers feeling good!  :dance1: Watched Gritual in the evening and regained all psyche to make my film. Did a front lever straight after and held it for more than a second for the first time ever.

An odd week- as before, injuring my finger has driven me to overcompensate on the non-climbing-specific training, which sadly isn't much use when you can't make yourself do a mildly dangerous 5a move.  ::) If anyone wants to be in a film about Black Rocks (or has advice of any kind about making climbing films), PM me.  ;D

EdGowSmith

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Missed last week...

7A:    16/50
7A+:  7/40
7B:    3/30
7B+:  1/20
7C:    1/10

Stretches: 3/8 :( Didn't really see much point in stretching the first week when Ten Tors makes me horribly stiff anyway.

Mon: Nothing.
Tues: Session at the Bunker, destroying myself with a variety of things.
Wed: Anstey's with Adam. Trying a 7C+ with duff beta. Could do the moves but definitely not link it that way.
Thurs: Possibly something.
Fri: Ten Tors.
Sat: Ten Tors.
Sun: Ten Tors. 55 miles, hardest thing I've ever done. Was in so much pain. Never walking again.
Mon: Lay in bed all day.
Tues:  Try to climb at the Bunker, but feel shit, unsurprisingly...
Wed: Session at the Bunker, general training, still not 100%.
Thurs: Fingerboarding, pull-ups, stretches.
Fri: Anstey's with Ellis. Did a 14 move 7C+ from 4 moves in, so psyched!  :dance1: Now to build up some power endurance and add in the first easy moves. Stretches.
Sat: Nothing whatsoever.
Sun: Good session at the Bunker, did a comp-style circuit of 4 mins per problem and surprised myself by getting some hard things pretty quickly.  Also pull-ups, fingerboarding, power endurance and core which made me feel pretty ill... Stretches.
 
Need to climb outside more!
Got half term coming up so hopefully will get out somewere, but exams are starting now and won't have lots of time.

JackAus

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So I missed a couple weeks.

28th-4th
M: Lot 33/34. V0, V1, V3, 2x V4, V5, one move off a V6, worked a V7.
T: Indoors. First time in a while. Did 2 V7, 3 V6 and nearly did a V8. Grading is soft as shit there.
W: Lot 33. Worked a V7. Still just 1 move off it.

5th-11th
No climbing...

12th-18th
T: Put up 2 probs. V3 and V4. V4 is wicked moves out of a roof. One of my favourite problems of all time.
W: Indoors again. Did a bunch of V4s then just made my own stuff. Prob a couple of V6s. I really don't like this wall and its over an hour's drive away... I don't know why I bother going.

Still on the bike all the time lately! Just not getting out on rock....

Schnell

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STG: fix fingers, i've graduated to moderate bouldering and fairly gentle fingerboarding, although I slightly tweaked the finger yesterday which is frustrating. hard to tell what holds or grip type will do it.
MTG: 7B some time this summer once STG is achieved.
LTG: decide on major life choices once masters is finished in august, arrange positive climbing to work balance.

M: cycling/stretching/studying
T: easy bouldering session, dips and muscle-ups in rings. first easy f-board session starting repeaters on the BM small edges with chisel/drag grip.
W: cycling/stretching/studying
T: fairly easy bouldering, some rings stuff and more moderate f-boarding.
F: finish exams,  :2thumbsup: big enduro session on the board and doing 4x4s. probably overdid it a bit in retrospect as I was still feeling it over the weekend.
S: work
S: tried to get in first outdoor bouldering session in a while but got rained off and I was shattered after exams, post-exam celebrations and Friday's session.

good week in which I felt like the finger is making progress, until yesterday's frustrating tweak :furious: but I'll go back to the jugs for enduro training which will hopefully help the route climbing in Fair Head in two weeks.

Ti_pin_man

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what a close week.  stg - F7a.

M - core101 / 2 hours climbing including 4x4's
T - rest
W - 4x4s on home wall
T - core101 / 22 climbs on home wall
F - rest
S - Climbed 3 hours and did two half of a F7a - I just couldnt complete the link move BUT this is closest I've been. 
S - tired, did some faffing footworks and easy drills

Very excited to almost get the goal, returned sunday and tried again but its a power problem and was tired.  I'll be back.  I have 3 more weeks of power sets and I'll be back. 



Sasquatch

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STG - local 8a route, rehab finger and Tahoe trip,
MTG - Local 8B boulder, 5 local FA's 7C+ and harder, add 2 bolts to create new hard route. (put off till next year)
LTG - Mandala in November

M-FB-one arm work, Moonboard-some warmups, 2-7B's, 2-7C+'s, and worked moves on another 7C+, and an 8A. run 6mi 
T-Run 10mi
W-Mtn Bike 75min
Th-FB-one arm work, Moonboard-some warmups, 2-7B's, worked moves on two 7C+'s, Did all the moves on 8A-super close to doing.
F-Nothing
S-Mtn Bike 2hrs
S- Moonboard-some warmups, 2-7B's, worked moves on 4-7C+'s,  Can do all the moves, but had a very hard time connecting anything. Even easier problems I had a tough time linking.

Good and bad week.  Supposed to be running to train for a 24mi mountain race.  Ran 2 times for a total of 16miles, which is not good enough.  I feel a little lost in my training and motivation.  Need to get mojo back.  Heading to STG #1 on Wednesday, and should be able to do it.  STG # 2 is coming along well.  Still not crimping yet.  Will start working into crimping when I get back from STG#3. 

duncan

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Nonsense: sounds ideal. It's beyond time you left London and having no opportunity to appeal a redundancy will obviate any potential spousal pressure to stay.
 :great:

 :unsure:

Is this the wry smile yellow thingie?

You are absolutely right about London and getting sacked definitely might have benefits. However I enjoy most of my job and, other than in climbing, I'm risk-adverse. I have no desire to open a Casa in Catalunya/Cafe in Wharfdale/Climbing shop in Archway. I don't do genius business ideas (see 5.10 history) and don't really want to become a full-time clinician again. Jobs in my line advertised in Sheffield/Manchester/Bristol/Plymouth in the last three years = 0.

Which probably leaves working in some dodgy oil-rich dictatorship for 4-5 years. :-\

Muenchener

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Sun: Ten Tors. 55 miles, hardest thing I've ever done. Was in so much pain. Never walking again.

Respect.

I think my furthest ever walked in a day was Marsden to Edale at about 40 miles. Although for legs barely working the next day the Cuillin Ridge was harder.

webbo

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Mon. Turbo 1hour.
Tue. Board worked and completed an old problem using screw ons for feet. Repeated a few things.
Wed. Bike 30 miles including 20 secs on 40 secs off x 5 3 sets.
Thu. Sprotborough didn't have a guide so just tried and things,shoulders and fingers felt like they had a work out.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Bike 72 miles at 18mph.
Sun. Board mirror session. Bike 45 miles

Luke Owens

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Been mega busy decorating our new house every day after work...

Monday: Work Gym Session:
10 Wide Grip Pull-Ups

Deadhangs:
3 x 10 secs - 30mm edge

First Joint Edge:
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
10kg - 7secs, 7secs, 10secs

Tuesday: Decorating

Wednesday: Decorating

Thursday: Rhiw Goch
Did "Ride the Wild Smurf" (6C+) in a few goes.
Spent the rest of the session falling off latching the top of White Rider...

Friday: Decorating

Saturday: Decorating

Sunday: Late evening session at Hope Mountain
Repeated some easier stuff and then did some 6B I haven't done before.

Worked the moves on the slopey 6C+ traverse and came very close on the Roof LH (6C++!)

kelvin

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Been mega busy decorating our new house every day after work...




Tuesday: Decorating

Wednesday: Decorating



Friday: Decorating

Saturday: Decorating



This heartens me a lot. When you first started posting Luke, it was train, train, train, it was impressive, if a little worrying that there was no time for rest and recovery. Decorating is my job and I can be incredibly hard on myself at not doing any training even when I've done a 12/14hr day. Work's been crazy of late and whilst I know I need to train for my trip, I've been having to balance thin skin from sanding and knackered arms and shoulders from rolling ceiling all day.

Hope you get done soon tho and head back out crushing  :)

fried

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AFAIC decorating for 10h is training :whip:

 

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