[Sasquatch]

I was just curious as to uncut footage.  Not questioning any sending.  Oh well.... 

On the other hand Megos was knee scumming in the "one week with Alex Megos vid" when he tried it, but padless.

Granted he wasn't part of the "reclimbing the classics" episodes, so:

It's fair enough to call foul on this in the context of films 'supposedly' paying homage to classic test-pieces. If Anna Stohr had found a minging crimp to tek her way around the dyno on Rose et le Vampire, and found a way of missing out the rose move we'd all think it was a load of shit. Same here with Hubble.

doesn't apply? 

[Nibile]

Send and kneepads apart, I found it a generally bad video badly realized and presumptuously conceived.
During the interview it seemeed to me that neither Ben nor Sean had really anything to say each other apart from usual, trivial stuff.
I don't like to hear pro climbers complain about poor conditions or bad gear or little time. I think that Hubble had been an extremely proud choice, so the least they could do was to do everything to make a good video. I mean, five ascents. Five. Moon was Moon. Malc had to build a replica, Gaskins, idem. And these guys think that just because he wins WC events, McColl can have a chance? Really? Who cares about an edited video about someone having good goes (if they were good goes and not single/couple moves), when it's for a world wide production from a world wide sponsor?
I believe in the P Rule: perfect planning prevents piss poor performance.

[masonwoods101]

Proper preparation prevents piss poor performance?

[Nibile]

Why not!

[tomtom]

Puny pecs provide peeling pinches?

[Sasquatch]

Send and kneepads apart, I found it a generally bad video badly realized and presumptuously conceived.
During the interview it seemeed to me that neither Ben nor Sean had really anything to say each other apart from usual, trivial stuff.
I don't like to hear pro climbers complain about poor conditions or bad gear or little time. I think that Hubble had been an extremely proud choice, so the least they could do was to do everything to make a good video. I mean, five ascents. Five. Moon was Moon. Malc had to build a replica, Gaskins, idem. And these guys think that just because he wins WC events, McColl can have a chance? Really? Who cares about an edited video about someone having good goes (if they were good goes and not single/couple moves), when it's for a world wide production from a world wide sponsor?
I believe in the P Rule: perfect planning prevents piss poor performance.

Of the 6, this seemed to be the worst of the bunch, which is a bit unfortunate as this is probably one of the least appreciated/known routes as well.  It would have ben great to get a bit more context about how hard this was and the fact it was done a year before AD!! Or at least get someone on it who appreciates the historic significance to really wants to do it, rather than someone who has a few days between WC events to try it...

That was what I loved about the Mcclure video.  He obviously has deep emotions about the route and can hardly express them in a manner that makes complete sense.  That's real emotion for most people.

[a dense loner]

I don't really agree with most of the posters who've lambasted Sean over this. We want to fly you over to England and try Hubble. Cool far out when do I get to fire the rig? Why does he need a deep desire to climb it? He's being paid to try it, of course he wants to put in a good show cos he's a professional athlete. His job is going round the world trying hard routes on plastic and rock, and a few boulder probs. Everybody and their dog has an excuse for not doing something, why would he be any different? As for him and Ben not having much to say to each other, what? It's not a chatshow!
I too thought it was the worst one they did, but I thought the others were very good this was only decent.

[tomtom]

I don't think anyone has lambasted Sean over this Dense, All of peoples ire has been at the write up of the film (getting their facts wrong) and of the film itself. I've nothing but respect for the man... being jetted in to perform in front of the camera on a route only climbed by 5 people is a tough gig.

[Danny]

As someone who has never climbed any peak sport routes this does seem like a storm in a teacup. Maybe I'd feel differently if I had, but I haven't, so I tend to agree with dense...and grimer, you should all cheer up a bit.

Perhaps some kneebar aficionado like barrows should go and pose mid crux on hubble in a clown suit. Knee in, hands off, thumbs up. I'd pay money to see that.

[a dense loner]

Barrows. On. Hubble.

That will keep me going for a long time.

[abarro81]

I'm pretty sure I'd have more chance on plenty of 9bs than on Hubble.

[Doylo]

 

I'm pretty sure I'd have more chance on plenty of 9bs than on Hubble.

Didn't Steve Dunning do the start and undercut match a lanky way? Use the length then throw a kneebar in for the last moves and hey presto!

[Moo]

Has Dunning ever really been to the Tor ?

[rodma]

Has Dunning ever really been to the Tor ?

I'm pretty sure i remember reading somewhere that he cycled up down there at 4 in the morning before flashing the joker staminaband, then doing the ace hubble first go

[Bonjoy]

I don't really agree with most of the posters who've lambasted Sean over this. We want to fly you over to England and try Hubble. Cool far out when do I get to fire the rig? Why does he need a deep desire to climb it? He's being paid to try it, of course he wants to put in a good show cos he's a professional athlete. His job is going round the world trying hard routes on plastic and rock, and a few boulder probs. Everybody and their dog has an excuse for not doing something, why would he be any different? As for him and Ben not having much to say to each other, what? It's not a chatshow!
I too thought it was the worst one they did, but I thought the others were very good this was only decent.

Yeah people, stop hatin’ on the geez! It’s hard work being a paid climber for a living. Don’t you know he’s got better things to think about whilst he’s sat at the airport than the point of the series and certainly no time for boring background reading. As for the film editing, it’s about lifestyle and logos, get with the program you idiots – the series concept is just hype to get you to look at some logos. You tell ‘em Lee, these fools must think we’re living in the 1990s or something.

[a dense loner]

Are you seriously suggesting to me that he should sit at an airport and read up on the history of a route? He prob knows the history but I don't see what you're getting at? If there's a knee bar there he's gonna try and use it. I'm surprised at you since you're one of the peeps that talks about using anything and everything and it's not your fault if climbers of yesteryear had no technique. It's a route not an eliminate boulder prob 

[Danny]

I'm pretty sure I'd have more chance on plenty of 9bs than on Hubble.

Actually climbing Hubble, whilst undoubtedly harder, would be a lesser achievement than getting the aforementioned staged kneebar shot. I pledge ten pounds, and I'm on a research stipend so that's serious moolah.

[Moo]

I'll match danny's ten pounds but only if his very reasonable conditions are met

[cowboyhat]

I'm pretty sure I'd have more chance on plenty of 9bs than on Hubble.

Didn't Steve Dunning do the start and undercut match a lanky way? Use the length then throw a kneebar in for the last moves and hey presto!

Yes, maybe barrows would stand a chance after all though I can't find their respective http://www.celebheights.com

I vaguely recall a conversation I had with Steve Dunning about it at the Tor several years ago; the jist was he could keep his feet on the lower step and admitted that it wasn't as hard for him as for the others who'd done it.

It would have been better if MColl had done no research whatsoever or perhaps if it was someone more garrulous like Dave Graham to open Ben up:

Tell me about the other routes you had done at the time, how did you come to try hubble, was it already a project?
Did you know straight away it was harder than anything else you'd done?
Did it feel like a big leap grading it 8c+, did you expect a reaction?
Has the growth of Hubbles reputation surprised you?
Are you proud that its the thing you are known for in climbing?

These shit questions are just off the top of my head, he could have asked him anything to make it more interesting! This is why I think it is a shit film, it brings nothing whatsoever to the table. No insight.

P.S. Advertising works. Apart from the fact that we're all talking about this; I bought several Mammut Galaxys in a row. To me they are synonymous with Hubble. As mentioned by Steve Mclure in Bens film, it was the most talked about thing in climbing. I was around twelve or so in 1990 when I first walked into a climbing shop or flicked through OTE. Posters and adverts were everywhere.

[chris j]

Are you seriously suggesting to me that he should sit at an airport and read up on the history of a route?

If he's being paid to go make a video about climbing a route and going to talk about it on camera with the FA then who knows, it might be helpful, possibly even be considered professional. Just saying, like...

[Bonjoy]

Are you seriously suggesting to me that he should sit at an airport and read up on the history of a route? He prob knows the history but I don't see what you're getting at? If there's a knee bar there he's gonna try and use it. I'm surprised at you since you're one of the peeps that talks about using anything and everything and it's not your fault if climbers of yesteryear had no technique. It's a route not an eliminate boulder prob 

Do more than the bare minimum at work, doesn't seem that crazy an idea. Nothing I've said here contradicts what I said on the other thread. It just strikes me that using a pad but claiming it doesn't help is having your cake and eating it. I don't object to the pad.

[a dense loner]

He's just talking shit that's what people do. Just another excuse, which is fine. Too wet, pass didn't fit, etc people are only getting up in arms cos it's Hubble.
You must have forgot to post my next sentence Chris. Just saying, like...

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, I know but we let everyone else off because they're not getting paid for it.

[petejh]

I think you're being contrarian for the sake of it here Dense. I don't think anybody is 'up in arms' - to express that you think something is a bit lame isn't being up in arms - and it isn't being grumpy Grimer (edit, not 'upset'). It's just expressing that something could be done better. I think speed cameras on long stretches of open road are a bit lame, I'm not emotionally upset by them. And I think lots of people think it's a tiny bit lame that what might have been a great short film about one of the great test-pieces in climbing was let down in conception (choice of climber, time allowed) and execution (poor interview, misleading publicity). Still, I'm glad they made the effort hey.

[a dense loner]

Just what the fuck are you talking about? Poor choice of climber etc. What?