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Mammut Reclimbing the Classics (Read 84528 times)

SA Chris

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#125 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 02:02:53 pm
Maybe the lad hasn't got a scoob how to place gear? Bit of an odd choice in amongst the other sport climbs? I wonder if they were each given a choice of route?

Jaspersharpe

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#126 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 03:15:47 pm
And McColl picked Hubble?!

JohnM

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#127 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 03:24:09 pm
Looks good that granite climb.  I wish my name was Yaniro.

lagerstarfish

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#128 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 03:41:23 pm
no

for making Peak Lime look good in video

Peak lime looks brilliant on video, I won't hear anything otherwise, scumbag. Do you want to try some of my home brew?

you've been on Hayden's crack pipe haven't you

SA Chris

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#129 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 04:40:20 pm
And McColl picked Hubble?!

Maybe he was up for a real challenge?

Nibile

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#130 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 05:26:43 pm
HYBRIS!!!!
The Gods were pissed with Sean!!!

Doylo

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#131 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 05:35:09 pm
Ironic the worlds first F8 was a trad route.

krymson

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#132 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 06:02:38 pm
I was gonna get on my high horse about the "bad style" of this ascent but apparently the first ascent was on pre-placed as well.

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#133 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 06:39:48 pm
Not having a copy of Jerrys book to hand here at work other than in a glass case 'In event of emergency'

didn't Jerry go to the states in about 84 and onsight Grand Illusion? Was the gear pre-placed then?

It being a trad crack i'd thought it he'd done a trad style onsight placing gear on lead.

Not passing judgment etc but I just hadn't realised this was how things were done then. As Yaniro mentions it was an interesting time, a lot of changing style and ethics.

Really good little film that, these conversations with the protagonists are the most interesting part.

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#134 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 06:41:01 pm
Absolutely love that one. Yaniro is a true legend.

Jaspersharpe

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#135 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 06:44:56 pm
Remember this?


Doylo

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#136 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 06:48:18 pm
Not having a copy of Jerrys book to hand here at work other than in a glass case 'In event of emergency'

didn't Jerry go to the states in about 84 and onsight Grand Illusion? Was the gear pre-placed then?

It being a trad crack i'd thought it he'd done a trad style onsight placing gear on lead.

Not passing judgment etc but I just hadn't realised this was how things were done then. As Yaniro mentions it was an interesting time, a lot of changing style and ethics.

Really good little film that, these conversations with the protagonists are the most interesting part.

I don't think Jerry did Grand Illusion . His impressive US flashes were Equinox, Supercrack, Psycho Roof, Genesis and later the Phoenix.

Doylo

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#137 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 06:49:46 pm
I remember Yaniro from Masters of Stone when I was a youth. He was smoooooooooth.

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#138 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 06:50:42 pm
Surely a good candidate for retrobolting...  :blink:

mrjonathanr

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#139 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 08:49:26 pm


I don't think Jerry did Grand Illusion . His impressive US flashes were Equinox, Supercrack, Psycho Roof, Genesis and later the Phoenix.

I've never been to the States but if I recall he did flash the 7c/+s mentioned above. Not as far as I know Grand Illusion, it's 8a+ though isn't it?

Johnny Brown

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#140 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 08:55:59 pm
Not all good news though - if it wasn't for this photo Dense wouldn't even be on here.




Doylo

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#141 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 24, 2014, 09:12:02 pm


I don't think Jerry did Grand Illusion . His impressive US flashes were Equinox, Supercrack, Psycho Roof, Genesis and later the Phoenix.

I've never been to the States but if I recall he did flash the 7c/+s mentioned above. Not as far as I know Grand Illusion, it's 8a+ though isn't it?

yes

a dense loner

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#142 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 25, 2014, 05:59:11 am
Haha not that photo, I've not seen that before. Monster!

It was the one of him on equinox, tho it may have been grand illusion since someone threw a spanner in the works above.

SA Chris

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#143 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 25, 2014, 08:36:58 am
Not all good news though - if it wasn't for this photo Dense wouldn't even be on here.


Great pic. I love the fact that it predates online communications and just has a 1.800 number. Wad for sure.

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#144 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
July 27, 2014, 03:27:08 pm
I might be the only holdout on McColl/Hubble but his latest post pretty much confirms a non-send.

On a related note ...
"Before I left, I received my knee-pad which I’ve been pretty excited to try out. It’s too bad I didn’t have it while trying Hubble 8c+ up in the UK but at least if I go back I’ll have something for that task." 

:o

Nibile

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#145 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 04:39:59 pm
There you go: all the tricks, the world cup victories, the super modern training, can't get you up Hubble.
http://www.youtube.com/v/5Nbzj3TxDKE

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#146 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 04:44:21 pm
There you go: all the tricks, the world cup victories, the super modern training, can't get you up Hubble.
http://www.youtube.com/v/5Nbzj3TxDKE

Is it me - or does Ben sound pissed off/can't be arsed talking about it with him? Short answers, eyes looking everywhere else, twiddling the phone... etc...

:)

Stubbs

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#147 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 04:47:46 pm
Think McColl made a good go of it considering it was wet and he only had a few days to try it. Certainly didn't look too far off, but hard to tell with the editing.

Nibile

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#148 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 04:50:10 pm
Yes of course he did a good job! I was only being a bit nasty.
Anyway I got the same impression as Tomtom!

shark

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#149 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 05:17:17 pm
I might be the only holdout on McColl/Hubble but his latest post pretty much confirms a non-send.

On a related note ...
"Before I left, I received my knee-pad which I’ve been pretty excited to try out. It’s too bad I didn’t have it while trying Hubble 8c+ up in the UK but at least if I go back I’ll have something for that task." 

:o

So it wasn't that he didn't have a kneepad when he tried it - just the wrong make of kneepad

 

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