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UKB Power Club Week 221 5th May - 11th May (Read 5947 times)

fried

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Mon - Tues - Nothing
Wed - Lacklustre indoor session, it's hot, slippery and due to an up and coming competition nothing is being reset. I was tired before I arrived and put in a short session before laying around on a mat.
Thur - Bad weather rules out planned weekend Font camp. Nothing

Fri - Best weather of the weekend, but due to lots of overnight rain go to 95.2 where everything is strangely dry. Warm up on some oranges, elbow a bit tweaky but go slowly and it's O.K. Take 5 goes to repeat a problem I'd flashed years ago before spotting the massive foothold in front of me. Fail on some blues I've failed on many times before and then manage a couple of reds. Strange day. My feet are aching in whites, so I have a break and wander down to rocher des potets and do 10 or so orange problems. Happier on burlier stuff with holds at the moment;, probably due to still not really wanting to slip at the moment.

Sat - cook all day
Sun - On strike, watch Bouldering World cup all day on the sofa. It's raining I feel no guilt.

Muenchener

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STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

In which I go the the Frankenjura and add to my extensive collection of ongoing VIII- projects instead of reducing it as I was rather hoping.

M:   
T: Bike to & from work 25km
W:
T: Bike to & from work 30km (longer way round)
F:
S: Frankenjura. Iffy weather weekend. Bolt-to-bolted a 6c+ that is actually a proper route not a three bolt boulder problem, so something of a step forward. A rather nice proper route too. Did all the moves except the last, which after the heavens opened was a mantel over a roof into a muddy puddle.
   Had the great pleasure of climbing in a group with Martin Grulich, first ascentionist BITD of numerous Frankenjura mid-grade ultra classics and a thoroughly nice bloke.
S: Frankenjura. Forecast was for "showers" so went to the Soranger Wand because the book says it's steep and south facing. Turns out it's also on top of a hill, windy and bloody freezing. Bolt-to-bolted yet another 6c+ just before the second apocalyptic hailstorm of the day, after which we bailed to Cafe Kraft for the afternoon. In Nürnberg it was sunny and twenty degrees.

kelvin

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Cheers fried - love Sunday's report.

A tale of thin skin this week. Training for a stag weekend  before climbing wasn't the best idea.

Mon - A bright start to the week with a 4.5hr session in the boulder room at Pinnacle. Of the 19 V0s in the new set, I flashed 18 but the last one... could not get up it. Too weak in the core and not strong enough at locking off  :wavecry: I must have had twenty goes. Flashed some V1/2/3s. Worked some V4s and generally had a really good session, only resting after a couple of hours. In the evening, it was weighted squats and yoga.

Tue - 12hrs of sanding at work left the tips raw. Tried a few hangs but it was painful.

Wed - Top roping, which was a warm up for leading but my skin was unhappy and thus I jacked after 4 routes. A 5, the sandbag 5 (6a+), a 6b that battered my head just a few weeks back was cruised up and then got on a 6c - this will go I reckon. Will get on lead this week and get the 6b and try like hell to get the 6c.

Thu - Rained off at work, so ended up sleeping about 16hrs. Work has been a bit intense lately and I think the body just needed to recover.

Fri - Skin still thin, so went for a couple of beers and that turned into ten. Well, 8 in actuality but when you haven't drank much all year - I was staggering and ever so slightly trashed. Burger and chips on the way home. Top training for next months stag weekend, been asked to be best man for the fifth time. Rubbish climber but a good mate obviously.

Sat - The Climbing Station. I'd been excited about this, not the norm for me about indoors but after the beer sweats kicked in, I knew it was gonna be tough. Flashed a lot of stuff up to V2, flashed some V3s and maybe a V4? Dunno, it was hard and sketchy for me. Climbed rubbish to be honest. Jordon, who I'd been out with the evening before was found laying on the mats every time I turned the corner - he quite daftly had mixed wine with beer. Teenagers mistake. Some friends turn up and that gave us the impetus to keep going after cake and coffee. 4.5hrs in the end. At teatime, headed to the Pinnacle and did some hangs and a short easy boulder. Two sessions in a day... I'll start improving soon. Maybe. Probably not.

Sun - First proper attempt at a run since Sept in Font. Two and half miles before the knee blew up but boy did it feel good till then. I miss running. Hard to imaging now that it's less than two years since I ran 69 miles in a day. Ah well. Then popped into Pinnacle to do some finger stuff and socialise. Squats to be done after this is posted.

If I hadn't have gotten mullered on Friday, I think I'd have had a good session in Loughborough. I'm claiming it as a good week I think, especially as I managed a short run. Slow at 9 minute miles but it's a start and one that I was thinking may never happen again.

french erick

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I commute on the bike 6 miles a day every day, all year. Do try to stretch most mornings, so won't mention that.

STG: complete 5 weeks endurance phase well, currently week 2- endurance has always been an issue with me.
MTG: tick 3 particular routes on upper cave crag at Dunkeld, 1 at Armair and start project boulder in Torridon.
LTG: that's E4/ VIII,8? Cool I'll onsight it then.
VLTG: Romantic Warrior, needles, CA

Monday: Climbed at my local sport crag at Moy. Not ideal amount of time so only did 6 pitches (on 6C+ x2 due to falling off 1st go).

Tuesday: 1st systematic fingerboard session. Not happy with it, left me with a slight niggle at 40min (stopped it all and warm down on my easier wall).

Wednesday:rest

Thursday: 1 hour session on crack skills, taped up and all. Left me utterly mangled.

Friday: big interval endurance session interrupted by friend's phonecall (from France) at 1:30. Seeing some gains on my circuits.

Saturday: nowt visiting friends in Caithness... ate too much

Sunday: after drive back. Wee 45d system board sesh. Trying to eat something before bed (boiled egg and bread soldiers) as I never do and read is bad.

Dolly

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M Quick dash to Anston. Did Beretta and thoroughly enjoyed it
T work all day including corporate dining until late. Felt fat afterwards
W Gym for core and aero. More corporate drinking
T Shed, glorious shed
F
S Filled a skip and was battered afterwards. Managed a quick trip to thegym to do some core and run a bit as it was pissing it down outside
S Weather against me so ended up shedding it again

shark

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11.0-2   :w00t:

M. In bed recovering from flu till mid afternoon
T. Still feeling fragile
W. Lunch Foundry. Bouldered quite well on the Wave. Did some crimpy hangs and finished off with 5 pullups x 10 on the minute to finish
T.
F. Berated builder and architect then went off to Malham. Rainy/cloudy so able to go early. Cold. Touched horn 3 times I think. Hoped for better given how light I was and decent conditions. Decided to call it on the Oak till Autumn. Eve Malc and crew arrived.
S. Went to New Schoolroom to do interview with Malc and get some wordage from Ben. Its an amazing facility. Headed out to Tor. Unexpectedly mint conditions though a bit squally at times. Was expecting to rest but inspired to put boots on and got close on Rattle and Hump using some beta from Chris Barr but was scared of jumping for final jug. Also had a play on Weedkiller. Great to watch Malc. Back for curry and beers. Draining but memorable day.
S. Steve Mac came over some wordage then team Scotland drove off in the direction of the Bowderstone. Tempted by going to Anston stones with Dolly but weather highly iffy and felt tired and slightly hungover so read papers and had a nap then played monopoly with the kids.

Despite deciding not to go back to Malham committed with Steve to going back on Thursday to make up a 4. If Oak wet will jump back on Predator.

Here's some footage of Malc cruising Powerband which I took on my iphone:


« Last Edit: May 12, 2014, 08:50:57 am by shark »

T_B

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85.8Kg!

M – The Pass. Windy but not cold. Did some stuff on roadside boulders including a 7B, then had a short and hurried sess trying to do the crux of Mr Fantastic and Bus Stop. Failed on both. Had a retro flash go on Jerry’s and fell trying to hold the swing on the crux.
T  -
W – Parisella’s. Warmed up including doing Clever Beaver 1st proper go, then got stuck into Lou. Felt desperate but gradually sorted all moves and best go got the first drilled pocket. Finished off doing Beaver Cleaver after a million goes. Knackered.
T –
F – Back to The Cave on way home. Even better cons than Wednesday. 1 hour and ¾ to do Lou. No pressure. Best go foot slipped off massive foothold going from drilled pocket and intermediate to 2nd drilled pocket. Basically ended up being able to cruise to the shelf/finger slopers but ran out of strength to lock up to the drilled pocket. Fail.
S –
S – Works. ‘Warmed up’ doing 16 yellows in mini works, then 5 mins on Motherboard to confirm still knackered from Friday. Failed on lots of Comp wall problems and went home early : (

Had an incredibly relaxing holiday in Wales, but ate/drank absolutely loads and no doubt the climbing suffered. Body feels wrecked and somewhat de-motivated.

Schnell

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STG: Fix fingers. some improvement on this since last week, have moved from very easy bouldering to fairly easy bouldering with no ill effects, still slow and frustrating. other current STG is 20 pull-ups on a bar cos I'm useless at these, doing them doesn't hurt my finger but feels like training
MTG: 7B sometime this summer once STG achieved, wrangle sport trip at end of summer to a beach side destination to keep my girlfriend happy, maybe Sardinia. possibly build board in new house.
LTG: get proper job and many long term climbing goals

M:
T: easy bouldering plus core and lock offs
W:
T: easy bouldering and rings/core training. did some muscle ups with uneven height rings and tricep dips that left me flattened
F: power endurance on juggy roof boulder problems and foot on campus, plus 1st go at STG no 2. got to 12 pull ups on best go.
S
S: easy bouldering plus some open handed repeaters on the fb. The finger felt a little tweaky so i gave up.

Reasonable week dominated by college exams. They'll be over on Friday and I've a trad weekend planned if the weather cooperates. The immediate outlook post exams is obviously good, though I've a feeling the finger injury will suddenly become more frustrating. Better stick to trad for a while. Fair Head in June!

SA Chris

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STG 13st, after 13st 2 weeks ago and some bad eating back up to 13st 3. Arsebiscuits.

M - Bouldering session outdoors. With some beta from andy e doing it did 1 new problem, got nowhere on 1, did a couple of repeats and got shut down on project - horribly greasy.

T half hour cardio / antag exercises at home

W - forarms feeling sore, went round to mates wall and had a lite session.

T - did nowt

F - half hour cardio

S- 20 miles on and off road on MTB. Offroad bit was mostly quagmire so very slow / walking speed, annoyingly.

S - swim with kids, softplay wth kids, half hour cardio in evening.

Sasquatch

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STG - rehab finger and Tahoe trip, local 8a route
MTG - local 8B boulder, add 2 bolts to create new hard route. 
LTG - Mandala in November

M - 4mi trail run, FB, then long moonboard session.  Got stuck into some really hard stuff for the first time since finger injury in March.
T- Lift, Run 4mi
W-Nothing, super low motivation
Th- Moonboard Session.  Got stuck into more hard stuff.  Made good progress on a couple 7C+'s and an 8A.  Did all the moves on three 7C+'s, did all but 1 move on 8A, and came close to that one. 
F- got out and played footy for 90 minutes.  Felt good to kick a ball again.  Joined a team for the summer, so we'll see how it goes.
S- Out to Dewmound.  Warmed up with a couple of laps on a 5.10c. Then hung the draws on a 7c, RP second go, then worked 8a variation (Gypsy Ninja).  Linked in overlapping sections and felt good, but had to go due to time constraints.  looked at possible new route.  Should be 8a crux to 2 new bolt section(prob v7/8ish) to finish on the 8a crux of the route I just worked (Gypsy Ninja).  Hoping it will be around 8bish in total.  Could be really hard though.  My goal is for a training route for To Bolt or not to Be - the new route will be 20 feet of mellow climbing to 60 feet of thin just off vertical climbing on pockets and crimps with no real rest :)
S-Run 5.5mi

It's been really great to feel the fingers and body all pulling together like they should :)  It's the best feeling when everything just flows and works together. 

duncan

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STG - rehab. elbow. Lose 2kg by end May.
MTG - LH&F BHAG in Yosemite this June (E5 OS this summer).
LTG - LH&F stuff in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

73.2kg  :chair:

M - Shoulder stability - Elbow rehab. stuff
T - Shark's cold
W - Shark's cold
T - Shark's cold
F - Drove to Font. Arrived early evening to good weather (and a poor forecast) so grabbed an hour at L'Elephant and managed 10 or so Blues.
S - Rained most of the day. Visited Milly. Cleared up around 7pm. Took a chance on Maunoury at dusk (deserted and spooky) and managed 10 or so Blues in the twilight / by head torch. Good training for big walls.
S - Spectacular intermittent rainstorms. Visited the splendid Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte, masterpiece of the French formal garden style and manifestation of Descartes’ philosophy that man could and should shape nature for his own ends (still evident in French attitudes to chipping, bolting and painting numbers on boulders). Brightened up late afternoon and had a couple of glorious hours doing the Yellow circuit at Sabots and other bits and pieces including Little Crack - featuring the only hand-jam in the entire trip. So much for crack training.  Weather and life’s barnacles dictated a pragmatic approach to venue choice.

Enjoyable visit to Font. despite pretty poor weather and a stinking cold.  I didn't twat my ankle slipping off some damp 3+ slab, elbow tweak improved, family thoroughly enjoyed themselves (offspring loved it: “can we come here everyday?” followed shortly by “can we move here!”). Only down-side is that I appear to have gained 0.5kg. In the run-up to last summer’s Dolomites trip I dropped 2kg fairly easily - and noticed the difference - but this seems more of a challenge this year.

Plan: gradually up mileage as cold / run-down-ness allows.

shark

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T - Shark's cold
W - Shark's cold
T - Shark's cold


 :sorry:

cheque

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STG- Normal middle fingers (in danger of becoming an MTG)
2014 goals- 20 17 E-points, 10 boulder 7s, 10 sport 7s

Did Monday last week as part of the Bank Holiday.

T- Rest.

W- Rest.

T- Notts Wall bouldering. Went to meet a mate I hadn't seen for a while- wasn't psyched for indoor climbing and if I had been it wouldn't have been for this as I find the bouldering here so tweaky, but get stuck in anway as I've just had a great first week back on lime using holds of any type without reservation. Do 24 of the 30 May comp problems, all within 3 goes, which is easily my best performance here ever, but shut down by 25 & 26. PIP joints a bit swollen by the end of the session.

F- Rest. As the swelling subsides it becomes clear that I've hurt both middle fingers- little finger-side of each so collateral ligaments I guess. Left is, as always seems to be the case, worse than right. NNFN. :(

S- Rest, depression.

S- Rest, depression, pullups- shoulder presses.

Fuck's sake.

Sasquatch

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F- got out and played footy for 90 minutes.  Felt good to kick a ball again.  Joined a team for the summer, so we'll see how it goes.
Football ("soccer", "the beautiful game") or Football (the american re-invention of rugby with the big shoulder pads with rules more arcane than cricket)?
The first :)

webbo

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Mon. Bike 70 miles.
Tue. Nothing felt knackered.
Wed. Board struggled abit got a few things done.
Thu. Leeds wall 25 problems up to v5 went a bit fast and ran out of get and go.
Fri. Nothing went to the pub with the missus.
Sat. A bit hungover board not a bad session given how I felt. Mirror session using all screw on forties.
Su. Board 15 problems to warm up then circuit of 6 problems 4 times. Turbo 1 hour.

nik at work

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STG - get a grip
MTG - crush
LTG - 8c+

M - nowt
T - short BM session
W - Outside, spent time trying to ab a line for inspection/cleaning but crazy steepness and not much by way of gear meant I was soon spinning in space. Seconded a mate up a loose E3, it was loose.
T - nowt
F - Outside. Session working a route that I previously climbed over 10 years ago at E7 7a. Subsequently a helpful  extensive flake has fallen off the bottom half changing a bold womble up to the crux into a tricky bit of wall climbing leading to a nails crux without the previous reasonable footholds. Managed all the moves but is pretty sustained, technical and hard. One to work on. Also cleaned up a nice slab line.
S - kids all day and helping Mother-in-Law build a website.
S - Kids all morning, popped out for an hour in the afternoon. Abbed and cleaned another new line and also found an interesting looking hidden wall, further investigations required...

Pretty good week in terms of getting out. Training with any focus has largely gone out of the window TBH but getting some mileage on rock is much more fun.

Luke Owens

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Big week for me last week, Sale completed on my first house purchase! Got the key's on Friday. Busy this week decorating.

With being so busy looking after the little one and house stuff I've been limited to bouldering lately. missing the rope but feeling a lot stronger and really enjoying it

Monday: Hope Mountain with the little one. Did 5 repeats up to 6B+ and had a few goes on the 7A+.

Tuesday: Pantymwyn, Did Faith Healer Variation (7A) after a few goes. I'm crap on pinches and it felt nails for me. Had loads of goes on Gasoline (7A+) good progress on it.

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Rest - Had planned to go to Dinbren but it poured down...

Friday: Pantymwyn, Few goes on Panty's Down, felt strong but then mates went over to some sandbag 7A and I got sucked into trying it, no one could do it...

Saturday: Decorating new house

Sunday: Decorating and then headed to the slate in the afternoon, wet through... so after ~2 hours on faff ended up at the Rhiw Goch boulders. Quality venue, flashed a soft 6C and fell off latching the dyno finish on White Rider (7A+) about 6 times, so damn close but ran out of skin... Heading back next Thursday!

a dense loner

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Duncan a few of us stayed in the village were the chateau is for quite a few weeks, I don't know about manifestations but it is my favourite rest day. Much prefer it to say Versailles

 

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