[Sasquatch]

Wow I get to start it!!

STG - rehab finger and Tahoe trip
MTG - local 8B boulder
LTG - Mandala in November?

M-FB, Moonboard session.  First time I've really pushed the finger and it felt pretty good overall. 
T-Rest
W-run 5.25mi
Th-Climb outside with my Wife - First day outside locally   trad 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10c (no idea how they translate)
F-run 6mi
S-Second day outside - Headed out early and skied in Hatcher Pass. 1hr ski and 1hr hike/posthole to get to boulder, then 45minutes cleaning a stellar new line.  All the moves went, but way too hot though to link it all.  Should be a new 4 star 8A   Skied postholed out, and headed to meet a friend at Dewmound 40min hike/run to crag, and jump straight onto 7c, retro flashed, and worked a bit on 8a variation to it.  40 min hike/run out.  Absolutely destroyed at the end of the day.  5.5 hours of hike/ski/run and 45 minutes of climbing.  I guess that what early season does.....
S-wrecked from Saturday.

Really excited for the season to start.  Snow is melting incredibly fast, so should get a few more days in before I head to California for vacation...

[kelvin]

S-wrecked from Saturday.

Not surprised! 

Mon - New boulder set was half finished. Had maybe my best session at Pinnacle, certainly this year. Flashed a V4, not done a V4 here before. Flashed a couple of soft V3s but after being on slate the week before - every hold seems huge and that boosts the bravery.
Tue - Knackered. No psyche. Didn't do much and headed home.
Wed - Drove to Wales after work.
Thu - A mate needed to top Glyder Fawr to complete the Welsh 3000s, so to make it interesting, I took a rope. It was a lot wet, he couldn't belay, so I whizzed up Ordinary Route and belayed him up. Rubbish weather but pretty memorable for him and we finished up Senior's Ridge to the summit.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Worked late.
Sun - Work. Too lazy/knackered to do anything.

Happy with Monday, there were only a few of us and Alex (setter) trying the new problems. Threw myself at loads of stuff due to not seeing any grades, that resulted in the V4 and almost another V4 that I thought was V2 and bailed before the last move as the knee was sore. It's only indoor problems however, I still get battered by 6A outdoors 

[shark]

11.4-5

M.
T. Got railroaded into going to Malham too early in the day despite the fact that was obviously going to be too hot = hours hanging round in the heat with conditions scarcely improving. Touched the horn once Left the crag demoralised
W.
T.
F. Malham. Later start but no psyche. Better conditions but not perfect. Touched the horn twice I think. Cant really remember, Didn't enjoy myself.
S. AM Foundry Wave. Found the old green and black spot 7A+ was still there. Found I was stronger on it than before though still well off doing it. PM Could feel my glands coming up..
S. Spent all day in bed with a cold or flu

After last Fridays progress on the Oak I expected more of the same. Unfortunately I had two rubbish sessions and I'm no longer psyched for the Oak so I'm going to quit till the Autumn which is frustrating as I was feeling really close.

Only got out of bed at 2pm today so that's 39 hours in bed. On a positive note I only weigh 11stone 2lbs as a consequence.

 

[Muenchener]

After last Fridays progress on the Oak I expected more of the same. Unfortunately I had two rubbish sessions

Incipient flu perhaps/probably, esp. the Friday session

STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   Bike to & from work 25km
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen, bouldering. They took my proj down :-( Did some other stuff.
   Bike to & from work & wall ca 30km
T: Public holiday. Family bike ride incl. first biergarten visit of the year.
   40 minutes knee physio / mobility / yoga
F:
S, S: Frankenjura. Some friends of mine were planning to go to Maltatal, but the weather forecast for the Alps was appalling, so clearly no chance of getting anything worthwhile done there. So headed north instead, even though on Saturday it was far too cold go get anything worthwhile done there too.
   Hardest route I did was a 6b, but quite pleased with it because it was a proper route with proper butch Frankenjura pocket pulling, whereas the harder things I've done in the area have so far all been little bouldery routelets.

[csl]

Aims for April
Endurance sessions twice a week. 1/2
7c on Biscuit Circuit Board. Not done - fairly close, and good training.
Sport climbing once - only very easy stuff, but i'll count it.
E4/5 in Pembroke. - fairly good effort on an E5 - not done.

Mon - Biscuit - Comp wall problems up to V5 - nearly a V6. Foot on Campus. 3 x 1.45 w/ 1:1 rest.
Tue -
Wed - Westway - with novices, so no real climbing for me. Did 4 laps up a 6b+ on comp wall. And a V6 second go.
Thu - Biscuit - Circuit Board 7c, fell at move 18 when foot slipped. Did lots of boulder problems.
Fri -
Sat - Caseg Fraith with beginners - soloed a few easy things up to HS to put up topropes. Top-roped an E4, none of them could lead belay sufficiently well... Went on a long walk up Tryfan etc.
Sun - Slate quarries - Lead a few easy routes to put up top-ropes. Went on another walk, did the two easy problems on the Utopia boulder - really nice.

Didn't manage to have the hard weeks training i had planned. Off to Spain on saturday, so will have a couple of short hard sessions this week. 

Aims for May
Onsight Fiesta de los Biceps
20 7's in Spain

[T_B]

M -
T - Crag X. Fell off move 13 matching on Moffatrocity 6 times
W - 4 x 10 mins high intensity AeroCap
T -
F - 60 mins doing problems on the Wave. Weaker than last time doing problems, in Feb : (
S - Drove to N Wales
S - Beach etc

Not really a tapering wk pre a wk in N Wales. Right elbow a bit hurty and generally feeling a bit weak and getting powered out.

[EdGowSmith]

7A:    16/50
7A+:  7/40
7B:    3/30
7B+:  1/20
7C:    1/10

Stretches: 4/4

Mon: Session at the Bunker, can't remember what I did though.
Tues: Core and press-ups at home.
Wed: Session at the Bunker, Beastmaker and systems board, and got close on a problem I set. Can almost deadhang the crimp rail on the Beastmaker... Stretches.
Thurs: Rest day. Stretches.
Fri: Session at the Bunker, killer core and shoulder session with Dawid. Aching all over. Stretches
Sat: Northcott Mouth. Didn't have that long so didn't do a proper warm-up. Did a 7A and a 7A+ and then got so annoyingly close on a 7B+/C with my foot slipping on the last move!  I will be back... Stretches.
Sun: Bovey Woods - too hot to climb hard really, though should have been able to do the V7 I failed on...

Note to self: don't do an intense training session the day before trying something at your limit!
First week that my elbows have properly ached. Think it's mainly down to trying a very powerful problem without warming up properly / at all.
Things to work on: pull-ups and crimp strength and power endurance.

[Dexter]

stg bigger belly at rubicon
mtg get strong
ltg still unsure maybe hubble still also monk life

M: Nowt
T: Nowt
W: Board session made a new project that feels really hard
T: Nowt, ached from the board
F: Board session tried the new project and made some progress but still feels hard
S: Nowt
S: Went to rubicon, managed to pull off the floor on bigger belly so some progress there and managed to touch the jug from the crimp and gaston and could hold the swing jumping from the crimp so the move missing out the scoop should definitely go

No fingerboarding but progress made so an ok week

[duncan]

STG - rehab. elbow. Lose 2kg by end May.
MTG - LH&F BHAG in Yosemite this June (E5 OS this summer).
LTG - LH&F stuff in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

72.7kg

M - Elbow rehab. stuff
T - Shoulder, elbow rehab. stuff
W - Step-ups 50 mins
T - Shoulder, elbow rehab. stuff
F - Step-ups 20 mins
S - Curbar. Jamming training with the DFB. Various easy trad inc. laps on Dog-Leg Crack. Met up with shark  and put the climbing world to rights. Thanks for the harness    no thanks for the cold! 
S - Froggatt. More jamming training. Various easy trad.  to HVS. Step-ups 50 mins.

Elbow seems to be on the mend finally. The power of Easy Trad.™  This is what I should have been doing 2 weeks ago.

Off to Font. on Friday. Perhaps not the ideal destination for someone with an iffy elbow but treating this as a family holiday with a little light bouldering thrown in so shouldn’t be too hard to take it gently. Post your suggestions for Yosemite training here.

[shark]

no thanks for the cold! 

Did you catch it? If so you should thank me - perfect MTFU training for big walling

[Evil]

M - Cycling commute 16 miles total. Evening about 1.5 hrs on home board, then elbow exercises.
T - Cycling 16 miles. Tube strike, so not much fun  Evening routes at the wall.  - 4+, 5+, 6a+, 6b+ (fail on this 2 moves from the top. Argh), 6c (two goes. First time was horrible, but got it done 2nd go), 6a+ (new). Should have had a rest day on Monday, as was feeling very tired.
W - Cycling 27.6 miles total. Ran 5k lunchtime (28:05). Did not do anything for my tiredness, but at least wasn't using my upper body.
T - Cycle commute in the pissing rain 16 miles. Nothing else, finally.
F - Did some bodyweight stuff, and then 2 hours on home board.
S - Walked 6 miles or so, 1hr yoga class, 2 hrs bouldering on a new set. Spent a while on flashing stuff up to V3, and then didn't get anything harder done.
S - Went to the beach. Ate ice cream and fish and chips. Felt like I needed it. Had a much better day climbing yesterday.

[Ti_pin_man]

M - core101 / Indoor climbing - flashed a cave route for the first time ever, plastic but still a flash on a 20+ long route, also flashed another V4.  And for me thats improvement.  Ha.
T - 20 miles bike commute/eva lopez weights set
W - core101/Neds easy FB set - managing these relatively easily now, maybe time to vary it and make a bit harder
T - Woody 4x4s - first time used home board for training and did 15 move clockwise then anti clockwise circuits
F - rest, bit of a flight
S - Climbed for 2 hours pretty hard
S - Climbed for hour and half, focused on slabs and feetwork routes as tired

Pretty happy to get on the home board, taken me long enough to build.  Anybody got any good training plans for home boards?  I feel I'm just messing about with it at the moment, its 40 degree.  Help or weblinks gratefully recieved!   

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7b


M: Gym, bit of a half-arsed kettlebell session then felt really tired to sacked it off.
T: Gym, general shoulder / chest weights then tried new "15s" thing I dreamt up - 15 x burpees, 15 x situps, 15 x pushups, 15 x 15kg arm curls, then 1.5mins rest. Repeat 3 times.
W: Depot in eve, very sweaty session including doing a few more of the new V5-V7 reds.
T: Nowt.
F: 5-a-side on lunch, good run around and even scored 2 goals!
S: Earl in the afternoon with Dave from here. Had a good session in decent conditions considering general humidity / cloud cover. Didn't tick owt hard but did get John Dunne Slap, err, done.
S: Nowt.
M: Depot in eve, bit of an aimless wander round but got the blood pumping and did another of the new reds.

[SA Chris]

goal 13 st achieved!

After a shitty week and weekend of work it was back on the wagon

M: Sunny and birthday so after midday deadline sacked it off and went climbing

Managed to do a variation on a prob I'd done before using a cheatblock for feet - now eliminated, makes for a nice one mover - 6a/b ish. Then set to work on a roof prob I'd spotted but not cleaned. Managed some good goes on it, and sorted some crucial beta before getting too trashed. reckon 6c maybe even 7a

T - went for a bike ride in evening in fog - did 20k, mostly on rode, went for a bit of an explore but got lost.

W - lunchtime session at wall, good productive 2 hours, got some nice ticks of things I've been working

T - Nowt

F- day off - worked my arse off in garden, shifting some concrete slabs, and moving earth. Bouldered in afternoon - poor session feeling burst after gardening. Depressingly no progress on project from Monday, looks like it will be a siege as it's pretty conditions dependant. Cleaned another project but made little progress.

S - Wedding in Edinburgh, lot of walking, then a few hours of bad drunken dancing

S - Hungover and travelling home, did nowt

[Schnell]

Decided to force myself to post due to injury trail leading feeling of non-progress. This may not help but at least will make me analyse what I'm doing or should be doing.

STG: Fix fingers. LH a1 pulley is still unwell due to very slow healing and a few instances of overenthusiasm. It tends to not hurt ever when climbing but is sometimes tender the next day. I'm not sure how real this is though, I might be totally imagining the feeling.
MTG: 7B sometime this summer once STG achieved, wrangle sport trip at end of summer. possibly build board in new house.
LTG: get proper job

M. nothing
T: gentle bouldering, plus wide arm pull-ups, front lever attempts and other core stuff
W: build freestanding fingerboard mount which turns out to be laughably low. Not sure if it'll be usable but doesn't really matter short term given the dodgy fingers.
T: easy bouldering, plus shoulder and core stuff. I'm doing lots of pull ups, lock offs etc which may not be really helpful but make me feel like I'm doing something.
F: very easy and not very high soloing, trying to make up mind to go for solo on E2 highball/micro-route but back off due to dodgy finger and cowardice.
S: nothing
S: morning top-roping E6, moves are grand but not sure I'd ever lead it, first pro at 9m with one relatively hairy move at around 6m. afternoon easy bouldering which retrospectively was pushing it as my finger is now slightly tender.

[fried]

All my injuries seem to have cleared up (almost).

M - Nothing
T - Nothing
W - First real indoor session for a while, shit I've got weak(er). Good to actually be able to pull though. First indoor 6A since injured.
T- Bank holiday - it's raining...
F- Bank Holiday - it's raining... Indoors, opt to go to Arkose, a small wall not to far from home, I like this wall, but too small for more than an odd visit. Had fun doing all trhe easy circuits, though some dull aches were going to stop me early, but I managed to rest enough to get through it.

S- Sun.. I have guests.
S- Sun..Have to take mother-in-law to the airport, and get stuck in traffic coming back into Paris.

What a waste of good weather.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Bit of a P.C. break... Been to Font... Was ace!... Didn't do much above 6B+/6Cish but did a cracking amount of volume (whites, reds and blacks mostly) and rode me bike to and from the crag at a new PB average pace*... *tick of the week!

M: Owler Tor - Did circuit up there, nice.
T: Evening bike ride - 25 steady miles.
W: Works - New whites.. Felt hard, worked hard, crushed a fair few! Felt like I actually pulled hard for the first time indoors for about a year!
T: Rest
F: Nowt
S: 76 miles on the bike - did both Winnats pass and Holme Moss (the hard way) - Ate meat.
S: Not so much...

Good volume of activity - not as much climbing as I'd have liked but what I did was good and nothing's hurting which is awesome... Loving the bike right now, really feeling like I'm making progress and have dropped to under 70Kg's while eating and drinking whatever I like!... Planning a big weekend in Scotland this coming one and going to do the TDF route in June (and some Pyreneean climbs in the summer) but getting an overwhelming urge to get back on the limestone and get ticking again...   

:D

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing wife's birthday so I thought it would be churlish to train.
Tue. Board mirror session included a few harder classics.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board worked a few projects managed a couple of things using screw on footholds.
Fri. Went to see Eddie and the Hot Rods and Big Country in Whitby. So a bit of foot taping,body swaying and clapping not exactly a mosh pit workout but a great night.
Sat. Bike 46 miles including 1 in 8 on 50 x 23
Sun. Board worked and did a couple of projects. Bike 55miles including 1 in 5 and 1 in 8.

[nik at work]

M - Nothing
T - BM
W - Evening out, crux hold of bouldery new route project finally dry. Work the moves and then get it ticked, joy.
T - SORE feel like I've been wrestling a gorilla...
F - Nothing
S - Brief evening session, strained back
S - Nothing

Struggling a bit right now, body feels suddenly old and annoying niggley injuries are getting well annoying...
Could do with a break from BM I think and just some mileage on real rock but time is in short supply, and if anything likely to be even more reduced in the next few months. Got a few days without work/family in 4 weeks so am hoping to try and line up a few things over the next couple of weeks to get on in that window. On a more positive note I've made a dozen glue-ins ready for bolting the uber sports project when it dries out, which is good as I need to find some focus.
Sorry boring whingy post.

[shark]

Most exciting development was finally installing the beastmaker in the new house's basement. Vast improvement on previous location though I notice it can get quite airless and sweaty down there. Hope this won't lead to endless fretting about conditions like Shark at Malham ...

Air-con unit and fan.

I'm having one installed on the Catwalk next week.

[cheque]

STG- Normal middle fingers- getting there...
2014 goals- 20 17 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Pull-ups/ shoulder presses. On the latter my new 1 rep max is now 40kg- "novice" level on the strength chart on wikipedia.  Did some reverse wrist curls too.

T- Rest. Really sore. Being a novice is hard.

W- Pleasley Vale. 10 mnutes away from my work.  Traversing, repeated sessions of which will hopefully sort out my crimp endurance, which has been my biggest weakness forever. imestone doesn't feel as alien as expected.

T- Rest.

F- Rest. 6 hour drive to Portland.

S- Blacknor North/ Central/ Beach. Sport feels weird and partners all have hangovers so their desire to climb hard has evaporated. I'm the Grandad of the group and am constantly being reminded of it . Psyche fairly low but do some good easy routes and take a lot of pictures. Bouldered in the evening and did a crimpy V3 (that's 6B+ right?) which is the hardest, fingeriest thing I've done in 2014.

S- Cuttings. On paper this should be a crap crag- quarried, not very expansive and filled with Londoners discovering that cruising 6c in "the gym" equates to about 4+ "outside", but it has some great climbing (in my opinion) and if it was in the Peak I'd go there all the time. Sport still feels weird but lots of routes up to 6b.

M- Cuttings again as I have to leave at noon. Onsight a 6b and feel like I'm back in my stride with limestone sport- shame I don't have another 3 days left on the trip really!

Before this week I was really apprehensive about trying hard on limestone due to my fingers. They've done really well though- stiff in the aftermath of 4 days out of 6 but not sore at all, which is a YYFY.  Didn't do anything hard in Portland but the trip will hopefully a be a springboard back to more challenging stuff.

[Dolly]

M Pilates - how my back had missed it
T Beastmaker - quite a big sess for me
W Gym core and aerobic. Managed to do some squats as well which is a sign my knee is getting a little better I think
T Shed - hardcore and as fun as ever
F
S Some small amounts of riding with the kids then weights in the evening
S 90 minutes on the bike which is the longest Ive ridden since knackering my knee. Seemed fine as long as I took it steady which is encouraging.


Good week (until the weekend) for losing some of my easter tyre as I low carbed it like mad and didnt drink anything.

[french erick]

I commute on the bike 6 miles a day every day, all year. Do try to stretch most mornings, so won't mention that.

STG: complete 5 weeks endurance phase well, currently week 2- endurance has always been an issue with me.
MTG: tick 3 particular routes on upper cave crag at Dunkeld, 1 at Armair and start project boulder in Torridon.
LTG: that's E4/ VIII,8? Cool I'll onsight it then.
VLTG: Romantic Warrior, needles, CA

M: rest after 2 days weekend on rock (tired and thin skinned fingers)
T: rest again
W: interval endurance homewall session 4min on 2 off= reps of 5. 10min rest in between series for 1.30! Wrecked.
T: Core training (gainage from roof holds) and some playing around with newly installed fingerboard 40min
F: interval endurance (as per W) only 1:00
S: interval endurance again 2:00. Felt really hard.
S:interval endurance only managed 1:00

Homewall been reinstated for a month only and now fully complete and functional. Good to start training again. Never used to train until last August, now really enjoying it

[Luke Owens]

Late update...

Monday: Hope Mountain with the little one. Tried the 6C+ Roof LH, forgot my beta and couldn't remember it. Repeated a 6B+ and 6C.

Evening: Nesscliffe, Got extremely close to Northumberland Wonderland (7A+) falling off the last move, really greasy conditions. Repeated the 6B+.

Tuesday: Repeated a 6B+, came close on a 7A and had a few goes on Pantys Down (7A+) going to stick at this one.

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Rest

Friday: Nesscliffe, did Northumberland Wonderland. amazing feeling getting this, the topout is sketchy on your own with one pad and I fell off it the go before I did it. Video here:

Best problem I've ever done for sure! Worked the moves on the 7C traverse "Little Northumberland" also.

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Nesscliffe, back on the 7C can do all the moves apart from one and did a good link. Once the body position is sorted for the move I can't do it'll be on. Psyched!

[mindfull]

All (physical) injuries healed. No specific training. Body weight varies through the week from 62-69. Still cannot get it on 67 for a long period of time.

Easy climbing, resting and a lot of bodyweight exercise did a lot for me lately. Was treated in hospital and could only manage to climb 2 times a week.

Now strangely I'm on peak suddenly, so only Power Endurance onsighting and redpointing away, with some bouldering to maintain a bit of strength and power.

Will try some mid-seven redpoints next Friday if the body moves along.