[Sasquatch]

Mostly an FYI for anyone looking at/using the solutions.  The new version has a higher ankle covering and much narrower toebox.  As someone who loved the original solutions, I can't stand the new one.  Doesn't fit my foot at all.  Really bummed they changed it. 

Time to find a new shoe.....   

You can tell the new one as it has some weirdly tie-dye colored heel.

[a dense loner]

Why don't companies just fuck off from changing shoes that people like!!!

[Baldy]

Aye, looks like shit too.

If I had more money, I would buy a couple of extra pairs so I have something to wear once the current lot wear down.

[erm, sam]

Is that not the new womens model?

[joel182]

Is that not the new womens model?

New women's is purpley tie-dye, new men's is yellowy tie-dye.

[Sasquatch]

The fact they added a womens version and narrowed the men's makes me even more pissed off.  For those of us with wider feet, there are VERY few reasonable shoes on the market, why can't they simply make a narrower version and a wider version both unisex instead of F&*^ing about with the first decent shoe that fits a slightly wider foot since the boreal stinger.   

[mrjonathanr]

I expect you'd fit Scarpa's Instinct VS

[Sasquatch]

Funny you mention those.  I've not climbed in them, but my last trip out of state I spent a fair bit of time trying on shoes(no decent local selection), and those were the only model that fit quite well.  They're now the top of my list for next model.  I'll probably buy a new pair of the old solutions if I can find em online, and also a pair of the instinct vs and see how they do.

[tomtom]

as a 5:10 regular, i'm quietly impresed by my Scarpa Instincts (velcro and slipper)...

[dave]

as a 5:10 regular, i'm quietly impresed by my Scarpa Instincts (velcro and slipper)...

As a 5:10 regular, my scarpa instincts are to not wear scarpas.

[JackAus]

The fact they added a womens version and narrowed the men's makes me even more pissed off.  For those of us with wider feet, there are VERY few reasonable shoes on the market, why can't they simply make a narrower version and a wider version both unisex instead of F&*^ing about with the first decent shoe that fits a slightly wider foot since the boreal stinger.   

I expect you'd fit Scarpa's Instinct VS

Spot on. Sasquatch, do that. Solutions are too narrow for my feet and the Instinct VS is perfect...

[Baldy]

I know everyone raves about the instincts, but I have tried them a couple of times now when I couldn't get solutions and they have crapped out both times with poor build quality.

So either I have been unlucky, or my standards have been set too high with the Solution...which has it's own problems with the strapping.

That said, they felt almost identical when they were on my feet. A little stiffer, but not much difference in terms of touch etc.

[remus]

Baldy, you might have just been unlucky. I've always found the build quality to be great on scarpas. Much better than the five tens and La Sportivas I've owned and about the same as the single pair of Evolv Shamans I've owned. My instinct velcros in particular were great, even after id worn through the toe they took a resole really well and where a great pair of trad/indoor shoes.

[Luke Owens]

I know everyone raves about the instincts, but I have tried them a couple of times now when I couldn't get solutions and they have crapped out both times with poor build quality.

I agree about the poor build quality. My Instincts fit perfectly and I really liked the idea of the big rubber patch on the toe but there's a small section on the big toe knuckle which isn't covered by rubber. This has now worn completely through and has affected the size and ability to toe hook...

[Sasquatch]

Cheers all!

Thanks for the good info.  Looking forward to getting a pair and checking them out.  Still have a solid set of Solutions, a board set, and a decent pair of Miura VS, so it'll be a few months before purchasing....

[rodma]

I love the instinct vs too and haven't had any longevity problems until Dr Tim cursed them during a Caley session. He was all like "they're great except the toe rubber peels off", then he gave me beta that peeled the rubber off.

Seriously though, they are great and have lasted a solid six months of abuse, but are maybe a wee bit soft for grit and that you're patch should really just be smooth and gap free.

Sent from my C6833 using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

I find the Scarpa rubber is slightly better on grit in warm conditions. 5:10 beats it in proper primo times..

[Paul B]

I find the Scarpa rubber is slightly better on grit in warm conditions. 5:10 beats it in proper primo times..

I've found the rubber on the instinct vs (XS Edge) was appalling during the colder months, it also seemed to slip suddenly rather than progressively. This can be scary.

Stu Littlewad has observed that XS Edge is used on the Miura mens whereas the ladies Miuras are given XS Grip. He said this was due to Sportiva believing that lighter people can't make the most of the Edge (which fits with me finding it slippy and people like fatty Barrows thinking "it's the bomb" or something else equally stupid).

[Jaspersharpe]

Hang on.

Scarpa and La Sportiva use the same rubber but there are two different types of rubber and they are only effective based on the weight of the climber (temperatures notwithstanding)?

This shit is getting silly. No wonder Stubbs has nearly as many pairs of climbing shoes as I have Ltd edition ZXs.

What if you gain/lose weight (not you P-Ben)? Do you have to buy new shoes or do you just get yours resoled?

[tomtom]

ALWAYS use the excuse to buy more shoes

[Stubbs]

This shit is getting silly. No wonder Stubbs has nearly as many pairs of climbing shoes as I have Ltd edition ZXs.

I climb better when my shoes match my tshirt

[Jaspersharpe]

Finally some logic. :-)

[Sasquatch]

OK, so I'm a bigger/heavier guy, so the Instinct Vs' Fat Guy Rubber^TM XS Edge should be fine, And as long as I wear a black and/or orange shirt to match the shoes, I'll climb better?  I did notice the solutions use the Skinny Guy Rubber^TM XS Grip rather than the Fat Guy Rubber^TM XS Edge, which has obviously contributed to my preference for cold weather climbing, and generally smeartastic technique. 

The color coordination must be why everyone so many people use solutions, white and black go with almost anything.

[a dense loner]

Yep I feel underdressed if I wear anything but solutions with my black Armani shorts

[Sasquatch]

Dense, Armani doesn't do Athletic gear. 

You should be wearing Patagucci or PranArmani with your solutions, and change back into your Armani at the BMW....