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UKB Power Club Week 219 21st April - 27th April (Read 7767 times)

Muenchener

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STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Visiting family in .uk

M:   Family walk in Bradgate Park - rehab for the mystery leg pain. Also discovering that I can barely walk uphill whatsoever at New Alpinism "Zone 1" nose breathing level. Oops. Drove past Forest Rock afterwards: soaking.
T:
W: Wall, Climbing Station with M jnr. A dozen easy problems (V1-2) to warm up then working a few things on the V5-ish circuit (red-black) with a couple of successes on slabby footworky problems. Three laps on circuit boards to round off. Tom's setting excellent as always; this remains by far my favourite modern bouldering wall.
T: Various DIY & chores at aged parents' house. Knee physio exercises
F: Knee physio & mobility warm-up; kettlebell TGU's 3 per side; core
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. A dozen easy problems to warm up then working harder stuff. Flashed a 6B, significant progress on a couple of 6Cs. This is good going for me, and the grades at this wall generally reflect pretty closely what I can do outdoors. Biked to & from wall ca 25km: training for the new alpinism.
S: Training for the New Alpinism (ii): alpine combine step-up test. 300 metres of step-ups w/big boots & 16kg rucksack. 40:23, almost "good". "Excellent" is twenty minutes. I can't begin to imagine what sort of monster could do that (so no Nanga Parbat for me). Hopefully "good" will suffice for the Kaisergebirge.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2014, 04:36:02 pm by Muenchener »

fried

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Injury checklist

Knee seems O.K except downhill on rough ground
Tennis elbow seems to be getting better, just keep climbing easier stuff.
Back better.

Mon/ Tues - Work

Wednesday - Rare midweek day off, decided on Beauvais hameau, still a bit humid and wasn't feeling the magic, so I decided to go back to Apremont Dames and pick off some more blues, left elbow sore and couldn't pull up on it, so didn't top out a few things. Manage 4/5 new probs.
Thurs - Work
Friday - Indoor, another easy rehab session
Saturday - nowt
Sunday - Slightly higher, less easy rehab session. Knee seems O.K to fall on.

csl

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Aims for April
Endurance sessions twice a week. 4/2
7c on Biscuit Circuit Board. Not far off.
Sport climbing once - the trad at beeston almost counts..
E4/5 in Pembroke. - fairly good effort on an E5 - not done.

Mon - Travelled home from Pembroke
Tue - Biscuit - did a few of the new reds, then did 20 mins ARC
Wed - Biscuit - Had a few attempts at 7c Circuit - then did the 6c a few times. 3x 1.15 mins foot on campusing
Thu - Biscuit - Did a few of the new white V5-7 circuit. Then had a few attempts at 7c circuit. 6x 1.30mins foot on campusing
Fri - nothing
Sat - nothing
Sun - nothing

Accidently did nothing towards the end of this week, only two weeks till Spain now so will have one hard week and an easy one after.

shark

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11.5

M. Malham. Set off late which was a good call as it was baking when we got there. Frigged up Space Race so Tommy could have a TR. Had to work round someone who had a top rope on the Oak. Felt strong when I had a quick play to warm up and got to touch horn from ground first redpoint. Had another 3 redpoints like that including holding it badly and it was greasy. At the end did throw to the top.  Tom did well on Space Race.
T.
W.
T.
F. Malham. Drove up with Tommy and met Sqwuak and Ryan P there. There was a suicide so we couldn't access the crag for a couple of hours. Humid to start but got fresher as day went on. Dogged up Space Race to set up top rope for Tom. I climbed like a sack of potatoes - felt nauseous almost like I had vertigo. Wrote the day off in my mind. Had a play on the Oak. First redpoint matched previous highpoint. Second redpoint felt mega when I got to horn but somehow cocked up lurch to sloper and got a bad bit  missing the thumb catch and came off. Maybe a bit overexcited. Last go got the horn but in wrong place - short rest and did throw to last hard move on traverse. Tom TR'd Space Race in two halves.
S. Foundry. Whilst Poppy at Spider Club did some bouldering on the Wave
S. Felt wiped. Took kids to Foundry but didn't do anything myself.

Best session ever on the Oak on Friday. It's the first time I've got through the throw move twice in a session and on the second redpoint felt fresh enough to carry on and do it if I hadn't muffed the move to the sloper. Progress. Booked to go back Tuesday, Friday and the following Bank Holiday Monday. Looks like weather is staying cool.

kelvin

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Seems like Shark is the only one with a decent set of knees - good to hear of progress chap.

Mon - Boulder room. Easy warm up, then right knee complained on steep stuff. Sacked it off.
Tue - Repeaters. Knee proper sore.
Wed -Foot on campusing due to knee - felt easier today.
Thu - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Parents visiting
Sun - Visit family.

Tough week. Right knee is starting to complain again, I've been a bit lax on one legged squats etc and it's starting to show. Steep climbing really causes issues. Need to find a way to work around it as the way it's feeling, it'll be a fourth op sooner than later.
Work was hard too, stripping wallpaper all week and not using a steam stripper as they are just to slow. By Thu lunch, the elbows had had it. So having the parents up this weekend has been a blessing as it's meant I've had to rest up.

Did a bucketload of pressups and squats and lunges etc this morning - a good session actually.

Muenchener

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Right knee is starting to complain again, I've been a bit lax on one legged squats etc and it's starting to show.

Yep, I feel a very direct correlation between how diligently I do my physio exercises and how ok my knee feels. Even so I've resigned myself to never running again, but at least drop knees etc. seem to be ok.

kelvin

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Even so I've resigned myself to never running again

I'm really struggling with this idea at the moment - it's less than two years since I did a 69 mile ultra and whilst I was never really a runner, I just don't want to accept it's all over.

fried

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We"ll be changing the name of this thread to 'grave dodger's club' at this rate.

Muenchener

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We"ll be changing the name of this thread to 'grave dodger's club' at this rate.

Rage against the dying of the light baby.

fried

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Damn straight.

Dolly

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Firstly re the knee thing. I know I'm not a health professional and I dont know about your injuries/conditions, but this is what I'm doing in the hope its of some use.


Lots of icing. Every 2 or 3 hours for 20 mins. Every day
Running on grass  -  not for long and being very careful to place my foot in a straight line and run slowly and in control
Pushing a physio ball into a corner with my leg straight. 30 reps a few times a day.


Last week I ran for 25 minutes and I walked up and down Snowden with poles and felt fine so something is working. I couldnt do a squat in January but I can just about now. Cant drop knee yet though.




M. Started coming down with summat. Had to have a nap before driving back from Wales and then again as soon as I walked through the door
T Felt rubbish but wanted to do something so did all the level 1s at the Foundry at lunch. Lots of sleep.
W
T Some beastmaking at the Foundry
F Decided I should really try harder so worked some of the level 3s at the Foundry. Felt battered afterwards.
S. Had to do some gardening including mowing the bloody lawns as our gardener has retired. I know.
S Anston. Kin boiling. Climbing in shorts without a shirt and with not great conditions. Did a few things I hadnt done before including nearly flashing Fine art which I was quite pleased/surprised about.


Decided I'm going to try harder at the Foundry and work hard stuff not just do the problems I know I can do. Found it hard at Anston where I really had to try.
 




cheque

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STG- Normal middle fingers
2014 goals- 20 17 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Rest.

T- Pullups and shoulder presses. As to be expected on second week of any new type of training I've got way stronger at the latter.  :strongbench: Whether it has any climbing application is another matter...

W- Rest.

T- Curbar. Elation at getting there for 5 balanced out by the fact is was way too hot 'til about 6. Did all the problems in that little easy quarry near the parking, including a steep 'n' fingery one that I wouldn't have touched at any point in the last four months without negative repercussions.  ;D Then did Kayak- first bold grit slab for ages. Some more soloing to finish.

F- Rest.

S- Rest.

S- Notts Depot. Arrived with 1:20 left 'til closing but that just focussed me into a short and intenseTM session- did the 7a on the circuit board 5 times then some bouldering. Gratifying that I can try really hard on this without worrying about my fingers but wasn't on the very hardest problems I could have picked.

Light at the end of the tunnel finger-wise, just as it's getting to be a bit warm for grit (although I'm not ruling it out until the midges get their teeth seeing as I've been having a blast and seem to be going well on it) which is pretty cool. Might be going to Portland this weekend coming.  :)

First session at the wall for weeks made me realise how many people there are climbing with injuries- one lad I was trying a problem with had his middle finger taped and another two buddy taped (and this is just one hand) and was still giving it everything on a problem that was clearly right at/ above his limit. This is the sort of shit I used to do when I was developing the problems I have and it was a good reminder to limit the regularity of the plastic sessions.

JackAus

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STG: V7
MTG: DWS Project
LTG: V11 in a session.

I actually climbed this week!

M: DWS. Photo shoot with Simon Carter. First time I'd been on the route in over a month surely. Bouldering for the last month has helped, felt alot smoother in the crux and slapped closer to the top, only 3 inches off on one attempt. Some absolutely cracking photos and will be in Simon's next photo book...
T: Ride in the morning. Work.
W: Lot 33 boulder. Quick warm up then got back on a V7 I'm pretty close on. Re-dialed all the moves, except the crux throw, still haven't stuck that yet. I am VERY close though... Work late.
T: Ride in the morning. Work.
F: Ride in the morning. Work.
S: Ride in the morning. Work.
S: Ride in the morning. Work.

I'm also editing a new boulder guide book for a mate. So that is taking up alot of time and slightly killing my brain... I'll be glad when it finally goes to print!

T_B

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STG - do something decent in N Wales. Keen to try Mr Fantastic and if it's not v nice weather, Lou Ferrino/Trigger Cut

83.8Kg

M - Rubicon. Warm. 2 x first 5 moves of Press Low Left, felt miles off kneeling start. Lock to crimp lots of time. Not bad considering.
T -  Fingerboard. 6 x front 3, failed on 5 x on back 3. 3 x 6 x 7 on 15 mm edge with 4 mins rest. Lots of locking on warm up hangs. 40 press ups, 100 crunches.
W - Works p.m. 8 x first 12 moves of Brown 8a, with 2mins 40secs rest, then 4 x first 14 moves of Green 8b (with 2 mins rest), failing on 1 of 4. Finished on some yellows. Tired.
T - Lunch 4 x 10 mins on 4 mins off. Low intensity. 60 leg pulls. Knackered.
F -
S -
S-  Fingerboard. Managed 2 sets of 6 x front 3 and 6 x back 3, but with plenty of rest in between. Finished on 3 x 6 x 7 on 15 mm edge with 4 mins rest. 36 press ups.

1 more week, then a week's holiday in N Wales en famille.

Dexter

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STG bigger belly
MTG one armer all the beastmaker holds
LTG ?? maybe hubble

M: fingerboarding in the morning
T: fingerboard morning wall session evening felt ok but fingertips have been a bit bleedy recently
W: nowt
T: wall session, thought fingers were fine so didnt tape then split my tip again
F: fingerboard, getting stronger and reducing the weight for assisted one armers
S: nowt
S: wall session lots of volume on hardish problems ache a lot today so good sign


shark

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Doddify

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M - Drive back from W/E away then chilled boulding room session in the evening with Mrs.
T - Rest
W - Bouldering room session - tendon tweaking a bit, not too bad though.
T - Bouldering room session - Better, mild tendon ache - back up to 6A+ less pain though - hand feeling stronger. (need to get back to 6C - former peak)
F - Drive to Wales - Pub.
Sa - Rubbish surf - huge waves, stupidly choppy, impossible paddle.
Su - Two surfs, clean and fun in the morning - huge and terrifying in the afternoon. Very rippy - lots of paddling.

Evil

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STG - Couple of things to finish in Font in May

M - Took the dog swimming. Tired from weekend away. Evening did elbow exercises and fingerboarding.
T - Went to timber yard for support beams for home board. Spent much of the rest of the day on making the training board for our living room. Very exciting. Evening routes at the wall - 4+, 5+, 6a+, 6b, 6c (one go on this, got about 2/3rds then too pumped!), 6c (x2 got it second go, this one was more of a one move wonder and then keep going to the top after using all power on that one move), 6b+ (got powered out on this about 2/3rds up again - too much bouldering lately :o).
W - Back to work. Cycling 16 miles total. Evening put some holds on the board and swung around on it a bit.
T - Cycling 16 miles total. Lunchtime 5k run (27:50). Evening session on the board, mainly making up circuits, and also still moving holds around a bit.
F - Morning bodyweight circuit stuff. Evening session on the home board. Doing some stamina rounds, got up to 35 moves. Also made up some short problems. Fun.
S - 6 miles walking. 1hr yoga class at the wall. Bouldering at the wall. Did one V4 in a few goes, and some easier stuff. This set seems hard. Did first part of a V4-6 (probably V5) problem.
S - 5 miles walking. Ikea nightmare. 1.5 hr boulder at the wall not really getting much done, trying on a variety of nasty problems.

tommytwotone

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LTG: Font 7b


M: Nowt, went to Harrogate for lunch and got cried at for a few hours by Una.
T: Not much, put chinup ar up in the evening and did a few half-arsed pullups, lockoffs and leg raises.
W: Lunchtime HIT session at gym, evening Depot session pottering round and even doing a few of the V5-V7 reds.
T: 5-a-side on lunch with work in very hot muggy weather, great workout and totally different sort of fitness to climbing training!
F: Nowt.
S: Leeds Wall - bouldered to warm up, then Wideboyz masterclass. Had a great time, and was very smug to be the only one of my group to get to the top of the offwidth! Stayed afterwards and did a few routes(!), which I'm definitely not fit for. Went out in the evening with other NCT Dads for a "few" beers and a curry, ended up getting totally mullered.
S: Complete writeoff - spent day looking after Una and doing housework.


Not a bad week, 2 climbing sessions which is moving in the right direction post-baby. Main problem at the moment is keeping work diary free at lunchtimes to fit gym sessions in, as that's pretty much my only opportunity to get stuff done. That and not boozing too much.






JohnM

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STG: Indian Summer (Kilnsey), try and do a UK 8a+ in session.
MTG: Fisheye (Oliana), hard mountain trad, some long in Europe (Dolomites?).
LTG: Hard multipitch sport/trad + big wall

I spent the last week travelling round northern Spain with the gf and didn't do anything that could really count as climbing!  I was pretty relaxed about it as after a lot of training and performing reasonably well in Catalunya the week before I could probably have done with the rest.  However, I consumed an obscene amount of fine food and wine so I need to shift the pounds now!

Mon:  Nowt.  Just cleaned the apartment while the other lads had a last day showdown with their projects.
Tues:  Nada.  Travel to San Sebastian.
Wed:  A lot of walking and a swim in the sea.  Found a very hard looking roof project on the beach and did a lip traverse in trainers. Travel to Bilbao.
Thurs: A lot of walking + eating + drinking.
Fri:  15 km hike in the Picos de Europa.
Sat:  Travel to Santiago + a swim in the sea.
Sun:  Climbed a granite boulder (V0+) and used the exercise machines in the park!

Right time to get light, recruited in the crimp and use the Euro fitness I have gained to smash some UK projects!

Sasquatch

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I'm back now that the finger rehab has progressed to actually climbing(or at least trying to :) )

STG: Trip to Tahoe, stabilize weight at 170
MTG: Local projects and trail marathon in July
LTG: Mandala in November, drop weight to 165.

M - FB, Moonboard 8 problems up to 7A, Run 5mi
T - Run 3mi, Weights, Deadlift 285#, Wtd PU's 75#
W - Run 5.5mi
Th - Yoga, FB, Moonboard 12 problems up to 7A, Run 3mi
F - Run 7mi, Weights, Deadlift 285#, Wtd PU's 75#
S - Climb - Boulder 8 problems up to 7A+, then roped up and did 6c, 7a, 7b, 7a+, 7b, 7b, 7b+,6c+, 7b, 6c+, 7a+, 7b.  Felt good overall on the fingers....
S - Hiked 3 hrs, 3600' vertical

Good week.  The weather has been really good lately which has been frustrating with rehabbing a finger.  Hoping to start getting out soon.  Should get out this week. 

webbo

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Mon. Bike 1hr 30mins hard due to wind.
Tue. Board. Repeat a few old problems first go. Do a few things using screw on footholds.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board. 15 problems to warm up then circuit of 6 problems 5 times using screw on footholds.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board. Doing laps on on things that were once projects. Bike 1 hr intervals.
Sun. Bike 2 hrs 7 mins. 8 different ways up locals hills between 1 in 5 and 1 in 10.

Luke Owens

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Monday: 12 Wide Grip Pull Ups

4 x 10 Offset Pull-Ups
2 x 10 Lower Offset Pull-Ups

3 x 10 Dumbell Upright Rows (15kg)
3 x 10 Good Mornings (30kg)

Evening: 30 mins Aerocap

Tuesday: Pantymwyn - Did the 7A+ Firestarter into Sparks link in mega greasy conditions. Video:

Wednesday: 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
10 Dips

Deadhangs (Half crimp)
3 x 10secs - 30mm edge
5 x 10secs - First joint edge

3 x 1min Plank
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises

Thursday: Pantymwyn - Started working on "Panty's Down" (7A+). Can do the crux move, just need to work the rest.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Rest - Had planned to hit the slate that's why I had rested. Couldn't get out due to family commitments and couldn't get psyched to train at home.

duncan

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STG - rehab. elbow. Lose 2kg by end May.
MTG - LH&F BHAG in Yosemite this June (E5 OS this summer).
LTG - LH&F stuff in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

73.2kg

M - drive home from Pembroke
T - Step-ups 40 mins
W - Elbow rehab. stuff - most days
T - Step-ups 30 mins
F -
S - Step-ups 40 mins
S - Hill runs. 500m up

Still struggling with elbow. Hope the leg exercises are helpful, mainly it feels as if I have to do something. Mt Watkins and the L side of El Cap are slabs basically aren't they?

Muenchener

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Hope the leg exercises are helpful, mainly it feels as if I have to do something. Mt Watkins and the L side of El Cap are slabs basically aren't they?

I view the step ups 'n' stuff more as a means of not being already knackered before I even start climbing. And/or not being so fucked after twelve hours that I forget how to rig an ab, and die.

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7A:    15/50
7A+:  6/40
7B:    2/30
7B+:  1/20
7C:    1/10

Stretches: 4/4

Mon: Anstey's with Mark. Managed to do all the moves on a 7C+ but it's going to be a beast to link. Pretty psyched!
Tues: Session at the Bunker. Despite feeling a little ill did a few hard problems on the systems board.
Wed: Session at the Bunker, can't really remember what I did.
Thurs: Rest day. Stretches.
Fri: Session at the Bunker, managed to do some shoulder work and actually climbed a few proper problems! Stretches.
Sat: Home board and Beastmaker session, as well as pull-ups. Stretches
Sun: Bovey Woods - everything was wet so didn't really climb anything. Psyched to come back soon and get on some hard stuff though! Stretches.  :)

An alright week in terms of training but need to get outdoors more! Crimp strength is still quite weak.

duncan

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Hope the leg exercises are helpful, mainly it feels as if I have to do something. Mt Watkins and the L side of El Cap are slabs basically aren't they?

I view the step ups 'n' stuff more as a means of not being already knackered before I even start climbing. And/or not being so fucked after twelve hours that I forget how to rig an ab, and die.

Both of those too, although they mostly apply to trips beyond this summer. Also jumaring is very leg-intensive, if done properly. But it's mainly to keep me occupied with something vaguely constructive.

nik at work

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Sorry folks, been absent for last two or three weeks. Summary

Spent couple of weeks pre Font fngerboarding and a couple of sessions on a project line with a frustratingly damp hold. Had a weekend in the UK meeting up with friends which was nice.
Font trip was nice but climbing wise not a classic. A combination of me not really having any targets or goals, warm humid damp weather and the unsurprising fact that hanging from a BM is good for finger strength but bad for actually climbing. Didn't really get into any sort of gear until the last day. Nice pastries though...

I'll do a proper posting for this week, honest.

 

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