[Moo]

The best thing I learned from this comp was that over-caffeinated sugary drink company made Rustam have a normal haircut for most of the season.

[finbarrr]

interview with Rustam just after the final:

http://youtu.be/sd31iiRL5F4?t=2h22m13s

he didn't train for two weeks before this comp, and surprised himself

[jwi]

How did we all do?

Results:

1   NOGUCHI   Akiyo   JPN   610.00
2   COXSEY   Shauna   GBR   556.00
3   STÖHR   Anna   AUT   488.00
4   WURM   Juliane   GER   430.00

1   HOJER   Jan   GER   558.00
2   SHARAFUTDINOV   Dmitrii   RUS   467.00
3   GLAIRON MONDET   Guillaume   FRA   461.00
4   GELMANOV   Rustam   RUS   337.00

1. Akiyo Noguchi
2. Anna Stöhr.
3. Shauna Coxsey
Outsider: Juliane Wurm


1. Rustam Gelmanov. This will be his year
2. Jan Hojer
3. Guillaume Glairon-Mondet

[psychomansam]

Shauna, first problem, nerves? Just not her day?
Great job on getting the 2nd overall. Next year, even more experience, even more consistency. Gotta be her year 

[Durbs]

Shauna, first problem, nerves? Just not her day?
Great job on getting the 2nd overall. Next year, even more experience, even more consistency. Gotta be her year 

Looked tricky - a couple of others matched the last hold mostly by touching it, not hanging it - not sure if Shauna was trying to get more established on it, or just could take off that other hand. Gutting though - if she'd held it, that would've been the win. Especially as she'd figured out the static method over the dyno.

Even so, Silver overall is fantastic and she can't really be disappointed with it. Good Finals I thought.

So Anna - complacent after thrashing so thoroughly last year, off the boil, or have Shauna & Akiyo just stepped up massively?

[slackline]

Even so, Silver overall is fantastic and she can't really be disappointed with it. Good Finals I thought.

Boulder problems and the crowd were incredible! I am sad about my performance today but I can not be disapointed with the season I've had!

[Durbs]

Exactly.

[r-man]

Shauna, first problem, nerves? Just not her day?

Gutting though - if she'd held it, that would've been the win.

Yep, one hand match away from the overall gold!  Didn't Malc have a similar situation years ago?

Still, silver's not shabby. Good comp. Rustam was incredible. Always impressive when he doesn't get stumped by lank moves.

[AlistairB]

After a tough season Rustam decided to take inspiration from a higher power:



Also, I believe Michaela was 11th which is an ace result for a first semi  .

[Fiend]

Rustam on the first problem, what a masterclass. Syked to watch the rest of it.

[mr__j5]

This is the first year i have paid much attention to these comps. I just read Akiyo has been world champion before - is that right? (Don't tell me to check the IFSC website ... it's unnavigable!)

Maybe World Cup winner before if that is what you mean. She certainly hasn't won the world championships before.
She was overall world cup winner in 2009 & 2010, I can't be bothered to look further back than that.

[Muenchener]

This is the first year i have paid much attention to these comps.

Me too.

I took my son to watch the World Cup round in Munich two years ago and we both enjoyed it immensely (to my considerable surprise), but I've never paid close attention to the results and overall standings before. Is this year different because the decision fell on the last problem of the last round instead of Anna just automatically winning everything? Because I'm more nationalistic than I previously suspected and there was a British contender? Dunno. 

I continue to not give a fart about lead competitions except when Adam is taking part.

[psychomansam]

This is the first year i have paid much attention to these comps. I just read Akiyo has been world champion before - is that right? (Don't tell me to check the IFSC website ... it's unnavigable!)

Maybe World Cup winner before if that is what you mean. She certainly hasn't won the world championships before.
She was overall world cup winner in 2009 & 2010, I can't be bothered to look further back than that.

Yes, I think that is what I mean. So are the "world championships" a one-time event?

Yes. Annual

[psychomansam]

Shauna, first problem, nerves? Just not her day?
Great job on getting the 2nd overall. Next year, even more experience, even more consistency. Gotta be her year 

Looked tricky - a couple of others matched the last hold mostly by touching it, not hanging it - not sure if Shauna was trying to get more established on it, or just could take off that other hand. Gutting though - if she'd held it, that would've been the win. Especially as she'd figured out the static method over the dyno.

Even so, Silver overall is fantastic and she can't really be disappointed with it. Good Finals I thought.

So Anna - complacent after thrashing so thoroughly last year, off the boil, or have Shauna & Akiyo just stepped up massively?

I suspect if Shauna had gone dynamic (from the first attempt) she would have made it. As it was, she chose static and it was reachy - but I think she could have worked her feet up slightly more and made it work. She looked pretty nervous/stressed on it I thought, and I suspect the mental game was giving her trouble.

As for Anna - I think it's a bit of both.

[Muenchener]

Shark grandly giving the women's world cup team a large chunk of UKB's meagre revenues this year!

Good point, well done shark.

I feel my ukb membership fee was well spent on a worthy cause. Wait a mo ...

[T_B]

Just watched the final. Rustam   

Congrats Shauna, looked like a tough set of blocs to keep your head together on 

[Fiend]

Just watched the final. Rustam   

really impressive. He out-janed Jan, so effortless on #1 and #4. Good on him.

Pity about Shauna but great for her overall. 2 golds 2 silvers? I forget. Great to watch anyway. I didn't like the problems (handjam aside!) as much as the other Euro / US / Canada legs, but the actual contest was good.

Really enjoyed this series. Problems / competitiveness / vibes / filming / commentary have been great overall.

[GraemeA]

Yes. Annual

No every 2 years.

(Arco 2011 and Paris 2012 were due to realigning the Worlds so they didn't clash with the World Games)

[JackAus]

[Clart]

IFSC Climbing World Cup Imst:

Semi:


Full wood:

[Clart]

IFSC 2014 World Championship, Gijion.

Semi:


Final: