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UKB Power Club Week 218 14th April - 20th April (Read 8659 times)

JackAus

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I'll get this out the way quick...




I didn't climb at all this week... :slap:
Work and on the bike every day.... Will be back climbing again tomorrow though...

Luke Owens

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Monday: Lunch session:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups

Deadhangs:
30mm Edge, Half Crimp - 3 x 10 secs
Single Joint Edge, Half Crimp - 5 x 10 secs

3 x 10 Dumbell Upright Rows (15kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises

Tuesday: Couple of hours at Pantymwyn Fell off the last move on the 7A+ left finish to Firestarter 3 times. Worked out some better beta for this move then kept powering out before it and couldn't make it to the same highpoint.

Good training session, felt very strong on individual moves PE was lacking though. I seem to only have a few good attempts in me per session on these cave type problems.

Wednesday: Warm evening at Dinbren.

2 x 6b Warm up

Did Big Mouth Strikes Again (7a) first go after putting the clips in.

Had a brief go on the 7c project but skin was too thin.

Dogged up "In Search of Someone Silly" (7a+/b). Got all the moves quick so had a quick redpoint as it was getting late. Surprised myself falling off on the last move of the route. Will go easily next time.

Thursday: Rest

Friday: Crafnant bouldering.

Option C (6C) - Once I could pull off the floor it went 2nd go.
Wonderwall Arete (6C) - Took quite a few goes.
Snap, Crackle and Pop (6C) - 3rd or 4th go.
Riley's Arete sds (7A) - Took an hour felt hard as the slopers were so greasy in the direct sun. One of the most perfect problems on perfect slopers.

Great day, so happy to climb well on my anti-style (slopers), don't think I crimped all day!

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Evening Deadhangs:

5 x 10 secs - 30mm edge (Half crimp)
5 x 5 secs - 35 Degree Slopers
5 x 5 secs - LH 20mm edge, RH 30mm edge (Half crimp)
5 x 5 secs - RH 20mm edge, LH 30mm edge (Half crimp)

mindfull

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67,7kg  :clap2:

MONDAY 30min PO/STR(BodyWeight)
20x1pullup(lockoff 7sec)/3pushup(explosive)
5x10crunches(explosive)
5x10crunches(explosive/sideways)

TUESDAY Rest

WEDNESDAY 120min FUN(routes)
5b|5b|
6a\
6c\(4blocks)
6a\5b\
6a|

THURSDAY 30min EN/HIT(BodyWeight), Core
10x 2pullup/10pushup
5x   2pullup/10pushup
Core: Drawing legs, Planks, Superman, ...

FRIDAY rest

SATURDAY
Easy fun climbing up to 6b

JohnM

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STG: Indian Summer (Kilnsey)
MTG: Fisheye (Oliana), hard mountain trad.
LTG: Hard multipitch sport/trad + big wall

This week was spent climbing in Spain.  I didn't do a lot of new routes but did a lot of climbing on harder routes rather than staying in my 7c+/8a comfort zone.  I have got to get on these harder things to progress even if it mean less ticks!

Mon - Rest
Tues - We decide to warm up at Tres Ponts instead of sitting around all day waiting for the sun to come off Oliana.  Do a 7a and then the cool 7b with no name.  I then think it is a good idea to flash El Segre, a steep 7c+, hoping to induce a mild warm up pump ready for Oliana.  However, this doesn't go to plan and I get really pumped which I have to fight all the way to the top with horrible dry mouth and gasping for air.  Hot humid conditions at Oliana with no breeze resulting in a having a hard time on Fisheye.  As a team we decide to sack off Oliana for more north facing crags and better conditions/less people.
Wed - Go to Figols a north facing crag we can see from our balcony.  Try the classic 8b there called Aspid.  Work out all the moves pretty quick, fail to redpoint but link from below the crux to the top.
Thurs - Rest
Fri - Go to Figols.  Get through the crux of the 8b but then fall off the moves above.  Get through the crux again on my 4th redpoint attempt and engage full fight mode crimping every hold in the wrong order, using improv sequences and holds I've never used before and spending ages at all the shake outs but eventually fight my way to the top!
Sat - Go to Perles to look at Sin Perdon and Escalatamasters.  Both look amazing and the former is on the future to do list.  Go to Oliana to get the draws back.  Warm up on the 7c and look at the 8a+ extension but get shut down.  The temperature drops significantly with a cold wind.  Get on Fisheye but lack the power to do the bottom third.  Link from the below the crux all the way to the top and it feels piss.  Makes me realize I should be able to do it no problem in better conditions.
Sun - Figols again.  Try the 8a link up between the 8b and the top of the 8c+/9a.  Takes me 3 redpoint attempts and feeling broken!

A decent week all in all.  Nice to get a hard 8b done and improve my session fitness.  It was a shame I couldn't get Fisheye done but at the time when we decided to sack off Oliana for other crags it was the right decision.  I will return in November for the good conditions!   

Dexter

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STG: bigger belly
MTG: get stronger
LTG: Hubble?

M: fingerboard one arm stuff
T: fingerboard and wall session elbow hurt a bit but a good session
W: Some press ups for the elbow
T: Wall session skin not great but elbow ok
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Wall session felt strong

Not too bad still need to use the fingerboard more

Luke Owens

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Fri - Go to Figols.  Get through the crux of the 8b but then fall off the moves above.  Get through the crux again on my 4th redpoint attempt and engage full fight mode crimping every hold in the wrong order, using improv sequences and holds I've never used before and spending ages at all the shake outs but eventually fight my way to the top!

Effort on the 8b John! As I said to Ally, plan B turned out to be the best idea for you guys. Sounds like you'll breeze Fish Eye in November!

fried

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Busy week of work.

Mon- Tues - Nufin
Weds - Was working outside Paris, finishing at noon, so drove and spent an afternoon at Bois Rond. Still not confident aboiut falling on the knee, so backed off a lot of top moves. Much stronger on some crimpy stuff I've failed before. Spent a while working a red traverse
 http://bleau.info/rond/3514.html

Linked all the moves on the first side, strangely full of holds for a red. Tired.

Thurs-Fri - Nothing
Sat - Missus' birthday tomorrow, so no forest for me, shopping all day.
Sun - 2.5h in the morning indoors, pulled something in my back....fed up with injuries and feeling old. Cooked all afternoon.

Muenchener

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STG (Summer): Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
MTG (Autumn): 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   
T: Bike to & from work ca 25km
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Arrived late & stressed from work, so short bouldering session instead of routes. Dozen easy problems to warm up, repeated previous high point & links on proj but no new progress, 4 sets 1 & 2 finger pocket exercises on system board.
T: Knee physio exercises & mobility
F: Sport climbing in the Bavarian Alps, Zellerwand. Rock quality not comparable to the 'jura. but with the critical advantage today of Not Raining. Also turns out to be the land of the sandbagged 6b+. I redpointed one that I had started work on on a previous visit; got it second go today, but in total about the most effort I have put into a route. My mate got on another to warm up for his 7c proj, and was distressed to find himself needing four goes to redpoint the warm up. Then there was one the guidebook said was "hard for the grade". We didn't dare to look.
S: Travel to .uk for family visit.
S: UK family visit. Painful muscle strain in my left thigh although I have no recollection of what might have caused it. Odd.

csl

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Aims for April
Endurance sessions twice a week. 4/2
7c on Biscuit Circuit Board. Not far off.
Sport climbing once - the trad at beeston almost counts..
E4/5 in Pembroke. - fairly good effort on an E5. Only got on one route that hard for various reasons.

Mon - rest
Tue - biscuit. 7c - one attempt. Start to first crux. Fell off, jumped back on and did to finish. Then 7a+ circuit 5 reps with 1 mins rest. A few more laps on 6c with short rest. Got really pumped.
Wed - rest
Thu - rest
Fri - pembroke - carreg y barcud. Bit of a hot day, fell off an E1 warmup. Grand plans of mean feat went out the window.
Sat - did the hole and sunlover at trevallan then tried john wayne at st govans. Onsight go was ok, got to pegs post crux and was boxed.  Second go ground up fell on the upper wall after all the steep/hard climbing. Just too pumped. Definately should have done it! Did an e2 called ricochet after which was fun.
Sun - finally thought id make it down the leap for the routes i actually wanted to do all weekend, but after doing the warmup, beast from the undergrowth, the rain came and we went to the pub.

A shame not to actually get on any of my main objectives in Pembroke but a good weekend all the same. Fairly happy with my performance on John Wayne, and psyched to get back soon.

kelvin

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Had an ace week really  :)

Started the week with a bad knee, so had an easy boulder on Monday but rested until Wed, before driving to North Wales.

Thu - Dinorwig. Jordon's first time on slate really, he saw Looning the Tube and any hope of an onsight for me basejumped from the level. Seconded that, quite a shock to the system after grit this last couple of months. Had a failed lead on Gaddafi Duck, happy to have just gone for it tho. Tricky from bolt 1 to 2 but easier after. Then got on Goose Creature, my first attempt at Uk tech 6a - couldn't get through the crux in the end, as I was just too static. Managed to stand on that ridiculous smear quite happily after a go or two but then I ended up with a static rockover I couldn't stand up from.  :wall: E3 6a in old money tho and harder than any French sport I've done, so happy to be able to say I was on the sharp end.

Fri - Dinorwig. Seconded Alive and Kicking cleanlyup to the Bella Lugosi lower offs as the ones for Alive are pooped and we needed to recover the draws. One lower off bolt pulling out over a couple of centimeters. Then randomly got chatting to Mel Edwards, one of the 80s wads, he's been back climbing the last year or so and was having a nose at the Rainbow Slab. He was responsible for putting up Last Tango in Paris, one of the routes on this year's hit list for me. Anyways, I set off up Bella Lugosi having to cope with disco leg, a head all over the place from decking out the other week, leading over RPs for the first time AND Mel sat there watching... made it to the top tho, for what feels like my first 'proper' E1.

Fri evening, after some dinner, we headed back to the quarries to do Snakes and Ladders. Yes, in the dark. Twats. This despite never having been in the bottom of Australia, Dali's Hole, Mordor, Lost World or even knowing where the Salt Pan levels where. We had two head torches tho. Jordon, at 19, suggested the idea and the old man in me wanted to say 'don't be daft' but happily I went with it. We failed of course, somewhere in the bottom of Australia but only after lot's of laughter, climbing the chain, abbing into we knew not what and a slow realisation that we had no idea where we were going. Cracking evening!

So about midnight, we stopped at Jerry's Roof and Jordon had a play on that. I tried holding the holds. Fuck me. Font 7C is hard.

Sat - The plan had been Vivian Quarry but somehow we ended up soloing Ordinary Route on Idwal Slabs, Cneifen Arete, heading up Gribin and down Bristly Ridge before my knee went 'no' to whizzing across Tryfan as well. Great training for Swizzy this summer. I started climbing originally so that I could do days like this - it felt good.

Yeah, really happy with this week and the fact that, despite the head issues, I got on routes right at my limit. Came away with a bag full of things that I need to address too - flexibility, movement, rockover strength etc but headed in the right direction.

Muenchener

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Had an ace week really  :)
...
Bella Lugosi ... my first 'proper' E1.

Well done. I remember that one being very much a proper E1.

cheque

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STG- normal middle fingers
2014 goals- 20 18 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Rest.

T- Pullups, weights (shoulder press)

W- Rest.

T- Black Rocks. First after work session from my new workplace. Got there at 5:08- YYFY :dance1: Soloed 18 easy thrutchy routes. Remembered how much I love the place.

F- Walked up Kinder from Hayfield with girlfriend. Soloed a few routes at the Downfall, rescued a dehydrated lizard, got sunburnt. Ace day.

S- Dovestone Tor. Soloed everything easy, crusied some harder stuff on a rope including a (soft) E1. Another ace day.

S- Rest.

Felt completely at ease on the rock again this week. Fingers feeling good too.  ;D

Dolly

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Didnt post last week as was too busy having fun to be typing


so 2 weeks ago
M Quick sess at the Foundry lunchtime. Pilates in the evening
T 16 mins gentle running in the park
W Lamping with Lagers. I wasnt very good and didnt manage to do anything
T Gym core and some aero
F
S Porth Ysgo. Pretty hot - quite a few easy problems with my son
S 19 minutes run at the top of the beach in Pwllheli. Knee slowly getting getting better


Last week
M easy problems at boiling RAC boulders with Owen again - he's getting the hang of this climbing thing a little
T 23 minutes run
W didnt have long but did Pant's traverse at Rhiw - its deffo worth going there. Walked up Tre'r Ceiri in the afternoon to test my knee which was fine
T Back to Rhiw again. Lovely place for some more with Owen.
F 22 minutes run
S Walked up Snowden with Owen. It was utterly crowded. Knee was fine with poles though
S A wet humid Porth Ysgo with no breeze. Only did 2 easy problems before it started properly raining


So good that my knee is definitely getting better - I can run for more than 20 minutes and walk up and down Snowden OK.
I put on loads of weight on holiday though - eating and drinking what I wanted. I did have a great time though


EdGowSmith

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Missed last week due to lack of internet.

7A:    15/50
7A+:  6/40
7B:    2/30
7B+:  1/20
7C:    1/10  :2thumbsup:

Stretches: 7/8 :/

Mon: Rest day to save skin. Stretches.
Tues: Headed up to Dartmoor with Andy. Got very, very close on a V9 at Hound Tor and then did a V6 at Bonehill.
Wed: Skin feeling very thin so resting. Stretches.
Thurs: Spent whole day travelling to the Peak, so no climbing.
Fri:First day climbing at Stanage, way too hot so nothing above 7A. Stretches.
Sat: Got up early to get good conditions. Did a 7B and some other easier stuff.
Sun: Feeling destroyed, met up with Jack and went to Blackwell Dale for a bit but could only do a 6B. Then Burbage North in the evening, just slabs.
Mon: Rest day at Jack's to try and recover.
Tues: Burbage North in the afternoon. Did a circuit of easier stuff and then despite it being greasy managed to do The Terrace - first 7C of the year, YYFY. Stretches.
Wed: Burbage West in the afternoon, did 3 7As and got some footage of other stuff. Stretches.
Thurs: Was supposed to be resting but got bored so went and tried the Buckstone Dyno. Bad idea as I was too weak to do it. Stretches.
Fri: Went back to try the Buckstone Dyno, felt piss and got it quickly. Then failed on the Green Room Slap and it got too hot to climb. Stretches.
Sat:Spent the morning packing and then went to Burbage North in the evening. Annoyed myself by getting super close on Zaff Skoczylas sit start but greasing off the top - way too hot and should have tried in better conditions. Then got picked up.
Sun: Rest day.

Pretty sick two weeks really. Managed to get a good volume of problems in and do a 7C. Best thing was it felt easy so I reckon I can do a lot harder.
Need to do more 7A+s and 7Bs though.
Now back to training :)

Ti_pin_man

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just for the record. 
 :lol:
Not that much training or climbing except Saturday when I was pleased to see I hadnt lost any performance.  Still as crap as ever.  Return to the training diary already underway. 

Woody now built, but holds not properly set yet.   Pull up a seat, I may be some time.  :popcorn:

webbo

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Mon. Board mirror session. A bit of battle tired from weekend.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. After taking car in for mot in Malton head up to Nyork moors. Stormy hall. Warm up on Storming Norman boulder, do various things before dogging S. N.as part of Warm up. Link it first go.  Spot some holds under the roof which I think is a 6c do this 2nd go. Then do another problem starting in same place going right avoiding the jug on first problem. About to move on then spot some holds on left of roof, spend a while working out a left hand version then linking it. Head up to the top problems but it's too windy. So go to clemmits, seems to be going back to nature a bit. Do Irn Bru and a couple of other things.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Board mirror session. Bike 1 hr intervals. Invited for drinks at new neighbours, end up putting missus to bed at tea time (too much gin and not enough tonic)
Sat bike 50 miles.
Sun. N York moors again. Thorgill work and do do aretes on the diamond but can't top out due to top being thick with moss. I tied to clean it but I couldn't get in a position to do so with out a rope. Do Red October which was given 6c which it felt like to me but I've seen it given 5+!! On ukc. Tried a few other things before running out of umph.

Not a bad week apart from failed mot which cost £1000

shark

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M. Buthiers again. Managed the desperate 6B+ left of the easyish flake on boulder next to Les Monos then checked out Attention Chef D'Oeuvres and got reasonable high and Tom did well too. Brit team turned up who'd been on it the day before so got some useful beta. Forearms sore after and skin thin.
T.
W. Buthiers yet again with boys. Psyched for Chef D'Ouevre. Bottled it a couple of times but MTFU'd and bagged it in the end  :dance1:
Went to Elephant with rest of the family in the afternoon. Did black39 but made no impression on Le Coeur
T.
F.  Guess where? Started just behind Auberge Canard to warm up then went in search of Fantasia 6C and eventually found it. Me and Ben did it but Tommy struggled to keep his feet on as he was so stretched going for jug. Went to Lady Big Claques. Felt strong but it was too warm Duncan and tribe turned up. I took Tommy back to Fantasia but he couldn't get it and was massively pissed off. Back to LBC for some more goes and managed to turn my ankle. No cigar
S. Drive back
S. Surprise birthday party  :party:

Perfect weather in Font in contrast to last year's washout so booked again for next year. Delighted to get Chef D'Oeuvre, vid below:



Ben on Fantasia:




 

Doylo

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"Stay tight". Sharks turned into Obe Carrion!

shark

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"Stay tight". Sharks turned into Obe Carrion!

Don't what came over me. Caught it off Mina...


nai

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Effort Simon. I was at Buthiers on Wednesday, meant to go looking for that but got sidetracked by La Rampe and some other stuff. Definitely needs to go on the list for next year though.

T_B

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84Kg

M - Lunch, board. Worked out and did 10 reps of a 13-move circuit. Failed on last move of 3 of them.
T -
W - P.M. Rubicon. Amazing cons. Did first 5 moves of press low left twice i.e. to move slapping from kneeling start into gaston. Didn't do kneeling start, but put some time in. Definite progress.
T - S Ill

Not a big week, but some good links on Wednesday p.m. and great to be outside after work.

shark

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Effort Simon. I was at Buthiers on Wednesday, meant to go looking for that but got sidetracked by La Rampe and some other stuff. Definitely needs to go on the list for next year though.

Tried La Rampe previously. Desperate. One for colder conditions.

The guidebooks have off putting descriptions for Buthiers but I think it is great. Maybe a good thing as it is usually pretty quiet

nai

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That was the conclusion I came too re La Rampe, need a local gite and an early morning next year.

Buthiers is great for individual problems but we didn't find the kids or yellow circuits as listed by bleau info and the Canard yellow is about the worst circuit I've ever tried to follow.  Nice to escape the crowds at other venues though, Sabot (I know I should expect it there but the family like it) was a joke the day we went this year, absolutely rammed.

fried

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The yellow at Buthiers Piscine is well worth a look for complete beginners or taller kids. It can be found by walking past the 'pool' entrance and continuing for a few minutes. The white I've never managed to find...despite some fruitless searching. Did anyone try the blue circuit at Canard, I remember it being a harrowing experience.

nai

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Thanks, that sounds like it will be ideal for us if we can find it, gives me a valid reason to go back next year.

 

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