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Robust quick draws for sport climbing/sieging (Read 7418 times)

tim palmer

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I am at the point of buying some more draws and want some heavy duty ones for hanging off/falling on to which won't be ruined by sharp hangers.
Any recommendations?

T_B

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Not got them, but these looked really nice in the shop http://www.cragxclimbing.com/products/dmm-alpha-sport-multi-pack

slackline

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Not got them, but these looked really nice in the shop http://www.cragxclimbing.com/products/dmm-alpha-sport-multi-pack

Mate got some last year and used them in Spain and LPT, they are very nice, solid/chunky with good gate action for clipping.  I'd be buying these if/when I get a dedicated set of sport-draws.

Stubbs

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Grivel do these ones with a handle for extra easy cheating!

http://www.grivel.com/products/rock/quickdraws/1-alpha_easy

DanD

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I have a set of alphas - they are great. But  I have noticed three disadvantages.

They are really 'clippy' so much so that  I managed to clip my leg loop into one whilst climbing past it on a technical wall climb - that was a bit awkward to sort out without falling off.

The shorter ones are really stiff, which makes it very easy to grab.  However,  on an easy route in siruana, bolted with fat old glue ins,  as I climbed past the bolt the alpha rotated under tension from the rope and unclipped itself from the bolt.  Not necessarily a fault of the alpha but more to do with the type of bolt and something to be aware of with stiff draws.  Luckily it was an easy route and I could quest onto the next bolt even though it would have been a ground fall.

Lots of my mates have them and they keep accusing me of stealing theirs. When of course it is the other way around.

J_duds

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These Petzl ones were in a route I was sharing and in the short space of time i used them they seemed sturdy with smooth clipping:
http://www.cragxclimbing.com/collections/climbing-gear-1/products/petzl-spirit-express

Anybody got any of these, are they good in the long term?

Sasquatch

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These Petzl ones were in a route I was sharing and in the short space of time i used them they seemed sturdy with smooth clipping:
http://www.cragxclimbing.com/collections/climbing-gear-1/products/petzl-spirit-express

Anybody got any of these, are they good in the long term?

Had a few different versions for 10 plus years.  Never had any problems, and always loved em.

chris j

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Grivel do these ones with a handle for extra easy cheating!

http://www.grivel.com/products/rock/quickdraws/1-alpha_easy

I have a few of these, like them a lot. Snap-gate at the bolt end and wiregate for the rope end.

HaeMeS

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I tried the Edelrid Slash, but didn't like them. Bought Edelrid Pure Slim quickdraws instead (got them really cheap). They are OK, but I do regret not buying Petzl Spirits. I favor my climbing partners Spirit draws over mine. Be wise and buy nothing but the best.

Wood FT

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Been using Gus' wild country ones (the new blue ones) and I'm really impressed, if I was buying sport draws it would be them. Rope just gets sucked in through the gate

Sasquatch

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Petzl came out (last fall?) with a cheaper quickdraw which looks very similar to the Spirits and is supposed to be on the durable/rugged side. I haven't used them though, so not sure how they function.

http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Carabiners/DJINN-AXESS?l=INT

standard

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Thought I would revive this thread. I need some new sport quickdraws, ideally of the chunky easy-to-grab variety. Petzl Spirit Express are the obvious choice but pricey. DMM Alpha's look nice but are about 50% more than the Spirit's. Has anyone used the Edelrid Slash draws? They are really cheap here and look OK.

If you want DMM, I'd recommend the shadow qd's over the alphas. Nicer in my opinion, but not quite as rugged.
Also available very cheaply at the moment on the epic TV shop.
https://shop.epictv.com/en/quickdraws/dmm/shadow-straight-2015

slackline

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If you want DMM, I'd recommend the shadow qd's over the alphas. Nicer in my opinion, but not quite as rugged.

 :agree: I have a set of these and prefer them to my friends Alpha's which I find a bit too chunky for my liking.  The Shaddows are still robust and durable (so far).

nai

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Would this work out cheaper than the Petzls?  I know you're not local but if shark is coming over soon he could pick you up a pack or 2?

http://www.cragxclimbing.com/collections/sport-climbing/products/dmm-alpha-sport-multi-pack

shark

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Thought I would revive this thread. I need some new sport quickdraws, ideally of the chunky easy-to-grab variety. Petzl Spirit Express are the obvious choice but pricey.

The Spirits are great

http://www.mec.ca/product/5031-654/petzl-spirit-express-quickdraw

These seem very cheap ie half the price of the UK
« Last Edit: July 14, 2015, 09:10:36 am by shark »

petejh

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I bought a rack of the Edelrid Pure Sport. Got these because they were the cheapest sport draws that have clean-nose solid gates and a wide bone. I think they're brill and it's hard to beat the price, especially if you get them from one of the German online stores. Clearly not supportive of the only UK-based gear manufacturer DMM (but I don't rate Alpha Sports enough to pay that much for them), nor the local gear shops (they get enough of my trade however).

sidewinder

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http://www.joe-brown.com/21622/products/grivel-alpha-sport-quickdraw---11cm-x-5-pack.aspx

These look good to me (also in the market for some) and satisfy cheap, clean nose and sport orientated.  I got the alpha sports from cliffhanger last year @ 6 for £60 and (unlike others) really like them, to the extent that I am maybe just gonna pay the cragx price for the alphas rather than buying the grivels I have just linked to.  Having some with longer slings is also nice I think.

What do people think about the qds with solid gate for the bolt, wire for the rope (euro style?).

Muenchener

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I use 'em, I like 'em. Built my own out of cheap packs of DMM Aeros from Field & Trek and some nice fat nylon dogbones from Edelrid.

Paul B

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I prefer the Wildcountry draws that look very much like the DMMs only are blue:

(A link to the Darkside: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6369)

I think the long ones are brilliant. I don't have a complete set yet but will do soon. If only you knew someone who manufactured such draws Tim?

 

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