UKBouldering.com

UKB Power Club Week 217 7th April - 13th April (Read 4777 times)

JackAus

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 811
  • Karma: +56/-0
Stg: V7 (fingers is now gone..)
Mtg: DWS Project (after winter)
Ltg: V11 in a session.

Weather is still poo. 2 good wet weather crags around here but everything getting soaked on the walk in isn't very enticing...

M: Cheesedale bouldering. Not been in 6 months. Easiest thing here is a very hard, very finger tweaky V6... Had a quick go on it... Still just the last big throw from a shitty one pad 2 finger pocket...
Got back on a V7 I'd been trying. Got back to the same point but still can't commit to a high awkward heel hook. Feels like its not far away.
Also started working a V9 that had some doable looking moves on it. Ended up making alot of progress on the lower half but almost none on the top half. Need to be ALOT stronger to be able to do it... Very good problem...
T: Work. Rain.
W: Big ride on new bike. Fuck I love it. Headed up the coast then into the highlands via lots of twisties... Then home. Couple hundred kms, very sore afterwards!
T: Lot 33. Couple of V4 warm ups then worked a V7. Long problem, 16 moves for me. I am so fucking close to this. Just haven't stuck the crux move out right from the big sloper but I very nearly have stuck it. Will go very, very soon! Very pleased to have made this progress. Didn't feel anywhere near last time I tried it (4 months ago maybe).
F: Couple hours ride with Dad. Out west to a decent pub, then home the same route. Fun fun. Rained on the way home. Wet wet. Work late.
S: Work late.
S: Quick blast out on the bike to get some photos at Lot 33 for new guidebook that a mate is doing (not far off being done!). Then work for a few hours.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Thanks Jack

M.
T. Knocked planned trip to Malham on head due to dire conditions reportsand went to eatswood insteadSurprisingly cold in wind. Did ok on Reverse but well off my best. Felt busted.
W.
T.
F. Malham .with Adam Late start to avoid sun. Oak dry.Good conditions. Felt below par and unconfident Seemed to take ages to warm into it and ended up having 4 or 5 endpoints going for horn and nearly holding it on last go then after a short rest leading relatively easily to top
S. Drive to Font
S. Buthiers with Joe and boys in morning. Bit hungover. Lovely weather. Reopened account on Lady Big Claque and messed about on easier stuff

kind of regretting not having kept my had in withtraining but had a good run of actual climbing. Oak feels so close but also far away  :-\ lot on elsewhere with a substantial extension at home and a renovation of a student property to manage.As well as a work assignment Hopefully a top off of power in Font will give me boost I need to finish Oak off

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
Knee 90%. Elbow 75%. Another week of relatively easy stuff, falling as little as possible and trying not to aggrevate the elbow.

Monday/ Tuesday - Nothing
Wednesday - Indoors, strangely hard work, amazing how quickly the strength goes after a few recovery weeks.
Thursday - Nothing
Friday - Off work. Go back to check out the new circuits at Apremonts Dames. I probably shouldn't over publicise this sort of stuff, but since it's right near  the car park...

Started on the orange circuit, lovely unpolished rock, imagine all those classic circuits and what they were like 30/40 years ago. The problems are fairly short, so I moved onto some blues which seemed fairly easy, again probably due to lack of polish. Really nice spot, nice bit of shade and nice flat landings, recommended for a warm up session. There's also a black circuit that looks interesting. Did 20 or so problems and then the knee said 'go home' so I did. Shame the holds on just about every problem are already caked in chalk.

Saturday - Not much, cooked Thai.
Sunday - Had big plans to take the train and investigate some newish circuits at Rocher du Chatillon but I couldn't face the 2h journey, 3 sessions in 5 days would be pushing it at the moment too. Not feeling too guilty sitting on the balcony with a glass of wine.


mindfull

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 174
  • Karma: +2/-1
    • Blog
66kg  :punk:

Mo:rest

Tu: PE(body weight)
5x5pullups/20pushups

We: PO(boulder)
7x3(warmup)
2x4(3different ways)
2x5(3dw)
1x6a(3dw)
2x5(3dw)
1x4(3dw)

Th: EN(body weight)
25x1pullup/5pushups without rest

Fr:rest

Sa: Technique
Initiation of a friend. For me 5c/,6a/,6b\,6a\

S: PO(body weight)
10x1pullup with lockof 7sec
10x5pushup with lockof 5 sec

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
Given the grades you're climbing it seems totally nuts to me that you're doing a 3:2 ratio of directed exercises to actually climbing.

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
STG (Easter): 6c+ redpoint  :dance1:
MTG (Summer) Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
    (Autumn) 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

A good start to the Frankenjura season, although we also learn that the ability to redpoint bouldery, well protected 6c+'s and the ability to onsight pumpy, runout 6b's are not the same thing and one can have one but not the other.

M:   Bouldering, Thalkirchen. A dozen easy warm-up problems then working my proj. Did the crux for the first time, yyfy. 4 sets of one & two finger system board exercises.
T:
W: Bike to & from work ca 25km
T: Half hour knee physio, mobility, stretching
F:
S: Climbing: start of Frankenjura Season, yay! Quickly discovered though that my leading head needs a little work before I can cope with the classic 'jura combination of steepness and somewhat runout bolting. An attempt on a stunning-looking 6b at Ruine Leienfels turned into a falling practice session, mostly voluntary.
S: Frankenjura. Warmed up with a few VI's on the Hartensteiner Wand to get my head a little more in gear, apparently successfully because in the afternoon I redpointed two of my VIII- (6c+) projects from last year. YYFY. One of them blatantly soft though, so a good thing it wasn't my first.

kelvin

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1293
  • Karma: +60/-1
Thanks Jack.

Muenchener - top weekend!

No days off this week and I'm knackered *excuse alert In fact been at work 12 days in a row now  :whip:

Mon - Rest as fingers tired.
Tue - Routes. Decided to lead all these sandbag slab routes... I actually walked out to the van, got some masking tape and wrote sandbag on it - then proceeded to stick it on the grade chart for one of the 5s. So did a 5+ x2, 5, 5+ (6a), 5 (6a+) 2nd 6b, 5+ and then a 6a+ which I fell off a lot working out the crux. Oh, and something else. Wiped out.
Wed - Warmed up on V0/1 and then did the V2 under the roof clean. Home shattered.
Thu - Tired.
Fri - Helped a mate move and then beer.
Sat - Worked.
Sun - Worked but went and bashed out some V0/1/2 problems and did some two finger repeaters.

Pleased to manage the V2 under the roof. It's the first problem I've done under there since I tore my medial ligament doing a V3 over a year back. The physio banned me from drop knees but had to do a couple, I'm just not strong enough to campus.

Also pleased to manage the F5 on the slab... I mean, it included an Eng tech hard 5b/soft 5c move that wouldn't normally be found on a slab. So many people have complained about this particular route, so it was nice to actually see what they were on about.

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3633
  • Karma: +199/-3
Back in as I've done some exercise this week!


Goal: Font 7b


M - high intensity class at gym, different to my usual Tues lunchtime one - this was totally nails!
T - played 5-a-side at lunch with work, good fun
W- nowt, day off work
T - evening session after work - went to West Chevin and had a great time pottering round doing the 6s round Brownian Motion. Opened account on Eat The Light but found it really hard
F - Nowt
S - looking after Una, so took her to the crag for the first time - back to West Chevin. She wasn't massively keen but did settle down and slept while I did a bit, including dropping Eat The Light (I'd been missing out obvious good holds thinking they were "out") from the finishing jug!
S - took nieces to The Depot for the afternoon, didn't do much myself but had a good potter


Really glad to get outdoor for the first time since Una's birth, and happy that she's been to the crag aged 9 weeks!


Will be back for Eat The Light, hoping for a dry / cool opportunity either pre or post work some time this week.



Luke Owens

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
Monday: Rest

Tuesday: Ended the siege on Firestarter. Went 2nd go of the evening. All the boosh crew were out, good psyche!

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Back at Dinbren, great to be back! 2 x 6b warm up, dogged up When Saturday Comes (7c), feel stronger on the crux than last year and worked out a shorties way of doing the crux consistently. Going to stick at it for my first 7c.

Also got reacquainted with some routes, Technicolor Yawn and Big Mouth Strikes Again. Would like to get Technicolour wired as it's a good training route.

Friday: Lunch Gym Session:

12 Wide Grip Pull Ups

Deadhangs
3 x 10sec (Half crimp 30mm edge)
5 x 10sec (Half crimp first joint edge)

3 x 10 Front Dumbbell Raises
2 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises

Saturday: Voie Normale bloc at Craig Y Llyn.

Repeated Voie Normale Stand (6B+) and the arete (6B+). Felt stronger than before on the problems but couldn't figure out the beta for one move on the sit start to Voie Normale. Did all the moves on "Alice" (7A) but couldn't link it. Repeated Voie Normale Stand until I couldn't feel my arms...

Sunday: Rest

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3078
  • Karma: +149/-5
84.6Kg

M -
T - F/board. Failed on 6 on front 3, didn't attempt back 3 as flapper. 3 x 6 x 7 on 15mm edge with 5 or 6 mins rest. Felt weak again!
W -
T - 1st trip to Tor of the year. Tried Powerhumps hard way, doing the crux a couple of times. Dropped last move of Staminaband twice, did first half of Ben's a few times by lantern.
F - Lunch. 4 x 10 mins on, 5 mins off across main wall, v low intensity, mild pump.
S -
S - Tor, early windy and cold. Slow warm up, worked sections, then fired Staminaband first go. Tried PH hard way again, had quick look at Converter and middle section of Strict Blueband. Finished on P/band.

Climbing outside! Chuffed to do Staminaband (1st time in 11 years  :2thumbsup:), but still sooo weak on the crimpy stuff. Rubicon and Anston next wk hopefully. Back still sore so need to be careful...

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 786
  • Karma: +93/-2
Aims for April
Endurance sessions twice a week. 2/2
7c on Biscuit Circuit Board. - Getting close
Sport climbing once - the trad at beeston almost counts..
E4/5 in Pembroke.

Mon -
Tue - Biscuit - Strength
Did a few Hendrix up to V6, inc lots of fingery stuff. Tried some harder.

Eve - Run 3 miles.
Wed - Biscuit -
A few hardish problems, then whole yellow V2-4 circuit.
Thu - Biscuit
Working 7c circuit. Managed it in overlapping halves. And linked from move 8 to the finish (move 28).
Fri - Rest - meant to go climbing but slept in.
Sat - Rest
Sun - Beeston Tor.
Pocket Symphony E1 to warm up - great climbing.
Went round for partner to do Black Grub, I forgot my climbing shoes, so he graciously did the VS so i wouldn't have a nightmare seconding. VS in trainers, ledgy so not much difference in difficulty.

Went back round for Black Grub, ended up doing Majolica E3 5c, got a bit blinkered first go up and rested on thread, got straight back on and realised which way it actually went. Did it easily second go from floor.

Then onsighted Black Grub, the classic E3(french 6c on threads), as well, like being in Ceuse. Felt nice and easy.

Would have liked to do The Beest as well, but realised it was late and had to get back to London.

Good week - feel like fitness is coming. Looking forward to 4 days in Pembroke this weekend.

Evil

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 129
  • Karma: +6/-0

M - Cycling 16 miles total, evening fingerboarding and elbow exercises.
T - Cycling 16 miles total, evening routes - super busy night at the wall, just doing whatever was free really. 6a+, 6a+, 6a (new), 6b, 7a+(top rope, couldn't do top section from last clip), 6c (tried this, but stuck on one little section), 6b+ (new), 6c+ (top rope, had to work out top part as it was a comp route getting harder towards the top). Felt like I was having to force it a lot, not climbing well.
W - Cycling 27 miles total. Tired.
T - Cycling 16 miles total, few pullups in the evening.
F - morning bodyweight/dumbell circuit thing, afternoon assembling Ikea furniture (argh), evening bouldering - new set. Really nice problems with a lot of things I could do after a few tries. Got a V5, and a couple of V4s, warmed up with some easier problems which were all really good, though I did ignore a few I didn't like the look of for now...
S - Running - 4.5k with dog (27:27). Also some walking, then bouldering. Spent quite a long time on a V4 that I had tried briefly on Friday. Took me a while to get.
S - Walked 7.5 miles. Felt tired, but climbed anyway. Did first half of long roof V5, but did not have the beans to try the next few moves. Got on another V5 which I'd like to be able to do, but I think some of the moves are just a bit too far. It'll be up for a few weeks though, so might have another go. Finished with a little bit on the board and campussing.

Felt pretty tired this week, but climbed quite well on Friday/Saturday.

Dexter

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 483
  • Karma: +19/-0
M: Fingerboarding
T: Was meant to have a wall session but couldn't
W: Nowt
T: Wall session, went ok nothing amazing
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Rubicon got 1 move on bigger belly and found a way to get to the final jug which shoukld work so think this will be my new project.

Therefore

STG: bigger belly (hopefully stg not ltg)
dunno about MTG or LTG I'll see how this goes so MTG and LTG get stronger

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5028
  • Karma: +141/-13
Mon. Bike 1 hour intervals 5 mins 1 min off.
Tue. Board worked a couple of projects, didn't get up much.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board worked and did a couple of new things i sussed during the session. repeated a few things first go that when first done took several sessions.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Kinder. Pagoda  freezing struggled to warm up, played on Bonjoys problem but due to not taking a description or topo. We didn't start low enough, partly cos the break was full of munge and we failed to top out due to more munge and scrittle.
Went across to Huffys roof, even colder and windier. Didn't need a spotter due to the mats levitating up underneath you. Did the 6c starting a move lower than in the video and did a right hand version to this. Tried the arete briefly but as I felt unable to take off my down jacket, didn't try very hard. Walked across to the Woolpacks pulled on some scrittle, the walked down in the rain. Knackered.
Sun. Sore back and legs took a long while to get round to doing anything. Bike 56 miles 3hrs 15 mins windy as shit.
Kinder was not a good choice given the weather but its worth a visit for Huffys roof, despite the hours walk in.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
STG - Don’t get injured; 2 sessions a week with a rope on, emphasis on endurance.
MTG - LH&F BHAG in Yosemite this June (E5 OS this summer).
LTG - LH&F BHAGs in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

73.7kg  :whip:


A BOGOF entry, as usual a sign of tweakage. I’ve been too impatient on three separate occasions and failed to meet either STG this month. Hopefully the elbow will have settled sufficiently for the coming long weekend at Pembroke. I really must remember this is all about Yosemite in June.

217
M - Step-ups, shoulder stability.
T - Shoulder stability
W - Step-ups
T - Step-ups, shoulder stability.
F -
S - Step-ups.
S - Shoulder stability. Tree-climbing with the lad. Hill circuits: ~750m of ascent.

216
M - Sick, hurty elbow
T - Sick, hurty elbow
W  - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Very gentle Westway session with the DFB. 10 x ≤5+
F - Hurty elbow
S - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Step-ups, shoulder stability stuff

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
STG- Normal middle fingers.
2014 goals- 20 19 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Pressed for time but wanting to halt recent paucity of mid-week training so did some pull-ups and "ice-cream makers".

T- Rest.

W- Notts Wall. Climbed quite well but felt a bit inhibited by belayer who's far more interested in spraying beta at climbers on other routes than watching the guy he's belaying  ::). 7 or so leads up to 6c plus some auto-belay.

T- Rest.

F- Rest.

S- Stanage Popular. Not so popular due to baltic gale blowing right at the crag- great conditions on the rock though. Mates baled after a few routes but I stuck it out and soloed 'til the rain came. Tried to do as much offwidth/ chimney business as possible. 23 pitches in total.

S- Gardom's. Led a handful of routes then got on Moyer's Buttress. Wasn't sure how hard it was since the loss of the block (never been on it before) and bailed from the crux after persuading myself it was now nails. Later met some climbers who had heard it's about the same grade- should really have just gone for it. Finished the day on some offwidth slot-shuffling thing that sprained my neck and wrecked my softshell.

Just another successful week in the life of a grit hero!  :lol:

For some reason my fingers are now stiffer than they have been for ages. I can only assume this is due to increasing volume of actual climbing, 'cos I've hardly been bearing down on crimps.

As of now I'm working in Mansfield rather than Nottingham so there's greatly increased potential for evening climbing!  ;D

 

mindfull

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 174
  • Karma: +2/-1
    • Blog
@abbaro:

That's easy to say. I'd love to go al my training evenings climbing, but my current situation is that I only have the opportunity to on wednesdays and weekends. And I would call the 2 or 3 sessions climbing way more intensive than the 30 minutes I spend on the pullup bar and on mats. Maybe more a 6:1 ratio towards climbing.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal