I'd be really interested to watch someone climb an 8b with crap technique, which problem was it?
In answer to the topic. Because it's easy explain how to train strength and it's easy to see and measure the gains. It's hard to correctly explain technique training and it's hard to measure technique gains.....
Watch the three climbers on Bugeleisen (I think this might have prompted Dave's question) or different people in unclesomebody's Font. videos. Crap may be putting it a little strongly but clearly some are moving more efficiently than others
Quote from: duncan on April 11, 2014, 08:51:48 amWatch the three climbers on Bugeleisen (I think this might have prompted Dave's question) or different people in unclesomebody's Font. videos. Crap may be putting it a little strongly but clearly some are moving more efficiently than othersSo how would you rank them in terms of movement then? I see different styles that suit the different climbers.
The internal feedback about body position, breathing, accuracy, momentum, speed of movement etc requires a higher level of awareness than most folk start the sport with, and it takes considerable deliberate practice to develop and exploit it.At least that how it appears to me..
You don't need technique if your strong enough. If you can't keep your feet on anything you just learn to pull harder to compensate. I've two friends who both boulder 8B one has exceptional technique the other has crap technique but is a beast and I'm pretty sure the one with no technique will eventually climb the hardest.
I assume the beast will struggle on 7b slabs?
Quote from: thekettle on April 10, 2014, 09:27:42 pmThe internal feedback about body position, breathing, accuracy, momentum, speed of movement etc requires a higher level of awareness than most folk start the sport with, and it takes considerable deliberate practice to develop and exploit it.At least that how it appears to me.. What about more experience climbers John do you think that it's possible for elite level climbers to improve their technique?
Part of the problem is that it's so hard to pin down what is good technique.
Strength training get you the girls on the beach.
I'm utterly unconvinced by shit like 'quiet feet', since it seems to me like it teaches you to place your feet overly slowly, thus teaching you to climb craply..
It seems to me we all pay lip service to technique but that no one really has a clue how to train it. Ok beginners are told to focus on technique but other a few drills there isn't much information about technique training. Do elite climbers have 'perfect' technique?
However, you don't see many people drilling movements at the climbing wall - that's part of improving technique and isn't embedded in climbing training culture at all.
Pah - its us stick insects that have to use technique to get through those brawn moves you burlier types excel at!('nearly' mentioned long levers....)
Wait till you're married, the lbs will pile on.
Quote from: Sloper on April 11, 2014, 02:09:52 pmWait till you're married, the lbs will pile on.One of those two has already happened.
Quote from: Rocksteady on April 11, 2014, 12:51:07 pmHowever, you don't see many people drilling movements at the climbing wall - that's part of improving technique and isn't embedded in climbing training culture at all. For me this would come in the sessions of working hard problems in the wall or on the board. If you do them in a session or two, you haven't got any stronger, but you have learnt the movement required for that particular climb and hopefully added it to your move database for future reference.
Doing the same problems 3 times per week every week for months on end is not technique training, it's ego massaging or warming up. Don't kid yourself.
On a related note: I know a guy who spent 6 months climbing on two routes. One of them the warmup (always the same route) and the other his project. After trying his project 3 times, 3 days a week, for half a year he managed to send the route, his first 8a (quite impressive for a 50 year old who started climbing when 45 and runs his own company as well). The week after he went to Kalymnos and promptly failed to red-point 7as.Nothing but closed-loop skills.
That's what training is to me, helping you to try and achieve a goal. The rest is just fucking about.