UKBouldering.com

[Pure Now][E9 6c][Millstone] (Read 2417 times)

Tommy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 814
  • Karma: +97/-1
[Pure Now][E9 6c][Millstone]
April 07, 2014, 01:18:48 pm
Climbs the wall right of Master's Edge by breaking out rightwards above the shot holes. Unfortunately an escapable climb as once you have finished the crux you can traverse back left into the very easy finish of Master's. If you want a mellow solo though, just push on up the wall above as it adds little to the grade but improves the "out there" experience.

To access the wall climbing, place the gear in Master's and do the move above where you're stood up on some smears. Commit rightwards and upwards into some funky moves on friable rock. On the big rock over, please be careful of the foothold as it's on the verge of crumbling. 8a-ish to top rope the line.

Video below to give beta and information on why I choose to do the route. A king line it ain't!

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/one-mistake-on-this-route-will-kill-you-%7C-dont-expect-anything-normal-with-tom-randall-ep-3/275596

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1686
  • Karma: +62/-1
#1 Re: [Pure Now][E9 6c][Millstone]
April 07, 2014, 06:21:52 pm
Fuck that looks scary! Great effort!

Loved the camera following the rope down to an optimistic stack of pads haha!!!

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
#2 Re: [Pure Now][E9 6c][Millstone]
April 07, 2014, 06:31:34 pm
Nice one! and nice film GvG

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal