[Schnell]

I've a slightly knackered a1 at the moment. The usual regimen of only open-handed climbing doesn't appear to be working as well as I might expect. Usually if I've a tweaked a2 if I climb open-handed it causes absolutely no tenderness/soreness at the injury site., whereas in this case it appears to be hindering recovery a bit. For background info it's a fairly minor tear, it's only properly sore if I really poke around in there and doesn't hurt when climbing.

I wonder if the relationship between crimping and a1 pulleys is different to other pulleys, ie whether because the a1 is sort of on the palm of the hand does it mean slopers/open handing affect it like crimping affects the other pulleys. Anyone have any knowledge on this? No one seems to injure their a1 much so there's not much written about it.

[slackline]

Have you read all of the linked articles from the "Injuries : Fingers  - Links" section of the UKB Wiki?

[Schnell]

Yep, nothing about A1s specifically, basically I'm wondering if all the a2 advice is totally applicable or not.

[Sasquatch]

I just posted a question on the Phsio Q&A thread regarding the A1 pulley asking the same question.  I'm now three weeks out and should be looking to start climbing on it again, so it should be time.

From a basic physics perspective, I would guess that open handing small holds is probably less impact on the A1, but large full hand or even full finger length slopers are likely to be rough on itas they engage that pulley.

Have you read all of the linked articles from the "Injuries : Fingers  - Links" section of the UKB Wiki?

Reading the articles indicates the A1's rarely ever go, but there's very little discussion on the differences.  Likely due to the rarity.

[Schnell]

I just posted a question on the Phsio Q&A thread regarding the A1 pulley asking the same question.  I'm now three weeks out and should be looking to start climbing on it again, so it should be time.

From a basic physics perspective, I would guess that open handing small holds is probably less impact on the A1, but large full hand or even full finger length slopers are likely to be rough on itas they engage that pulley.

Great, I'll be interested to see what the physioclinic response is. Yeah basically from having a look at my hand I started to wonder if the slopers were a a bad idea and it has been backed up by my recovery experience.

[bigironhorse]

How sure are you that it's an A1? If open handed climbing is causing issue it may be a lumbrical (the long tendon connecting fingers and forearm muscles). The treatment is the same but I'd avoid climbing if its causing discomfort.

[Schnell]

How sure are you that it's an A1? If open handed climbing is causing issue it may be a lumbrical (the long tendon connecting fingers and forearm muscles). The treatment is the same but I'd avoid climbing if its causing discomfort.

Definitely not, although I do have one of them too at the moment on the same hand ring finger as a result of too much openhanding to compensate for not being able to crimp.

[catbreath]

Dumb question, but if you've got tenderness around a pulley, but it doesn't hurt at all climbing open or crimp, can it still be a partial tear/strain? It just seems wierd that you can have an injury caused by a certain kind of load and then apply that load again without it hurting!

Reason I ask is that I had exactly what Schnell is talking about for months last year where it was painful to squeeze the pulley against the bone, but didn't hurt at all when climbing (although it was around A2, not A1) and even after weeks of total rest it wouldn't really ease up. I assumed it was a tear but then got shown how to do proper finger/wrist stretches and started regularly doing them before and after climbing, and after the second session the tenderness had *completely* disappeared, and hasn't come back since...so it was probably just tightness...which is much nicer to have!

[Schnell]

I assumed it was a tear but then got shown how to do proper finger/wrist stretches and started regularly doing them before and after climbing, and after the second session the tenderness had *completely* disappeared

Tell us more about these stretches? They sound like total magic.

[bigironhorse]

If the pain has come on gradually it is likely it is just from overuse. If you had ruptured the pulley whilst pulling hard you normally feel/hear it. Time off + iceing etc.

It's worth reading old threads with similar topics as most of your questions have probably been answered before. Also check out climbinginjuries.com and Dave Mcleod's blog. There is a lot of anecdotal advice about finger injuries out there.

[catbreath]

Stretches were basically this but holding each one for 45-60 seconds on the advice of the osteo, before and after every climb. I was already doing arm/shoulder/legs/whatever stretches but for some reason neglected my fingers.

Painful pullies, achey knuckles, tight forearms and elbow niggles all solved with one trick! It is anecdotal advice from a noob but hope it helps