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UKB Power Club Week 214 Mon 17th - Sun 23rd Mar (Read 8277 times)

shark

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11.3-5

M.
T. Malham. Up with Paul Reeve, Andy Cave and Steve. Drizzly, cold and very windy. TRed Appetite as far as last clip - fingers were frozen and felt a bit nauseous. Got on Oak played around and put clips in. Thereafter consistently went ground to undercuts generally setting up or going for throw about 5 or 6 times. Best go (after walking round cove ) I actually got horn but thumb was wrong and slipped off it. Last go got to set up but hand greased off intermediate sidepull. Sat on bolt then managed to link from big undercut to top - so effectively overlapping halves with a rest. Alex Megos didnt onsight it. Just saying.
W.  Eve. Fingerboard. Good session on fingerboard ending with intermittent hangs
T.
F.  Malham.  Busy for a friday. Went up with Paul Andy Cave and Adam Harrison. Full of optimism after Tuesday. Two goes to touching the horn. Hoped for much better. Burnt out at end and couldn't do a link of the top half. Maybe shouldn't have trained on weds
S.
S. AM. Started a fingerboard session but rubbish on warmup so stopped.

Seem to have plateaued on the Oak or dug myself into a hole of poor recovery - hopefully the latter. Back to Malham on tuesday. Resting again tomorrow.

fried

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Monday - Saturday - Knee hurts, so no indoor session. I also have a touch of Golfer's, so I can't even go and do some weights. Pissed off.

Sunday - Risk the yellow circuit at Rocher des potets, falling is not an option. Good fun, even started the orange then the rain started. Not sure if it helped my knee or not (I'll see tomorrow), but the elbow always feels better after an easy session.

Muenchener

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STG (Easter): 6c+ redpoint
MTG (Summer) Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
    (Autumn) 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   
T: Knee physio exercises & a few sets of press-ups
W:
T: Knee physio exercises, kettlebell TGUs, alpine approach training 35 minutes step-ups w/12kg rucksack
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. A dozen easy boulder problems to warm up, 5 sets asymmetric monos on fingerboard, half a dozen laps on PE circuits
S:
S: Wall, Gilching. Routes 5b 6b 6b 5b 6c+ (proj) 6b+ 5b. Good session. Found the moves ok on the 6c+; I'm lacking confidence and mental stamina more than physical endurance, I think.

kelvin

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Cheers Shark

Mon - rest
Tue - Belayed Mr Fry on his new routes on the comp wall. Then cruised the 5+ easily, told him it was a 5 but he's still made it a 5+... maybe I'm improving. Rubbish on the 6a but took a big fall (sorted head), then got on the new 6b. Thuggy. Bouldered for a while, then did foot on campus shizzle.
Wed - rest
Thu - Froggatt for the first time. Onsighted a HVD. HVS, 3 Pebble Slab (what grade  :yawn:) and soloed a VDiff. 2nded Tody's Wall, some E1 and an E3 all clean. Rained off at 2pm so went to the Climbing Works till 8pm. Was battered by the end.
Fri - Stanage. Onsighted some hideous HS thing and it was so windy that we sacked it off.
Sat - Boulder Room. Worked on steep stuff for a change V2/3. Tried a V4 and a V6. Felt good actually. Campus rail, foot on shizzle, pullups.
Sun - Boulder room. Pretty knackered but worked the V6 and a V3.

Head was back in the game on Thu - really enjoyed Froggatt but a pattern is emerging when it comes to onsighting, always slabs. Over the groundfall tho. Head was nicely quiet again.

Climbing Works was alright too. Despite being a bit deflated at being rained off outside, the problems were pretty funky at times. Flashed all the greens, generally one move short of this on the blacks and just had a play at some other stuff.

Really enjoying the gritstone this year.

JackAus

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STG: Fingers, V7.
MTG: DWS Project (Moved here as its unlikely to be DWS weather for a while...)
LTG: V11 in a session.

M: Skin recovery, stretching. Work late.
T: Skin recovery, light core. Work late.
W: Skin recovery. Work early. Drive to Canberra in evening.
T: Check out newish crag. Everything is chipped and glued. Tried a V7. Lost interest and got angry.
F: Pierce's Creek. Very pretty spot amongst the pine trees. Did a couple easy things then had a go at a big V5 arete. Brilliant problem but scary committing move near the top made me back off a few times aswell as take a brilliant fall from 5m... Will be back for it. Drive home.
S: Sleep in. Stretching. Work late.
S: New area. Cleaned and tried 5 new lines. Got one of them. Repeated a bunch of easy stuff. Work in arvo.

Didn't climb much this week, skin was fooked from last Sunday. I don't seem to get on too well on granite, I just can't crimp very well...

EdGowSmith

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7A:    8/50
7A+:  5/40
7B:    1/30 :D
7B+:  0/20
7C:    0/10

Stretches: 4/4

Mon: Rest day. Stretches.
Tues: Session at the Bunker. Getting pretty close on a systems board problem I had labelled as "nails".
Wed: Session at the Bunker. Core, press-ups, fingerboarding etc.
Thurs: Session at the Bunker. Systems board. Stretches.
Fri: Rest day. Stretches.
Sat: 4 hours at Tintagel North. Awesome location. The problem I wanted to try the most, Kids, was no longer doable, so instead pottered about on some other things. Flashed a 7A, did some board-style climbing and then tried some of the moves on a 7C+. Fingerboarding and pull-ups in the evening .
Sun: Long session at Hound Tor. Got a soft 7B first go despite struggling on it last year, then did a supposed 7A+ that was more like soft 7A, and then spent a while working a hard 7C. Managed it from the second move with little fuss, and then came super close to sticking the first move. So so so psyched! Feels great not being injured and getting noticeably stronger ;D Stretches.

Psyched to train more ;D

mindfull

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Still injured :-( Yet another 5 days of rest. Hopefully recoverd enough next friday for a first decent  session next friday.

T_B

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84.9Kg

M - Lunch: Board bouldering- making up a Press Kneeling start problem. P.M. 280 leg raises.
T - P.M. Repeaters. 35 mins front 3 6 x 7 (only just), back 3 felt tweaky on wrist. 2 x 6 x 7 on 15mm with 3.5 mins rest. Some pull ups. 30 press ups.
W - P.M. Campus board, did 1-4-7 on both arms pretty quickly. Motherboard problems.
T - 25 mins AeroCap at lunch cut short by meetings.
F - 4 x 10 mins with 5 mins rest AeroCap. 115 leg pulls.
S - Rubicon - u/cut on Caviar wet so tried Zeke. Couldn't do pull left to crimp or move from crimp. Freezing cold, so bouldered. Did sloper match a few times (starting with r hand on it), with best effort getting to far right edge of kneeling start. Shoulders tired so didn't get far on the kneeling, but slight progress.
S - Rest

JohnM

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65.8 kg

STG: Fisheye (Oliana)
MTG: Indian Summer (Kilnsey), hard mountain trad.
LTG: Hard multipitch sport/trad + big wall

After a good long weekend in Spain I was really psyched to get back to training this week but took three rest days to fully recover before getting back into it.  Alas, it turned out to be a pretty rubbish week whereby each session was either poor quality or I didn't complete it.  I did some running this week for the first time in a year and the muscle soreness I got all the way up my legs was horrible!

Mon - Sports massage (painful) + rest
Tues - 5 km run + rest
Wed - 5 km run + rest
Thurs - AM: 7c+ circuit into Fisheye crux.  Completed once out of three attempts.  5 attempts holding crux move static - tried once and gave up.  5 times crux boulder problem on the minute - once then gave up.  No power this session and my arms just gave up on me which was annoying as I'd had three rest days.  PM: 4x4s.  Started off well with a set of 7c,7b+,7b,7a+ then a set of 4 x 7b+ and then I hit the wall and completely burned out.
Fri - Attempted 80 move circuits.  Got half way round one but my skin was so sore it felt like someone was sticking needles into my tips and segs.  Gave up, a waste of time.
Sat - Rest and visiting non climbing friend resulted in too much red wine consumption.
Sun - Mild hangover and low motivation.  A session on the board.  Not too bad but have gone slightly backwards here.  A decent set on the systems board 7 x 20 moves and some pull ups + static locks.  Session terminated early due to late start and girlfriend pressure to spend time with her especially after I jibbed her off for training on Friday night and visiting mate on Saturday! 

Hopefully this week will be better!   

lagerstarfish

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Seem to have plateaued on the Oak or dug myself into a hole of poor recovery

a ladder could be used for both climbing out of a hole and rising above a plateau

just saying

Dolly

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M ill
T beastmaker
W Gym core and aerobic including another 5 min run.
T Shed. Ace
F
S cleaning then Stump Hole Cavern as its rainfproof. I love this sort of problem. Didn't manage to do it but hopefully next time
S Core


Knee slightly better. Experimenting with different amounts of walking and physio to see how it changes it. Still reading the book I mentioned last week in search of enlightenment.

Duncan Disorderly

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Goals: Get over ice, arse, slippage debacle... Not be too shit in Font at Easter.

M: Boulder@The Works - Good session, despatched nuff wasps...
T: Nowt
W: 30ish miles on bike - Windy!
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Walk around Derwent with 20 odd kids...
S: Assisted 1 armers on beam.. (felt the need to do something while on woodcraft camp with the boy).

Still taking it easy as don't want the coxyx issue to not be sorted before Font but it's generally moving in the right direction - busy with the boy on the weekend so didn't get much else done either...

This week - more....

:D

cheque

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STG- Normal middle fingers
2014 goals-20 19 E points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Walk through the city

T- Walk through the city

W- Walk through the city

T- Notts Depot. Warmed up on circuit board and did surprisingly well so set about working 7a circuit I'd not tried before. Did it in two overlapping sections first try so got on redpoint. Had about 7 decent goes, getting to 4 moves from the end twice. First of these I felt pumped in my arms but on the second I felt more powered-out in my core. Flashed all the blue (V1-V3) problems that I could in the remaining time but I had to try on them all after circuit exertions- a while since I've felt like this and it felt good!

S- Rest.

S- Walk around Matlock area. Visited Pic Tor which looks like a nice place to visit when I can crimp again. Got psyched looking at and walking above High Tor too.

Very little training this week  :spank: My girlfriend's had a cast on her arm all week so time has been spent supporting her.

Encouraged by my performance on Thursday though-  it seems I've gone up a level in the "moves are easy enough to not get you pumped" stakes, which is exactly what I've been trying to train all winter  :strongbench:. All but about 4 holds on the 7a would have been no-gos in January/ February too, so good news on that front. I need to start stretching more though as I've lost it in that aspect a bit.

Wood FT

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S- Walk around Matlock area. Visited Pic Tor which looks like a nice place to visit when I can crimp again. Got psyched looking at and walking above High Tor too.


Pic tor is a great little crag. A bit dirty at the moment, but should clean up nicely with good weather as I think the BMC did some vegetation clearing during guidebook checking. The routes I've done felt finger friendly, pockets mainly.


shark

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Seem to have plateaued on the Oak or dug myself into a hole of poor recovery

a ladder could be used for both climbing out of a hole and rising above a plateau

just saying

Is this a metaphorical ladder of patience and performance enhancing drugs

csl

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Goals for March

Climb 3x a week 4/3
1x session a week on a rope. 1/1
2x outside 1/2
7b/E4/7A+ - E3...

Stay under 75kg. - under 74 this week.

Goals for Winter

V8/7B indoors/ Get stronger on Boulders
Book a sport trip. Done.

Mon- Biscuit - Did lots of left over Hendrix V4-6's. Then 3x3's on the circuit board.
Tue- Rest
Wed- Biscuit - Did a few of the new White V5-7 circuit. Then some slab problems up to V5.
Thu- Biscuit - 2 more V6 Whites and lots of the purples up to V5.
Fri- Rest
Sat- Rest
Sun- Boulder Ruckle. Lightening Wall - 2nd. Elysium - Lead. Bottomless Buttress - 2nd. Ocean Boulevard - Lead.
Found Ocean Boulevard very easy, happy to be at E3 for first real trad day of the year.

Need to get on the stamina training then come back for the E5's on this wall, so good!


lagerstarfish

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Seem to have plateaued on the Oak or dug myself into a hole of poor recovery

a ladder could be used for both climbing out of a hole and rising above a plateau

just saying

Is this a metaphorical ladder of patience and performance enhancing drugs

no, an actual ladder made out of aluminium with rungs at even intervals along its length

shark

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Seem to have plateaued on the Oak or dug myself into a hole of poor recovery

a ladder could be used for both climbing out of a hole and rising above a plateau

just saying

Is this a metaphorical ladder of patience and performance enhancing drugs

no, an actual ladder made out of aluminium with rungs at even intervals along its length

Is the hole an absence of form that we have endowed with meaning and the plateau the banality of existence the dimensions of which we can peer past using the third eye?

John Gillott

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You may feel like you've plateaued Shark, but as far as I can tell you've only just got back on it after your mini WSS siege. You'd need to be failing on the horn move for the next two months before you could declare a plateau with an real conviction.

Dexter

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So having now set up my beastmaker at home I thought I would try and join the power club.
Been trying to do a session each morning in between the missus leaving for work (about 7) and me having to leave (8:30)
I'm hoping this motivates me to keep it up each day

M: Morning fingerboard and core doing assisted one armers (4kg) evening climb on the 45 felt pretty strong
T:  Morning fingerboard and core doing assisted one armers (4kg)
W:  Morning fingerboard and core doing assisted one armers (4kg)
T: Lazy morning  :spank:  evening climb again on the board felt pretty strong
F: Sweet f all
S: Also nothing did some gardening
S: Board session felt a bit knackered (maybe all the gardening)

goals
Get strong
do the ace someday

shark

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You may feel like you've plateaued Shark, but as far as I can tell you've only just got back on it after your mini WSS siege. You'd need to be failing on the horn move for the next two months before you could declare a plateau with an real conviction.

You're right of course. Its been 4 sessions over less than two weeks so far - just feels like a lot longer

duncan

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Fri: tradding outside - felt very unfamiliar.

Sounds very familiar.


STG - Don’t get injured; 2 sessions a week with a rope on, emphasis on endurance.
MTG - LH&F BHAG in Yosemite this June (E5 OS this summer).
LTG - LH&F BHAGs in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

M - Building site fitness-lite
T - Building site fitness-lite, short run
W - Shoulder stability / elbow rehab.
T - Shoulder stability / elbow rehab.
F - Shoulder stability / elbow rehab.
S - Step-ups
S - A deserted Boulder Ruckle with csl. The Met. Office forecast was accurate after applying the Swanage microclimate conversion factor but most people seem to have taken it literally. Sea rather exciting which confined us to Lightning Wall area and Ocean Boulevard wall. Both in excellent condition with no visible changes to either since last Autumn.

Did Lightning Wall, Elysium, Bottomless Buttress. csl looked very steady on Ocean Boulevard. I didn’t get to try this, probably a good thing given elbow was a wee bit sore. Felt quite shaky on trad., didn't trust my comfy shoes or much of my gear, got splashed a bit, climbed in a hail shower, had a stuck rope and miscommunication incident and soloed up The Ramp tying knots in the abseil rope. A good sea-cliff day out.

Not doing so well on the STGs. Elbow tweak and offsping poorly so little training done this week. Plan: ease back into things, Easy Trad. if I can get away or easy plastic routes if I can't.


webbo

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Mon. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Board played on a couple of new things, did one with a dab.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board did both projects from Tuesday, took quite alot of goes to do them. Also did an old project and repeated a few things.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board long mirror session.
Sun. Bike 70.17 miles 4 hours 14 mins. Got caught in a couple of hail storms managed to shelter but riding through 2 inches of slush was rather painful. Probably a bit hypothermic when I got home struggled to get the key in the door and the resulting hot pains as my feet thawed out were a test of manhood.
Diet slipped a bit as well.

nik at work

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STG - Climb outside more
MTG - BM mono one armer
LTG - 8c+ on Autumn Spain trip, yeah right...

M - nothing
T - nothing
W - Went to wall for next round of the boulder league. Did all 12 problems, flashing 10 of them and doing the other two in a couple of goes.
T - Swimming then early night
F - Ill
S - Ill
S - Ill

Not a classic week by any stretch. However I have secured a weekend pass to visit the UK mid April so should be able to address STG to some extent...

Luke Owens

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Pretty bad week overall due to illness, me, the little one and my partner have all been ill since last Tuesday. Still feeling it a week on, it's on my chest and keeping me feeling run down.

Monday: Evening Session:
3 x 20 Degree sloper deadhang (10secs)
5 x 35 Degree sloper deadhang (6secs)

30 Mins Aerocap

Tuesday: Headtorch session at Pantymwyn

Fell off the juggy spike going for the finishing jug on Firestarter (7A) 4 times. Shouldn't be falling off there at all...

Had a bad chesty cough and felt run down suprised to get so close really...!

Wednesday:
ill

Thursday: ill

Friday: ill

Saturday: Felt ill but went out anyway (Bad idea in hindsight)

Cave Session - Had a few goes on Right Wall Traverse (7A), keep falling off half way up the 6B problem at the end.

Came close on The Pillar Start (7A) falling off the last move, not sure how to do it...

Had a quick go on the first couple of moves on the Shothole Start to Left Wall Trav, no progress there.

Went around to Pill Box to try and finish off Where's My Hippo (7A) and got shut down by freezing cold wind. Almost lost my pad to the sea... Called it a day as I felt really ill, got home and felt worse and slept...

Sunday: ill

 

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