[T_B]

I'm trying to structure some training and whilst I appreciate that AeroPow (esp low intensity) is good for recovery, do many people do medium intensity AeroPow the day before a hard bouldering session? Do you find it takes your edge off more/less than, for example, a campus or fingerboard session?

My problem is I want to incorporate 1 AnCap and 1 AeroPow session into 5 days of primarily power + strength training, and then be fresh for one day of bouldering at the weekend. I could just rest of course, but I'm only talking about a short lunch time session on the Friday before a bouldering day on Saturday (morning).

E.g. this week I've done

Monday - AnCap board
Tuesday - 40 mins fingerboard repeaters
Wednesday - Campussing and steep (Works motherboard) bouldering
Thursday - Rest
Friday - Campus or AeroPow?
Saturday - plan to boulder outside

[bendavison]

I assume you mean AeroCap rather than AeroPow? (which isn't good for recovery) And there's no AnPow in your week as far as I can see. Unless you do it outside?

I'd say you're doing too much at the start of the week. Campussing and motherboard 3rd day on is asking for a shit session at best. I don't think the 3 on, 1 off, 2 on structure works all that well, even though its nice always climbing on the same days. At the minute it looks like you've got 3 hard days (ok, 40 mins repeaters isn't that hard, but its intense), then 2 easy days after a rest day. Maybe try:

mon - max hangs (or short repeaters), motherboard (not much if you do repeaters)
tues - ancap
wed - rest
thurs - campus, motherboard
fri - AeroCap (or rest, or short ancap session?)
sat - outdoors or rest
sun - outdoors or rest

[T_B]

...yeah, meant AeroCap.

Thought AnPow was basically the type of bouldering (8 moves) I'm doing on the Motherboard?

OK, so I could basically juggle round the early part of my week. Bit tricky as Tuesdays I can't necessarily get to the wall...but I can see that my week's a bit 'top heavy' - cheers.

[bendavison]

AnPow typically has very short rest so you get powered out. I assumed you were doing regular max bouldering where lots of rest is the norm.

Shame you can't get to the wall tuesday, but should still be possible to avoid the 3rd day on strength work. You could always keep the structure you had previously but switch your bouldering/campus from wed to fri, and do aerocap on wed instead. Which is basically what you were asking originally...  I'll go back to bed...

[T_B]

ah, right. Need to rest less 

I've switched it around a bit as I can do repeaters at home on Tuesdays.

M - Foundry Board - AnCap   
T - Fingerboard repeaters @ home   
W - 
T - Works - Campus + Motherboard   
F - AeroCap + Core/antagonist   
S - Climb outside
S - Rest

[TobyD]

ah, right. Need to rest less 

I've switched it around a bit as I can do repeaters at home on Tuesdays.

M - Foundry Board - AnCap   
T - Fingerboard repeaters @ home   
W - 
T - Works - Campus + Motherboard   
F - AeroCap + Core/antagonist   
S - Climb outside
S - Rest

out of interest what are you doing on the foundry board for Ancap? I tend to mix 6-8 move problems with limited rest; with 25-30 move circuits rests roughly 1.5x climbing time. Just canvassing in the interest of varying sessions a bit more.

[T_B]

Just a 15 move mini circ with 2 mins rest.

In answer to my original question, I did 4 x 10 mins with 5 mins rest in between medium intensity AeroCap  on Fridy lunch time and it didn't seem to have a detrimental affect on bouldering ability come Saturday morning...

[abarro81]

25-30 move circuits rests roughly 1.5x climbing time. Just canvassing in the interest of varying sessions a bit more.

That's not ancap, it's more like aero pow.

[abarro81]

(When not injured) I usually just set long problems of 12-15 moves. You could try doing 2 problems back to back instead with no rest too. Should take 30-40s ish, so ~10 moves may work better for you given the pace of your climbing.

[Three Nine]

Toby you numpty. Get off that board, get on the wave, or comp wall, or motherboard and train power power power. Anything you do on that board aint training, its just avoiding the issue.

[Doylo]

Toby you numpty. Get off that board, get on the wave, or comp wall, or motherboard and train power power power. Anything you do on that board aint training, its just avoiding the issue.

Looking forward to your training articles in the mags when Gresham retires.

[petejh]

Who'd retire from a cash cow for life - dead man's shoes!

[Three Nine]

Toby you numpty. Get off that board, get on the wave, or comp wall, or motherboard and train power power power. Anything you do on that board aint training, its just avoiding the issue.

Looking forward to your training articles in the mags when Gresham retires.

I'd put you on a tailored programme involving a ton of mancap. Its an energy system you can only train in Rhyl.

[Doylo]

ManCap! I like it!

[Jaspersharpe]

Doylo's had so much mancap over the years he can barely walk.

[Wood FT]

[Three Nine]

You know if you do ramcap Guy, you end up with a massive head?

[TobyD]

Toby you numpty. Get off that board, get on the wave, or comp wall, or motherboard and train power power power. Anything you do on that board aint training, its just avoiding the issue.

I have no doubt that if my goals were exactly the same as yours then you would be entirely right. As it is you are probably only 50% right. 

[Three Nine]

You can of course do whatever you like, but i'm pretty sure our goals overlap significantly - do sport routes (the longer and easier the moves the better). However, you do seem to exhibit Simon Lee like levels of delusion when you go round and round the board all the time (which you're very good at), with very occasional concessions to improving your ability to do hard moves, use any degree of dynamic technique etc. (which you're very bad at). 

People seem to get really touchy whenever things like this are pointed out, which is silly I think, but there you go. Its not a criticism of someone's value as a person, just of what they do in training! I pick on you lots because you are someone with very exaggerated strengths and weaknesses, and who spends the vast majority of their time 'training' their strengths. I could of course keep my gob shut, but I find this sort of thing interesting to think/pontificate about.

I tell Jules I think most of her training is whack (for good reason IMO), and she cheerfully ignores me!

[Three Nine]

And while i'm at it - Toby and Luke:

Eat perhaps 25% more calories per day, and your climbing will improve a ton - have no doubt. I am absolutely convinced of this, as are lots of other people with whom i've discussed it, but perhaps are more sensitive to peoples' feelings and who don't like to say in case its rude. However, if it applied to me, i'd wanna be told again and again.

[Jules L]

Let me see - follow the advice of my coach with 20+ years of experience who has a proven track record training elite athletes and who has produced a stream of notable successes. Or follow your advice Mark. It's such a tricky call. :-)


Enviado desde mi iPhone con Tapatalk

[Three Nine]

I was using you to illustrate the point that I can be critical of your training/your coach, without you taking offence! I hope i'm right in this? The fact that I may know dick all, is surely besides the point?

For example, I think that your training affords little opportunity to work on movement technique, and that this is reflected in your climbing. Accordingly, it is my opinion that certain changes in you/your coach's approach would result in your training going a lot further.

You will doubtless disagree (for many reasons), but hopefully you agree that its not attack on you as a person!

[Luke Owens]

And while i'm at it - Toby and Luke:

Eat perhaps 25% more calories per day, and your climbing will improve a ton - have no doubt. I am absolutely convinced of this, as are lots of other people with whom i've discussed it, but perhaps are more sensitive to peoples' feelings and who don't like to say in case its rude. However, if it applied to me, i'd wanna be told again and again.

Me?

[Wood FT]

not you Luke

[Luke Owens]

not you Luke

Ah... I could probably do with 25% more calories a day though...

[Three Nine]

Sorry, I meant Moose. A man who is currently making Kingy look portly (and Ted is often referred to as Skeletor behind his back..)