Right now I'm avoiding any crimping at all, so I'm climbing only open handed at the wall.
Quote from: Schnell on March 21, 2014, 11:18:16 amRight now I'm avoiding any crimping at all, so I'm climbing only open handed at the wall. Maybe off topic. But I thought the current thinking was that half-crimped (that all fingers on, some a bit bent but no thumb) is the safest (due to being the most active, i.e. not relying on bones/tendons/ligaments to take the strain) grip type.Also the fact that it is active means that it has the most potential for getting stronger.If my fingers are feeling tweaky I'll preference the half-crimp.
What Guy said. It'll be OK. It very much sounds like you've got some minor inflammation and scarring, which you are pissing off by continuing to climb.My advice, which is slightly different to others here.1) Don't rest. At least not for more than a few days. It doesn't sound like you've got serious inflammation. If you haven't, then all rest is doing for you is letting scar tissue build up.2) Reduce volume. Try and avoid endurance training, routes etc. Stop when fresh.3) Open hand only. If it doesn't hurt to open hand I strongly recommend only climbing open hand for a few weeks to months. 4) Climb in control. Deadhanging is perfect for this, allowing you to pull very hard (tendons need load to recover properly) without danger of catching a hold in a bad position. If you must boulder, be static and put weight on holds gradually.5) Cold treatment, massage, stretch. Once a day. Don't go crazy on the massage or you'll just piss it off. read the following for details - http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html6) Get out and smell the flowers. All of the above is dull as shit, so enjoy yourself at the weekend and climb easy, great routes that you've never done. Go somewhere new.