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Boulder problems re-cleaned (Read 95102 times)

Will Hunt

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#75 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
January 23, 2017, 11:12:21 pm
I had a go at cleaning Strange Attractor on the Boathouse Bluff at Eavestone. It's E3 6a or highball 6B in the guide. Looks really special. On abseil I couldn't see it ever being 6B, looked miles harder. It needs time to dry but could be an incredible highball come spring with a little extra work.

Will Hunt

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#76 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
January 24, 2017, 02:15:20 pm
Pic here. It's the obvious groove, finishing direct.


Bonjoy

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#77 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
January 25, 2017, 12:30:44 pm
Always thought this looked good. Has anyone done the groove to the left (looks hard, including the treemauling topout)? Spied this and that arete you mentioned on open proj thread. You may also have spotted a line nearby that I cleaned on a rope, including de-mucking the topout, but couldn't try as was very wet on the day (keen to go back for this).

Will Hunt

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#78 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
January 25, 2017, 01:07:18 pm
Have sent you a PM.

webbo

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#79 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
January 25, 2017, 03:49:01 pm
I have done this. I actually led it with a rope and runners during one of my comebacks, not the current one mind. It might have been clean then as it was around the time Big Dave was developing the place.

SA Chris

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#80 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
January 25, 2017, 06:49:15 pm
Who actually owns Eavestone? A bit of tree cutting would make it an even better place.

Bonjoy

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#81 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 05, 2017, 01:54:49 pm
I've moved the two boulders that spoilt the landing on Master Chef at Millstone back a metre or so. The prob now has a great landing and it's no longer possible to skip hard moves by launching off the block (as per both videoed ascents on peakbouldering.info). Also no excuse not to top out!

Steve R

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#82 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 05, 2017, 10:39:59 pm
Nice one.  On the subject of Masterchef, is the side wall in for right foot like in this vid: ?
Me and a mate did it like Matt in the video some time last year.  Nice moves but felt maybe a bit too easy for 7B? Didn't get very far trying it without the side wall as far as I recall.... 

Bonjoy

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#83 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 05, 2017, 11:07:45 pm
I used the back wall. I think it would feel pretty contrived not using it as your leg naturally flags out towards it. I suspect maybe folk used the backwall question as an excuse to start off the boulder.

mark20

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#84 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 06, 2017, 07:40:51 am
Nice one Jon.
I eliminated the side wall - Take the LH as more of a sidepull and face left, RH sloper, high left foot and spin round onto it catching the arete with the RH. Really cool move

cheque

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#85 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 06, 2017, 09:33:40 am
Nice one Jon.
I eliminated the side wall - Take the LH as more of a sidepull and face left, RH sloper, high left foot and spin round onto it catching the arete with the RH. Really cool move

Master Chef: The Professionals

dave

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#86 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 06, 2017, 09:48:58 am
I think Scouse and I did it starting matched on that edge, pulled up, highish left foothold, rock onto it, then did some weird combo of moves where LH went over right to the arete then there was some footwork to get a high right foot then up from there. Twisty, contorted and shouldery, was a great unusual set of moves. Don't remember using the back wall.

Bonjoy

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#87 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 06, 2017, 09:06:28 pm
From the sequence I did I doubt missing the back wall would make much difference difficulty wise, but it would feel forced, hence thinking it would be pointless to have it as a rule of the problem. Especially as the rule would have to be scrapped for the sitter.

dave

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#88 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 06, 2017, 10:35:59 pm
Have you got any numbers on the sitter?

Bonjoy

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#89 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 07, 2017, 09:22:22 am
No. It's not obvious how you even pull on. Seem to remember it being given 7c+ by the FA. Guess it's only a couple of moves into the stand.

Will Hunt

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#90 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
April 29, 2017, 11:08:54 pm
Treebeard at Sutton Clough has been done today so will be completely clean. It's a king line so well worth coming up for if you live in a different area. Remember to bring a modest trad rack and a rope for the spotter. If either of you falls into the Clough then you're definitely definitely dead. It's that thing that Mark Katz does in This Is Yorkshire. Guide here:
https://unknownstones.com/sutton/

Bonjoy

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#91 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
May 08, 2017, 01:02:56 pm
Brilliant weather for getting weird green probs that never dry done at the moment:
Jamie Lilleman has cleaned up Gibsonitis 7b at Froggatt. It's good quality wide fridge hugging, well worth an evening hit.
Sam Lawson has cleaned up Mansize at Ramshaw. It's had a few ascents and is confirmed as awesome and deffo worth grabbing while it is in condition (it rarely is).

Will Hunt

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#92 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
May 16, 2017, 11:45:48 pm
I dug the dead bracken cornice off Adi's Wall at Baildon Bank. It's a nice 7A with a spooky pebble pulling finish. This is good, as is the neighbouring 7A highball Suggy's Wall which is really really good.
I took some uninspiring pics and put them on instatwat.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BUCrXv6jKwe/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BUKd8UHDgr2/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BUKhc5sjPcU/

Johnny Brown

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#93 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
May 17, 2017, 12:09:49 pm
Nice one Will, these problems (and Baildon generally) saved me during foot-and-mouth.



Quote
Jamie Lilleman has cleaned up Gibsonitis 7b at Froggatt. It's good quality wide fridge hugging, well worth an evening hit.

PS we did this and it was good. 7b may be generous.

Bonjoy

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#94 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
May 17, 2017, 12:35:50 pm
I agree, standard 7a+

mark20

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#95 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
December 16, 2017, 06:54:36 pm
Nine Pebble Slab at Froggatt now cleaned and with flattened landing. Probably want about 3/4 pads and a spot, quality highball 7A. In the woods just to the left of Glass slipper (as you look at the crag)

205Chris

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#96 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
February 24, 2018, 06:44:20 pm
A few of us scrubbed the problem 72 at Cratcliffe today (below Hueco wall).

Both the original and direct probably deserve a little star when clean and can easily be tagged onto a trip to Hueco wall.

We also did them from a lower, logical start on a flat triangular hold as opposed to the pocket mentioned in the guide book. Probably makes it a tad harder, but no overall change in grade.

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#97 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
February 25, 2018, 04:37:56 pm
Cheers Chris   :great: Went down and did 72 early this morning. Been wanting to try this for a while. Pointed a few other folk in that direction so might have had a few ascents today.

Will Hunt

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#98 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
May 16, 2018, 01:24:32 pm
Pic here. It's the obvious groove, finishing direct.



A mate did this recently, so it's obviously climbable now. They did some further de-mossing at the top. They did it with two mats and said it was scrittly, a tad pokey, but OK.

Worth mentioning that the thing to the left which Jon mentioned further up the page has been done:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=474689

dunnyg

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#99 Re: Boulder problems re-cleaned
May 16, 2018, 02:36:06 pm
That guy in the background looks pretty hench, can I sponsor him?

 

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