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Help! (Read 2263 times)

the_dom

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Help!
March 20, 2014, 09:04:53 am
I've been even more quiet than usual on this parrish (not saying much, I know) - mainly because about 5 months ago I completely stopped climbing. I didn't taper it out, I just stopped. I stopped training, I stopped hangboarding, I stopped climbing outdoors. I had some nagging injuries and I just wasn't psyched on it at all. And I've been off climbing ever since, expending my obsessiveness on surfing and trying to run to keep the weight from ballooning. I went as far as to tell me ex-climbing partners that I was out of it for good - and I thought so.

But I've started missing bouldering. I don't miss bouldering around Cape Town - I've done most of the good stuff and I find it hard to get psyched about the scrappy 8s - or even training at the wall. But, at some point in the next year or so, my girlfriend and I are likely to emigrate to Europe (destination TBC) and, honestly, I love bouldering in Font and Swizzy too much to forgo this.

Plus, I love training.

I don't really feel like heading back to the climbing gym for a while (call it the dark horse factor), so my questions for the august members of this parrish are as follows:
  • If I was going to do up to an hour a day of training (bearing in mind that I try to surf once or twice a day, and run 8 to 12kms most days I don't surf), what should I do?
  • How do I build up what I need (finger strength, local forearm endurance, pulling power) in as efficient a manner as I can, without climbing, and in a way that allows me to ease myself back?

What I've started doing over the last week has been a very brief 8 - 12 minute deadhang programme on my 2cm edge - try to hang for 30 secs, rest 90 secs, repeat 4 to 6 times total. Eventually I'll head back to my beastmaker and to 1 arm hangs, but I need some training insights - bearing in mind that I want to come back strong, but I also want to be a bit of a dark horse.

(As a bit of background: In my distant past (i.e. at around age 30), and with a lot of work, I bouldered up to around 8A+/8B but had some injuries and had to slow down training etc. Until I stopped recently, I was bouldering 7Bish consistently, with the odd 7C thrown in if worked for a day or two - so I have some degree of a base of movement and strength to work from.)

ghisino

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#1 Re: Help!
March 20, 2014, 09:49:00 am
I'd throw in some injury prévention as well... Anything you can find about shoulders (theraband stuff, shrugs, but also TWUY exercises), wrist curls in both directions. Tons of comfy deadhanging.

for font compression it seems that being overall strong and flexible at your hips helps even more than targeted strenght.
maybe you could work some big movements like:
muscle up
anything involving a front lever
Turkish getup
1 arm snatch
etc...

the_dom

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#2 Re: Help!
March 20, 2014, 10:56:16 am
Thanks, that's good knowledge. Have actually been doing TGUs and one-arm snatches to rehab my shoulders for surfing so hopefully that'll help with the comeback..

SA Chris

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#3 Re: Help!
March 20, 2014, 11:09:22 am
What were the nagging injuries? Surely you will need to do something to prevent recurrence?

Nibile

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#4 Re: Help!
March 21, 2014, 11:29:21 am
To fit a renewed passion for bouldering and training for climbing in a tight schedule isn't easy.
For a start, I'd immediately drop the running or gently ease myself out and substitute it with strength work, that could be general or climbing specific or both. Surfing in itself is pretty intense, and probably more similar to HIIT, which is far better than "normal" cardio according to many studies.
Especially if you're power oriented, I seriously think that all that running does nothing but harm for regaining power.
Hope this helps.

the_dom

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#5 Re: Help!
March 24, 2014, 06:21:26 am
What were the nagging injuries? Surely you will need to do something to prevent recurrence?

Ah, the nagging injuries - everything from hamstring problems, to knee problems, to weird problems with my fingernail beds to a torn bicep and elbow tendonitis.

They've pretty much all healed though, so I can carry on as usual, surely :) ?

Nibs, I mainly run to keep the weight down - I quite like pizza and beer and find that running is probably the best combination of convenience and benefit. But I've been trying to incorporate interval training (either on a rowing machine or a treadmill) for surfing fitness, so I'll try to run less and do more of that.

Thanks again all.

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Help!
March 31, 2014, 10:17:23 am
They've pretty much all healed though, so I can carry on as usual, surely :) ?

I would still be aware of them though. Might be some scar tissue or still be a bit weak.

 

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