[ebay125]

I know many of you can one arm hang off an edge, but I'm not even close.

I have strong enough fingers to hold the edge, but my shoulders and arms give out quickly. For reference, I can hold the deep in-cut holds on the BM2K (the ones on the sides, not centre), but I really struggle and last 1-2 seconds, this is only possible at a 90 degree angle.

I'm very bad at locking off and have tried to hard to improve this. I can now lock off at all angles on both arms for 5-10 seconds when feeling fresh (once I get even slightly fatigued it becomes 1-2 seconds).

I feel this might be a weak shoulder issue, one that is causing problems on many of the overhanging boulder problems I try (around 7B)

I've begun doing uneven pullups and one arm pullup training (I can't move up at all, no matter what angle i start at).

Any suggestions? I thought maybe I have weak stabilising muscles, though I honestly have no idea.

Thanks!

[a dense loner]

Are you doing the uneven pull ups with hands close together, as in if you're doing them on a campus rung the width apart of your hands may be an issue. The nearer you hands are to the center of your body the harder it will be. Ie if poss get hands a bit farther apart. This sounds like a shit explanation but I'm tired.
When you're locking off on one arm I also do it straight armed trying to stay front on. Use your other arm to push against something if you need. Stay on the bigger holds and build up time before trying other holds.
I don't really think locking off does anything for your climbing since I can do it for quite a while yet am wank at climbing.

[Oldmanmatt]

We advise training with an assisted lift kit or a rope. Behind  our BM2Ks we have a knotted rope hanging, so by gradually moving the "off" hand down the rope, session by session; more weight is placed on the loaded hand.