UKBouldering.com

UKB Power Club Week 213 Mon March 10th - Sun March 16th (Read 9960 times)

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2006
  • Karma: +83/-0
M sneaked out to Curbar to try and finish Jihad. Warm enough to climb in a T shirt so was probably kidding myself. Got to the ramp a couple of times but was too warm really. Pilates in the evening
T
W Gym Core and some aerobic including a 5 min old mans jog on the treadmill which is the first time I've run since Boxing day and knackering my knee shortly afterwards. I'm reading a book ATM about a bloke whose knees were knackered, told to forget it by several docs, did his own research and basically got them better himself via exercise. Precis so far: Some loading of the knee can help cartilage grow back - even in knackered old middle aged knees.
T Lamping with Lagers at Curbar. Boiling in Sheff all day and warm enough again to climb in a T shirt even at 10 at night. Thought it was going to be another frustrating attempt on Jihad but then managed to hold the ramp even though it was warm and claw my way to the top. TFFT. We attempted to find a pub for a beer afterwards but after walking into 3 to find they were all shut we decided it wasnt going to happen.
F
S Burbage South. Probably the wrong place to go considering how windy it was. Failed on lots of things. Felt good on Talk to me Martin but I need someone to tell me where to put my feet as I cant see them. Would like to get that done before it gets too hot
S Heavy lifting in the garden. Knackered

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
Since everyone here suffers from dodgy knees, advice, please.

I've done something to my knee and it's impossible to put weight on the knee when it's bent. The pain seems to be localised on the inside edge of the knee cap. It was a bit dodgy last week, but got worse after I'd cooled down from my outdoor session on Sunday. It's O.K walking on the flat but going up and especially down stairs is painful, bending to pick up stuff is difficult too.

so, I'll obviously be going to see my quack, but in the mean time, should I be keeping weight off it or walking as much as possible. My gut feeling is that sitting around makes it worse.

Any thoughts?

My doc is on holiday and the replacements are pain-killer dispensing hacks. This is of course all the fault of the sharkafuckinthon for making me walk to much!


Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
should I be keeping weight off it or walking as much as possible. My gut feeling is that sitting around makes it worse.

Any thoughts?

Key bit of advice from my physio was generally to keep it moving but with not too much load. If you're sitting at a desk, roll a tennis ball back and forth under your foot. Frequent short easy bike rides.

kelvin

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1293
  • Karma: +60/-1
IME go with your gut feeling - if resting makes it worse... it probably does. Can't say I've experienced what's happening to your knee but I would say to go see a physio and not your Doc. I know it costs but usually, you'll get a far better diagnosis and treatment plan.

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
Cheers guys

That kinda confims my thoughts.

I'd love to go to a Physio, but in France I have to get a doctor's referral, which is easy but time consuming. First, see the doc. Then get sent for a scan ( 3 month wait), then referred. I then pay nothing. Or I go directly and pay money I don't have...

I'd like to do the right thing while I'm waiting.

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
Oh dear. I thought the French health system was supposed to be good. I'm on the most basic level of health insurance in Germany, and my GP had me in an MRI scanner the same evening and to a physio the next day.

(But then, the corner of Munich where I live is home to the largest teaching hospital in Europe, and therefore also has probably the highest density of doctors' practices anywhere, and they all know each other)

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
It's good (free) but slow; My mother-in-law was told she needed to wait 14 months for an eye test for example. Also the medical culture is geared towards prescribing pills 'cos that's what people want (apparently).

I've had all my shoulder and back problems treated well and all paid back by the social security, but you have to follow the procedure.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3586
  • Karma: +312/-2
STG - Climb more trad
MTG - BM mono one armer
LTG - Something hardish in the Autumn

M - BM session
T - Nothing
W - Wall, did all the boulder problems (again) then a few new variations, managed to concoct a few trickier problems.
T - Bike ride with big 'un child.
F - Nothing, travel back to Blighty for the weekend
S - Logport in the morning with family. Did some bouldering, had a play on the system board then tried campussing with reduced fingers. Managed 1-4-6 on two fingers on big and medium rungs, 1-3-5 on two fingers on the small rungs, 1-3-5 on one finger on the big rungs, 1-2-3 on medium rungs and 1-2-fail on one finger on the small rungs. Mono's are muvh harder to hold on an edge than in a pocket!
S - Fly back to IOM and get out for a quick play in the afternoon.

Not a bad week considering the weekend was going to be pretty much nonclimbing. \have decided to put a grade to my LTG, so aiming for 8c+ (I shouldn't have said that...)

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3586
  • Karma: +312/-2

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2006
  • Karma: +83/-0
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Saving-My-Knees-Doctors-Chronic-ebook/dp/B004JHYTEI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1395180198&sr=8-9&keywords=knees


Is the book I'm reading
Challenges the received wisdom from doctors and physios with both knowledge and counter argument (and success)


kelvin

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1293
  • Karma: +60/-1




Challenges the received wisdom from doctors and physios with both knowledge and counter argument (and success)

Cheers for the link - I'll order that.

After three ops on my right knee, the surgeon said "next time it's replacement" and wrote to my doc to say no more running etc. 14 months later, I ran a 69 mile ultra and can honestly say my knee didn't hurt at all. Both during and after the event. I'd only ran 10 miles once in my life before that last op, so it wasn't like I'd ever really ran. I changed my running style, even ran barefoot for a while to force a style change, did hundreds of one legged squats, tabata squat sessions and generally made the muscles around the knee strong.

The surgeon was of the opinion that sport was causing me issues, so I should stop. I followed my instinct. I was 47 I think at the time. There's always hope.

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
Challenges the received wisdom from doctors and physios

Which is ... ?

The received wisdom from my GP, and the orthopaedist he referred me to, was "physios know better than we do about this sort of thing". And from the physios was "Hillwalking? Excellent, keep it up. Also do these other exercises to improve the stabilisation/firing patterns of the muscles in your leg". Seems to be working so far.

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5028
  • Karma: +141/-13
 Mon. Bike 1 hr including 8x 5 mins on 1 min off.
Tue. Board managed 2 projects pretty good session
We'd. Board mirror session struggling.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Turbo 1 hr.
Sat. Bike 2 hrs 30 mins including 7 hills 1 in 5 to 1 in 10
Sun. Anston stones Dukes wall, Frodo lots of seepage. Ended up doing eliminates to get a session pretty wasted by the time I'd finished.

EdGowSmith

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 230
  • Karma: +44/-0
7A:    6/50
7A+:  5/40
7B:    0/30
7B+:  0/20
7C:    0/10

Stretches: 3/4  :(

Mon: Night session at Anstey's with Rory. Didn't really do anything.
Tues: Bouldering at Wall's Hill North with Rory after school. Did my project, but turned out to be quite easy. Think that it, as well as the 7B I did last week, are probably both hard 7A+.
Wed: Session at the Bunker. Stretches.
Thurs: Session at the Bunker. Systems board. Stretches.
Fri: Long session at the Bunker to compensate for no climbing at the weekend. Managed to do monos on ring fingers. Psyched!
Sat: Ten Tors training.
Sun: Ten Tors training, feeling pretty stiff in the evening. Some stretches.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal