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The Art & Science of Bouldering (Read 13167 times)

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#25 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 19, 2014, 10:47:24 am
Saw this on the 8a.nu app. The author climbed his first 9a recently at an age of 36 with a full time job and a family. From reading his website it looks like the book might fit you brief Nasher: "a structure of how to properly integrate the exercises into a climbing specific periodised training plan"

http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/03/11/sneak-peek-at-the-rock-climbers-training-manual/

nasher47

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#26 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 19, 2014, 12:53:21 pm
it looks like the book might fit you brief

http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/03/11/sneak-peek-at-the-rock-climbers-training-manual/

Oh no... yet another training website that will keep me from doing my work...it's a hard life!

Book looks good, I'll be interested to get my hands on a copy when it become available over here.

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nasher47

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#28 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 25, 2014, 03:15:51 pm
So I've had a chance to read through Udo's new masterpiece and thought I would share my thoughts on it here.


Graphically I hated it. I thought there were some amazing photographs and some really excellent use of photo-montages to explain concepts etc but the layout was terrible and particularly irritating was the way in which the text was overlaid on the photos. This kind of layout can work but here it really doesn't


There are quite a lot of words. He says a lot without saying very much at all. However there are some really excellent observations hidden within the rather pleonastic text. This is a bit of a shame as if you took the two elements above, edited the text to say what needs to be said and laid out the images properly then this would be a really nice, philosophical read.


I do view the title as a little misleading as there is very little science, apart from a couple of pages of (quite interesting) sums, a bit more of this would have good, even if you're not into your physics; understanding that mathematically the use of technique make a difference should also help you to understand better when and where to apply different techniques.


Personally I didn't like the way the book has no continuity to it. This is a choice by the author but I felt it made the reading disjointed and made the book seem as though it lacked purpose or clarity.


I suppose this is a fairly negative review on the whole, I did find  it an interesting and thought provoking read, though in my opinion it's overpriced at £20. Perhaps it was the fact that I had that price tag in the back of my mind or perhaps it's because I'm a miserable b&stard but I probably wouldn't recommend purchasing the book at this price, if it gets reduced then at £7.50 I would have been happy.


P.S I'd be really interested to hear someone support this book as I feel I must have missed something and would like to think I would look at it again from a different perspective.

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#29 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 25, 2014, 03:44:36 pm
Doesn't surprise me. There are some gems on Udo's website, and his coaching results are pretty convincing, but he certainly has a very, er, non-linear cognitive style that comes across in his writing and graphics. I've looked at the original German edition of Lizenz zum Bouldern in shops a few times and decided that it's not for me.

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#30 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 27, 2014, 05:40:18 pm
you summarise this better than i do. its a lot of whiffle for a few gems of information that are often quoted from others.
its not a training book, its a quasi-philosophy book

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#31 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
April 07, 2014, 10:05:37 am
The resident wads at TCA Glasgow all seem to love the green book.  Lots of push-ups with feet walking up and down the wall going on, and recreating the photo with Megos doing a front lever off someone's arm.

Isn't this a planche progression exercise, i.e. a fucking cool exercise, but nothing to do with pulling muscles, so with extremely poor specificity for climbing?

miso soup

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#32 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
April 07, 2014, 09:06:39 pm
I've never actually seen it listed as a planche progression.  Antagonist and body tension thing I suppose, not the most climbing specific but you could make that argument for any antagonist stuff, doesn't mean it's not worth doing.  I found it surprisingly difficult.

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#33 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
April 07, 2014, 09:07:32 pm
NB:  I am in no sense a TCA Glasgow resident wad.

a dense loner

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#34 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
April 08, 2014, 12:30:16 am
It's probably the best core exercise I've ever done

 

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