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The Art & Science of Bouldering (Read 13051 times)

nasher47

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The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 10, 2014, 06:27:02 pm
Udo Neumann's new e-book was released today - haven't had a chance to read through it in any depth but thought I'd put it out there in case anyone is interested, it's had some pretty good reviews from around and about so far.


http://artofbouldering.com/

Dave Flanagan

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#1 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 10, 2014, 07:54:47 pm
Looks interesting going to splash out. Hope the english is better than the green book...

nasher47

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#2 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 10, 2014, 09:11:23 pm
Hope the english is better than the green book...

Haha, I hope the content is better than the green book, I was sorely disappointed by that.

Boredboy

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#3 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 10, 2014, 09:18:01 pm
Looks good, what's the green book and why was it disappointing?

Schnell

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#4 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 10, 2014, 09:40:41 pm
 
Hope the english is better than the green book...

"The Art and Science of Bouldering is easy to read on virtually any device. It has been thoroughly tested with Good Reader and PDF Expert (later versions are of course more performant)."

Udo's version of Google Translate doesn't appear to be performant however.

nasher47

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#5 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 10, 2014, 10:00:47 pm
Looks good, what's the green book and why was it disappointing?

Gimme Kraft is the green book. I *personally* found that it was massively overhyped in the run up to it's release and very well marketed (more fool me I guess!) but the book itself is very thin on content and really lacks anything informative for anyone serious about training for climbing. I was hoping for a little more insight into the training regimes of the great climbers featured in the book rather than a (disappointingly basic) list of exercises. Not recommended.

abarro81

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#6 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 10, 2014, 10:34:34 pm
+1 on being disappointed by Gimme Kraft

Paul B

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#7 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 10, 2014, 11:02:20 pm
+1 on being disappointed by Gimme Kraft

it must be sh*t or someone would've stolen Three Nine's copy by now.

Boredboy

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#8 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 07:02:19 am
Ah that green book! I'll take down the peg board and stop doing push ups with my legs in stirrups and go out climbing instead.

Oldmanmatt

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#9 The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 08:28:28 am
I've got to defend it a little.
If you were already training hard, there was nothing new (why did you think there would be? A magic bullet?).
As a guide for someone entering into more serious training, it's excellent.

The English, is better than that used by half our 15 year old climbers... in'it! Bruv.

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#10 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 08:43:39 am
I also like Gimme Kraft, it has been an inspiration this winter when core routines or training at the wall has got stale, choosing a couple of the routines out of there and doing them for a few weeks has helped to liven things up.  There's been excellent results among my friends, although that may be just because the weather has been so bad we've just been to the wall loads!

abarro81

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#11 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 09:01:31 am
I was expecting a book about training for climbing, not a list of gymnastics exercises with a couple of basic campus things thrown in. Perhaps my fault for thinking it was something it wasn't, but I thought the hype was way out of step with the content.

Oldmanmatt

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#12 The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 09:29:16 am
Being a new wall, in an area previously devoid of walls; we've had a large number of newbies. A significant portion have been Parkour addicts. They're training routine is very Gymnastic in content, much like the Green book.
It has been clear, that the progress of these guys and girls into competent Boulderers has been very rapid indeed.
A fairly simple matter of inserting finger strength exercises.
We've, in turn, adopted some of they're routines (including putting in a slackline, which (by anecdote, at least) has improved our better climbers sense of balance).

I feel like I've benefitted from broadening my training, especially with shoulder recovery being such a drag.

Our little experiment has been running 8 months and seems encouraging. Next winters comp season will be the telling point.

Oh yeah, I forgot. Our other big group of newbies, have been the MMA junkies who work security/door on the Casinos and clubs (several East Europeans) and are now three times a week regulars.

All have adopted large parts of the Green book and progressed well from it.
« Last Edit: March 11, 2014, 09:37:27 am by Oldmanmatt »

a dense loner

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#13 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 10:34:54 am
But what have they done on grit?

slackline

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#14 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 10:53:22 am
We've, in turn, adopted some of they're routines (including putting in a slackline, which (by anecdote, at least) has improved our better climbers sense of balance).


Do I have a doppelganger? :clown:

nasher47

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#15 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 11:35:11 am
why did you think there would be? A magic bullet?

I thought there would be more to it as a result of the excellent marketing job they did. And as I said in my previous post I was hoping for a little more insight into the training regimes of the excellent climbers who are promoted in the book, not a magic bullet, I work hard at trying to improve as a climber and I'm very happy doing so. In fact my favourite part of the book is the dvd of all the climbers giving their thoughts on power. I do see the book as essentially a list of exercises and the problem I had with this is they were all exercises I was either already doing or already aware of. What I really wanted was a structure of how to properly integrate the exercises into a climbing specific periodised training plan, this is touched on but not in any great depth. It's a shame as the book really had a lot of potential but fell short at the last hurdle. *My personal opinion*

Bit Off Topic now though!

slackline

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#16 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 11:38:04 am
I thought there would be more to it as a result of the excellent marketing job they did.

You didn't pay attention at school did you....



Dave Flanagan

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#17 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 11:52:47 am
.... the excellent marketing job they did.

This isn't the first mention of I have read of their marketing savvy, what did they do that was so great?

Oldmanmatt

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But what have they done on grit?

Fair cop.


Still it's a bloody long hike from here.

Quicker to get to Font.


Anyway, a Dartmoor granite V4 is worth 7C on Grit, isn't it? 😜😇

SA Chris

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#19 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 12:14:02 pm
If it's Death Jug Mantle then V1 is worth 7C on grit.

slackline

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#20 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 12:17:46 pm
.... the excellent marketing job they did.

This isn't the first mention of I have read of their marketing savvy, what did they do that was so great?

Included Alex Megos in the "school" training group and waited for him to on-sight 9a before releasing the guide.

nasher47

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#21 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 12:28:44 pm
.... the excellent marketing job they did.

This isn't the first mention of I have read of their marketing savvy, what did they do that was so great?

Included Alex Megos in the "school" training group and waited for him to on-sight 9a before releasing the guide.

Bingo. What a sucker I am!

miso soup

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#22 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 09:24:24 pm
The resident wads at TCA Glasgow all seem to love the green book.  Lots of push-ups with feet walking up and down the wall going on, and recreating the photo with Megos doing a front lever off someone's arm.

nasher47

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#23 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 09:46:16 pm
recreating the photo with Megos doing a front lever off someone's arm.

What is Megos doing at TCA!? Surely he has better things to do with his time!?

nasher47

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#24 Re: The Art & Science of Bouldering
March 11, 2014, 09:52:43 pm
And just for clarity, I don't have any issues with any of the exercises recommended in Gimme Kraft, I was just expecting more from the book than a list of exercises. It does not come as a surprise that people are seeing gains from doing additional targeted training.

 

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