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1-9 (Read 15454 times)

pyrosis

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1-9
March 02, 2014, 11:00:05 pm
Just a trivia question to satisfy my curiosity. Has anyone other than Jan Hojer been able to pull of a 1-9 on the campus board? I wouldn't have even believed it possible had I not seen the video. Also the pinky lever on those horible monos on the bm2, just insane

EdGowSmith

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#1 Re: 1-9
March 02, 2014, 11:16:15 pm
Jan Hojer's 1-9 in his training video is not as far as 1-9 on a standardized campus board (22cm rung spacings). It's 122 compared to 176cm, making it just over 1-6.5 (if my maths is correct). Still massively impressive though! :strongbench:

highrepute

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#2 Re: 1-9
March 03, 2014, 07:20:09 am
a quick  :google: tells me he does 156cm, more like 1-8

http://www.reddit.com/r/Climbingvids/comments/1eownq/training_jan_hojer_training_video_including_some/

but then how reliable is this source?

Loads of people can do the those pinky mono front levers.

Can't you do one Ed? seem to remember a pic of a SW youth doing one.

EdGowSmith

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#3 Re: 1-9
March 03, 2014, 08:02:07 am
The guy who shot the video apparently measured the distance and then told someone who posted a comment on the video (saying it was 122cm), still not super reliable.

I don't think it would be as far as 156cm though, seeing as Jan is about 188cm tall. That would mean his bottom hand would be only about 1/5th up his body when he latches the top rung.

Not really, I can get into the position but can't hold it at all. Two people at my local centre have done them though, one being over 12 st.!

I think pinky monos aren't that much harder than monos on other fingers on a Beastmaker, as a lot more of your pinky can fit in the hole!

highrepute

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#4 Re: 1-9
March 03, 2014, 09:18:14 am
Yes. You're correct ed. comment on the vid here


Nibile

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#5 Re: 1-9
March 03, 2014, 10:23:14 am
I think pinky monos aren't that much harder than monos on other fingers on a Beastmaker, as a lot more of your pinky can fit in the hole!
To me it's exactly the opposite, they are very hard, close to impossible on the BM: my pinkies are so small that they get no grip at all and slide off. On a sling it's different, because it squeezes the pad and I get some grip.

pyrosis

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#6 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 02:45:06 am
I see in the vimeo comments it said this particular board the feat performed was ~48 inches. Still pretty insane, would be 1-7 on my board, but not 1-9 (64 inches). Still.

I didn't realize so many people had the ability for the pinky mono - just got my BM2 and those pockets feel horrible. I'll be working towards just hanging on them...

a dense loner

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#7 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 05:44:08 am
Why? You're never going to use a pinky mono, what's the point?

Oldmanmatt

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#8 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 07:56:02 am

Why? You're never going to use a pinky mono, what's the point?

Cue Franco....

Ru

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#9 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 10:20:14 am
Why? You're never going to use a pinky mono, what's the point?

I've used a pinky mono twice. Although one was on a 6c route so there might have been an easier sequence.

Nibile

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#10 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 11:07:31 am
Why? You're never going to use a pinky mono, what's the point?
Because they are there.

slackline

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#11 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 11:27:26 am
Why? You're never going to use a pinky mono, what's the point?
Because they are there.

 :lol:

pyrosis

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#12 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 12:17:20 pm
I meant working towards hanging on them from my middle fingers.

a dense loner

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#13 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 12:35:24 pm
Thank god for that

Stubbs

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#14 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 12:42:32 pm
You're not a believer in the Beastmaker 3-2-1 theory then Dense?

a dense loner

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#15 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 12:48:20 pm
I've no idea what that is. I do know that pinky monos, back two and devil hangs are a gimmick tho or do you not agree? In your, or anyone's, use of any of these grip types

as646

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#16 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 01:55:38 pm
I think it's much the same as a one armer. Not necessarily applicable directly to climbing, but it will demonstrate how strong you are to the ladies. Thus making them want to have sex with you.

A noble pursuit, as far as I'm concerned.

SA Chris

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#17 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 02:16:04 pm
Which is the more noble pursuit? The pinkie mono hang or getting laid?

Stubbs

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#18 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 02:29:45 pm
Here you go Dense, from the just under the grip terminology pictures: http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training

Thankfully my fingers are sufficiently weak that I don't have to think about splitting them up to try and make them stronger. I can see some merit in the idea of in making fingers stronger by isolating them and training them in ones twos or threes, or is this bollocks?

slackline

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#19 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 02:58:48 pm
I can see some merit in the idea of in making fingers stronger by isolating them and training them in ones twos or threes, or is this bollocks?

Pah, don't be silly, no one who knows anything about training would consider isolating weaker muscles/body parts for focused training.  :P

Doylo

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#20 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 04:45:16 pm
I'd rather get laid than do a pinky mono hang

Boredboy

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#21 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 05:13:47 pm
Are they mutually exclusive?

petejh

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#22 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 05:16:26 pm

Doylo

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#23 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 05:21:56 pm
Are they mutually exclusive?

Yes it's one or the other I'm afraid.

a dense loner

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#24 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 05:27:06 pm
Stubbs I think you misunderstand me. Training fingers is good regardless of how you do it. I'm saying no one uses any of the 3 silly grip types that people like to band about so what's the point in training them. As for the devil hangs dan coined that because he wasn't strong on monos.

Boredboy

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#25 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 06:44:52 pm
Are they mutually exclusive?

Yes it's one or the other I'm afraid.

Man, that's a difficult choice.

PipeSmoke

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Stubbs

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#27 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 07:36:17 pm
Stubbs I think you misunderstand me. Training fingers is good regardless of how you do it.

IN the text I linked the Beastmakers talk about training the fingers separately so they are stronger when you use them together, rather than just training your little fingers in case you come across a really small mono! Do you think that idea is BS?

a dense loner

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#28 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 07:58:59 pm
Ah I see, I don't really have any interest in any other sites apart from this and voyeurism on 8a.largepenis when it comes to climbing so only perused the link. I sometimes train back 2 half crimped but when it comes to pockets then I don't use them, the way it turns my forearm I would rather just use my ring finger since it feels safer to me. I'm cursed in climbing with my little fingers, hips and long legs not being able to do what my brain tells them to but hey ho.
So in a nutshell I wouldn't train my pinkies since the angle I would hold them wouldn't be transferable for me to any other hold type.
Or looking at it another way to quote Micky P "what the fuck do people train on fingerboards all the time for? What's that gotta do with climbing?"

Doylo

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#29 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 08:07:33 pm
Micky says hi  :wave:

tomtom

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#30 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 08:13:13 pm
Are they mutually exclusive?

Yes it's one or the other I'm afraid.

Its all to do with supply and demand :)

When I was a yoof getting laid was pretty important, and mono pinky deadhangs were not. But I probably stood far more chance of doing a mono pinky deadhang.

Now I'm not a yoof, getting laid is less important, and mono pinky deadhangs might be more so (they're not actually I'm not bothered..). But I stand far more chance of getting laid than doing a mono pinky deadhang.

:)

petejh

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#31 Re: 1-9
March 05, 2014, 08:30:00 pm
More money? ...


Or looking at it another way to quote Micky P "what the fuck do people train on fingerboards all the time for? What's that gotta do with climbing?"

... they both use fingers?   :-\








 

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