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Dundee ? (Read 4518 times)

i.munro

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Dundee ?
February 26, 2014, 12:09:38 pm
Hi All

I'm working in Dundee the next couple of days then i have a free weekend.
Recommendations for a smidge of bouldering in the event of nice weather appreciated. Current plan is to hire a car & head over Trossachs way just as I have some info.

Thanks

SA Chris

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#1 Re: Dundee ?
February 26, 2014, 12:20:59 pm
head to Clova. or up the Aberdeen coast?

https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Glen_Clova_Bouldering

I started moving info to wiki on here, but ran out of steam. Pebblespanker has put a load of the newer stuff on UKC.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=73

I cant keep track of all the variations that have been done on the Peel Boulder's South and West sides!

Much closer, and dare I say it marginally better? This time of year the Trossachs boulders need a good few days of dry windy weather to dry out properly. Some of the stuff on shady side of boulders at clova will be green, but still enough to be going on with. And even if bouldering is too wet it's a beatuful area to walk - you can even bag a couple of Munros if so inclined. The hotel does good pub food and B&B accomodation or bunkhouse, but it's less than an hour away from Dundee.

If weather is awful A Vertical World is good for training in city centre.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2014, 12:37:13 pm by SA Chris »

i.munro

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#2 Re: Dundee ?
February 26, 2014, 01:40:39 pm
Thanks. Looks good. I know you recommended Clova to me before but I wondered if it was a bit high for this time of year.

I'm hoping to get to vertical world again one evening.

SA Chris

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#3 Re: Dundee ?
February 26, 2014, 02:04:00 pm
I think snow line was about 5-600m or so, but after thaw last weekend ground is likely to be very damp and muddy but snow free, so use a tarp and hope for a couple of dry days! Hillside faces south and should get sun this time of year and things like Peel Session S and W faces dry quickly, but could probably do with a brush down, and worth cleaning and chalking top outs a bit as they retain damp a lot longer. Might possibly be free on Saturday, but hopefully be skiing!

Pebblespanker

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#4 Re: Dundee ?
February 26, 2014, 02:13:30 pm
One caveat about the Clova Hotel... if they are hosting a wedding reception the chances of food are slim, we have been turned down twice in the last 6 months for this reason :( If fresh snow has falle beforehand and temps are above zero in the glens there will be dampness issues everywhere. If conditions look iffy re damp snow then Trossachs has the best views

Glen Lednock is well worth considering for a visit, even if you have to park (cosiderately) at the lower gate the walk-in is a good warm up and Lednock has the largest number of problems out of the Clova, Lednock or Trossachs areas.

The new Clova stuff on UKC is all good warm up stuff in the 5-6A+ region, also have done 3 other new ones in the same vein but not recorded from last Autumn, just adding to the punter grade circuit really - Peel Boulder is pretty well developed these days!

Lastly there is always the seashore bouldering at Portlethen - again loads of problems to be done and some classics in the 7's, not all tidal either but a good low tide day helps - high tide this weekend is mid-day

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#5 Re: Dundee ?
February 26, 2014, 02:18:50 pm
... things like Peel Session S and W faces dry quickly, but could probably do with a brush down, and worth cleaning and chalking top outs a bit as they retain damp a lot longer.

+1 for the advice on problem choice and top outs  :great:

If the wind is blowing up the glen then the Peel Session face is out of the rain, but the topout isn't necessarily...

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Dundee ?
February 26, 2014, 04:19:41 pm
Glen Lednock is well worth considering for a visit, even if you have to park (cosiderately) at the lower gate the walk-in is a good warm up and Lednock has the largest number of problems out of the Clova, Lednock or Trossachs areas.

Good call on Lednock, forgot about that; a bit lower and good chance of dry rock.

i.munro

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#7 Re: Dundee ?
February 27, 2014, 12:19:31 pm
Weather in Dundee today is glorious. If it holds is the recommendation still Lednock?

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Dundee ?
February 27, 2014, 12:31:54 pm
Hard to say from forecasts. From what i can see it's better the further east you are, and potential to be misty / foggy in the hills? If it was my call, I would wait and see forecasts etc tomorrow night, and probably go check out Clova unless forecast drastically improves, and if it's not nice up there (you can call the hotel for an eyeball on the weather if it's dubious) you can always fall back on Portlethen or somewhere coastal, whereas if you drive to Lednock you are kind of committed.

My 5p anyway. I'll drop you my mobile no if you want an eyeball on weather here.

SA Chris

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#9 Re: Dundee ?
March 03, 2014, 10:54:10 am
Any joy? Was nice on the coast sat and sun, got out for a few hours after lunch on Sunday, rain came in about 3:30.

i.munro

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#10 Re: Dundee ?
March 04, 2014, 01:07:53 pm
Any joy? Was nice on the coast sat and sun, got out for a few hours after lunch on Sunday, rain came in about 3:30.

Thanks for all the info. Went up on Sat. Found Glen Clova. 
Slashing down when I got there but dried up just as I was about to bail.
Found some of the bouldering.
Saw an arctic hare!
Even did a couple of warm-ups.
Then spent an hour or so failing on 'Robin cooked' as it was the only thing I found that I fancied the landing on.
Even got a bit of (much needed) sun!


Finally legged it up to Loch Brandy at dusk to get warm again :-)

All in all pretty successful day out considering.

Was planning a return on Sun but the weather looked iffy so I went to Vertical World for a quick sesh.

SA Chris

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#11 Re: Dundee ?
March 04, 2014, 01:46:37 pm
Some cryptic footwork needed on that one, or a lot of strength! Did the FA the day that Robin Cook died it, hence the name. Glad you enjoyed it. You get into the hotel?

i.munro

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#12 Re: Dundee ?
March 04, 2014, 02:38:51 pm
Some cryptic footwork needed on that one, or a lot of strength! Did the FA the day that Robin Cook died it, hence the name. Glad you enjoyed it. You get into the hotel?

Would have enjoyed it a lot  more If I'd done it :-)
Seemed to be waving my left leg about like a demented spider.

Didn't try for the hotel. Needed to get going in the morning (drink being taken on the Fri) so staying in Dundee seemed less faff than checking out.

In case of future visits what else would you suggest in the way of low problems with good landings?
( found the solitude & no phone signal a bit intimidating with a fairly minimal pad.)

SA Chris

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#13 Re: Dundee ?
March 04, 2014, 02:43:24 pm
I get the hold out right, step across to two shitty foot edges on the right, jump for the lip, then campus to match, get right foot high and mantel. Or used to, I think I would struggle on it now!

i.munro

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#14 Re: Dundee ?
March 04, 2014, 02:54:04 pm
I get the hold out right, step across to two shitty foot edges on the right, jump for the lip, then campus to match, get right foot high and mantel. Or used to, I think I would struggle on it now!

That move didn't seem too bad. It was getting the crimp out right that was foxing me.

SA Chris

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#15 Re: Dundee ?
March 04, 2014, 02:59:50 pm
I seem to recall there's a wierd toe / heel cam of one foot and toe hook of the other round the bottom of the left arete.

i.munro

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#16 Re: Dundee ?
March 04, 2014, 03:06:33 pm
I seem to recall there's a wierd toe / heel cam of one foot and toe hook of the other round the bottom of the left arete.

Ah! sneaky!

 

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