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UKB Power Club Week 210 Mon 17th Feb - Sun 23rd Feb (Read 5606 times)

shark

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11.6-8

M.
T. Noon. Mixed it up with some AeroCap and some AnCap n ~410moves. Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Busy on the wave. Did some easier probs then played on the Oak moves on 40deg board. Got dressed to go then noticed the green and black was still up that I tried on saturday so had a few goes at that.
W.
T.
F. PM. Burbage West. FB warmup first. Quite a few out. Met tomtom. He got WSS start virtually straight away. Drizzle and rain drove everyone away after a while. I hung in there on my own and was rewarded? by getting stupidly close twice.
S. AM. Foundry. Bouldered on Wave while Poppy at spider club. Got it into after a while did a hardish yellow level2 up middle and got on green/black spots again
S.

Finding it hard to keep the faith with limestone likely to be a washout for weeks so dieting seems pointless. Also first time I've had two days off this year. Pleased with my endurance gains on tuesday. Would have been good to have bagged WSS but hey ho. Out to eatswood tomorrow - hopefully it won't quite catch the wind. Realised I've not done any fingerboarding for 3 weeks so probably should resume that again.

Muenchener

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STG (Easter): 6c+ redpoint
                     obtain or build doorway mounting rig for beastmaker. Didn't happen, not a priority just now
          Turkish Get-Up w/20kg kettlebell.
MTG (Spring Summer 2014) 7a redpoint.
          Two hundred practice falls by Easter - currently: 15 Am not doing routes at the wall regularly enough for this to be realistic
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:    Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. Successes on current  circuit: 0. Completed projects on next-harder circuit: 1. Getting used to the dynamics of bouldering with a group. Until now bouldering for me has mostly been a solitary activity; only just getting my head round the idea of finding support from a group encouraging rather than intimidating. A positive development.

T: Office social event   :beer2:

W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Overhung, underslept.  :yawn: :sick: Moderate mileage on routes 5b, 6a+, 6a+, 5c, 5b, 6a, 6a+, 6a

T: Alpine approach training. 10 x 10 stories office stairs w/5kg rucksack

F:
S: Climbing, Konstein. A few pleasant warm-up routes; did all the moves on the 7a+ my mate was trying; got very close on one of my 6c+ projects. Generally a good day.

S: Knee Physio exercises. TGU progressions with 20kg kettlebell: managed a complete controlled negative both sides, major step downward forward. 2 x core circuit from new Steve House training book, albeit not wearing double boots for the L-sits.

WSS ... stupidly close

My sympathies. Me too. Lunged for and touched the jug at the end of the crux on my project, feet cut, didn't hold it. Tweaked finger

IS2

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Mon: Climbing routes (5) onsight mainly 7a ish good day head good and movement excellent.
 
Tues: Climbing routes onsight (6)  mainly 7a ish... head good but getting a bit tired but still feeling good.

Wed: Climbing routes at Lliber .. onsight about 6b- 6c+  ish then knackered !! went to Murla ( costa blanca ) for a look... big mistake, totally powered out just looking.

Thurs: resting

Fri: One hand hangs on 1cm edge... pyramids for max strength..... best was 70% body weight this is proving very effective way of building max finger strength!!

Sat: resting digging holes for new gate way and cladding new shower walls.

Sunday: Epic boulder and circuits session at Eden Rock..circuits gave excellent Ancap session... probably reduced benefit by also doing lots of boulders with people... but problems were awesome and the craic was good.

JackAus

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STG: Fingers then V7 & DWS Project.
LTG: V11 in a session.

M: Lot 33. Highball session on a 7b/+ micro route. About 7m high.  2nd session trying it. Managed to get higher and more comfortable than last session (could barely get off the ground then!). Need to remove the buried boulder from the landing, I just can't commit to the big move with that still there. Work late.
T: Early morning core session. Work late.
W: New area. Put up 5 new lines all pretty easy stuff. 2 slabs, 1 arete and 2 aretes on slabs. Also cleaned and worked a 3 move wonder thats about V8. Felt really hard.
T: Early start. Lot 33 with shovel and mattock. Cleared out the landing below some highballs. Dug out the ankle breaker, it was fucken massive! About 2ft straight down... Good 2hr workout thats different from climbing... Work late.
F: Lot 33. Highball session. Trying both the 7b/+ and a V5-7. Some proper commitment on the route now. Having to properly dyno... Very close to sticking it and hoping there isn't a higher crux... First attempts on the problem. So far can't work out how to get to the roof. Very confused. Very good line though. Work late. Went to bed as soon as I got home feeling like shit.
S: Woke early to go climbing then rolled back over needing rest. Did some easy stretching before working late again.
S: Early start. Lot 33 highballs. Route: More attempts. Slight progress, no longer a full on dyno. Problem: Still working it out... This thing is hard! Was with a mate who was there on the day the FA was done (early 2001) and he had old photos that we used for beta. No one has climbed on it since then and was lost to the ages... Also worked a V7 roof line. I've done most of the moves but don't feel too close to it yet.

So some fun climbing. The highballs definitely don't feel like they are going to happen soon. They are definite projects...

Fingers are starting to feel abit better (I assume... I just don't think about them as much and they don't seem to be hurting as much when I climb).

Here's the micro route before I cleared the landing:
The other line goes out through the roof to the left.


mindfull

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One session on tuesday, then got the flu  :'(

5aVE-5bVE-5cVE-6aVE-6bOH-6cVE-6bOH-6aVE

fried

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Mon- Tues - Work
Wednesday - Indoors, new goal - Do all the new blue circuit problems (6A/B) as they appear rather than just the ones I like. 1 out of 3 so far. Weights, back stuff.
Thursday - Didn't want to climb today, but someone's cleaning the drains in my block, so I decide to go just to drink coffee. Easy session , still a couple of nasty upper arm twinges.
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Nowt
Sunday - Beautiful day, get to Sabot's carpark and it's nearly full at midday. It feels like spring has begun. Do a warm up on the orange circuit at 91.1. Feeling good.
Move over to the blue circuit at Cul de Chien and start well doing the first problem (8) first go, rather than backing off the top out two or three times and getting in a bad mood. This is one of my problems outside, all too easy for a grey-haired 40 someting with dodgy knees and back to find a reason to leave a problem for another day.

This sets the tone and I climb a lot of blues first go, this is a good circuit for an indoor climber as there are plenty of decent hold and you can power through a lot of the problems. End up trying this http://bleau.info/cul/13704.html
Although, using the good holds out left. Good problem marred by having a boulder right in the middle of the landing zone. More blues...
Stop of at Sabot's on the way back to the car and do 1 blue, I'm done. Drive back home with a big smile on my face.

T_B

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84.7Kg

M -  30 min repeater sess to test elbow. Straight hangs, 6 x 7 front 3, 4 x 7 back 3, then 6 x 7 on 15mm edge. So not too bad. No pain afterwards all day or evening.
T - Slight pain in elbow in morning : (. Walked out to Stanage with R, then went to Works. 1 hour of mostly vert problems (3 white, 3 murple). Light sess.
W - Slight pain in elbow in morning : ( Lunch: AeroCap. Rougly 10 mins on, 5-7 mins off x 3 and a bit. The pump and general locking about seemed to put a lot of strain on *both* elbows. Oh dear, bit despondent. Pain in the evening, did some stretching before bed
T - No pain in the morning at all. Lunch - self-diagnosed not as tendonitis, but as ulnar nerve issue. Worked out shoulder stabilisation exercises. Works p.m. 15-20 moves on campus board with 3 min rests (too long), twice across bottom of Green 8b, once across top of Brown 8a. Some probs (inc murples). One twinge at chicken wing move on end of Brown 8a. Stretching.
F - No pain in morning at all. Stretching before work. Lunch - 164 leg pulls, theraband, stretching.
S - No pain. Afternoon - Curbar. Warmed up then trashed baby skin not getting up various things. Great to be out. More stretching later.
S - Theraband and stretching. Felt quite tight down the teres minor/major/deltoids? No pain

I think I'm now on top of the elbow issue  :please:




Dolly

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First week for ages that I've had 3 days off. Partly through circumstance and partly to give my fingers/shoulders a break.
Knee probably about the same, maybe a little better, its hard to tell as the changes are sometimes quite small.



M Pilates
T
W Gym core and aerobic
T Shed. I love training here. Its nails and I get weaker when I dont make the walk up to the top of the garden
F
S Nearly a full day out which is quite rare for me. Ramshaw. Despite being the lightest I've been for years (weighed myself on Friday morning) and going to bed early on Friday night I don't feel like I've got "the pull" which is a right pisser. Do lots of easier problems and fail on plenty as well, here and at Newstones and climb until I cant even pull on and my skin is sore. It was very windy as well but I had a good day out. Fail miserably on Night of Lust - I should have looked at Nai's vid a bit more closely really rather than trying to do a daft sequence coming over with my right hand to the high crimp. Lose skin off my knuckles on a daft 4 mantel problem which is nails and takes me 5/6 goes. I'd cut my nails too short as well and pulled away the skin from the nail on 2 fingers which still hurts now.  Probably the most enjoyable problem I did was Collywood which I'd recommend if you haven't done it.
S



Evil

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STG: Power up for boulder trip end of March.

M - Cycle commute 16 miles total. Evening - 10 minute fingerboard thing plus elbow exercises
T - Cycle commute 16 miles total. Evening routes at the wall. 4+, 5+, 6a+, 6a+, 6c+(top rope stuck on one move), 7a(top rope came off once - foot slip), 7a(same again but no foot slip), 6c+(top rope, came unstuck in 1 bit), 6b.
W - Cycle commute 16 miles total. Lunchtime 5k. Lost the GPS signal (no time).
T - Cycle commute 16 miles total. Evening some L-sit pullups and pullups holding a sling with one hand and fingerboard with the other.
F - Body weight circuit thing morning. Evening bouldering at the wall - Tried some new problems on a set where they just number from 1-30. Did no.20 quite easily (and some lower ones), worked on 21 and 22, which were suddenly much harder...Spent some time on the board at the end.
S - Walked 7 miles. Fell over the dog as he tried to run away from a tiny angry looking dog, went smack into my leg, and then as I stepped forward with the other leg, he was right there too, and sent me sprawling. Skinned my palm. Dog tried to lick it better :shrug:. Went for a boulder afterwards but mainly ended up messing about on small holds on the board so I didn't have to touch the palm of my hand on anything.
S - Walked 7 miles. Bouldered afternoon/evening for only about an hour - Managed to do all the moves on the problem number 22 from Friday, but didn't manage to string it all together. Next time! Warmed up doing some new problems which top out for top out practice. Am terrible at topping out, my arms wobble as I go from pulling to pushing.

cheque

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STG- Normal middle fingers
2014 Goals- 20 19 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Rest. Driving to Newcastle, walking round Newcastle. Bought Northumberland trad guide. :bounce:

T- Attempt to find Padda crag, the most remote inland crag I’ve ever attempted to climb at! Thwarted by torrential rain and 30-strong herd of giant cattle blocking single-track, middle-of-nowhere road, necessitating more than a kilometre of reversing. Settle for a walk along Hadrian’s Wall checking out the Whinsill easytrad crags below it.

W- Bowden Doors- eerily silent! Walked the length of the crag without feeling motivated to put my shoes on- all seemed a bit scrittly and worn out. On the walk back soloed some routes and developed a more positive view. Sadly it then started drizzling so game over. Checked out Back Bowden after- seriously impressed! :jaw:

T- Kyloe out of the woods. Lots of scary soloing- Northumberland grading is a mystery to me! Great fun. Lovely warm sunshine made it feel like spring had arrived. It hadn’t of course and we got soaked walking through the woods to find the preposterously-located other Kyloe. Psyched to return with better weather/ fingers and see some red squirrels.

F- Rest. Holiday stuff/ driving.

S- Rest.

S- Rest.

Holiday week with no training or hard climbing. Great to visit a new (to me) area. Back on the training and (weather permitting) trad this week.

Duma

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Nice one Fried, sounds like a good day.

STG - get up to speed without reinjuring anything
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - AM sleep off nights, PM TCA for 90min on Reds. few more down, but nothing hard
T -
W -
T -
F - PM TCA brief session. forerun final probs for sat comp, then working more reds - no real progress, though did a hard compression move I'd been failing on before. not enough sleep.
S - 12 hr shift, then cider, not enough sleep
S - 12hr shift, not enough sleep

68.5kg.

must. sleep. more.

kelvin

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Sorted my life out after working away so much, so the week was a write off.

Porth Ysgo on Saturday was dry,the tide wasn't for heading out tho but played around on the back rocks. Nothing too hard but it was just nice to be on rock again.

Sunday was a washout and I was too lazy to go the Beacon. Had a roast, dessert too and sat in front of the logburner in the club cottage. The rest did me well tho because to day I managed to up my sports grade a fair bit...

csl

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Goals for Feb

Climb 3x a week 3/3 - 0/3
1x session a week on a rope. 1/1 - 0/1
1x outside
7b/E4/7A+ depending on what i do when I get out.

Stay under 75kg. Eat a bit healthier food. 

Goals for Winter

V8/7B indoors/ Get stronger on Boulders - Try and get a V8 by end of Feb.
Book a sport climbing trip - Rodellar booked, 11 weeks to train.

Two week update.

1.
Mon- Biscuit
Did Hendrix 10 - V5 - second go.
Tried V6 roof, too tired.
Then 3x5 mins pumpy ARC.
On the Minute x 8 on a V3.
Bad skin and tired.
Tue- Rest
Wed- Westway - 4x3's
Long warmup of about 5 routes including 6b+ on main wall.
Set 1
7a+ on main wall - 6a+ - 6a
Set 2
6a+ - 6a+ - 6a+
Set 3
6b+ - 6a+ - 6a+
Set 4
6b+ - 6b
Thu- Rest
Fri - Biscuit
V5 O/S. Some goes on V6's and 7's
Sat- Travel to Slovakia
Sun- Ski

2.
Mon - Sun - weeks skiing in Slovakia, skiied lots of variable snow. Landed a 360 off a kicker. Skiied a big, steep face off piste.

Good to have a rest week, have kicked off an 11 week training cycle for Rodellar today with my first AnCap session. Be good to see where i can get by May 10th when i go to Rodellar.

nik at work

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STG - climb outside
MTG - BM mono one-armer
LTG - somethign hard-ish in Autumn

M - BM session, short but reasonable
T - BM session, throw in a bit of stamina action for a change, it wasn't very exciting...
W - Nowt
T - Climbing wall, did all the boulder problems (except one, grrrr...) and all the overhanging routes.
F - Was going to go to the all again, but got distracted by cake...
S - Climbing in the afternoon for a couple of hours, very windy. Did the training traverse (7b+ ish) 3 times then a mate had a toprope on new route I did a couple of weeks ago. He got all the moves and did it in two sections before finger failure, a good effort. I did it (on a rope) three times between attempts. Bored of the wind, went to the supermarket.

Weather is getting beyond a joke now, has been rain and gales for months (or feels that way), sort it out.

kelvin

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Weather is getting beyond a joke now, has been rain and gales for months (or feels that way), sort it out.

North Wales seemed to sort itself yesterday  :2thumbsup:



SA Chris

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STG - 13st

M - 1/h hour cardio
T - hour on bike, road and hills. Note to Cree bike light owners, they do not get dim when the battery goes, they just go out! cycling country lanes by mobile phone light is challenging. Core work on monkey bars at park
W - weigh in 13 st 6 3/4 .Wall session evening; mixed a few routes with bouldering and had a brief go on campus board, actually felt OK on big rungs. Shoulder feels good again.
T - weights - antagonistics
F - Can't remember doing anything
S - afternoon session at new spot on coast, did half dozen probs, mostly 5 easy 6. and worked on a few harder eliminates.
S- hour swimming with kids, afternoon picking up children at dry slope. Strenuous IKEA build in evening (battery dead in screwdriver)

tomtom

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2014 totals:
Outside 8
Indoor 5
Training 9

M: work
T: work
W: work
Th: work
F: Burbage West. Met up with Shark under West Side Story about 12:30... I'd already have a couple of warm up attempts before he arrived - and then my next attempt got the porthole. Quite bizarre really... feet felt sketchy, left hand felt like it was greasing out of the mono-crimp-of-shitness but I just relaxed a bit. Just held the third sidepull and reeled my body in close to the rock. Crossed over the left foot - then without looking up at all, placed my RF on the requisite smear, LF on a hold (not had time to chalk mark my ususal one) and in one easy feeling move looked up, stood up and my hand landed plumb in the porthole/jug. Then ensued a slightly panicked (DONT PANIC) foot scrabble until I realised there were actually some smears for them. Having never been this high I then tentatively went up to feel the sloper (it felt shit - greasy) back down again, back up, back down, sideways a little, back up (all the time with Shark bellowing encouragement at me) then got pumped and plopped off :) Anything more than 5 moves is endurance for me - so I'm not really surprised I didnt get any further. It was drizzling, I had a cold excuses excuses. Its odd.. when you look from the ground it doesnt look that bad - but when you are up there you realise it is slightly overhanging - the holds are reasonable but its no path - and I'm a coward :D Anyway - I traversed in a couple of times to try the top - and got my foot up high once, but didnt really feel like committing... spotted shark for a bit, tried the top again etc.. got cold & went home...

Sa: Helsby. Nice session - friday didnt really wear me out physically - and felt fresh and flashed a couple of things I normally take a few efforts to achieve. Left after 90 min or so and fist pumped every goal we put past Cardiff on the drive home :)

Su: Well it was an iffy conditions day. MrsTT was away all day - so I half arsedly pottered up to Hobson Moor (didnt fancy a long peak drive) and had a look at the 7A and 7B on the high boulder to the left.. I was very unmotivated - and as I went back to the car to get my pad (having decided to do something) it started drizzling heavily enough to wet the rock so I went home and had a bacon sarnie :) Good session followed on the Beastmaker. Assisted one armers now down to 15KG.. but may have pulled my back again straining on the little crimps... grr..

oh.. just dropped below 11 st 6lb :)

webbo

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Mon. turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Board. Worked projects got close on one kept dabbing.
Wed. Bike 18 miles including 20 secs on 40 40 secs off x 5 3sets.
Thu. Board mirror session but did half the problems using screw on footholds rather than bolt ons.
Fri. Nothing/.
Sat. Secret garden played around on the 7a+ on the Duck roof made more progress than I usually do.
Sun. Board easy mirror session, core abit tired from yesterday. Dumbells. Turbo 1 hour.

Weight same as last week. Not suprising given what I ate and drank.

Luke Owens

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Getting bored of plastic pulling... Managed to tie in outdoors last Saturday!

Monday:
Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-ups
10 Dips
3 x 12 Front Dumbbell Raises (10kg)

Weighted Deadhangs (20mm Edge):
Progressive Set:
7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs, 12.5kg - 10secs

Main Set:
15kg - 9secs, 15kg - 9secs, 15kg - 7secs

Evening: Aerocap - 30 Mins

Tuesday:
Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips

Off-set Pull Ups: 2 x 6 Reps 2 x 8 Reps 2 x 10 Reps

3 x 10 Hammer Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Dumbbell Front Raises (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Dumbbell Upright Shoulder Rotation's (5kg)

Evening: Aerocap 4x4's with Ally

Set 1: 4 x 6b+
Set 2: 4 x 6b+
Set 3: 4 x 6b+
Set 4: 4 x 6b+

Psicobloc 6c 4 goes failed - tired.

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Boardroom Routes

5+, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6c+, 6c+, 6b+, 7a, 7a, 6c, 6b+

10 mins Aerocap warm down

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Glorious weather on the Orme! Did the 30m extension to Contusion 2nd go, mate sent me the wrong way first go. Gets 6c+.

Bouldered when mate left early, tried "The Greek" (7A) a few times getting close but was tired.

Sunday: Rest

EdGowSmith

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Bit late this, but oh well!

7A:    4/50
7A+:  2/40
7B:    0/30
7B+:  0/20
7C:    0/10

Stretches: 4/4

Mon: Was supposed to be resting but got bored, so went to look at a new beach bouldering venue. Got to the top of the steep path leading down to it and then it started raining so I went home...
Tues: Head up to Dartmoor for two days camping / bouldering. Lakeside Boulders in the morning, most stuff was wet but did a few slabs and easier things. Then headed to East Side in the evening in the hope of trying a 7B+, but unfortunately it was soaked. Stretches.
Wed: Cuckoo Rock in the morning. Tried a damp 7A slab for a while, but to no avail. Then filmed one problem at Down Tor in the afternoon. Head to Cornwall in the evening.
Thurs: First day at Godrevy - some easier stuff in the Gullies and a steep 7A. Stretches.
Fri: Met with Andy W at Godrevy. Really helpful beta on things :) Did a 7A and a crimpy 7A+ I got totally shut down on in the Summer - psyched! Stretches.
Sat: Carn Brea in the morning for a few hours. Did a 7A and then tried some other harder stuff. Want a longer session here soon! Godrevy in the afternoon with Andy W and some others. Did a 7A+ and tried some harder things that should go... Stretches.
Sun: Drive back to Torquay in the morning. Feeling pretty knackered so nought.

Good week of bouldering, actually starting to tick things! Only downside was that the Cave at Godrevy was dripping so I didn't get to try some of the harder things. Feeling psyched to train more now though :)
Things I'm feeling strong on: slopers and core.
Things I'm feeling weak on: crimps and lock-offs.
 

 

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