[cha1n]

I was going to post a few recommendations as I also have a slightly longer second toe but I've read so many contradictory posts to my opinion that it's making me think that my help is pointless. Just go to a well stocked shop and make sure you try standing on some small edges whilst there.

[Paul B]

I was going to post a few recommendations as I also have a slightly longer second toe but I've read so many contradictory posts to my opinion that it's making me think that my help is pointless. Just go to a well stocked shop and make sure you try standing on some small edges whilst there.

 

Fair enough if for some reason you can't or if your local store doesn't stock a certain model but generally I can't see how threads like this realistically help. Go to a shop.

However, people who intend to go into a store, get fitted and then buy online should prepare to be brained to death with a number 6 cam on the way out by a frustrated worker.

[a dense loner]

Standing on small edges will only be useful if you're going to use the shoe to stand on small edges though. If they're for wall use there's no point, get something comfy pref with rubber on the toe

[boulderingbacon]

Evolv Optimus primes are designed for people with mortens toe and I find the futures and solutions best for my wide feet. Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything.

[Paul B]

Evolv Optimus primes are designed for people with mortens toe and I find the futures and solutions best for my wide feet. Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything.

apart from edges where they feel woeful.

[slackline]

Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything.

apart from edges where they feel woeful.

Isn't that by design though....

By eliminating the edge, The Futura also claims to allow the use of smaller micro edges than a traditional shoe, because the toes can get closer to the rock and there is no rubber to "roll".  Again the shoes live up to their bold claims and can perform well on the tiniest of edges, however it is worth pointing out that by their very nature the shoes will focus all the pressure onto the big toe, which can become quite painful after a few moves.

 So what is the catch? As I said before the Futura has become my main climbing shoe but I'm not about to throw away my other shoes just yet.  There are some situations where having an pointy edge that is to opposite shape to your toes is an advantage, and in those situations a traditional edge will still rule the roost.  Steep bouldering is one of these situations as the point at the front of a pair of heavily downturned shoes makes it so much easier to pull into little flakes.

[boulderingbacon]

Evolv Optimus primes are designed for people with mortens toe and I find the futures and solutions best for my wide feet. Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything.

apart from edges where they feel woeful.

Can't say I've found an edge I can't stand on compared to other shoes. When I was in font I could stand on match stick edges that other much stronger and better climbers in 5.10 velcros couldn't. Fit them very tight and I'm sure they compensate for my crap footwork

[Paul B]

Isn't that by design though....

yes, and I'm not convinced that on true edging i.e. slate, UK limestone, people would pick a pair of futura's over a classically stiff shoe or that they'd perform better than the other shoes mentioned.

To me, they felt incredibly poor compared to my Scarpa Instinct VSs...