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Shoes for longer second toe? (Read 16787 times)

EmilyJoy

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Shoes for longer second toe?
February 23, 2014, 02:32:36 pm
Hiya,

I'm looking to buy some new shoes, as my first pair of evolv elektras are now suffering a bit of wear and tear. I have some problems with my second toes getting painful after climbing, as they're on the lengthy side, and I have fairly narrow feet, so finding a good fit is proving tricky.

Was wondering if anyone with knowledge of a similar situation would have any advice on toe accommodating pairs? I was wondering about evolv rockstars since I already have boot bananas to combat the infamous evolv smell.

Either that or it's a routine operation to shorten the toes...

Cheers

tomtom

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#1 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 23, 2014, 02:36:31 pm
Hi, tried different brands? Normally the diff makes have quite different fits.. My 2nd toe is slightly longer than big and I find most 5:10's are ok. I think Sportivas favour narrower feet but not 100%...

hamsforlegs

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#2 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 23, 2014, 03:07:13 pm
I have narrow feet (for a man), and also lengthy second toes.

I find that some 5.10s are OK (ish), but that Sportiva shoes are the most consistently suitable.
Obviously fit is very personal, but Sportivas are definitely narrower on the whole than other brands I've tried.

EmilyJoy

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#3 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 23, 2014, 07:32:29 pm
Thank you both, branching out with brands definitely a good idea. I've seen sportiva miuras everywhere and I'd like to try some anasazi lv's. Hopefully can beg, borrow and steal to try a few pairs on before buying! Thanks again

Dolly

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#4 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 23, 2014, 07:40:21 pm
Hi, tried different brands? Normally the diff makes have quite different fits.. My 2nd toe is slightly longer than big and I find most 5:10's are ok. I think Sportivas favour narrower feet but not 100%...
+1. My second toe is miles longer and same applies


moose

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#5 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 23, 2014, 08:17:31 pm
+1.  Anasazi VCS and Verde fit well (Blancos don't - too narrow in the forefoot for me).  Sportiva are reliably good fits - oddly the more "aggressive" shoes better fit my funny feet: Miura VS, Miura lace-ups, Katanas and the old Venoms all fit like a glove. 

a dense loner

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#6 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 23, 2014, 08:51:03 pm
Yep sportiva every time for me. I've got 5.10 LV's as well which I only wear on grit, so they haven't seen a scratch in 3 yrs. One thing I did find with shoes was I can't toe hook at all without rubber on the toes it's just way too painful on my second toe. Maybe worth thinking about?

moose

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#7 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 23, 2014, 09:11:50 pm
One thing I did find with shoes was I can't toe hook at all without rubber on the toes it's just way too painful on my second toe. Maybe worth thinking about?

+1 - Anasazi VCS fit well and are good all round shoes but the lack of toe-rubber has occasionally been painful.  Worse though for me are the aggressive Scarpas (Instinct, Boosters etc); they hold my toes, particularly the 2nd, in a clenched position with the knuckles very prominent - even with the toe-rubber I used to end up with painfully bruised toes.

Huffy

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#8 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 23, 2014, 09:31:56 pm
Seems as though you all suffer from Mortons toe!

SA Chris

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#9 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 24, 2014, 09:31:25 am
Isn't it a sign of intelligence? Also prevalent amongst serial killers. The long second toe that is, not intelligence.

duncan

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#10 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 24, 2014, 10:06:21 am


Slim feet with a 'Greek toe'? The epitome of beauty, in Italian Renaissance art at least.

I have a long second toe and narrow heels but wide forefeet. Contrary to the above, I don't find La Sportivas in general and Miuras in particular an especially good fit. 5.10 whites are fairly narrow with a somewhat rounded toe section which work better for me than the more asymmetric Miuras. Typically they are being discontinued but the new pinks are reportedly narrower still. Bad news for me but possibly good for the OP.

As the OP has found, many Evolv shoes also have rounded toes (Primes, Bandits) and often fit well if you have a Morton's.

a dense loner

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#11 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 24, 2014, 11:59:12 am
I refrained from posting the intelligence bit Chris  ;)

SA Chris

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#12 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 24, 2014, 12:11:36 pm
Smart move :)

shurt

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#13 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 24, 2014, 12:50:16 pm
another vote for sportivas from someone with greek toes (mine don't bend at all due to a childhood operation).
for the record i'm moderately intelligent and am not a serial killer. am i a piece of rogue data?

slackline

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#14 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 24, 2014, 12:58:42 pm
Two toes on each foot >= big toe, but wide feet and I've found Sportivas to be too narrow when trying them on*.  Until recently I've gone with Boreal Cruxes which when sized correctly were pretty comfortable.  Recently switched to Scarpa Vapor V's as I wanted something a bit stiffer and more technical and am now on my third pair.

I've never been able to get my feet in climbing shoes without curling my toes though (and I've tried, but the extra length required going up sizes makes them pretty useless).




* Although I did just about manage a day wearing my friends Muira's which were a size too small when I left my shoes at the crag in Mallorca.  Despite some friendly Germans picking them up and returning them to a bush just next to the car park I didn't get them back....


Your English Shoes by slack---line, on Flickr

i.munro

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#15 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 24, 2014, 01:57:47 pm


Slim feet with a 'Greek toe'? The epitome of beauty, in Italian Renaissance art at least.




So pleased!  & katanas or even better anything by EB if you can find 'em.

Fadanoid

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#16 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 24, 2014, 02:26:54 pm
I was always advised to buy boreals as I have these greek toes too.

mindfull

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#17 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 25, 2014, 06:57:26 am
 :popcorn: Feet fetishism, I like it.

IMO 5.10 Anasazi verde works very good, for most types of feet. Probably the new pinkies are the same. My leftie is a bit bigger than my right but still could them fit well. Evolv shamans were not so good in this regard, but are more technical.

Difficult to say, but fit them closely at the shop.

tomtom

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#18 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 25, 2014, 07:01:27 am
I was always advised to buy boreals as I have these greek toes too.

I find Boreals comfortable too ((good for wide feet as well) but sadly also find them shit... (durability and grip) :9

slackline

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#19 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 25, 2014, 07:20:46 am

IMO 5.10 Anasazi verde works very good, for most types of feet.

You have experience of multiple pairs of feet?  :???:

Mine only stretches to one pair.  :P

mindfull

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#20 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 25, 2014, 10:51:29 am

IMO 5.10 Anasazi verde works very good, for most types of feet.

You have experience of multiple pairs of feet?  :???:

Mine only stretches to one pair.  :P

Would love to have multiple pair, but seriously, these things are discussed from time to time in between climbing partners   :)

slackline

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#21 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 25, 2014, 11:10:28 am
Yes, but perhaps, by chance alone, you have friends who get on with Anasazi Verde.  I bet I could find a group who don't.  ;)

mindfull

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#22 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 25, 2014, 07:26:13 pm
We did slacks. One female and two males who climb together. Cannot help this. The two males also buy more technical shoes (Evolv shaman) which we discus on the subject of the wear of the rubber. I may dump lots of bullshit but it is all true  :tumble:

slackline

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#23 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 26, 2014, 09:23:43 am
Its not bullshit and I didn't say it wasn't true, its just a very small sample out of the total number of people who wear climbing shoes, as is the sum of replies here (i.e. sampling ;) ).

The best thing to find shoes that fit isn't to ask on forums what others find comfortable, its to go to a decent climbing shop with knowledgeable staff and try on a range of shoes (and try a little climbing in them on whatever facilities they have), because even if there is a consensus amongst your friends or replies here everyone has unique feet and the what suits one person (or group) might not fit another individual (plus it helps support local climbing shops which are an invaluable resource  :goodidea: )

Fadanoid

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#24 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 28, 2014, 10:54:38 am
I was always advised to buy boreals as I have these greek toes too.

I find Boreals comfortable too ((good for wide feet as well) but sadly also find them shit... (durability and grip) :9

I try to kid myself that having less grippy shoes forces me to concentrate on using my feet as best as I can.
When I did science friction years ago I was trying it in boreal (stingers or zens I think...) and was slowly slipping off the holds much to everyone's amusement. I then put on a mates Anasazi velcros and flew up it, not moving on any of the holds.

Pretty sure it was the long haired fella (brian may look-a-like) from 'Rock on' years ago that said I should stick to European shoe manufacturers as this greek toe thing is more common in Europe and they tend to be wider fitting shoes.

cha1n

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#25 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 28, 2014, 03:56:28 pm
I was going to post a few recommendations as I also have a slightly longer second toe but I've read so many contradictory posts to my opinion that it's making me think that my help is pointless. Just go to a well stocked shop and make sure you try standing on some small edges whilst there.

Paul B

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#26 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
February 28, 2014, 04:00:42 pm
I was going to post a few recommendations as I also have a slightly longer second toe but I've read so many contradictory posts to my opinion that it's making me think that my help is pointless. Just go to a well stocked shop and make sure you try standing on some small edges whilst there.

 :agree:

Fair enough if for some reason you can't or if your local store doesn't stock a certain model but generally I can't see how threads like this realistically help. Go to a shop.

However, people who intend to go into a store, get fitted and then buy online should prepare to be brained to death with a number 6 cam on the way out by a frustrated worker.

a dense loner

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#27 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
March 01, 2014, 05:46:51 pm
Standing on small edges will only be useful if you're going to use the shoe to stand on small edges though. If they're for wall use there's no point, get something comfy pref with rubber on the toe

boulderingbacon

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#28 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
March 10, 2014, 11:38:04 pm
Evolv Optimus primes are designed for people with mortens toe and I find the futures and solutions best for my wide feet. Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything.

Paul B

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#29 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
March 10, 2014, 11:52:33 pm
Evolv Optimus primes are designed for people with mortens toe and I find the futures and solutions best for my wide feet. Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything.

apart from edges where they feel woeful.

slackline

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#30 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
March 11, 2014, 07:10:54 am
Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything.

apart from edges where they feel woeful.

Isn't that by design though....




Quote
By eliminating the edge, The Futura also claims to allow the use of smaller micro edges than a traditional shoe, because the toes can get closer to the rock and there is no rubber to "roll".  Again the shoes live up to their bold claims and can perform well on the tiniest of edges, however it is worth pointing out that by their very nature the shoes will focus all the pressure onto the big toe, which can become quite painful after a few moves.

 So what is the catch? As I said before the Futura has become my main climbing shoe but I'm not about to throw away my other shoes just yet.  There are some situations where having an pointy edge that is to opposite shape to your toes is an advantage, and in those situations a traditional edge will still rule the roost.  Steep bouldering is one of these situations as the point at the front of a pair of heavily downturned shoes makes it so much easier to pull into little flakes.

boulderingbacon

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#31 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
March 13, 2014, 10:44:28 pm
Evolv Optimus primes are designed for people with mortens toe and I find the futures and solutions best for my wide feet. Futuras mould to your feet like a glove and stick to everything.

apart from edges where they feel woeful.
Can't say I've found an edge I can't stand on compared to other shoes. When I was in font I could stand on match stick edges that other much stronger and better climbers in 5.10 velcros couldn't. Fit them very tight and I'm sure they compensate for my crap footwork

Paul B

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#32 Re: Shoes for longer second toe?
March 19, 2014, 02:05:33 pm
Isn't that by design though....

yes, and I'm not convinced that on true edging i.e. slate, UK limestone, people would pick a pair of futura's over a classically stiff shoe or that they'd perform better than the other shoes mentioned.

To me, they felt incredibly poor compared to my Scarpa Instinct VSs...

 

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