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is it possible? (Read 15071 times)

rginns

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#25 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 11:24:22 am
My view - expanded on here - is that the significant improvements in standards tend to come with making changes at a social level, leaving your job, moving close to a world-class bouldering area, choosing to climb with people for whom 8A is fairly routine, for example.
Can and are you willing to make these kind of changes?

Basically, just move to Lancashire

a dense loner

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#26 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 11:44:13 am
Chris I was basing my assumption that bedrock was near grit, I was thinking of dumby or wales when I wrote "another country". Not that dumbys a country. I didn't mention Northumberland since people always go on about purely belter and the crack, which are good standard 7c's by most accounts.

JohnM

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#27 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 12:41:41 pm
Maybe 7C would be a better goal to aim for initially?  It would be very easy to get disheartened if you set the goal as high as 8A with a current base level of 7A+.

tim palmer

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#28 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 01:12:52 pm
I don't know if it is a realistic goal but I think if you live in Edinburgh Dumby is a great place to go through the grades up to 8a (and if you can hang the starting holds of the joker then it should suit you), lots of basic problems which you can whittle away at and just enough at each grade so you can consolidate a bit too.

If you want to climb 8a on grit, stick to Yorkshire, far more quality, basic 8as than in the peak.
 

LB1782

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#29 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 01:47:09 pm
choosing to climb with people for whom 8A is fairly routine, for example.

If you're in Edinburgh Alien Rock 2 is (¿was?) a pretty decent meet place to syked folk keen to train, push grades and share lift the Dumby/the County. Must have been more than a handful operating >= 8A too; not so sure about just now.

Oldmanmatt

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#30 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 01:55:12 pm
I have finished one 8A. It took me months of trying two or three times a week. I just tried each move, worked out my weaknesses in each context and practiced similar moves (ish) on the wall and hunted around for similar but easier problems.

This lead to a general improvement in my overall climbing and lead me to keep trying (and failing) at many other hard problems. I think (hope?) if I had been able to continue to dedicate the amount of time I had then, even at my advanced age I would have been able to at least try a few dream problems.

I don't understand why anyone would not try?

Is there any embarrassment at failing?

Does it matter?

Only to you and you decide how much.

SA Chris

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#31 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 02:32:54 pm
If you're in Edinburgh Alien Rock 2 is (¿was?) a pretty decent meet place to syked folk keen to train, push grades and share lift the Dumby/the County. Must have been more than a handful operating >= 8A too; not so sure about just now.

And Rodma :)

Nibile

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#32 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 02:40:17 pm
With respect to moving, quitting job and boyfriend, finding a psyched bunch of uberwads, my experience is completely different. I climbed my first 8a at 35, and even though I was coming from a slightly higher bouldering level than 7a/+, I had a job, a non climbing girlfriend, a non existing climbing scene, one hour drives to the boulders and no climbing walls, just a fingerboard and a crappy campusboard.
Briefly, it will be hard, very hard, but probably you don't need to build your life around it.

LB1782

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#33 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 02:42:42 pm
And Rodma :)

He must be in the region of 5ft7 and 58kg too

Johnny Brown

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#34 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 03:31:15 pm
Quote
The crack seems to be more like 7c+ (I think it was upgraded in the current guide but it was always considered 7c+).

If it was in the Peak it would 7B+, 7c tops, though I know folk who'd say it was more like 7B.

roddersm

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#35 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 03:50:54 pm
With respect to moving, quitting job and boyfriend, finding a psyched bunch of uberwads, my experience is completely different. I climbed my first 8a at 35, and even though I was coming from a slightly higher bouldering level than 7a/+, I had a job, a non climbing girlfriend, a non existing climbing scene, one hour drives to the boulders and no climbing walls, just a fingerboard and a crappy campusboard.
Briefly, it will be hard, very hard, but probably you don't need to build your life around it.

Any tips on how you did it?

SA Chris

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#36 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 04:13:28 pm
With respect to moving, quitting job and boyfriend, finding a psyched bunch of uberwads, my experience is completely different. I climbed my first 8a at 35, and even though I was coming from a slightly higher bouldering level than 7a/+, I had a job, a non climbing girlfriend, a non existing climbing scene, one hour drives to the boulders and no climbing walls, just a fingerboard and a crappy campusboard.
Briefly, it will be hard, very hard, but probably you don't need to build your life around it.

Any tips on how you did it?

GET PSYCHED!!!!!!!!


Nibile

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#37 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 04:55:56 pm
I was quite psyched indeed.
I've always been a great fan of training and commitment, so for me it came very natural, but of course it was hard (and boring).
For or five sessions a week, just on a fingerboard and a home made campusboard is not particularly fun, no matter how loud you play "The Real Thing" soundtrack...
Somehow things worked. I was following a training plan made by a professional trainer.
And I was nowhere as strong as I am now/was a few years ago.
Of course I chose a problem that played to my strengths: crimpy roof.
And of course after my first 8a I went back to normal service, it took me a while to do another one.

Sloper

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#38 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 04:58:26 pm
I've been climbing on/off 10yrs but last 3 yrs 4-5 times a week, mainly bouldering.
I'm 32,female, 5ft7, 58kg and can currently boulder outdoors 7a/7a+ in a couple of sessions.
My aim - boulder 8a.
My question - possible?

Maybe.  Why not just set yourself the goal of claimbing as hard as you can, that way if you 'only' manage 7c+ you'll still be happy.


tomtom

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#39 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 05:11:29 pm
It took me about 2-3 years to get from 7A/7A+ to 7C. I did this about a year ago and I'm 44...

I did this by being very focused on the problems I tried - I would try a few likely candidates at the grade I was going for and then focus on the ones that I felt closest to (ie no complete shutdown move) and that I felt I could feasibly work over a period of time. And the quality/feel of the problem meant alot too.. anyway what I'm trying to say is that I focused on just one or two problems and then worked and worked and worked them until they went... For me this was along the lines of

Demon wall roof (7A+)
Underhand (7B+)
Keel (7C)

In between DWR and underhand I managed to get Seans Arete in a day (7B) and on the way to the Keel I managed a couple of 7B's (Boyager, Tracking - and one on Sandstone) but I was pretty focused on those target problems. I don't train much (I find it very boring) but have done some problem specific training (locking off on Left arm for underhand - lots of side core exercises for the Keel).

I've now got my eyes on 8A - and have Ironman at Trowbarrow earmarked as its a (soft) 8A extension to the 7C Vitruvian man - my logic being to work and do the 7C then do the extension. As it happens I'm no-where near the 7C :D and hurt my back up there last visit - so suspect that plan may be shelved... anyway, some insights into my modus operandi..

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#40 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 06:19:22 pm
I've been climbing on/off 10yrs but last 3 yrs 4-5 times a week, mainly bouldering.
I'm 32,female, 5ft7, 58kg and can currently boulder outdoors 7a/7a+ in a couple of sessions.
My aim - boulder 8a.
My question - possible?
Honestly - Maybe, but there's no way to know unless you commit yourself to it 100%.   

For a couple of helpful pointers, I'd say take a very long view and set short term incremental goals. 
For example:
2014 - your first 7B,
2015 - your first 7B+, 2 7B's
2016 - your first 7C, 2 7B+'s, and 5 7B's
2017 - your first 7C+, 2 7C's, etc....
2018 - 8A!

Also, for your first of each grade find a local problem that inspries you.  It will help with your motivation and continued interest in the problem as you work it.

tim palmer

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#41 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 07:31:43 pm
Maybe, but there's no way to know unless you commit yourself to it 100%.   

With respect to moving, quitting job and boyfriend, finding a psyched bunch of uberwads, my experience is completely different. I climbed my first 8a at 35, and even though I was coming from a slightly higher bouldering level than 7a/+, I had a job, a non climbing girlfriend, a non existing climbing scene, one hour drives to the boulders and no climbing walls, just a fingerboard and a crappy campusboard.
Briefly, it will be hard, very hard, but probably you don't need to build your life around it.

As Nibile said I am not sure 100% commitment is what is required, training (bouldering indoors in a non-structured way) two to three days in the week, doing some other cardio and trying to get out at the weekend has been enough for me, but everyone differs obviously

abarro81

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#42 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 07:35:57 pm
You boulderers are so lazy  :ras:

Sasquatch

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#43 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 07:48:55 pm
Maybe, but there's no way to know unless you commit yourself to it 100%.   

With respect to moving, quitting job and boyfriend, finding a psyched bunch of uberwads, my experience is completely different. I climbed my first 8a at 35, and even though I was coming from a slightly higher bouldering level than 7a/+, I had a job, a non climbing girlfriend, a non existing climbing scene, one hour drives to the boulders and no climbing walls, just a fingerboard and a crappy campusboard.
Briefly, it will be hard, very hard, but probably you don't need to build your life around it.

As Nibile said I am not sure 100% commitment is what is required, training (bouldering indoors in a non-structured way) two to three days in the week, doing some other cardio and trying to get out at the weekend has been enough for me, but everyone differs obviously

Nib's level of commitment is at about 1000% of what a normal person considers 100%, so when he says it will be very hard, I find most people don't have the level of commitment to try that hard.  Maybe I'm too harsh on others, but that's what I see.  I bet Nibs has a better diet, watches less TV, and is generally more disciplined than 99% of climbers.  Committing 100% doesn't mean you have to move.  It does mean that you have to set priorities and climbing/training should be in the top 3.  TV, Movies, Nights out on the town, etc. all take a back seat.  That doesn't mean never, it does mean if you have to choose, you know which wins. 

As far as your experience in getting to 8A, two things- #1 that's rare.  #2 the equivalent for males would be 8B/+.  What would it take for you to get there?  Or for Nibs for that matter? (don't know if he has or not)

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#44 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 08:04:14 pm
Quote from: Sasquatch link=topic=23751.msg438670#msg438670

As far as your experience in getting to 8A, two things- #1 that's rare.  #2 the equivalent for males would be 8B/+.  What would it take for you to get there?  Or for Nibs for that matter? (don't know if he has or not)

Palmer is already there!

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#45 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 08:10:59 pm
Then he's a mutant  :whistle:

I forget how many wicked strong guys are on this forum......

a dense loner

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#46 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 08:33:13 pm
But I bet Tim didn't get there training 2-3 days a wk, Tim? Yes he has the ability to do that now since he's been climbing at that level there or thereabouts for so long but I really can't see that type of training got him there.

tim palmer

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#47 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 08:41:48 pm
Yes, no word of a lie, plus a session outdoors, at the most.  But I also keep reasonably fit.  But I think my indoor sessions are of better quality than most people's despite lacking structure

rodma

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#48 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 08:49:38 pm
If you're in Edinburgh Alien Rock 2 is (¿was?) a pretty decent meet place to syked folk keen to train, push grades and share lift the Dumby/the County. Must have been more than a handful operating >= 8A too; not so sure about just now.

And Rodma :)

Hahaha

Quite right, there are about tenish (actually probably more)guys operating around the 8a mark, a bunch of Poseurs, has beens and never has beens, all climbing at alien 2. Some of the above list are actually just the same people

Even Dr Tim pops back in occasionally.

Being surrounded by strong ish people definitely changes your perception of what is normal.

I'm about the same height and weight as you as someone pointed out,  but I'd expect that we Will be built a little differently :)

Other people's suggestions of styles/venues for problems have been Good so no need for any further input from a grumpy never-was.

Good luck

a dense loner

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#49 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 09:04:33 pm
I very nearly said but Tim probably will have done this, damn. There are a few people out there that are the exception to the rule but most people recognise their freakish talent pretty soon.
Like beadle on the other hand we have the jap woman who did carthasis(?) 8b+ who had no previous decent, comparative, ticks under her belt. The same with the guy that repeated tonino 78 8c with his previous best being the stand start at 8a+. Both these problems were obviously done out of sheer bloodymindedness and a war of attrition.
I think what I'm trying to say is nobody has a clue what they're talking about when it comes to the willpower of another person, most of all me.

 

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