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is it possible? (Read 15072 times)

bedrock

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is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 11:45:28 am
I've been climbing on/off 10yrs but last 3 yrs 4-5 times a week, mainly bouldering.
I'm 32,female, 5ft7, 58kg and can currently boulder outdoors 7a/7a+ in a couple of sessions.
My aim - boulder 8a.
My question - possible?

tomtom

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#1 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 11:59:42 am
Yes!

a dense loner

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#2 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 12:21:59 pm
Are you fit? If so don't bother 7a+ is more than enough, and if you can fit into some tight shorts I've got some shoes you could help me sell?
If you solely want to climb 8a you would be better picking a few you like and finding out about the moves on them, type of holds etc. basically doing your homework on them. Try them every so often to see how you're faring. Or the purists on here would say get good at everything

Monolith

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#3 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 12:52:22 pm
Are you fit? If so don't bother 7a+ is more than enough, and if you can fit into some tight shorts I've got some shoes you could help me sell?

Don't feel intimidated bedrock. Dense is just a little antsy that he doesn't have enough models for his Printemps 2014 show yet.



Perhaps the great fashionista speaks sense of a problem-specific attitude? Compare and contrast an 8a on one rock type to the next and then individual ability from one rock type to the next. Although I clearly understand the approach whereby you ought to become a master of your craft across all rock types, it's not always practicable given time constraints/weather etc.

Do you have a few in mind bedrock?

andyd

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#4 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 03:59:10 pm
I've been climbing on/off 10yrs but last 3 yrs 4-5 times a week, mainly bouldering.
I'm 32,female, 5ft7, 58kg and can currently boulder outdoors 7a/7a+ in a couple of sessions.
My aim - boulder 8a.
My question - possible?

If you have the time and motivation then yes. Just read up on training tips to avoid injury.

Nibile

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#5 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 05:00:27 pm
At the risk of sounding/being rude, I'll be sincere:
why do you ask others?
It's obviously possible, as long as you start it now.
Every day you procrastinate makes it a little less possible and a little harder.
So, don't ask if it's possible. Just make it possible.

petejh

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#6 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 06:22:53 pm
It's definitely possible to fail trying, and you might even succeed. Either way you'll improve.

moose

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#7 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 06:28:41 pm
I can't remember whether or not I have enough milk in my fridge to see me through tomorrow, or whether I should pop to the shops on the way home for a resupply.  Can someone please tell me what to do, or at least offer a few platitudes to reassure me ("you can always use any excess milk to make rice pudding", "coffee is best black" that kind of thing).

or in other words..... only you know your own situation, and only you can do anything about it.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2014, 06:35:25 pm by moose »

petejh

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#8 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 06:43:34 pm
 ::)

Coffee is best black.

tomtom

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#9 is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 07:02:27 pm
Oof - you guys are brutal! Someone fairly new to the forum (based on posts) gets this?

moose

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#10 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 07:17:50 pm
Aye... I'm sorry for any hurt caused.... but if after 10ys of climbing, 3 years intensely, someone doesn't know their own capabilities well enough to render the opinions of remote strangers redundant, what hope is there?  [That said, I admit I'm in a bad mood - post-holiday plans for tearing it up on rock ended up with lots of driving around and two sessions at the wall].

Slightly more positive / useful advice (I hope) - have you considered paying for a coaching session / holiday? A decent coach should be able to identify your weaknesses and advise on the best physical training strategies to work them - and also provide strategy tips for the siege process (at least as important for routes, possibly less so for boulders - but still important).  The one-off cost might seems a lot but if this is a project you're prepared to devote years of your life to, it might be a sound investment (climbing is rare in that the elite are so approachable or cheaply bought - try getting cycling coaching from David Brailesford and Cav, or a football lesson from a Premier League player for around £100!).  It might not get you to 8a, but it would provide reassurance that your efforts are in the right direction.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2014, 07:31:09 pm by moose »

thekettle

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#11 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 07:27:39 pm
It's definitely possible. Here's an article on my journey to 7C+ on two sessions a week, and that's when older, heavier and shorter than you!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5597

rosmat

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#12 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 07:38:55 pm
Oof - you guys are brutal! Someone fairly new to the forum (based on posts) gets this?

+1 these responses are more like what I would expect from UKC not UKB! What's going on?

To the OP:
Let’s not forget that font 8A is really hard even these days, much harder than climbing 8a routes.

Personally I think it is theoretically possible, but it depends on a number of factors, including but not limited to:

1.) How dedicated you are, and whether you enjoy training (i.e. have a training mentality).
2.) How much time you have to dedicate to your goal.
3.) Your knowledge of training and how best to approach it - specific to you.
4.) Your susceptibility to injury - climbing 8A generally requires a lot of hard and intensive training. Whether or not your body can handle such training without injury is important. It seems to vary a lot from person to person - and depends on a various factors including things such as training history, genetics, ability to recover etc.
5.) Good sleep
6.) Good food

If you have all of the above then I think it's probably possible. But it takes a lot, so whilst it theoretically possible........

a dense loner

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#13 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 08:27:46 pm
Oof I'm offended if anyone thinks my post was harsh. I merely want to sell some shoes and the rest of my post can't be faulted. It's just right.
Personally if I was bedrock I'd be more insulted by other posts, there's a no blame culture here, where questions have been asked that were obviously answered in bedrocks opening statement. I'd think the replyee hadn't read a word I'd said.
1) how dedicated are you and do you enjoy training?
Answer: not very dedicated I've just bouldered 4-5 times a wk for the last 3 yrs, the other 2-3 days I can't be arsed
2) how much time do you have to dedicate to your goal?
Answer: Well apart from the 4-5 days a wk I boulder I've got 3 wks left
3) training etc
Answer: I'm a woman and I boulder 7a+ in a couple of sessions, I think I might not be too bad at training
4) injury etc
Answer: I've bouldered 4-5 days a wk for 3 yrs, do you think I get injured more than most?
5) lifestyle choice
6) lifestyle choice
As for nibile's reply he's Italian, but in a good way.

petejh

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#14 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 09:04:13 pm
  :lol: :lol:

Is it possible for Dense to go from 4-5 days per week of being the go-to guy for witty forum comebacks, to stand-up comedian and panel show regular?

Teaboy

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#15 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 09:50:45 pm
there's a no blame culture here

Who's fault is that?

duncan

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#16 Re: is it possible?
February 23, 2014, 10:19:59 pm
My view - expanded on here - is that the significant improvements in standards tend to come with making changes at a social level, leaving your job, moving close to a world-class bouldering area, choosing to climb with people for whom 8A is fairly routine, for example.

Can and are you willing to make these kind of changes?




a dense loner

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#17 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 05:48:25 am
I haven't read Duncan's link but the topics covered are all major factors. Pick your rock type carefully, for instance if you climb on grit it's worth noting that the only 2 British women to have climbed 8a in Britain, both of whom are world class climbers with probably upwards of 40 8a's or harder have only done one 8a each on grit. As far as I'm aware both statements are correct. You will prob have to go farther afield for good projects, be it another country unless you like lime.
You will have to climb to your strengths obviously. So if the crowd you climb with all like doing slabby problems and you like overhanging monos then you'll have to get new friends. If they like sitting around at a crag having a brew chatting for hours you'll have to get new friends.
If you work you will probably have to give up your job. Everyone seems to be doing it so don't worry.
What grade does your boyfriend climb? If you've not got one get one! Who else's shoulder are you going to cry on when you could do the problem last Tuesday but you can't do it today? If you've got one already you will have to go higher up the food chain. I'd say a 7c climber first for the groundwork then as you get better change him out for at least an 8a+ climber.
That's got most of the base's covered I think.

bedrock

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#18 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 08:58:00 am
OK so after double checking this is UKB and not UKC....

What a great (and random) set of replies. Basically I need to:
1. get rid of the boyfriend (I climb better than him) and find one that climbs harder
2. purchase hot pants and sports bra (this will make achieving point 1 easier)
3. avoid grit (damn it - had my eye on The Joker. Can hang off the start holds at least  :))
4. believe I can do it
5. train  :weakbench:

I suppose my question really was is 8a achievable for the serious but 'hobby' female climber? The consensus seems to be it is better to try and fail than not try at all....
I'm about to start a PhD in Edinburgh so will have more time than ever to dedicate to training (currently have a hefty OOH rota which affects time being able to spend projecting/training).

Watch this space I guess... :popcorn:

SA Chris

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#19 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 08:59:42 am
You will prob have to go farther afield for good projects, be it another country unless you like lime.

Are there only 2 rock types in the whole of the UK? Unless you know where this person lives?

SA Chris

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#20 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 09:07:36 am
I'm about to start a PhD in Edinburgh

Kind of answers my earlier post - so chose your poison; either something on Northumberland Sandstone, or Dumbarton Rock. Find one that suits your abilites and seige it.

I suppose my question really was is 8a achievable for the serious but 'hobby' female climber?

I'm sure worldwide there are dozens who have, no reason why you cant?

abarro81

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#21 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 09:33:13 am
If you can hang the holds on the joker but only climb 7a+ then I'd target your training at getting better at climbing rather than getting strong!

shark

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#22 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 09:56:08 am
OK so after double checking this is UKB and not UKC....

What a great (and random) set of replies. Basically I need to:
1. get rid of the boyfriend (I climb better than him) and find one that climbs harder
2. purchase hot pants and sports bra (this will make achieving point 1 easier)
3. avoid grit (damn it - had my eye on The Joker. Can hang off the start holds at least  :))
4. believe I can do it
5. train  :weakbench:

I suppose my question really was is 8a achievable for the serious but 'hobby' female climber? The consensus seems to be it is better to try and fail than not try at all....
I'm about to start a PhD in Edinburgh so will have more time than ever to dedicate to training (currently have a hefty OOH rota which affects time being able to spend projecting/training).

Watch this space I guess... :popcorn:

Good post. You can do everything you can to maximise your potential and if that potential allows you to climb 8A then it is possible. The only thing that is outside your control is your bodies genetic response to training and to smaller extent injury (which is usually avoidable). Im sure there is a good hard bouldering scene at Dumbarton that you can plug into. Also 7 day a week training is counter productive for strength training for anyone other than world class climbers and even a lot of them focus on quality rather than quantity (notably Jan Hojer)

It is quite likely that burl will be a weaker point (especially if you can hang the Joker holds) so upper body / pull-up training will be a useful thing to focus on.

And obviously ditch your loser boyfriend  ;)
« Last Edit: February 24, 2014, 10:01:14 am by shark »

Johnny Brown

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#23 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 10:20:18 am
If you're Edinburgh-based you're sorted. Are Purely Belter and The Crack still both in the guide at 8A?

bendavison

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#24 Re: is it possible?
February 24, 2014, 10:35:33 am
If you're Edinburgh-based you're sorted. Are Purely Belter and The Crack still both in the guide at 8A?

Yes, but Purely Belter is not considered 8a by everyone I have asked, seems to range from 7b+ - 7c+. The crack seems to be more like 7c+ (I think it was upgraded in the current guide but it was always considered 7c+).

To the OP: I think that its worth a good go at! Just don't try and rush too much, there's no shortcuts. Sounds like working class might be suit you (sounds like you've got strong fingers!). It's 8a+ in the guide mind, but worth a play.

 

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