UKBouldering.com

UKB Power Club Week 209 Mon 10th Feb - Sun 16th Feb (Read 7490 times)

Luke Owens

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
Did plenty of training this week, feeling really fit on the routes at the moment. Doing plenty of Aerocap training and it's helping me loads. I've gone from getting completely powered out and boxed half way up 6b+'s (2 months ago) to not even needing to shake out on 7a's at the wall. Bizarre but feels great!

I feel like I should have a good chance at some harder on-sights this year.

Monday: Light Aerocap - 30 minutes & 1 hour stretching

Tuesday:
Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips

Off-set Pull Ups: 2 x 6 Reps 2 x 7 Reps 2 x 10 Reps

3 x 10 Hammer Curls
3 x 10 Dubbell Front Raises (10kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises

Evening Session: Hit the Boardroom with Ally for some 4x4's.
Warm up: 5+, 6a, 6b+

4x4's - Set 1: 4 x 6b+ (Steep), Set 2: 4 x 6b (Technical), Set 3: 4 x 6b+ (Fingery), Set 4: 4 x 6b+ (Fingery)

Stretching for 1 hour

Wednesday:
Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pull-ups, 10 Dips

Weighted Deadhangs (Front 3, open hand, 20mm edge)
Progressive set: 2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg -10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
Main set: 10kg - 10 secs, 10kg - 10 secs, 12.5kg - 10 secs

Evening Session: Light Aerocap - 30 minutes

Thursday: Boardroom routes
5, 5+, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c+, 7a, 7a, 6c+ (Everything felt easy, didn't get pumped at all...?!)
Warm Down - 6 x V3/V4

Friday:
12 Wide Grip Pull-ups, 10 Dips

Weighted Deadhangs (Front 3, open hand, 20mm edge)
Progressive Set: 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs
Main Set: 3 x 12.5kg - 10secs, 15kg - 9secs (PB!)

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Ran around on the beach with the little one

Muesli

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 134
  • Karma: +7/-0
Good week
Full five days cycle commute
weight 78.3kg
Three wall sessions (MWF)
2 core/antagonist sessions (MF)
2 fingerboard repeaters sessions (Tu,Sat)


finger joint aches much reduced

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
Did plenty of training this week, feeling really fit on the routes at the moment. Doing plenty of Aerocap training and it's helping me loads. I've gone from getting completely powered out and boxed half way up 6b+'s (2 months ago) to not even needing to shake out on 7a's at the wall. Bizarre but feels great!
Glad to hear it's working!!

STG - Trip to Red River Gorge 1st week of March - OS 5.13a, RP multiple 5.13's. 
MTG - 8B FA
LTG - To Bolt or Not To Be / Mandala

M - Moonboard Bouldering-3x7C+, 2x7C, 3x7B+, 5x7A, 13x6B.  Foot On Campusing 5 x 2:00min. Very Hard Session..
T - Aerocap 45min
W - Max Hangs, Foot On Campusing 5 x 2:00min. Pullup Pyramid (121 total) Very Hard Session.....
Th - Yoga at Lunch
F - Max Hangs - WU felt ok, then almost instantly felt like crap, fingers, arms and body all felt wrecked, and mentally I was exhausted.  Finally crossed the line, so sacked off workout.  Went out drinking with Brother and Sister, home late.
S - Skiied with Daughter, then very late night(5am) W/ Loads of Drinking.
S - Hungover with only 3-4 hrs of sleep.... , Ripped out Entryway and kitchen floor to prep for Tiling.

I said last week that I was walking then line, and I only had 5 more days to get through.  Well I managed 4 of the five :)  Taper time and we'll see how my body feely next week.

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5029
  • Karma: +141/-13
Mon. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Board struggling with poor skin didn't do much.
Wed. Dumbbell workout before work. Home early to go to funeral. Board circuit of 6 problems after warming up 5 laps,first for with screw on footholds. Turbo 1 hour.
Thu. Turbo 1 hour.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Nothing out all day with the missus.
Sun. Board working projects, the repeated a few things. Bike 3 hrs 29 mins 60.50 miles.
Weight tue 11st 2 lbs down another pound.

mindfull

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 174
  • Karma: +2/-1
    • Blog
Moved houses.

MO:
Endurance(routes)
5a5a5a5aVE
5b5b5bOH
5c5c5cVE
6a6aOH
6bOH
6a6aVE
5c5cOH
5b5b5bVE

TUE
Power Endurance
5b-5c-6a-6b-6c-7a

around 64kg all week because of stress.

EdGowSmith

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 230
  • Karma: +44/-0
7A:    1/50
7A+:  0/40
7B:    0/30
7B+:  0/20
7C:    0/10

I've temporarily misplaced / lost my training diary and my memory is crap so not sure how accurate this'll be!

Stretching: 3/4 :(

Mon: Skin not great, manage a short board session however.
Tues: Good training session at the Bunker with Ellis. Basically showing how weak I still am! Stretches.
Wed: Slacklining and then a good evening session at the Bunker. Trying two projects: a very powerful wooden V10/11 and a slopey and dynamic V9/harder. Getting close on the easier one but haven't managed the first move on the harder one yet! Stretches.
Thurs: Head up to Dartmoor after school in the hope of completing the V6 I tried on Sunday. Alas the weather was shit again, went and sat in the car...
Fri: Head up to the Chilterns after school.
Sat: 50km hike / race. Managed some stretches in the evening.
Sun: Feeling fucked, slept all day.

It's half term now so I might actually be able to get out and climb - going Dartmoor and then Godrevy :)

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal