From the rockclimbingUK archive, as explained
here. A PDF of the article as originally formatted for the website is
here.
Boreal have arranged for us to interview their team climber Nacho Sanchez. Nacho is well known in the British climbing scene, after spending some time living in Sheffield. Re-known for having excellent finger strength, Nacho is now living back in Spain where he has not only put up the hardest boulder problems in Spain, but become the Spainish bouldering champion. In this interview Nacho gives us an insight into some of his training techniques.
You are best known as one of the worlds strongest boulderers. What do you consider your greatest bouldering achievements?My two main achievements are the flash of “I shot Sarkonazy assis” (8B) and sending “Insomnio” (8C), I had to work very hard to do it.
As a boulderer how does your training differ from a route specialist?I do not need to spend a lot of time training. In order to get more strength and power it is better to do it when rested, but I usually combine quality sessions with others where I train other aspects.
Do you structure your climbing training in a specific way?Yes, I started following a structured plan three years ago and I improved a lot, so I decided to keep doing it, but changing it frequently. I sometimes just climb, but I usually train with a goal in mind to be strong at a specific moment.
You are known for having excellent crimp strength. Has this been achieved through the use of weighted hangs, such as those developed by Eva Lopez? Can you describe a typical finger board session?Finger strength has always been one of my attributes but it improved a lot thanks to Eva, so weighted hangs are an important part of my training.
After warming-up I usually do from 3 to 5 sets of 5-10 seconds with a lot of weight on big rungs or just a few kilograms on small crimps, resting for 3 minutes.
I’ve seen videos of you training with a weight belt. What level of weight do you add and how do you feel this benefits your climbing?When climbing boulder problems I only add from 2 to 6 Kg, depending on the period and the kind of problems. It is something that is usually done in many other sports so I think it is also good for climbing. Doing so, you get used to a bigger load and when you remove it you feel very light, but it is important to add just the amount of weight so you can move quickly. If you add too much you would have to climb clumsily on big jugs.
How important is a strong core for your climbing? Is your core training based around front lever work or do you add other exercises as well?I think it is really important, especially when you are short, in order to keep very low feet on. I usually do some front lever work, but I add as many exercises as I can imagine to my routine.
You pay particular focus on contact strength in your training (i.e. jumping for a campus rung). What exercises do you feel are best for improving your ability to maintain contact with distant holds?Besides bouldering and trying specific problems with this characteristic, I think jumping from the ground for a campus rung, sloper or crimp, one or two-handed, is a good exercise.
You mention in previous interviews that you spend many hours specifically training technique. Can you describe what you do to improve your technique and how important is it to your climbing?Trying problems on my limit has always been a good way to improve my technique because I have to try many different betas to be able to solve them, but I also do many easier and awkward problems, with different methods, trying to find the most effective way.
Competitions are a big focus for you. How do you prepare for a competition, compared with climbing outdoors?When I prepare for competitions, I try to climb many easier problems, as different as I can imagine, in a few tries, and I give more priority to slopers and volumes compared to periods of climbing outdoors. Reading problems and mental training are very important for competitions, but I have to improve a lot on these fields.
You have spent some time living in the UK. How does climbing training differ in the UK and Spain?The main difference is climbing walls. UK gyms are amazing while in Spain we usually train in very small rooms on too steep ground with big holds. On the other hand, my training is much more productive now, because I used to climb too much when I was living in UK, instead of having some quality sessions.
What are your climbing objectives for 2013?My main objective is to improve everything, as I would like to be a much better climber and competitor. I have got too many hard projects around Madrid, so hopefully I will send some of them. I want to travel more, especially to Ticino, where I have already tried some hard problems and I would like to return and send them.
