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UKB Power Club Week 208 Mon 3rd Feb - Sun 9th Feb (Read 10227 times)

csl

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Goals for Feb

Climb 3x a week 3/3
1x session a week on a rope. 0/1
1x outside - Away skiing for two weekends this month so not sure when I'll manage to fit this in. 0/1 - weather not played ball. Booked trip to Leeds at end of month though so will do this.
7b/E4/7A+ depending on what i do when I get out.

Stay under 75kg. Eat a bit healthier food. 

Goals for Winter

V8/7B indoors/ Get stronger on Boulders - Try and get a V8 by end of Feb.
Book a sport climbing trip - Book Rodellar.

Mon - rest
Tue - Biscuit Factory. New set on the comp wall. Had a few goes on various things from easy to 7b. Didn't really tick much.
Wed - tube strike enforced rest
Thu - Biscuit - Lots of new blues. Did the hard move on Black 7a on comp wall fell off the last move of a few others. Pulled a muscle in my back and sacked it off.
Fri - nothing
Sat - nothing
Sun - Biscuit. Tried Black and Green on comp wall. Progress on both. Repeated white V6 roof. Tried crux of hendrix circuit, v6 roof problem. Fell off last move on second try. Should go if i practise tricky last move a bit. Repeated a few problems v4-6.
Circuit Board. 6a+ x 4. 6a+ x 3.5

Tube strike messed me up a bit this week, will try and stay on it this week even if they strike again. Off skiing from next weekend.


IS2

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STG: Get stronger
        Improve ability to move dynamically
        Build stamina / endurance base for spring

Was aware of becoming tired so sacked off all gym sessions this week to aid recovery from climbing sessions.

Monday: Usual 12x23 m overhanging routes on lead... doing 3/4 back to back ... 6b up to 7a.  Big volume low intensity.

Tuesday: Shoulders and forearm antagonists much bigger focus on stretching.

Wednesday: Board session. Core tension by" fishing" holds on board using Beastmaker grips for each set ( 7 sets) ... 50s hang on each pair of grips " fishing" and using small holds foot holds / toe hooks. 3 rounds of tic tac toe. 3 sets of 20 + move circuits on warm up board. Did all of last weeks problems including dynamic moves across the roof. Very close to crimp problems on main board. 20 mins trying to hang the worst holds. Several problems using the 5mm edges on the warm up board for big moves.

Wednesday: Shoulders and forearm antagonists much bigger focus on stretching.

Thursday: Board session. Similar to Wed but new set of problems on the main board... nearly did one. Realised 5mm holds are probably only 3mm :)

Friday: Rest day...... booked to go to Costa Blanca next week ;D ..... need to climb on real rocks!!

Saturday: Shoulders and forearm antagonists much bigger focus on stretching.

Sunday: Session at bouldering wall... trying to flash problems that are hard for me ( 6c -7a) got a few missed a few but good session.

shark

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11.6-7

M. PM. Systems board. Messed around on small holds then did one set of PE intervals as ran out of time. Eve. Foundry. Snuck in a short session between shuttling kids around. Worked green and black again. Linked going left to top. Unfortunately it was coming down on weds
T. Felt wiped so didn't train
W.Noon. Decided I couldnt face heading out into rain to eatswood so sloped off to Foundry to try Green & Black before it was taken down for comp. Rob there and suggested some beta changes and Dolly showed up .Got good progress and then linked to the last easy move then disciovered Rob had brushed the top tick marks off for the comp. Slapped randomnly and got a slopey bit and came off. Went home and had a nap. Eve. Back again with Poppy - had thought I would be fresh enough after a nap to nail it but no such luck - felt washed out. RIP Green and black spots :-(
T. Felt wiped again so didnt train.
F. PM Warmed up on fingerboard before I went out. Rained before I left. Green streak down West Side when I got there but actual holds on lower wall dry. Bit of rain and sleet but cleared up. Paced myself this time. Got to lurching for porthole twice first time 2in off second time 1in off. Ecstatic. Maybe try putting my right foot higher in crease next time?
S.
S. PM. .Warmup sess on FB. Headed out to WestSide on the off chance but it was soaking. Went to Foundry. Wave just had the comp problems so went on 40deg board. Linked into and did the Oak throw move for the first time :-) also did well on the gaston traverse problem. Got busy so went on the campus board. Close to 1-4-6 on med rungs on both arms and did 1-3-5-7-9 on small rungs again

Outstanding week even if it didnt go to plan. Intended to do more days on but my body was saying no. My best goes on the green and black problem on the Wave and on West Side Story and today on the 40 degree board I think represent my best ever bouldering performances to date.   

Showed great restraint all week. Ate well and no booze. Feeling lean though that's not showing on the scales yet. Normally the weight drops off shortly after when I feel like this.

JackAus

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STG: Fingers then V7 & DWS project.
LTG: V11 in a session.

M-T: Sweet fuck all climbing wise as on Sunday, I tore a deep chunk out of my finger tip. Bleed everywhere when I did it. Was painful to even touch anything, let alone put pressure on it. I did do a few core sessions, light runs and trek through the bush searching for rock. Work late every day.
F: Found mega new boulder crag. Caves, walls and free standing boulders. So much to do and I barely scratched the surface... I think 200+ lines...
S: Hot. Boulder at Lot 33 & 34 with mates from Canberra and Germany. Messed around on a few things before we started trying new line that will be V7. I'd worked on it for a while a couple weeks ago but its a very committing line with a very slopey landing that drops away right next to the pads... 3 pads and 2 spotters are essential! Awesome line that I nearly did (would've got it if I didn't have to leave for work!). One of the Germans (strong guy) actually did it but didn't claim it as he dabbed a spotter on the crux cut loose nearly kicking him off the drop... Work late.
S: Hot. DWS. 2 good attempts on the project. Both felt like good slaps but still feel as though I'm way to short of the lip. Feel like I need to go away and train just for that one move. Just messed around filming the others from in the water. Hard to hold a go pro steady while boat wash and the tide tries to take you down stream! Work for a couple hours in eve.

I'd say pretty rubbish week physically climbing wise but Saturday's session on the project felt awesome. Brilliant problem that I'm really close to. Just don't know when I'll be able to get back on it... Need spotters!!
And finding this crag. Wow, just wow. About to head out there now for a quick couple hours before work. Going to be such a good area that will put Nowra on the map for bouldering, not just for hard old chipped stuff...

i_a_coops

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Right I'm back in the game, partly to motivate Mr CSL to take his non-broken body climbing enough that he can crush with me in Riglos, and partly to maintain enough training psyche for myself to stop him burning me off too much in Rodellar.

Goals: crush in Spain in May, make fingers as steely as possible for Verdon in June, don't aggravate healing patella.
Treat time with dodgy knee (next 4-6 weeks probably) as the rest of a base phase (in Randall-Barrows terminology), prioritising strength, ancap, and a bit of one legged top roping on jugs to maintain some kind of fitness.
If knee and weather allow, do some of the unclimbed things I have my eye on.

M gym. DB complexes, standing rows, machine pull downs, pullups, crunches. punched the bag a bit, felt like Rocky.  :boxing:

T sideways double dyno campusing between campus rungs. Fuck energy systems, this is more fun.

W as tuesday. Probably going to stop this before my bed breaks.

T core, 10 min with no rest

F 20 min attempt at aerocap on 2 campus rungs & jugs with feet on floor. I believe this is the only context in which I will ever listen to euphoric trance.
S half crimp repeaters, felt amazingly light with cast taken off. 9 sets of 6 hangs. Can now do 2 one armers on a jug with good form, this is probably just due to my right thigh wasting away though.

S max hangs as in CWP video, 3cm flat edge with one hand and terrible pinch with other. 15 min aerocap, with more euphoric trance. :dance1:

Psyche for training: high. weight: low. so far so good.

Decided to get scientific on Saturday, for next three or four weeks I'm going to try and do 4 sessions per week split between longer duration hangs, repeaters (as a kind of poor mans ancap), and max hangs, and make sure I do at least 30 min of aerocap per week to avoid mutating into a boulderer, and go to the gym once per week to avoid getting fat. If I'm going to be a punter in Spain I might as well be a ripped punter.

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STG (January February): obtain or build doorway mounting rig for beastmaker.
            Turkish Get-Up w/20kg kettlebell.
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint. Two hundred practice falls by Easter - currently: 15
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. Yesterday's "active rest" ARC session evidently not as restful as intended, because it quickly became apparent that power just wasn't happening today. Socialising ensued. New ticks on current circuit: zero. (Projects on next-harder circuit on which completed all but one move: one)
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. First time on a rope this year. 5c 5c 6a+ 6a 6a 6b+ 6b 5c. Climbing with a new partner so no practice falls.   
T: Knee physio exercises
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. Quick early morning session before work. Successes on project circuit: one. Chances of completing circuit in the week and a half before it gets re-set: low. But that's not the point; the point of working a circuit is to be forced to spend most of one's time trying things one finds hard.
   Knee physio exercises   

S: Climbing! :) Konstein. Typical first route of the season for the warm up: numb fingers, not trusting polished limestone footholds, frightened. Having got that behind me, the rest of the day was much better. My 6c+ project from last year had a streak of bright green moss right through the crux, so started work on another one. Four goes. Third go was a one-hang, but then on the fourth I completely powered out and forgot the sequence. Game over for today. I'm very new to this intentional redpointing malarkey. It's fun.
S:

A good week. Respectable volume of plastic-pulling during the week, then respectable attempts on a route at the hardest grade I've ever attempted on my first day out of the year. Promising.

Stubbs

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Toby, are you sure it's golfer's if it has hung around for so long when you're resting? Quite a few peeps on here have had shoulder impingements which have lead to similar symptoms. 

T_B

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84.6Kg

M - 112 leg pulls (5 sets of 20 + 12), 50 press ups. 2 x 2 mins foot on campussing and 2 x 20-move circuits.
T -
W - CWP - 5 secs and only straight armed, as worried about twinge in right elbow. 50 press ups and 132 leg pulls. No elbow twinges immediately afterwards, but then later.
T - No elbow twinges in the morning. P.M. Works. Did Brown 8a and to the crux of the Green 8b 3 times.
F - in London. Biscuit Factory. General problems, nothing too hard. Hot and rammed...
S - Working
S - A.m. Works. Warmed up in Mini Works then did the 7a, 7b. Then Green 8b, then did it again 10 mins later. Chuffed. Fell off Brown 8a - knackered. A few white problems to finish.

Ended up being quite a full-on week with five sessions. Elbows still not right and could feel them doing a few boulder problems at the end of my sunday sess. Supposed to be switching from PE to bouldering/power this week, but don't know what to do  :shrug: Pysched to have done the green 8b on the Works circuit board.

SA Chris

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STG - weigh 13st 7

M- half hour cardio, half hour beastmaker
T - hour cardio
W - lunchtime yoga for first time since 2012. Struggled a bit - new instructor was working us hard, which was great. I was struggling, bit not too badly. Morning weigh in 13st 7 whoop!
T - triceps in bits from sun salutations, can barely type. Weird. Nothing else
F - Snowboarded all day. Rode hard with mate from work, great day out apart from cloud coming in at one point and  stacking numerous times in zero vis.
S - Not much, bit knackered
S - hour in pool with kids, out on bike for hour and a half in afternoon, hour picking up kids at dry slope, hour cardio in evening. Broken - slept well!
 

tommytwotone

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Short update for me!

STG/LTG: Font 7b

M: 1am saw the arrival of my daughter into the world
Rest of week: dealing with ramifications of M

Nothing worthy of note training-wise this week, Chris' post the other week about priorities with a newborn is bang on the money!


   

kelvin

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Busy time of year for me with exhibition work, so not done a lot in the last two weeks other than long hours, ate badly and lifted heavy stuff.

Diet bad BUT not drank alcohol since the Jan 6th. *I intend to stick with this for a while

So the last two weeks are as follows...

3 x boulder room sessions. This resulted in another V3 flash, little progress on the V4 and an abysmal evening when I was so tired, I couldn't see the moves on V1s  :wavecry:

2 x routes sessions. First one was a joke, I got halfway up and just ran out of juice. Serious PE issues! Then on Friday I managed  - vertical f5 x 3 laps, steep f5 x4, steep 6b+ to halfway, comp wall 6a+ one sit, then next go to the top but couldn't hold last hold. Gutted! That'll go next time. Then seconded a 6c to the 3rd clip, did this 4 times and tonight I'm gonna stick the rope on to try leading it.

Never tried 6c before but I've been flashing V3 a fair bit of late, so hopefully I just need to add some PE - we'll see, it's got to make me stronger for longer if nothing else.

Off to Germany working tomorrow, so won't report for a couple of weeks again.

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M - 112 leg pulls (5 sets of 20 + 12), 50 press ups. 2 x 2 mins foot on campussing and 2 x 20-move circuits.
Tom, just curious: what are leg pulls?

You use a 'Sling trainer'. Basically two slings suspended above, one foot in each so that in push up position your body is horizontal. You then pull your legs forward so that your knees touch your elbows. Great workout for the abs - what I like about it is unlike leg lifts on a bar, you're not having to hang off your arms.

Evil

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STG: Power up for boulder trip end of March.

M - 16 miles cycle commuting. Evening - 10 min fingerboard thing, then elbow exercises.
T - 16 miles cycle commuting. Evening routes at the wall - 5+, 5+, 6a+, 6c (new, couldn't do a move on it), 6c+ (top rope), 6b (new had to rest, tried it twice and still too pumped 2nd time. This was really hard for 6b as even knowing all the moves it felt really hard). Climbing quite badly on the routes at the moment.
W - 16 miles cycle commute during a tube strike and really bad weather = CARNAGE. Survived, did a few pullups and ate lots of food.
T - 16 miles cycle commute. 5k lunchtime run (28:36) very wet on the feet.
F - Light circuit thing in the morning (push-ups, squats, rows etc), then bouldering after work on a new set - managed to do a V5 which suited me/was soft quite quickly. Did some other easier problems too. Tried again on the V4 I was trying last weekend, but still didn't get it. Did stick the move I was stuck on though (once).
S - 8.4 mile dog walk. Afternoon bouldering - Managed to do the V4 I was trying on Friday and last week. Victory! Tried another V4 on the new set, got a few moves, but it's another hard one. Tried another V5 on the same set, stuck about halfway for now.
S - 4 miles walking. Bouldering - Meant to work on the new set and then get on the steep board/campus board. However got distracted trying a couple of V5 problems on an old set, one of them was really long and hard, but could make progress on it. Didn't make it to any other areas.

Got really into trying some harder (for me) boulder problems lately. Feels good to be making progress on them even if actually completing stuff takes ages/doesn't happen before a reset.

Congrats @ tommytwotone :2thumbsup:

Fiend

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Toby, are you sure it's golfer's if it has hung around for so long when you're resting? Quite a few peeps on here have had shoulder impingements which have lead to similar symptoms.

Both times I had golfers it stayed for nearly a year before healing (the first included a month's full rest). I believe Ru said something similar on here about when he had it.

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I know quite a few people who've had issues with golfers. None of them seem to have benefited from full on rest, in fact most I've spoken to found that rest made it worse. Mine took a solid year before I could really consider doing high volume of fingerboarding, and more to be able to get back to stuff like 1-armers or campusing. During an informal chat with a physio at the wall they mentioned 12-18 months being typical. Definitely find the eccentrics good for keeping it at bay - I feel like I notice if I forget to do them for a few sessions in a row. However wrist curls with lots of weight may not be ideal with a buggered wrist  :-\

Dolly

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M Pilates
T Kin Beastmaker
W Saw Shark for an hour of fun on The Wave at lunchtime. Gym work with loads of core (medicine ball and TRX) in the evening
T Yet more core. Kettlebells and weights involved
F Did as many of the FIBO comp problems as I could do in an hour. Thoroughly enjoyed myself
S
S With Lagers at a wet Curbar, but the underside of the Gorilla Warfare block was dry. Did Jihad from the crack this time only to reach over the top to find it was properly wet. Are you meant to do a sit start from the crack, or just from standing ?  Anyone know ?


Lots of good training, but over relaxed on the booze front after a mainly dry January. Will reign in back again this week.
My knee isnt great. I cant lift it up that high and put any weight on it.  The physio said that I needed to go and see a knee specialist really which was a bit of a downer. Had a good talk to fatdoc about the whole thing which was very good to get his detailed, experienced perspective on it. Will see what options emerge from that, but worries me.





shark

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Will see what options emerge from that, but worries me.

Worrying about it will make it worse

nai

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Toby, are you sure it's golfer's if it has hung around for so long when you're resting? Quite a few peeps on here have had shoulder impingements which have lead to similar symptoms.

I had what appeared to be golfers but diagnosed and cured by HP as detailed here:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22460.msg411138.html#msg411138

Basically four months of taking it easy climbing and not training wasted while two weeks of neck and lat stretches cleared it straight up.

Duncan Disorderly

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Finnaly feeling like I can get back on the horse after what feels like forever just ticking over (or under as a mate put it).. Don't talk to me about elbows :(

Goals: E*stwood Traverse, F8a, a decent slew of 7's in Font @ Easter. Some big distances and hills on the bike (Tour of the Peak, Sheff TDF route, Col du Tourmalet etc. etc.)

M: Shockingly Shit at the works!
T: Felt like a sack of shite so had an early night.
W: Short BM session
T: Morning Yoga
F: eatswood - Decided to get on and refamilarise my self with the traverse. Warmed up by doing all the moves in isolation. Had a redpoint, shocked myself by falling off slapping the rail! Best effort ever :o.... Had a few more goes but the lack of climbing fitness showed itself in me losing power (and body tension) pretty early and skin being shockingly thin....
S: 4 mile fell run in horizontal hail... Dog nearly got blown back to Sheff and I had to pretty much lie down going over Higgar Tor!
S: Son's 7th birthday @ The Works - Did a fair bit of climbing really - yellows and the odd murple mainly... Way better than Monday!

This week: Climb more... Maybe get out on the bike (if the wind allows!).

:D

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... during which I became almost totally inactive except for some stretching and core stuff, put on weight and become very depressed and demotivated.

The cast came off 9 days  ago so last week might have been a return to normal. Unfortunately as soon as I tried climbing again I realised the golfer's was still there despite all the enforced rest.

...

I suppose I need to stay in rehab mode for the golfer's now, though I am desperate to climb again.

Get climbing again, gently. Is the weather good enough for Easy Trad.? Usually better for sore elbows than complete rest.

Resting and fretting is early always unhelpful. I tried this for two years once. Didn't work.




Weeks 207 & 208

STG - Don’t get injured. 2 sessions a week with a rope on, emphasis on endurance.
MTG - LH&F BHAG in Yosemite (7b RP this winter; E5 OS next summer)
June 2014.
LTG - LH&F BHAGs in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

M - V. gentle fingerboard session - foot-on.
T - Pull-ups
W - Long - for me - run. 32mins.
T - Westway routes: 6 ‘sets’ x 3 routes. 4+ - 6b+
F - Building site fitness
S - Short run, and lots of running after offspring.
S - Portland with csl. Dabbled with Modern Nightmare but couldn’t do the start. csl looked very smooth on this. Onsighted and greypointed a bunch of 6bs, which is the sort of training I’m supposed to be doing.

M -
T - Westway routes: 6 ‘sets’ of 3 routes 4+ to 6b. Tweaky wrist so bagged it early.
W (and most other days) - Shoulder stability stuff, stretches.
T - Pull-ups
F - V. gentle fingerboard session - foot off!
S - Real building site fitness: fitted new bathroom radiator. Hilly run.
S - Westway routes: 8 ‘sets’ of 3 x 6a-6b routes & 2 ‘sets’ of 3 x 4+ warm-up/warm-down.

Two pretty good weeks. Did a bit of climbing, ran for 32 minutes - longest since 1984, and trained a bit without breaking. The second week was supposed to be a ‘rest’ week. It was for more general fitness stuff but I got in some quite good climbing-specific stuff, including a 27 route session at the Westway. Have lost a bit of strength, normally would expect to get a 7a crux, but I’m nearly completely focused on endurance so that’s to be expected. Yosemite trip is the main goal for this year, so think it probably wise not to worry about 7b and E5 before June but push on with volume Aero-wotsit work.


fried

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Mon-Thu - Nothing. Staying at the mother in laws while my parquet is repaired.

Friday - indoor. Don't remember much about it, but Ive got furniture moving on my mind.

Sat - moving furniture and drinks to celebrate finally being able to really move into my front room. Only took a year, fucking France.

Sun - too much celebrating and I feel fragile but decide I may just as well feel fragile at the wall. Start badly but ok session by the end. Worked the first half of a 6C problem. Id love to crack the end of that.

weight 74.8kg

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STG - Trip to Red River Gorge 1st week of March - OS 5.13a, RP multiple 5.13's. 
MTG - 8B FA
LTG - To Bolt or Not To Be / Mandala

M - Max Hangs - New PB, PE 5x5min 4x4@v5(do a problem, then recover on good hold for 30-45seconds, problem, recover, problem, recover, then at 5min do last problem) . Pullup Pyramid (100 total)
T - Aerocap 45min
W - Max Hangs - Another new PB, Foot On Campusing 5 x 2:00min-wicked hard set.  Absolutely beasted myself. Pullup Pyramid (110 total)
Th - Yoga at Lunch, then Aerocap 45min
F - Boulder at Lunch OS up to 7B and worked 8A-did all moves, but couldn't link in last move from start. Then Max Hangs in evening-terrible, so worked from last five days.....
S - Routes - 6x3 back to back. 2 warm up sets, then 13b/c(OS attempt W/one hang) followed immediately by 2x.12OS, 3x.12b, 3x.12c, 3x12b.
S - Rest

Every week I'm getting fitter and fitter, and stronger and stronger, but I can tell I'm walking a fine balance between gains and overtraining.  So far so good-fingers and body feeling and mover better than ever.   5 more hard days, then taper down for trip.   

mindfull

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STG:
Freyr, Al'legne, Pillastre/L'echec du Siecle: 6a/6b/6c (100 m.)
LTG:
Freyr, Merinos, Alec/Cristina, 7a+ (12 m.)
Freyr, 5 anes, Pillier Cromwel, 7a (50 m.)

MON
Rest

TUE
WarmUp(route)
5b OverHang
6a VErtical
6a+ VE
PowerEndurance(route/redpoint)
6c+ OH (first redpoint)
7a OH (third redpoint)
6b VE (recup)
7a OH (third redpoint)

WED
REcuperation(routes)
5b5/5a/5c/6a/6a/5c/5b/5c/6a+

FRI
ENdurance(series-bpm)
5a5a5aVE
5b5b5bOH
5c5c5cVE
6a6aOH
6a+6a+VE
6a6aOH
6a6aVE
5c5c5cOH

SUN
WU(arc)
10min.
Max. Deadhangs on 3 diff. slopers.


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I can't believe you said Bennett was shit!

nik at work

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STG - Ticked so would now like to get out and get some F.A's and first repeats before the bird ban kicks in at the main crag
MTG - BM silliness
LTG - something hardish at the end of the year

M - BM session, decent
T - BM session, best performance yet. Most solid (although still far from 'good form') one armers on the lower two finger pockets.
W - The wheels come off to an extent, fingers felt a bit odd and left elbow sore in the morning so bin the evening BM session
T - swim and stretch but again bin the BM session
F - bin the BM session
S - Big birthday afternoon tea, cake nom nom. Plan to go to the wall in the evening, get there at 10 to 6 to be told "we close at 6", go and play pool instead.
S - Climb outside, but having banging headache, don't do much

Probably fair to say that after a pretty intense few weeks a couple of days of ease for my body was probably needed, back on the horse this week...

 

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