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UKB Power Club Week 207 Mon 27th Jan - Sun 2nd Feb (Read 7280 times)

tomtom

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2014 totals:
Outside 5
Indoor 3
Training 8

A double post for me - as I missed last weeks...

M:
T: Burbage west with Shark... big progress on West Side Story :) should get it next visit (though see further on...)



W:
Th: Trowbarrow - another battle with a damp (but less dam) pit problem..
F: Travel to Beverley for friends 40th birthday
S: Booze
Su: Less booze no exercise

M: Travel back from Beverley - did some beastmakerisation.. my back felt really stiff..
T: Pushed through lower back pain for a lunchtime session at Logport wall.. felt much better afterwards
W: Beastmaker/assited deadhangs with painful lower back..
Th: Busy work day....
F: Floored by back pain. Couldnt bend to put my socks on.. crept about house - managed to wander down the road for a curry in the evening
S: Even worse back...
Su: Slightly better back...

In a nutshell, was progressing really well - then somethings gone wrong with my lower back. I think working the Pit Problem may have started it (big pull on a high right heel) followed by 90 min in the car on the way home.. It seemed to have passed - but a long weekend away in a soft (but very comfy) bed seems to have made things worse.. Term starts on Monday and with it less opportunity to climb - and god knows how my back will respond. Spent the last two days lying flat most of the time (with some child/cat stretches in between) and that seems to help. Rubbish.

At least weight is down to 11st 6lb...






Duma

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STG - get up to speed without reinjuring anything
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - Bike in woods for couple of hours. Wet but fun, and getting the hang of things to the point where it's starting to get physically tiring. TCA in eve for an hour, on new greens (supposedly 6A-6C, but contains at least 3 or 4 7's). wrist still tweaky. Nights.
T - Nights
W - 2k row before nights - 7:29, horrible, can't remember last time on rowing machine.
T -
F - TCA eve 90 min, more greens. Wrist still tweaky  >:(
S - 12hr day
S - 12 hr day
 
67.5kg. Think this can only be result of muscle wastage.

fried

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Monday - Took all my climbing gear to work, but I'd only slept a couple of hours on Sunday night, so I decided against it. Walked 30mins
Tuesday - Indoor, went to revisit one of the new Parisian walls, they'd downgraded everything by 2 whole grades, I thought they were stiff. 2.5h good session, but mainly flashing as much easy stuff as possible.

Wednesday - 40mins antagonistics
Thursday - Indoor, normal wall, good session lots of new 6A ish stuff to try, made good progress on a lot of stuff, but everything seemed to have tough last moves. 3h inc weigts, back stuff.

Friday - 30min walk
Saturday - Sorting out the apartment, ready for the parquet that being repaired next week.
Sunday - Indoor, tired and climbing like crap, couldn't get off the ground on a problem that I'd almost finished previously. Should have gone outside, but too many things to move from the front room.

Weight 48.8kg. First time under 75kg for a long time. Maybe why I was tired today.

Fiend

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Weight 48.8kg. First time under 75kg for a long time. Maybe why I was tired today.
Da fuck.

mindfull

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MONDAY:
WarmUp(route)
5a-5b-5c-6a
Power Endurance
6b-6b-6b-6b-6b-5c-6a-5c-6a-6a

TUESDAY
Cardio Test(Aerobic/Anaerobic treshold)
5a(146)-5b(184)-5c(174)-5a(165)-6a(186)-5c(186)-6a+(189)-5b(176)-6b(195)-5b5b5b(182)

FRIDAY
Endurance(1+1)
44-5a5a-5b5b-5b5b-5c5c-5c5c-6a6a-5c5c-5b5b-6a5b

SUNDAY
WarmUp(route)
5a5b
Power Endurance
6a+-6b+-5c-6b-6a+-6b5c
Power Endurance(route)

fried

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Weight 48.8kg. First time under 75kg for a long time. Maybe why I was tired today.
Da fuck.

I said I was tired ;)

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Mon: Mileage day at Sunderland 280 m of steep routes 6b-7a

Tues: Gym 30 minHIIT pedal, benchpress 3x40 kg, 15 min row, core session....gym ball walk and slings added.
Shoulders antagonists and stretch p.m.

Wed: Gym 20min run 20 min row 20 min pedal
Shoulders antagonists and stretch p.m.

Thurs: Board session. Good body tension warm up and warm up board. Good progress on " dynamic problems " and the crimp problems. Sloping pinches problems started and a session hanging poor to good pinches.

Fri: Gym 30 minHIIT pedal, benchpress 3x40 kg, 15 min row, core session....gym ball walk and slings added.
Shoulders antagonists and stretch p.m.

Sat: Gym 20min run 20 min row 20 min pedal
Shoulders antagonists and stretch p.m.

Sun: Climbing at Rothley ... very cold, no coloured holds, a hard afternoon shock to the system.

shark

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11.6-9

M. Eve. Messed around on new crusher fingerboard then did 2 sets of 4, 8sec intermittent hangs
T. Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Mainly trying a couple of desperate L2's between belays
W.Eve. Systems board. Played on the new small holds and undercuts then did 2 sets of 20/10s (AeroCap)
T. Eve Fingerboard. Various unweighted hangs including assisted 1armers then intermittent hang set on 16mm edge
F. Eve. Foundry Wave. Worked the green and black spots on steep section with Toby.
S.
S. PM. Burbage. Busy. Lengthy session on West Side Story. Struggled at first till temp dropped. Many goes till it  got dark - lots getting third sidehold but not quite holding it. Got some useful beta from Percy.

Easier week and completed sharkathon. Had a relapse drinking/eating last three evenings but generally things still going ion the right direction - feel like I'm climbing well.

Need to knuckle down for Feb - so no drinking and sensible eating. Its only 4 weeks FFS - how hard can that be ??



EdGowSmith

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7A:    1/50!!!
7A+:  0/40
7B:    0/30
7B+:  0/20
7C:    0/10

Getting back into climbing again after a month off to heal my elbows, and have decided to start keeping track of my climbing on here :)
Starting two days early:
Sat: First day climbing since end of 2013. Youth Climbing Series round 1 at the Quay. Wasn't expecting to do that well, but ended up coming 4th which was alright. Hoping to do better next round though.
Sun: Went to Bonehill, weather was crap, didn't climb anything. Beastmaker and home board session.
Mon: Evening session at the Bunker. Tried to flash as many of the hardest circuit as possible, failed miserably. Did manage to flash a V6/7 though which was nice.
Tues: Training at the Bunker. Bit of everything really, systems board, press-ups, Beastmakering etc.
Wed: Long session at the Bunker. Press-ups and core with a friend who was very motivating. Even managed the plank for 5 minutes! Went home feeling fucked.
Thurs: Home board and Beastmaker session.
Fri: Same as Thurs, plus a short core and press-up workout.
Sat: Tried to find a recently developed crag, failed, so ended up just doing some eliminate bouldering at Anstey's. Couple V6/7 problems.
Sun: One of the nicest day's bouldering on Dartmoor I've had. Long session at Cuckoo Rock and Down Tor. Failed on a V3 slab but got lots of mileage in, including first proper V6 of 2014!

Feeling super psyched at the moment, and training hard. Not sure how long I'll be able to keep this level of training up though!

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Goals for Month

Climb 3x a week 4/3 Done very convincingly this month. Morning sessions at the biscuit are where its at.
25 Problems on Biscuit Comp Wall - 17/25 - Not sure why i set this as a goal, barely climbed on this wall after my first session. Came close to about 5 more problems on it though.
2x Sessions on a Rope - 3/2 Done.
1x Outside 2/1 Done - try and keep up 2 or 3 days a month out on rock if possible.
Lose a Kilo - lost about half a kilo, not too fussed tho.

Goals for Winter

V8/7B indoors/ Get stronger on Boulders - Did a V7 and lots of quick V6. Definately feeling a lot stronger than this time last year.
Book a sport climbing trip - hopefully Rodellar, just gotta book it.

Mon-
Tue - Westway. 10 routes. Fell off the last move of a 7a+ onsight. Power Endurance coming back a tiny bit.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Biscuit. Evening with a friend so a bit busy and unfocused. Did a few of new red V3-5 circuit and onsighted another couple of the V4-6 circuit.
Fri - Biscuit. Did a V6 roof second go. Then tried to do some ARC, i'm so unfit could only do 3x 5mins on a gently over hanging wall. Mainly on jugs.
Sat - Rest
Sun - Portland, the Cuttings. 
Great to be out. Did a 6a to warm up, then managed to fall off the same 6a+ I fell off two weeks ago. 3 session redpoint project it is. Then very nearly retroflashed Modern Nightmare, 7a. Fell off at the chains putting the clips in. Did it fairly smoothly second go today, had been on it a year ago. Then finished onsighting another 6b. Should try and onsight New Saladin next time and try Want Out.
 
Goals for Feb

Climb 3x a week
1x session a week on a rope.
1x outside - Away skiing for two weekends this month so not sure when I'll manage to fit this in.
7b/E4/7A+ depending on what i do when I get out.

Stay under 75kg. Eat a bit healthier food. 

Goals for Winter

V8/7B indoors/ Get stronger on Boulders - Try and get a V8 by end of Feb.
Book a sport climbing trip - Book Rodellar.

Muenchener

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STG (January/February): obtain or build doorway mounting rig for beastmaker.
            Turkish Get-Up w/20kg kettlebell.
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint. Two hundred practice falls by Easter - currently: 15
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   Morning: knee physio exercises
   Evening: more stretches & foam rolling while watching Gaskins shed video

T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. Quick session after work before collecting M jnr from swimming club. Four more ticks on my current "quite hard" circuit, only two of which were quite hard.

W: am: knee physio exercises
   pm: kettlebell conditioning inspired by this: 5 rounds of 15 swings, 10 goblet squats, 10 press-ups with 30 seconds rest
   
T: 
F: Kettlebells again. Knee physio & thoracic mobility to warm up, tgu progressions/attempts, 5 rounds of 15 swings, 12 goblet squats, 10 press-ups with 30 seconds rest

S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. Four more ticks on my current project circuit, bringing total score to 16 out of 40. Need to get a move on, the circuit gets re-set in two weeks.

S: Wall, Thalkirchen: active rest via ARCing 14, 20, 10 minutes.
   Alpine approach training: 20 mins step-ups w/13kg rucksack. Desperate, am fat & unfit

Read Revelations. I know this doesn't directly count as training, but definitely inspiring wrt hard work, motivation etc. More of a cracking read than I was expecting too. Well done Jerry and Grimer (and Stu for telling Jerry how to do The Ace)

The first couple of chapters were a nostalgia trip for me too, as Jerry's early climbing years were also mine. I don't remember the rats being so prominent in Tremadog Barn, but then I rarely made the mistake of going there in summer. I do remember giving Andy Pollitt & Basher a lift from the Pen y Gwryd - they were on their way to do Strawberries on the same day as my mate & I did our first E2 (Nimbus), so a successful day all round.

cheque

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STG (winter/ spring): full range of movement in dodgy fingers, E-numbered grit trad fun.

MTG (summer): plenty of 7s on meditteranean/ pennine lime.


M- Old school compound strength: pull-ups, bicep curls, pushups. Up to 17kg on the bicep curls- 1kg off target now.

T- Rest.

W- Notts Wall routes. Did last week's one-handed-vertical-autobelay-jug-project and lots more routes. Starting to get on the harder ones now as my fingers improve, but still nothing where I have to actually bear down on small holds.

T- Swimming at ultra-crowded city centre pool. Didn't count laps this time as my mind was more on weaving around people and many were incomplete as the ends of the pool were completely occupied by people not swimming at times...

F- Weighted pullups. New 1 rep max is 20kg.

S- Rest.

S- Apparent North. "A little breezy", which made soloing feel pretty full-on. Took ages to warm up due to this and the cold but then got into it and did pretty much everything I'd fancied from the guide and some harder ones! Never felt so fluent and confident on grit  ;D. I'd originally planned to do a bit of climbing then wander round Burbage and see if anyone I knew was about (turns out quite a few were) but just got absorbed and stayed at Apparent North 'til dark. 23 routes/ problems in total.

Making progress on fingers and feeling quite upbeat about them.

JackAus

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Stg: Fingers then V7 and dws project.
Ltg: V11.

M: Dws. 2 V3 repeats and 2 attempts on project. Both steady slaps about 5 inches from top. Somehow my right 4th finger is now worse than my left. Feels like same pulley (A4). Some movement restriction but hopefully improves soon. Lefty is doing much better now...
T: Dws. Warm up on V3. Then just 1 attempt. Didn't feel very psyched at all. RF came off when taking out the toe and didn't quite hold the cut. Bad fall onto my side. Moved on to a lap of the 7a traverse and put up a new V1 with a weird mantle and an awesome V4 that I flashed. After the first mantle on the warmup V3, lip traverse right via a sideways dyno. Mate had eyed it up a few weeks ago as a double dyno but got scared and backed out. Very non-commitingly, I went for it with only 1 hand. Caught it and then, very commitingly, held an iron cross while trying to get my feet back on smears. Then launch right and hold a one armer to stay on the slopey jug... Only just held on then a couple more moves on bad slopers before I could top out. Very very scary flash and probably harder than V4, only have a couple of V5 flashes... Absolutely knackered afterwards...
W: Work late.
T: Helped Dad with starting to build awning/lean-to on his shed. Picked up all the wood this morning.
Work late.
F: Went up the river with Dad on his jetski looking for more dws potential. Really not much else, couple of lines on a small wall downstream and a couple of other  walls right near where I'm already climbing. Had a quick climb warming up on V3 then 1 attempt on project. Usual slap... Work late.
S: Work late.
S: Dws with a bunch of lower grade mates. Loads of just messing about on projects. Did 2 x V3 and 7a traverse. 1 attempt on project, need skin and rest... Tried to repeat V4 iron cross dyno. Held the dyno but came off the match, ripping a deep chunk out of my right 4th finger tip. Instant bleeding. Fuck. No more climbing for me for a few days...

Left pulley is feeling loads better, right is now shit and left pad is fucked. Might have to be a week of trekkingthrough the bush searching for new stuff and cleaning up new lines. Doubt I'll be able to climb at all for abit... Pretty annoyed really...

galpinos

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   pm: kettlebell conditioning inspired by this: 5 rounds of 15 swings, 10 goblet squats, 10 press-ups with 30 seconds rest

Just a word of warning. I know kettlebells are all the rage and I really rate them but swings are quite difficult and it helps to know how to do them to avoid screwing your back. Getting the movement right with the weird hip thust at the end took me a while (in my brief I'm a caveman style fitness incarnation) so take it easy and start with a low weight. If you already know all this, ignore me!

If you like this kind of stuf, make yourself a sloosh pipe. Falling Down of this parish had one and it was nails.

T_B

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85Kg

M - CWP (still on 10 Secs). Elbows a bit stiff on 40 degree lock, fine on straight arm and 120 degrees. 80 press ups, 96 leg pulls.
T - Elbows a bit stiff/tweaky
W - Lunch : 4 x 20 move circuits, 96 leg pulls (last set of 20), 50 press ups. Bit of a twinge in left elbow warming up and still felt 'fragile'.
T - P.M. Circuit board. Did 7a, 7b, then fell off Brown 8a on first attempt. Then got stuck into green 8b. Did 15 move link from start, then 13-move link (almost all of 2nd half), then ages dialling moves. Kept getting the odd 'twinge', but nothing too bad.
F - Elbows felt better today than yesterday despite last nights' climbing?
S - 50 press ups, 80 crunches. Soggy walk with kids up Burbage. Freezing in the quarries.
S - 4-hr slot. Dithered then went to Burb N and got warmed up at Remergence. Interested to try benchmarking on Blind Date as heard from another friend who broke their calcanium that they couldn't do it afterwards (turning your left toe onto the foothold on the lip). Anyway, took a few goes and it was hard to get my toe on, but did it. Then headed over to a v cold Baslow for about 70 goes at Flatworld, which I find desperate. Ended up dragging the guppy in the end and when you do it, it feels OK. Struggled with climbing outside in the cold and a lack of moves... hmm.

Elbows seem to be sorted pretty much following a week of no deadhanging or bouldering indoors. Careful monitoring this week.

Muenchener

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Just a word of warning. I know kettlebells are all the rage and I really rate them but swings are quite difficult and it helps to know how to do them to avoid screwing your back. Getting the movement right with the weird hip thust at the end took me a while (in my brief I'm a caveman style fitness incarnation) so take it easy and start with a low weight. If you already know all this, ignore me!

If you like this kind of stuf, make yourself a sloosh pipe. Falling Down of this parish had one and it was nails.

Thx for the knowledge. I did a one-day introductory course where we learned proper form for swings & TGUs, so am hopefully not doing them too drastically wrong.

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STG - next trip is a bouldering one, so need to get strong!

M - 16 miles cycling commuting. 10 minute fingerboard workout in the evening.
T - 16 miles cycling commuting. Evening wall session. 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6c+ (tried on top rope, one move I couldn't do no matter what!), 6b, 6b (one move stopped me on the second of these new 6bs), 6a. Busy night at the wall.
W - 16 miles cycling commuting. 1.5 miles running at lunchtime before the rain became too much and I ducked into the sandwich shop instead. Evening - did elbow exercises, as was getting pins and needles in my hand on Tuesday's climbing session. Not good.
T - 16 miles cycling commuting. Drove instead of cycled to my mum's house in the evening :oops:
F - Morning - circuit of pushups, squats, planks, rows. Evening quick climb - Did a few routes- 5+, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6c+ (top rope, did all moves, but came off twice). Then bouldered mainly trying a V4 with a really long sideways press kind of move which I didn't do, but got closer...
S - 6 miles walking plus bouldering at the wall - New set on the roof mainly. Flashed V2 and V3, got to last move on V4, but I am not tall enough to do the move as it's set, and I couldn't do it with only 1 foot on. Tried a yellow V4-6 problem, got a few moves.
S - Walking 9 miles - it's finally not raining. Quick boulder at the wall. Warmed up, then spent time trying 1 move on a V4 problem, and trying a V4-6 problem many many times and getting neither of them. Flashed to last move on another V4-6 problem, but I'm definitely not going to be able to do the last move. Finished on the campus board. Good session as those problems work on (some of!) my weaknesses, and I was getting closer even though I didn't get them.

SA Chris

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13st 8.5 1.5

M - Beastmaker
T - cardio 1/2 hour
W - bouldering down wall. Felt a bit weak due to cold, but focussed efforts on a really thin balnacy crimpy thing (given V5) and got it done in the dying embers of the session, basically by ignoring short man beta.
T - don't recall doing much.
F - worked like a dog to get deadline met at 10pm. Only exercise was a sprinted down Union Street in pissing rain behind my bus home, overtook him at the lights and made it!
S - burned out did nowt I can remember.
S - swimming cancelled, took kids to park, then bouldered in afternoon at Boltsheugh. Lower part swamped by sea, did loads of fingery eliminates on upper right walls. Howling wind, but sun was at least out.Kids ski lessons late afternoon, spent most of time going up and down magic carpet lift picking kids up while rest of parents sat on their arses. Once a lifty always a lifty.

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Fully back into the swing of things after few very busy work weeks in early Jan.


Short term goals (next 3 weeks or so).
weight down to 78 kg for birthday (25th of feb)
Keep going with the new finger board (thanks santa)
Do all the green flagged routes at the local wall (just a couple left to tick)
Do more blue flagged routes.
Don't get injured.


Current weight
78.8kg


this week gone
Five days cycle comute.


M,W,F wall sessions (lunch time). Antagonists and core sessions (evening)


Tu, Thurs, Sat. Finger board sessions short and simple stuff for the first few months
Sunday outdoors bouldering short and sweet as it was a tad windy....but felt good :)  even if local crag is a crumbley pile of poo.




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STG1 - January Sharkathon - Completed!
STG2 - Trip to Red River Gorge 1st week of March - OS 5.13a, RP multiple 5.13's. 
MTG - 8B FA
LTG - To Bolt or Not To Be

M - 30 Min Stretching and light BW exercises(squats, lunges, pressups, etc.)
T - Boulder at Gym - Quite a lot up to 7C, then 4x4 at 7A/+.  Pullup Pyramid(72 total)
W - Aerocap 45min
Th - Max Hangs - Matched PB, Foot On Campusing 5 x 2:00min. Pullup Pyramid (81 total)
F - Aerocap 45min
S - Routes - 6x3 back to back. 2 warm up sets, then 3x.12b, 3x.12d/13a, 3x.12c, 3x12b.
S - Rest. 2mi easy run in PM.

Starting to feel the endurance building.  In 3 weeks I've gone from 3x12a, to 3x12d, and I feel like I can get about 60-75% back at a decent rest and closer to 75-90% at a good rest.  Looking good for the red :)

nik at work

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STG - BM silliness - TICKED
MTG - BM even sillier silliness
LTG - something hard-ish towards the end of the year

M - BM session, decent
T - BM session, decent
W - BM session, managed one armers on the bottom row two finger pocket. They were still not great form but good enough for me to take the tick (think the elbows could do with a break from one arming).
T - Swimming, 40 lengths, stretching, BM session. Not one-arming anymore so focussing on the fingers now, lots of mono action.
F - BM session, mono-tastic. Can hang 30 seconds on the shallow monos on middle fingers, 20 seconds on ring fingers and 10-ish on inde finger. pinky finger? Ha-ha-ha... Also tried some hanging on for a long time shaking out with feet on a chair type things, did 20 minutes but man is it dull.
S - Swimming and stretching.
S - Climb outside!!! New E7.

A good week, I'll take the STG tick even if I am being a bit soft on myself. Definitely seeing the benefits in terms of finger strength. Tried the stamina type stuff and it was OK but I can't imagine I can cope with the dullness... Nice to get out on Sunday, and even nicer to actually get something done.

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14.7 - 14.10

Monday - Mini Works. after the kicking I took from plastic last week, I took the unusual step of trying to structure my session and even went so far as to plan to "finish strong".

Did the 3-4 circuit slowly and steadily, then the 4-5 circuit, then had a rest, then did the 5-5+ circuit. This went well. I had a bit of a rest and reflected on how I was feeling.

Decided I was feeling pretty good and proceeded to do a few 6B type things - onsighted a few of them, which surprised me.

Felt like a rock climber.

Wandered across to The Works to socialise for a bit.


Tuesday - nothing that I remember


Wednesday - Jump off stuff to improve landing technique and rehabilitate weak ankle. 20 mins low resistance static bike to get ankle moving. 1 gin and tonic


Thrusday - Burbage South boulders. Met up with someone claiming to be nai off the UKB forum. Pottered about on easy stuff. did a few half-remembered eliminates - unfortunately nai was able to do these despite my best efforts to be vague about the rules.

Stopped bouldering when the snow was landing on the rocks faster than we could brush it off.

Went to the Mini works did the 3-4 and 4-5 circuits in reasonable style, then had a think about what would help me regain some climbing ability.

Decided to do  each problem on the 5-5+ circuit 4 times without rests. Felt like I was getting smoother and probably more efficient by the end of this.

Wandered across to The Works to socialise.

Interesting to note that it has taken 25 years and a manky ankle to make me properly downclimb to the floor after each problem.

2 cans Stella (Asda selling them at £3 for 4)


Friday - Jumping off stuff and low resistance bike. Shoulder press (massive weakness for me) and deadlifts - not heavy, concentrating on control. Light dumbell complexes.

2 cans Stella


Saturday - Packing house stuff. Got the large wall mounted aquarium down and packed with breaking it.

1 pint easy rider, 2 bottles bishops finger


Sunday - Curbar.

Climbed very badly whilst trying to warm up. Back felt stiff from carefully fridge hugging a large aquarium yesterday and from reading Tomtom's complaints about his back. Ankle hurt a lot, walking was painful. Couldn't get my feet to stay on or move properly (probably the back thing). Significant fear issues (probably the ankle pain).

Wandered up to the peace and quiet of Mini Prow Boulder and did lots of gentle movements on clean dry rock in beautiful sunshine under a glorious blue sky.

Eventually the crowds started to disperse and the engaged sign on the gorilla toilet block changed colour to indicate that there was space for a little one. Turned out to be only 1 person climbing and they left soon after I started putting large muddy footprints on their pads.

I mucked about doing moves on the steep stuff. Failed to link Early Doors several times. Had a bit of a rest and looked at the view.

Despite my best efforts to hide my whereabouts, Dolly came to meet me after his expedition to another part of the crag. I failed on 2 odd problems on the vertical wall that were in Dolly's BMC guidebook - I'd never tried them before - not my kind of thing, but good to try

I realised that I was feeling a bit more like someone who can climb rocks, so smoothly floated my way up Early Doors - this was a pleasant surprise. Feeling invincible, I suggested we have a crack at Jihad. Not done it before and only had a rough idea what it was - Dolly's BMC (and therefore official) guide said to start from the slopers, so we did. Dolly got it first time   :bow: and entertained me with his topping out process hindered by failing light and his less than perfect eyesight. To my shame it took me 2 goes - "shame" my arse! I was very pleased with this!

Looked at Hurricane. Fondled the starting holds and poked potential footholds.

Pottered about touching rock until it was too dark to see. Saw a woodcock whilst loading the car.

2 pints Easy Rider

Further research indicates that Jihad starts at the big crack and then goes into the slopers to join what we did. Not too bothered really, I impressed myself - especially in the light of my uninspired, wooden performance at the start of the session.

Feeling keen

nik at work

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Nice one Lagers :)

lagerstarfish

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Nice one Lagers :)

you mean the Asda Stella offer?

yeah, it's great

webbo

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 Mon. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Board did 1 new problem, repeated few things that I remember as being hard.
Wed. Board mirror session. As well doing harder problems also did another 8 problems 50 in total.
Thu. Turbo 1 hour.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board worked some projects then repeated some old classics. Dumbbell workout.
Sun. Bike 3hrs33 mins 59 miles out on best bike felt very hard at times in the wind.
Weight to day Tuesday 11 st 3.4 lbs.
January's totals climbed 15 times. Bike 18 times. Weights 5 times. Also did my back exs and shoulder theraband exs on 26 days. Weight down from 11 st 13.1 lb to 11 st 3.4 lbs.

Dolly

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M Short Foundry sess at lunchtime. Pilates later on
T Weights - just weights. Lifting stuff and grunting
W Gym - core and some limited aerobic stuff
T
F Foundry at lunchtime, but I was rubbish. Tired and weak with not much pull
S
S Curbar. Firstly with jonjon. Warmed up and did some stuff Id done before and some easier stuff but he had to go so ruled out the things I wanted to try at the left hand side of the edge as they all needed a spot. Met Lagers at Gorilla Warfare and had a pretty good time. He's a beast and as Tomtom suggested he hussled me with some big campus moves on the block. I was pretty pissed off to think I'd flashed Jihad only to find out when I got home that it starts from the crack and not the slopers as Id checked in the BMC guide which said it started from the slopers. Played on the 2 problems on the wall behind, hit the finishing hold a few times on the right hand one but didnt stick it. It was velcro by that point as well.

Luke Owens

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Not the best week, had a lot on with lots of house viewings etc. Felt very tired. Having a better week this week though!

Monday: Boardroom

5 x V1-V2
2 x V2-V3
5 x V3-V4

Failed on loads of V5-V7's

Failed to repeat the Psicobloc 6c at the end of the session, couldn't even do the easy section, felt wasted...

Tuesday: Rest

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Boardroom

30 Minutes Aerocap

5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6c, 6c+
Got on a 7a but failed on it twice.
Warm down: 6b+, 6a

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Wavelength bouldering

Repeated 2 6B+'s then spent while working the moves on King of Drunks (7A) feels possible now. Pissed it down as I was making progress... got soaked.

lagerstarfish

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managed one armers on the bottom row two finger pocket.

 :jaw:

 

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