[rginns]

I've already got a 40 degree (well, 38.5...) that I've started using regularly. This is 8 foot wide, by around 10 feet long (tall).

I've now got the opportunity to use the other side of the garage which is now cleared of all the shit I had stacked there.

I have the space to put a 20 degree wall in, about 12 feet  wide, (height will be restricted due to rafter height.
I would use this for training on shit slopey holds, traversing and short up problems, which are more problematic on the board.

I'm now wondering whether this would be a useful addition or whether it'd be more effort than it's worth?

Would it be more useful putting a campus board in (would be short) or some other training device and am I best off just getting stronger on the 40?

What have others done?

[Dolly]

I used to have both (as you describe) when my board was in the cellar. I had the 40 degree to start with then added a 20 degree later.
Id say do it. It does allow you to do a different sort of training and is a different sort of fun. I do subscribe to the "training should be fun as well as all that other stuff" school of thought though.

[SA Chris]

I'd do it. Mist of the stuff you climb is more likely to be 20 deg over than 40 deg.

What grades you climbing? Unless you are into the mid to high 7s it will probably do you more good than a campus board. I find 10deg board at our local wall best for working finger strength and technique and enjoy climbing it more than the other boards, but I'm weak as piss.

[rginns]

What grades you climbing?

classic punter. I usually climb between 6b and 6c+ - STG is 7a this winter.
I usually find campus or fingerboard training fairly tedious, which may or may not have answered my own question...
cheers

[r-man]

If you have projects in the quarries, a 20 degree board would probably be good for recreating some of the moves.

[a dense loner]

If you climb 6b-6c+ what on earth are you doing on a campus board? How can it be tedious you won't be able to do anything? If you can then you certainly won't be climbing such lowly grades
*lowly does not mean crap

[IS2]

We added a board about 10-15 degrees which is useful for both warming up on and also for working the fingers. It is set with very few good foot holds, several abysmal footholds, lots of slopers and poor pinches but crucially has a fair few 5mm edges which are hard to crimp. So it is a very useful addition to our main board.

[rginns]

thanks for the contribution dense.
I was never seriously considering a campus board, more wondering whether I could use the space more profitably and interested to know what others have done.
I probably climb 'lowly' (think you might mean crap) grades through a combination of being uable to get out much and lack of focus.
nice to know that I cant do anything on a campus board though, thanks!

[rginns]

We added a board about 10-15 degrees which is useful for both warming up on and also for working the fingers. It is set with very few good foot holds, several abysmal footholds, lots of slopers and poor pinches but crucially has a fair few 5mm edges which are hard to crimp. So it is a very useful addition to our main board.

cheers, and to r-man and others, I think I will put another board up,should be a useful addition and add some variety for stuff thats not as strength related

[a dense loner]

Rginns I think you've took my post completely wrong. I didn't mean crap grades at all, what I meant was if you've been using a campus board and find it tedious you must actually be quite strong. It takes a lot more strength to use a campus board than to climb sub 7's. In your post after mine you've said you don't get out often and don't have much focus, from reading between the lines I'd say you can certainly climb harder than you're claiming you're just not doing so. Nor did I intimate that you couldn't do anything on a campus board, see above.
As you can see I actually have a lot of beef with people or with coaches who get climbers to use a campus board at a *lowly level. It's just plain dangerous. There's a massive difference between someone who doesn't get out much since they're out in the sticks and someone who's just plain crap who shouldn't be anywhere near a simple but effective piece of equipment that puts forces through their bodies that they can't handle yet.
I'd build the twenty like people have said, putting a mixture of hold types on. Then just use the boards religiously, in a very short space of time your hard projects of today are warm ups or you don't do them again since they're too easy.

[rginns]

Rginns I think you've took my post completely wrong. I didn't mean crap grades at all, what I meant was if you've been using a campus board and find it tedious you must actually be quite strong. It takes a lot more strength to use a campus board than to climb sub 7's. In your post after mine you've said you don't get out often and don't have much focus, from reading between the lines I'd say you can certainly climb harder than you're claiming you're just not doing so. Nor did I intimate that you couldn't do anything on a campus board, see above.
As you can see I actually have a lot of beef with people or with coaches who get climbers to use a campus board at a *lowly level. It's just plain dangerous. There's a massive difference between someone who doesn't get out much since they're out in the sticks and someone who's just plain crap who shouldn't be anywhere near a simple but effective piece of equipment that puts forces through their bodies that they can't handle yet.
I'd build the twenty like people have said, putting a mixture of hold types on. Then just use the boards religiously, in a very short space of time your hard projects of today are warm ups or you don't do them again since they're too easy.

Looks like I did misinterpret your post, apologies I love forums...
What you say here makes complete sense - I actually derive much more enjoyment from training on the board anyway than any other monotonous, specific tool.
I think the important point is to get on it religiously, which I am actually doing at the moment...
any road, cheers.

[GCW]

Nah, Dense is right - you're just crap.   

If you want any T nuts etc let me know.  I've chopped all the remaining wood I had left over I'm afraid.

A 20 would be useful I think.  As Dense and others have said, a good choice of holds will be important.  And get some pinches on your steep board!!

[SA Chris]

I actually derive much more enjoyment from training on the board anyway than any other monotonous, specific tool.

Calling yourself a tool is a bit unfair though.

[rginns]

Nah, Dense is right - you're just crap.   
If you want any T nuts etc let me know.  I've chopped all the remaining wood I had left over I'm afraid.
A 20 would be useful I think.  As Dense and others have said, a good choice of holds will be important.  And get some pinches on your steep board!!

Cheers fatty 
I'm getting a load of timber in for other purposes anyway, so it's easy to slip in enough for the board under the radar if you know what I mean. I may take you up on the T-nuts if they're going spare...
As for holds, there are a few slopers on the 40 that I just don't use enough, so It'll need a wholesale re-jig I think...
pinches are for puffs.

Calling yourself a tool is a bit unfair though.

apparantly not!

[Johnny Brown]

Then just use the boards religiously, in a very short space of time your hard projects of today are warm ups or you don't do them again since they're too easy.

Dense is speaking from experience here, worth listening. He barely climbs at all now, presumably because they're all too easy. Sheffield's answer to Tronc Feuillu.

[a dense loner]

Nah, works just got in the way.

[nik at work]

Rginns I think you've took my post completely wrong. I didn't mean crap grades at all, what I meant was if you've been using a campus board and find it tedious you must actually be quite strong. It takes a lot more strength to use a campus board than to climb sub 7's. In your post after mine you've said you don't get out often and don't have much focus, from reading between the lines I'd say you can certainly climb harder than you're claiming you're just not doing so. Nor did I intimate that you couldn't do anything on a campus board, see above.
As you can see I actually have a lot of beef with people or with coaches who get climbers to use a campus board at a *lowly level. It's just plain dangerous. There's a massive difference between someone who doesn't get out much since they're out in the sticks and someone who's just plain crap who shouldn't be anywhere near a simple but effective piece of equipment that puts forces through their bodies that they can't handle yet.
I'd build the twenty like people have said, putting a mixture of hold types on. Then just use the boards religiously, in a very short space of time your hard projects of today are warm ups or you don't do them again since they're too easy.

:agree:Bang on Dense, do this Pasty

[rginns]

Rginns I think you've took my post completely wrong. I didn't mean crap grades at all, what I meant was if you've been using a campus board and find it tedious you must actually be quite strong. It takes a lot more strength to use a campus board than to climb sub 7's. In your post after mine you've said you don't get out often and don't have much focus, from reading between the lines I'd say you can certainly climb harder than you're claiming you're just not doing so. Nor did I intimate that you couldn't do anything on a campus board, see above.
As you can see I actually have a lot of beef with people or with coaches who get climbers to use a campus board at a *lowly level. It's just plain dangerous. There's a massive difference between someone who doesn't get out much since they're out in the sticks and someone who's just plain crap who shouldn't be anywhere near a simple but effective piece of equipment that puts forces through their bodies that they can't handle yet.
I'd build the twenty like people have said, putting a mixture of hold types on. Then just use the boards religiously, in a very short space of time your hard projects of today are warm ups or you don't do them again since they're too easy.

:agree:Bang on Dense, do this Pasty

Cheers Nik, hope you're well.
Timber order placed, should be arriving later today. The build should be a goer in the next few weeks once the boss has signed off all my other duties....