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UKB Power Club Week 205 Mon 13th - Sun 19th Jan (Read 11898 times)

Ti_pin_man

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Don't beat yourself up if you don't do much/anything over the first couple of/few months. You only need to do 30 mins a few times a week to keep your eye in as well. Take the long view - it gets easier as they get older and you get used to it. Dont stress.

Aye, not going to stress about it good advice. 
I have an older daughter who i now climb with so i know its a brief dip rather than the end of climbing.  the plan is to get the woodie in place, then I can climb without going far and maybe even stick the baby monitor in the garage with me in case. 

webbo

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Using the baby monitor in the garage is the way forward, also I found sticking to regular times and days to climb/train helped in not pissing the missus off. By always trying to sneak a day out or getting a session in.

lagerstarfish

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went to Stanage Le Bois. lots of easy stuff

*update*

can't have been that easy - I ache like fuck

my topping-out muscles have been well shocked

tommytwotone

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STG: Maintain fitness / climbing ability with imminent sprog arrival
LTG: Gawd knows

M: started feeling under the weather so decided to go to gym and "sweat it out"...actually had a good hour's cardio, then started feeling terrible once I got home.
T: Woke up full of cold.
W: Still felt crap.
T: More feeling crap.
F: More crap.
S: Even more crap.
S: Didn't feel quite so crap to went to the wall and climbed like crap.




Schnell

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STG: 7B this bouldering season (still a possibility but I've only a vague idea of which 7B to try and need to get out more or it won't happen.

M: Bought month bouldering wall membership. Started doing some campussing and focusing on power and roof bouldering.
T
W: Rained off in morning so instead went board climbing and started weighted hangs on large edges a la Lopez as discussed elsewhere on the forum, I'd been stagnating on the smaller edges. Embarrassingly/surprisingly discovered that half-crimped I can only hang a few kgs more on the BM #5s than the #10s, room for improvement obviously. Eve went to wall, more campussing, core and roof bouldering
T: Core, hanging leg raises, push ups x 50 etc.
F: Eve bouldering, got one roof proj and made progress on another before running out of puff. More importantly starting to enjoy roof climbing more and more.
S
S: Raining most places so bouldering in a fairly scrappy local venue, did a new 7A which, sentimentally, is the SS to the first ever outdoor problem I tried, a 6A. Only adds one move too. Still, got it fairly handily. 1st new 7 of 2014. Eve did some more max hangs.

webbo

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Mon. Turbo 1 hour. Fasting day.
Tue. Board try some old projects manage 3 of them.
Wed. Fasting however crack and end up eating pasta and drinking wine.
Thu. Dumbbell workout. Turbo 1 hr.fasting day.
Fri. Board manage a project that I'd given up as I could get close to one of the moves a couple of months ago. Repeat a few things in good style.
Sat. Board 15 problems to warm up, then circuit of 6 problems 4 times. Dumbbell workout.
Sun. Planned to go on a long ride but it was pissing down. Turbo 1hr20mins dried up out on the road 2hrs 30mins knackered.
Weight today tues 11st6.1lbs.

shark

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my topping-out muscles have been well shocked

I don't remember the last time I used those. What was the view like ?


tomtom

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my topping-out muscles have been well shocked

I don't remember the last time I used those. What was the view like ?

Bring your porta-ladder along later and I can give you some preparatory training..

SA Chris

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does anybody have tips on maintaining climbing once babies arrive?  due in May/June... I'm currently clearing the garage for a small 45 degree woodie... well working out if thats possible, looks viable.  thats my plan B.  Any advice welcomed on managing when the little ones land.

I would do the build before child arrives if possible (and for general purpose use a 30 degree might be better). Accept that for a few months things are going to be quite chaotic and your priorities are going to be a) keeping yourself and your family fed and clothed b) keeping yourself and your partner sane c) getting enough sleep so you can get perform basic tasks like a full day's work, getting to work and back safely and handling household appliances without losing a digit or two and finally d) actually doing things in life you used to enjoy. Accept that the first 3 months will be really shit, and if they are not consider it a bonus. If you can do a bit of exercise or a bit of bouldering once or twice a week great, but don't fret too much if you don't, and also give your partner some downtime as she will be shattered as well. I used to get home get the little one in the pushchair or baby carrier and go straight out for a walk every evening (OK in June, but was a bit tricky for us in the coldest January on record!). Just go with the flow for a bit and know that it will get easier.

Ti_pin_man

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I would do the build before child arrives if possible (and for general purpose use a 30 degree might be better).

Yeah I agree, some good advice for me there, cheers!   :2thumbsup:

I did some research and eased the angle to 40 degree in plan, I still want to keep it at 40 nothing slacker because my usual weakness is steep stuff. 

I like idea of getting out straight for a walk after I get home from work.  Give the mrs a well earned break for an hour before putting them in the bath and feed and bed.  tbh if I get to use the woddie once a week I'll be happy and as they grow it'll get used to get me back into it.

SA Chris

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It also means you at least get a bit of exercise; with a decent pushchair you can actually jog a bit. We had a good baby carrier, and I used to take my camera along and take some pics. Also had a good opportunity to explore the local seacliffs(got into a couple of slightly worrying situations!) and found quite a lot of unclimbed boudering. I accept the availability of this is probably an unusual case.

lagerstarfish

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my topping-out muscles have been well shocked

I don't remember the last time I used those. What was the view like ?

the ground looked a lot further away than it does when traversing

I also noticed that the beginnings of male pattern baldness is more apparent from up there

there were no women with low neck lines and deep cleavages around that day - if that's what you were asking about

nik at work

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Fuck it, just done a massive long post of my week and computer logged me out and it's gone. Hmmmm

Anyway synopsis:

One armer/deadhang mission was going OK then elbow issue meant change of focus so now doing mono front levers on the bottom row first joint mono (current performance middle - 10s, ring - 10s, index - 5s). I'll be injured next week I imagine...

shark

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I'll be injured next week I imagine...


if not you deserve to be  ;)

Duma

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STG - get up to speed without reinjuring anything
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - work in morning, finish building bike pm. TCA in eve, wanted to ride new toy but dark by time finished. Went round the greens from Saturdays comp - pretty pleased, even burned Uncle off on some dirty vert crimps! Think I would've made 2nd or 3rd (though only 5th or so if you count the juniors - it's hard climbing at the same wall as Hamish and James) so pleased.
T -
W - play on bike for couple of hours.
T - 
F - Bike again for an hour in AM, then TCA for brief session - circuits up to 7a+ plus got one of the new reds, then evening shift. Few pints after.
S - walk the gf's dog for couple of hrs
S -
 
69kg

Sasquatch

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Late post. 

STG1 - January Sharkathon
STG2 - Trip to Red River Gorge 1st week of March - OS 5.13a, RP multiple 5.13's. 
MTG - 8B FA

M- Boulder in Boulder Canyon.  Did one 7C+ and worked another 7C+ coming super close(vids on the the non-qual thread). Also worked an 8A.
T- Work all day - 30 Min hike/Run in evening
W- Boulder in Boulder Canyon. Finished off the 7C+ from Monday, and did another 7C, 7B+, 7B, 7A+, and 7A.  Also worked two other 8A's
Th- Run 30 min
F- Max Hangs and PE set
S- run 30 min
S- Max Hangs-Felt shit so sacked off and went and climbed routes at Gym.

Overall a really Good Week!

Luke Owens

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Late reply from me this week. Had an amazing day bouldering last Sunday.

Monday: Few throws on Roof LH at a damp Hope Mnt.

45 mins Aerocap
3 x 30 Aquaman's
3 x 1min Dish
 
Tuesday: Boardroom routes

5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+

Moved onto the Piscobloc routes as they'd been reset. Good Power Endurance session: 6c (4th go) Tried the 7a ~10 times. Failing ~13 moves in about 7 times then failing ~17 moves in about 3 times.

Abs: ~2mins of leg raises with mate pushing legs down
3 x 1min Dish
3 x 20 Supermans
3 x 30 Aquamans
 
Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Rest
 
Friday: Cave session

Warmed up with a few laps on Split Traverse 6B

Made progress on Shothole Start (7A) Can do all the moves now but spent hours working out about 2 of them. Did the 6C end to the trav various times in the session.

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Hit the pit in Ogwen Valley, warmed up repeating "Pit Start" (6C) first go then took ages to do "Jez's Arete" (6C) then managed the best problem I've ever done "Harvey Oswald" (7A) wanted to do this ever seen I saw a pick of Katz on it in the NWB guide. Mega psyched!

Had no skin left but headed over to the Pass and had a load goes on "Fish Skin Wall" (7A+) came really close but skin failed on me.

I'm currently massively psyched for bouldering!

 

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