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UKB Power Club Week 205 Mon 13th - Sun 19th Jan (Read 11812 times)

csl

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Goals for Month

Climb 3x a week 4/3
25 Problems on Biscuit Comp Wall - 17/25
2x Sessions on a Rope - 1/2
1x Outside 1/1
Lose a Kilo - 75.6kg down to 74.8kg

Goals for Winter

V8/7B indoors/ Get stronger on Boulders
Book a sport climbing trip

Mon- run 5.3km - 25mins

Tue- Biscuit - Unfocused session, tried font 7B+ on comp wall, can't do last move. Tried lots of other problems, but left a little unsure what i had actually done. Did 1-4-6 easily on the campus board - PB on normal sized rungs.

Wed- Biscuit - Good circuits session.
            6a x 2,
            7a x 1,
            7b x 5 attempts - 3 clean, 2 carried on into 7a - got to hold 12.
            7a x 5 attempts - 1 clean and 4 to 2nd last move.
            6c into 6a x1
            Feet on Campus - 1 set of 50, 1 set of 25. 
Thu- Rest

Fri- Better Strength session - went in morning so it was quiet. Did White V6 - 4th go. Onsighted two V5's. Tried another 2 V6's. One    nearly done.

Sat- Tried another White V6, all but 2nd last move done. Tried White V7. Worked sequence on french 7c traverse on Comp wall - one two move section near the start i haven't worked out, but into that is ok. And from there move 8 to move 20 is ok, 2nd last move is hard. Then tried to work some weaknesses on the slabs, did two V5's - both 2nd go, neither climbed very slab-like though. 
Sun- rest

This week - keep eating well, 1 roped session tomorrow, 2 boulder sessions and hopefully get out next weekend.

fried

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Monday - Indoor, I knew I shouldn't have bothered, I was tired and achey from Sunday. Completely predictably it got worse and I ended up doing a load of back stretches, 2h.
Tuesday - 40mins Theraband, antagonistics, first time for ages.

Wednesday - Shoulder hurts and I'm not working in the afternoon, pissed off ruining my free afternoon, so walk back from La Defense to home in 1h30 at 8.5 mins per km speed. Get home starving as all I've eaten is some fruit for breakfast.

Thursday - 30mins Antagonistics.
Friday - Same as Thursday
Saturday - DIY all day, 1h walking, 30 mins antagonistics. First day over my allowed calorie intake due to sis-in-law leaving bowls of cashews everywhere and then making us eat birthday cake.

Sunday - As every week the Thursday weather report teased with likely O.K conditions, the crapped out with overnight rain. May've been O.K outside late afternoon.... Indoor 3h shoulder felt better for climbing on it.

No work tomorrow, but I suspect the weather is going to conspire against me again.

Weight up to 75.9kg today from 75.4 midweek, although I've gone down a belt hole in my climbing troos.

Week 2 sharkathon done, though just.

shark

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11.6-8

M. Eve Fingerboard session which included 7sec crimped hang on the #10 with +10kg and 8sec chisel/drag with +15Kg
T.  PM. Burbage West. Weather looked threatening but stayed ok. Met Tomtom and got to work on WSS - caught but didnt hold 3rd sidepull a dozen times. No split tips and a great problem which seems do-able. Eve Foundry with Poppy Messed about on a few problems and campus board
W. Eve Foundry. Had a go self top roping on the autobelayers (scary) and then did a load of easy (level one) problems
T. PM. Fingerboard session. No progress. Eve Dolly's Shed with Dolly and Norton. Managed a problem for once  ;D
F. PM. Quick PE type session on Systems board
S. 30 min jog with Poppy around Burbage just before nightfall
S. eatswood. Chris 205 and friend Andy where there. Chris got ET. Did some good links on the Reverse and altered sequence for last hard move. Tried a couple of the up problems with Dolly.

Good week. Lost a couple more pounds. Started drinking again though.  :spank:  Psyched to try West Side Story again this week.

 


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Monday : 10 x 23m routes at Sunderland. Pyramid 6b-7a doing each twice. Good session. Shoulders and antagonists p.m.

Tues: Gym 30 mins HIIT on bike. 2 min intervals. 3x core circuit including unstable stuff with gym ball and footloops...Bench press 3 x 40 Kg, Glutes and toe press. Shoulders and antagonists p.m.

Wed: Board... 3x 20 move circuit on warm up board. Core " fishing " footholds from various BM holds. 12 move problem on biggish holds holding lock 3-4s before taking each hold... repeated 3x. BM hangs one arm with up to 80% body weight. Hung 5mm edges on warm up board with both hands.

         p.m. session at Climbnewcastle 8 problems 3x each. Fingery probs then easy problems to warm down.

Thurs: Gym session same as Tues. Shoulders and antagonists p.m.

Fri: Board session the same as Tues but including laddering on crimps and locking off on pinches. Shoulders and antagonists p.m.

Sat: Shovelled gravel most of the day, landscaping Bungalow gardens... then the Finchale steps. 40 mins 3 circuits 459 steps climbed 390 of them running... big improvement on last week... !!

Sun: Cimbnewcastle for boulders... tried all competition problems flashed a reasonable number of them but completely shut down on all harder ones.  Rested then 8 hard boulders 3x each.

Still on target for Sharkathon         62Kg ..... 2Kg to lose.

tomtom

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2014 totals:
Outside 3
Indoor 2
Training 6

M: Gentle assisted one armer training and deadhangs (back three). Struggling on 20kg assists (creaky..)

T: Burbage west: Met up with Shark and introduced him to West Side Story... there was precious little dry to warm up on - and three hours later we were still on it (I think I've got him hooked on a straight up grit problem..) ;) I MADE SOME PROGRESS! Now, I am consistently getting the second RH sidepull and bringing my feet up. But - I kept sagging off after catching the third RH sidepull... until Shark suggested using the Dave McLoed 'head butt' technique - which amazingly worked and I caught the third sidepull twice.. Woo!
Got home and did some 20kg assisted one armers (AOA's)..

W: Trip to London to do some filming (1st class! - nice breakfast..)

T: Lunchtime mini fingerboard session (back three) and a few (very hard) 20kg AOA's...
Evening over to Andy Popps garage of torture.. good 90 mins - felt destroyed when I left!

F: Ache

S: Felt like I had zero energy. Did absolutely nothing all day

Su: Trowbarrow. It was wet. It rained as I arrived, but it gradually dried and myself and Prof Popp managed to get a good couple of hours working Pit Problem.. Bizarre- as I warmed up on the problem, and did my best on the third attempt. TBH conditions were appalling - and most of the holds were in varying degrees of gop (especially the R heel that kept slippign off for me).. Back home and absolutely pissed a set of 20kg AOA's... why? Should be knackered after bouldering... anyway - might have to take a couple of KG's off for next week!

tomtom

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Good week. Lost a couple more pounds. Started drinking again though.  :spank:  Psyched to try West Side Story again this week.

Tomorrow morning? 10:30ish?

Muenchener

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STG (January): obtain or build doorway mounting rig for beastmaker.
            ARC on overhanging wall 15 minutes. Currently: 16:00 yyfy.
            Turkish Get-Up w/20kg kettlebell.
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint. Two hundred practice falls by Easter - currently: 15
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. ARC/aerocap. ARC/Aerocap 2 x 16 minutes. First round on mixed vertical/overhanging ground, second round entirely overhanging. STG reached yyfy.
W:
T: Kettlebell 20kg 3 x 25 swings, tgu training 2x1 shoulder press & hold top position, 2x2 press from lying position and hold locked out for 10 secs. Mobility & knee physio exercises as warm-up.
F:
S-S: Evening hillwalk w/summit bivvy*, Simetsberg

* Planned, with homemade chicken curry and a nice bottle** of dry riesling
** Sigg bottle

andy popp

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S-S: Evening hillwalk w/summit bivvy*, Simetsberg

* Planned, with homemade chicken curry and a nice bottle** of dry riesling
** Sigg bottle

Stylish!

andy popp

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M - core/shoulders (light)
T - core/shoulders in the day. Board in the evening, good session! Did a new problem and then worked another new one Pete did the week before. Got really solid on the two cruxes I couldn't touch the week before. Couple of solid attempts.
W - core/shoulders (light)
T - Board again. Had hoped to finish the problem from Tues but wasn't quite recovered really, core especially. Felt quite strong on some other moves though.
F - core/shoulders
S - slightly hungover
S - Trowbarrow (see TT's entry above). It was a pretty horrible and I was somewhat overwhelmed at first but got quite into Pit Problem after a while. Terrible conditions. Shoulders ache a bit now so must have done some work.

duncan

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STG - Don’t get injured; 2 sessions a week with a rope on, emphasis on endurance.
MTG - 7b RP this winter; E5 OS next summer; LH&F BHAGs in Yosemite
June 2014.
LTG - LH&F BHAGs in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

M - Collect family from Heathrow. Stretches, usual shoulder and elbow preventative stuff.
T - Short run, with offspring.
W - Building site fitness. Pullups.
T - Hilly run. Stretches, usual shoulder and elbow preventative stuff.
F - Biscuit factory. Easy problems 'on the minute' (c.60 V0-V1 in 1 hour). Finger a bit sore after.
S - Building site fitness. Stretches.
S - Family walk. Stretches, shoulder and elbow preventative stuff. Pull-ups.

Enforced quiet week. Catching up with family, winter sniffles, finger a little tweaky following last week’s exploits. Weight 72.9kg, creeping up, need to watch this. Plan: easy trad.  um, something like this.

kelvin

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Still trollied by the flu and lungs just weren't giving breath till Thursday.

Fri - Boulder room for a new set. Flashed all 18 V0 problems with no rest and had to go home. Utterly shagged  :-[

Sat - Same as above.

Sun - Stanage Plantation. Gopping when we got there but quickly dried by lunch. Did some slabs up to V2. Unexpectedly seconded Tower Face Direct and found it fair steady. A good afternoon.

So grit is not something I've ever enjoyed but I'd only ever used ropes and climbed in summer. Winter was just so different. The grip is amazing, bouldering is less faff anyway and I reckon I'll make the trip way more often now.

Really pleased to get on the E2, even as a second. Cruised up it to be honest, which is not something I could have done two months ago and leading it doesn't feel miles away. Stood up at the crux on two tiny pebbles and felt as secure as I would have on a thin slate break. Bloody brilliant!  ;D

205Chris

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S. eatswood. Chris 205 and friend Andy where there.

That would be this man

Quote
Chris got ET.
Largely due to the pressure of not wanting to fall off the last move on film  ;)

cheque

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Temps make all the difference on grit eh Kelvin?

STG- full range of movement in fingers, grit trad fun.

M- Old-school strength- pushups, pull-ups, bicep curls w/ slightly increased weight from last week.

T- Ill with weird one-day cough/ sinus thing.

W- Swimming. 45 lengths this time: 5 up from last week.

T- Notts Depot. First indoor session this year. Did all the juggy problems and some juggy circuit board  :yawn: . The latter hasn't been reset since October and is polished as fuck, plus I was pumped after two laps of it. :( Only slight twinge from left finger at one point, otherwise seems to have done my fingers (if not my psyche) good.

F- Dumbell strength business.

S- Rest.

S- Burbage North. Lovely day for soloing, providing your chosen routes don't have deep cracks or breaks. Lots of fun ;D .

kelvin

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Temps make all the difference on grit eh Kelvin?



Yep - I'm quite shocked! Also at how quickly it dried when there wasn't much wind. We stopped at Burbage at about 11am and it was minging, so nice to hear you got some stuff done there too. Top arvo.

shark

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Good week. Lost a couple more pounds. Started drinking again though.  :spank:  Psyched to try West Side Story again this week.

Tomorrow morning? 10:30ish?


Errrr OK text me tomorrow.

tomtom

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Roger. Wilco. Out.

John Gillott

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What's the betting, success first on WSS or The Oak?

shark

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What's the betting, success first on WSS or The Oak?

Oak most likely won't be dry to end of Feb so we'll know by then

JackAus

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STG: Finger recovery then V7 & DWS Project.
LTG: V11

M: Work early. No climbing. Skin growth day... Easy core and an hour on stationary bike in PM.
T: DWS early. 2 attempts. Couple of rest days do me wonders. Got all the way to the last hard move in complete control, no throwing to the intermediate, just locked it smoothly. Still didn't feel any closer on the slap though. 2nd attempt, managed to keep right foot on when cutting the toe. Again slap too short. Repeated a fun V3 with 2 precarious mantles and put up a new 6m V4. Sketchy slabbing into a roof cap. Onsighted it but fuck was I scared after a couple of irreversible (probably were but I wouldn'tve wanted to!) rock overs on small crimps...
W: Work early. Easy core and stationary bike.
T: DWS early. Just the one attempt. Quite tired and not very psyched. No cut, got the crimp fairly easily but didn't have it in me to try and bone down... 7a traverse, mantley V3 and dyno-ey V3. Traversed in to both lines so did majority of the 7a again... V3 dyno is one of my favourite climbs here, just a shame/annoyance that its 2/3 along the traverse with the only other way of starting is to get wet... So fun. Work late...
F: Work early. PM Trek for hours through very thick bush to try and find a couple of lost to the ages bouldering walls with lines up to V12. Thought I'd found them but apparently not. Really pissing me off that I can't find them. No one has climbed there in 10+ years and no one can remember how to get to them...
S: DWS early. Warm up on mantley V3, didn't have the psyche for the whole traverse... 4 attempts on project. Getting smoother in the crux, no more cutting. Really boning down on the intermediate now, 3rd attempt right hand blew and took a good portion of my fingertip, 4th attempt managed to give myself a blood blister. Fuck its a small crimp. More controlled slap about 3 inch short of the top. Work late...
S: Rest day. Easy bush walk with parents... Wanted to go out for a boulder/clean something new but I just took one look at my fingertip and forget about it...

Finger seems to be improving still. Slowly but surely. Trying to strengthen it as much as I can. Same pulley, same finger on other hand feels abit iffy after Saturday's attempts. It really did take a big chunk out when it blew.

Been way too hot for bouldering this week. Usually starting climbing from about 8am while its still cool and the wall is in the shade, then finishing about noon-ish. Weather has now turned "cold" from being mid 30s all the week to raining and low 20s.

lagerstarfish

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14.8 (YYFY!) - 14.12

M - 12 easy auto belay routes. felt like I was moving well, but weak fingers. some pull ups - managed 13 in one go. jumping off stuff for ankle rehab. jog machine and static bike. 3 x (30 pressups, 8kg dumbell complex)

T - realised that work is getting pretty stressful. short staffed, high targets, start of re-tendering.

W - cooked a trevally. big success

Th - 10 auto belay routes "6a" to "7a+" Virgin Active over graded. wooden legs for some reason. fingers not great. 3 x 8 slow pullups. 3 x 12 slow dips. jumping off stuff for ankle rehab. stretching. unstructured light weights machines. jog machine. low motivation

F - took child to swimming lesson. chatting practice with other parents.

S - Play Arena with the kids. Speleo conditioning reps in a crossfit style. surprisingly not too packed for a rainy saturday morning. several reps of bollocking other peoples kids and offending overweight people by questioning their parenting techniques. suspect I was being a dick. 3 pints Easy Rider in the evening.

Sun - jogging after our little lad on his balance bike. had hoped to get to eatswood, but time constraints meant going nearer. headed towards Owler and Mother Cap, but realised that I didn't have plastic for the parking. went to Stanage Le Bois. lots of easy stuff breaking in unused pinks. 2 pints Easy Rider

Muenchener

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F - took child to swimming lesson. chatting practice with other parents.

Mine has reached the age where my main role in his swimming career is providing hints and tips on how to deal with petty aggression in the changing rooms. He has to learn to stand up for himself, so I have to rigorously hold back the temptation to do any of this:

Quote
S - ... bollocking other peoples kids

(No criticism of you meant here btw Lagers, I get the impression yours are smaller)

A sad reflection on the human race that each generation seems to invent the wet towel flick independently.

lagerstarfish

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the 4 yr old can stick up for herself

my main worry is that the 2 yr old will learn bad habits from the unkind kids

both of them were confused by the fact that I was making them behave a certain way whilst other kids were doing dumb stuff. in the absence of any form of enforcement I decided to go all Wyatt Earp on  the situation - I'd do this in other situations even if my kids weren't there; someone has to try something to stop them all growing up to become corporate lawyers or gangsters. I do it in a good humoured, polite way

Ti_pin_man

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STG: a F7a indoors

M - core101 / 3 hours climb hard
T - gym set / commute 20 miles / core101
W - gym set / commute 20 miles
T - gym set / commute 20 miles / x2 sets of repeaters
F - climbed medium working a 6c+
S - rest - bourbon tasting evening forces a day of rest
S - see above, hangover.  :D

the gym sets are new and trying to be eva lopez stylee climbing specific.  I do them at the gym at work once I get off the bike and do some stretches.  will try them for a month and see how they go.  I dropped the push up challenge this week as I think I'm doing enough supplementary training anyway. 

does anybody have tips on maintaining climbing once babies arrive?  due in May/June... I'm currently clearing the garage for a small 45 degree woodie... well working out if thats possible, looks viable.  thats my plan B.  Any advice welcomed on managing when the little ones land.

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does anybody have tips on maintaining climbing once babies arrive?  due in May/June... I'm currently clearing the garage for a small 45 degree woodie... well working out if thats possible, looks viable.  thats my plan B.  Any advice welcomed on managing when the little ones land.


Don't beat yourself up if you don't do much/anything over the first couple of/few months. You only need to do 30 mins a few times a week to keep your eye in as well. Take the long view - it gets easier as they get older and you get used to it. Dont stress.


M Pilates
T Foundry. I was shit on the wave couldnt even do a level 2 so went on the board were I was quite shit as well. Punished myself by beastmaking in the evening.
W Some aero and a lot of core at the Gym.
T Big shed sess with Shark and Norton. Did a lot and was managed not to go the pub afterwards. A good session.
F Ached after Thursday night
S Very small amount of aeorbic stuff at the gym
S eatswood. At least it wasn't an ice cold wind. Met 205 Chris. Then managed to fail on the traverse at the same place I always do. Shark even filmed my repeated crapness should I need proof of my lack of ability to climb more than a few moves in a row without getting knackered. Decided I've had enough of repeated failure on the traverse and that I'm not going to go there again. Got something from the day by doing Hats for Percys in the lovely light at the end of the afternoon.


So no more eatswood. I've wasted enough time going there. Back to the shorter problems that are more fun for me.

T_B

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85.7Kg  :)

M -
T - Foundry, lunch. CWP fingerboard + 60 press ups + 120 crunches
W - Foundry Lunch. Circuit board - completed 'old' 20-move easy circuit 4 times and tried a harder circuit a few times.
T - P.M. Works. Comp wall - better than Sunday, but sore elbows and felt a bit too trashed at the end.
F - rest
S - Decided to move CWP sess to Sunday and rested..
S - Got the morning slot, so easy decision not to try and get outside. Works - started with CWP fingerboard sess and felt good, then did 30 mins on the Motherboard, doing 2 x problems on each side, then 1 hour on the circuit board, 5 x attempts at the Brown 8a, fell off at the pocket (move 24) 3 times. Brilliant training session. Drove the wife to Curbar and pottered with the kids...

Pretty good week, bit of a shame I couldn't get outside on the weekend (though watched the murmuration of starlings above Stoney on Sunday evening, which was awesome). Need to watch my elbows as I stupidly beasted them on the Comp wall on Thursday. Keen to try and repeat the Brown 8a before the end of my 6-wk block of PE (I'm 3 weeks into it). Also pysched to get on the Motherboard again, as it's a lot more 'accessible' now there are a few more decent footholds on it. Well into the CWP one arm assisted hangs now.

Ti_pin_man

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Don't beat yourself up if you don't do much/anything over the first couple of/few months. You only need to do 30 mins a few times a week to keep your eye in as well. Take the long view - it gets easier as they get older and you get used to it. Dont stress.

Aye, not going to stress about it good advice. 
I have an older daughter who i now climb with so i know its a brief dip rather than the end of climbing.  the plan is to get the woodie in place, then I can climb without going far and maybe even stick the baby monitor in the garage with me in case. 

webbo

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Using the baby monitor in the garage is the way forward, also I found sticking to regular times and days to climb/train helped in not pissing the missus off. By always trying to sneak a day out or getting a session in.

lagerstarfish

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went to Stanage Le Bois. lots of easy stuff

*update*

can't have been that easy - I ache like fuck

my topping-out muscles have been well shocked

tommytwotone

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STG: Maintain fitness / climbing ability with imminent sprog arrival
LTG: Gawd knows

M: started feeling under the weather so decided to go to gym and "sweat it out"...actually had a good hour's cardio, then started feeling terrible once I got home.
T: Woke up full of cold.
W: Still felt crap.
T: More feeling crap.
F: More crap.
S: Even more crap.
S: Didn't feel quite so crap to went to the wall and climbed like crap.




Schnell

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STG: 7B this bouldering season (still a possibility but I've only a vague idea of which 7B to try and need to get out more or it won't happen.

M: Bought month bouldering wall membership. Started doing some campussing and focusing on power and roof bouldering.
T
W: Rained off in morning so instead went board climbing and started weighted hangs on large edges a la Lopez as discussed elsewhere on the forum, I'd been stagnating on the smaller edges. Embarrassingly/surprisingly discovered that half-crimped I can only hang a few kgs more on the BM #5s than the #10s, room for improvement obviously. Eve went to wall, more campussing, core and roof bouldering
T: Core, hanging leg raises, push ups x 50 etc.
F: Eve bouldering, got one roof proj and made progress on another before running out of puff. More importantly starting to enjoy roof climbing more and more.
S
S: Raining most places so bouldering in a fairly scrappy local venue, did a new 7A which, sentimentally, is the SS to the first ever outdoor problem I tried, a 6A. Only adds one move too. Still, got it fairly handily. 1st new 7 of 2014. Eve did some more max hangs.

webbo

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Mon. Turbo 1 hour. Fasting day.
Tue. Board try some old projects manage 3 of them.
Wed. Fasting however crack and end up eating pasta and drinking wine.
Thu. Dumbbell workout. Turbo 1 hr.fasting day.
Fri. Board manage a project that I'd given up as I could get close to one of the moves a couple of months ago. Repeat a few things in good style.
Sat. Board 15 problems to warm up, then circuit of 6 problems 4 times. Dumbbell workout.
Sun. Planned to go on a long ride but it was pissing down. Turbo 1hr20mins dried up out on the road 2hrs 30mins knackered.
Weight today tues 11st6.1lbs.

shark

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my topping-out muscles have been well shocked

I don't remember the last time I used those. What was the view like ?


tomtom

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my topping-out muscles have been well shocked

I don't remember the last time I used those. What was the view like ?

Bring your porta-ladder along later and I can give you some preparatory training..

SA Chris

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does anybody have tips on maintaining climbing once babies arrive?  due in May/June... I'm currently clearing the garage for a small 45 degree woodie... well working out if thats possible, looks viable.  thats my plan B.  Any advice welcomed on managing when the little ones land.

I would do the build before child arrives if possible (and for general purpose use a 30 degree might be better). Accept that for a few months things are going to be quite chaotic and your priorities are going to be a) keeping yourself and your family fed and clothed b) keeping yourself and your partner sane c) getting enough sleep so you can get perform basic tasks like a full day's work, getting to work and back safely and handling household appliances without losing a digit or two and finally d) actually doing things in life you used to enjoy. Accept that the first 3 months will be really shit, and if they are not consider it a bonus. If you can do a bit of exercise or a bit of bouldering once or twice a week great, but don't fret too much if you don't, and also give your partner some downtime as she will be shattered as well. I used to get home get the little one in the pushchair or baby carrier and go straight out for a walk every evening (OK in June, but was a bit tricky for us in the coldest January on record!). Just go with the flow for a bit and know that it will get easier.

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I would do the build before child arrives if possible (and for general purpose use a 30 degree might be better).

Yeah I agree, some good advice for me there, cheers!   :2thumbsup:

I did some research and eased the angle to 40 degree in plan, I still want to keep it at 40 nothing slacker because my usual weakness is steep stuff. 

I like idea of getting out straight for a walk after I get home from work.  Give the mrs a well earned break for an hour before putting them in the bath and feed and bed.  tbh if I get to use the woddie once a week I'll be happy and as they grow it'll get used to get me back into it.

SA Chris

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It also means you at least get a bit of exercise; with a decent pushchair you can actually jog a bit. We had a good baby carrier, and I used to take my camera along and take some pics. Also had a good opportunity to explore the local seacliffs(got into a couple of slightly worrying situations!) and found quite a lot of unclimbed boudering. I accept the availability of this is probably an unusual case.

lagerstarfish

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my topping-out muscles have been well shocked

I don't remember the last time I used those. What was the view like ?

the ground looked a lot further away than it does when traversing

I also noticed that the beginnings of male pattern baldness is more apparent from up there

there were no women with low neck lines and deep cleavages around that day - if that's what you were asking about

nik at work

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Fuck it, just done a massive long post of my week and computer logged me out and it's gone. Hmmmm

Anyway synopsis:

One armer/deadhang mission was going OK then elbow issue meant change of focus so now doing mono front levers on the bottom row first joint mono (current performance middle - 10s, ring - 10s, index - 5s). I'll be injured next week I imagine...

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I'll be injured next week I imagine...


if not you deserve to be  ;)

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STG - get up to speed without reinjuring anything
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - work in morning, finish building bike pm. TCA in eve, wanted to ride new toy but dark by time finished. Went round the greens from Saturdays comp - pretty pleased, even burned Uncle off on some dirty vert crimps! Think I would've made 2nd or 3rd (though only 5th or so if you count the juniors - it's hard climbing at the same wall as Hamish and James) so pleased.
T -
W - play on bike for couple of hours.
T - 
F - Bike again for an hour in AM, then TCA for brief session - circuits up to 7a+ plus got one of the new reds, then evening shift. Few pints after.
S - walk the gf's dog for couple of hrs
S -
 
69kg

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Late post. 

STG1 - January Sharkathon
STG2 - Trip to Red River Gorge 1st week of March - OS 5.13a, RP multiple 5.13's. 
MTG - 8B FA

M- Boulder in Boulder Canyon.  Did one 7C+ and worked another 7C+ coming super close(vids on the the non-qual thread). Also worked an 8A.
T- Work all day - 30 Min hike/Run in evening
W- Boulder in Boulder Canyon. Finished off the 7C+ from Monday, and did another 7C, 7B+, 7B, 7A+, and 7A.  Also worked two other 8A's
Th- Run 30 min
F- Max Hangs and PE set
S- run 30 min
S- Max Hangs-Felt shit so sacked off and went and climbed routes at Gym.

Overall a really Good Week!

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Late reply from me this week. Had an amazing day bouldering last Sunday.

Monday: Few throws on Roof LH at a damp Hope Mnt.

45 mins Aerocap
3 x 30 Aquaman's
3 x 1min Dish
 
Tuesday: Boardroom routes

5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+

Moved onto the Piscobloc routes as they'd been reset. Good Power Endurance session: 6c (4th go) Tried the 7a ~10 times. Failing ~13 moves in about 7 times then failing ~17 moves in about 3 times.

Abs: ~2mins of leg raises with mate pushing legs down
3 x 1min Dish
3 x 20 Supermans
3 x 30 Aquamans
 
Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Rest
 
Friday: Cave session

Warmed up with a few laps on Split Traverse 6B

Made progress on Shothole Start (7A) Can do all the moves now but spent hours working out about 2 of them. Did the 6C end to the trav various times in the session.

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Hit the pit in Ogwen Valley, warmed up repeating "Pit Start" (6C) first go then took ages to do "Jez's Arete" (6C) then managed the best problem I've ever done "Harvey Oswald" (7A) wanted to do this ever seen I saw a pick of Katz on it in the NWB guide. Mega psyched!

Had no skin left but headed over to the Pass and had a load goes on "Fish Skin Wall" (7A+) came really close but skin failed on me.

I'm currently massively psyched for bouldering!

 

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