2. DIY is shit and can lead to potential divorce - get someone in instead.
STG: Finger recovery then V7 and DWS project.LTG: V11M: AM DWS before it gets too hot. Had 5 attempts today. A couple of slaps for the top. Really need to lock allot deeper before the slap. Still about 8 inches short from topping.Mentioned this last week but had my worst fall so far.Mid-crux, 10m off the water, coming out of the roof and onto the face. Right foot up around my ears on a very slopey hold, bump rh to the micro crimp intermediate and the second I catch it well, foot slips. Windmill my fat arse into the water with enough rotation and height to have feet down but torso flat. Instantly winded and struggling under water. Only a couple metres from a exit ledge but took me about 30s to swim there, struggling. Sat on the ledge getting breath back for a couple of min before I could scramble out.Video is pretty funny. Will have to post it when I get my laptop fixed.Only had 1 attempt after the big fall. Tbh, was still in allot of pain, just forced myself back on it so I didn't get scared and wind up hating the line.Did another lap off the 45m 7a traverse and had a couple attempts of some of the lower lines.T: Hot. Worked until about 830pm then went for a night bouldering session. Rained when I got to the crag (massive roof cap on entire crag) making it really humid and sticky. Didn't climb that well. V7 project started to get wet fairly quickly, everything else is either miles too hard or I've done it... Left about midnight.W: Felt rubbish so just an easy hour on stationary bike before working late again.T: AM DWS. Felt pretty rubbish again. Warmed up on 7a traverse (not something I normally do. Normally just get straight on...). Timed my rests and limited myself to total of 2min spread over 2 rests. 2nd is always the longer of the 2...Then only 1 attempt at project. Fell in the crux, held the cut, struggled to place foot then didn't hold the crimp. Didn't feel good, decided to do lower lines.Did 2 lines, 1st is out of the first rest on traverse and 2nd is out of the 2nd (about 3/4 of the route).Both about V3 (lower wall is only about 5m high, so lines are getting boulder grades) but both very fun. 1 involving 2 precarious mantles and the other a wicked dyno that I flashed. Left chalk bag in the rest thinking I'd fall so did the full traverse again to get it. Struggled, pumped out of my mind... Only just made to 2nd rest...Work late...F: Work early. Finished at noon. Drove 2hrs to Canberra . Got word of an older, unknown V12 very local to me with loads more potential around it...Didn't do any exercise but my work is fairly physical. Lots of lifting shit.S: Boulder near Canberra. Already have no skin so pulling on tiny granite crimps will be fine, right? 2 of us cleaned up 4 new lines climbing 2 of them, getting V3 and V4. The V4 took us ages to work out until I found a hidden hold unlocking the whole thing. Repeated it much smoother for video. Very good climb. Shredded fingers...S: No climbing, no work. Easy 1hr on the stationary bike before drinking through the afternoon playing with Lego....Overall, finger is on the improve... Didn't feel good on the night boulder but then the rock at that crag always seems to savage my hands. Dws, as usual, it feels fine until the very crimpy crux. And granite bouldering, it wasn't too bad as I did my best to avoid small holds...Kicked off my developing year. Only 99 more new lines to go...Sunday and Monday rest. Then back on the project first thing Tuesday morning... Fingers fucking crossed...
Quote from: rich d on January 13, 2014, 09:07:01 am2. DIY is shit and can lead to potential divorce - get someone in instead. Word
Enjoying climbing but no psyche for training at the mo so giving power club a break for a while.
