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UKB Power Club Week 202 23rd Dec - 29th Dec (Read 5063 times)

shark

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UKB Power Club Week 202 23rd Dec - 29th Dec
December 29, 2013, 10:06:19 pm
11.7-11.10

M.
T. Decided I couldn't face dragging kids round Peak so taped up split tip and did a fingerboard session. Tommy surprised me by saying he'd been looking forward to going to Rubicon so headed out with him and Poppy and waded in. Kudos was dry and we had a good session on that. Got to high right hold a couple of times but didn't hold it
W.
T. Went to Remergence with Tommy. Too hot in sun. Chris205 turned up. Dom from Leek did Blind Drunk  :strongbench: Worked Blind Ali. Clouded over so tried Blind Date again. Struggling to get my left foot to connect above the lip. Failed on Remergence.
F. AM fingerboard session. PM foundry with Ben. Worked out a replica of the Oak crux but harder.
S. Tips in a state but weather too nice. Went to eatswood. Had a reasonable session
S. Drove to Devon

Good week. Pleased to be up to having 3 days on bouldering. Need to let skin recover though. Predictably overweight. 

csl

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Dec
Climb 3x a week 2/3
Get on a rope @ Westway - Done
Get outside once - done
Run - done

Winter
V8 indoors/generally get stronger bouldering.
Book a trip sport climbing in March/April.

Mon- Biscuit
Tue-Sat. Christmas related eating drinking and gaining weight
Sun - Cratcliffe/ robin hoods stride. Fell off a hvs with freezing cold hands and numb toes, oh dear. Did some easy bouldering. Had a look at razor roof.

Muenchener

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STG (January): obtain or build doorway mounting rig for beastmaker.
            ARC on overhanging wall 15 minutes. Currently: 15
            Turkish Get-Up w/20kg kettlebell.
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint. Two hundred practice falls by Easter - currently: 15
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Between The Years.

M:   Alpine approach / snowboard touring training. 10 x 10 stories stair climbing w/7 kg rucksack

T: Kettlebell 20kg 3 x 25 swings, tgu training 3 x shoulder press & hold top position. Mobility & knee physio exercises as warm-up, stretching afterwards. Almost managed Reverse Balances from Gimme Kraft book, which seemed impossible when I first got the book - a minor Christmas yyfy. Oh, also 3 x Lebkuchen; don't want to get too fit too quickly & injure myself.

W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Quick early morning session before cooking Christmas dinner. ARC/aerocap 16, 12, 16 minutes on predominantly overhanging walls, with some rests/shakeouts on vertical sections (strictly no bridging)

T: Wall, Heaven's Gate. This is the smallest, oldest and shabbiest of Munich's climbing walls and I rarely go there. But the setting as it turns out is quite decent, so I succumb to the temptation to play on boulders instead of diligently doing my aerocap sets. Hey, it's Christmas.

F: Snowboarding, Zugspitze. First outing for M jnr's Christmas snowboard. Not a great ski area, but the highest in Germany and therefore the only on with half decent snow at the moment. You can't buy a ten year old a snowboard for Christmas and then not go snowboarding.

S: Fly to .uk for family visit
S: Eating & drinking with my bro & his family; watched (and filmed) my 10 y.o. son teaching his uncle to skate; successfully avoided skating myself yyfy.

T_B

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85.7Kg  :-[

M -
T -
W -
T - Managed to tweak my left knee somehow. Swollen knee cap. Bit weird as no pain.
F - Overstretched my left achilles and could hardly walk, so home fingerboard session. Repeaters. The usual, plus 30 pull ups, 50 press ups and 80 crunches.
S - Achilles a bit better.
S - Screwed 15mm edge back onto home fingerboard. I'd taken this off in mid Oct as it interfered with using the bottom holds on the Moon board. The bottom slots feel too big now (certainly for two handed repeaters, not sure if I switch to CWP assisted). So did 3 x sets of repeaters half-crimped (6 x 7 secs) with 4 minutes, then 5 minutes rest in-between on the 15mm edge. Felt v good. Finished with 30 pull ups. Also 50 press ups and 80 crunches.

Definitely feel like the 15mm edge is a 'good size' for me now when I use the fingerboard at home. Might be that I just do assisted CWP hangs at the Foundry on the BM #14  and do simple double-handed repeaters at home (I always change the lock offs, so actually I'm doing 'encores').

duncan

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STG: Manage elbow tweak; ease in to leading on rock again.
MTG - Longish, Hardish and Freeish objectives in Yosemite June 2014
LTG - E5 os; 7b rp. BHAGs in Alps and Dolomites.

M - Arico gorge - 10 routes to 6b
T - Rest day
W - Vistamar - 5 routes to 6c. Almost too hot to climb.
T - Rest day - elbow tweaky.
F - Las Canadas - 5 routes to 6c.
S - El Rio - 8 routes to 6c.
S - Guaria - relative rest day - 3 routes to 6b.

Weather continues to be ideal in Tenerife. I've been here on 2 trips now for total of 4 weeks and have not yet had a day when it hasn't been possible to climb in good conditions. It's occasionally been a bit hot but a sensible choice of crag would mitigate this. On the forecast wet day we took a punt and drove up to Las Canadas, up on Teide the central peak, and were rewarded by fabulous cloud inversions and bright sunshine.

I'm not climbing strongly but getting a good amount of climbing (49 routes so far) and should be building some kind of fitness base. Will do two more mileage days and then might try to red-point something slightly harder at the end of the week.

Duma

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Apart from a couple of hours sawing and splitting logs at my parents, nothing.
But on sat aft was 67.5kg - unexpected but nice.

Sasquatch

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Goals:
Till May - No injuries, Clean up local sport routes, honest try on 8a Flash.
Summer 2014 - Long-term boulder project
Fall 2014 - Trip to Smith to check out To Bolt.....

M-
T-Pwr End Session
W-Eat/drink
Th-
F-Routes at Gym, plus a handful of boulders, low motivation
Sat-
Sun-Fun hard group session on the home wall.

Despite everything weight is still under 80kgs....

fried

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Nothing much to report, just killing a bit of time on the Eurostar.

Monday-Friday - eat plus drink
Saturday - Big rock. loads of easy stuff. eat drink.
Sunday - see Monday


tomtom

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2013 totals:
Outdoor: 114
Indoor: 4
Training: 11
New Grade 7's 21

M: Think I went to the Peak.. but might be wrong...
T: Beastmaker - then off to folks for Xmas etc..
W: stuff
T: Escaped over to Trowbarrow. made some limited progress on Vitruvian Man - pulled on more times, may have found an interesting sequence for the first move with LF on starting LH crimp for Ironman, and Right heel around corner. It feels really bunched getting my LF onto the larger (RH starting crimp for Ironman) hold and hooking around the corner. Time will tell..



F: Beastmaker - started working my back two - which I've decided are next to useless..
Sa: Football. Went to the KC and watched Hull put 6 past Fulham right in front of me :) back to Manc for party, was controlled as I wanted to get out on sunday..
Su: Plantation. Everyone seemed to be there.. there was a ticket system for green traverse :D Anyway - bumped into Guy, SteveR and Al in the car park and tagged along with the 'ull expats to warm up under the pebble - then headed over to Brass Monkey to try and escape the crowds.. There were a couple of folk on it (hello to the bloke who was also on Suavito a couple of weeks ago when there..) and I had a first go with plenty of gusto.. did a funny starting sequence where I decided to use a LF footlock - and lost it when slapping along the right edge to the better sloper.. fell back onto the mats, but my LF decided to stay in the heel toe, spinning me round, scraping up my right shin (below) and jarring my heel on my LF and bruising the top of my left foot. Today (monday) I feared I had broken metatarsal #4 as it was swollen and bruised around that area (and painful on top of the bone when prodded) and with some dread visited the minor injury unit for an xray... thankfully all clear. Though I wont be able to get a rock boot on for a few days as its bruised and swollen still. A lucky escape... MrsTT thinks I have bones of steel (as she's broken a toe and metatarsal in the last 24 months!)...


JackAus

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Stg: finger recovery then v7.
Ltg: V11

M: took mate to 2 new areas. 1st area he polished off a couple of projects giving them v5 and v7. I had a few goes on each but didn't feel up for trying to much. 2nd area right on the beach, skin is fucked by this point. I had a play on a project and we called it a day. Work late.
T: work late.
W: conform to stereotypes and put prawns on BBQ.
T: first time back at local training crag , lot 33, since tearing a pulley there 2 months ago. Hoping to maybe get back on new v7 line but was absolutely soaked. Just messed around with a mate making silly links.
F: dws. Made abit of progress on project by managing to hold a brutal cut loose on the shitty crux crimps. Still the big move to go though...
S: work all day. Get out after and managed to head to local trad crag and solo about 10 easy routes. Good little circuit that I can do in about an hour. Not hard, only up to about HVS and all fairly short...
S: dash up to Sydney for the day for some bouldering (wing cave). Warmish but slopers everywhere... I was slipping off everything... Best I managed was a v5. Made most of the moves on a v7 but definitely want a spotter and more than 1 pad...

Fairly good week. Why do I have to be a day ahead over here, Mondays climb was brilliant... I'm also pleased there's now a couple new v7's nearby to try and they've all been lines that I've found and cleaned...

cheque

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STG- 7A in a session, 7A+ sieged on grit this season.

M- Rest, iced finger.
T- Rest, iced finger.
W- Rest, eating, iced finger.
T- Walk, eating, iced finger.
F- Rest, iced finger.
S- Stanage walk. Photographed/ spotted mates bouldering. Iced finger.
S- Drove to Blackpool, watched Championship football. Staying in Travelodge so no ice for finger.

Bad week- can't climb due to tweaked finger but at least it's responding to treatment (and wasn't that bad in the first place) so hopefully back on it next weekend. In a way it's good that it's coincided with both the Christmas period and (largely) crap weather as it's been easy to not climb but it's also been easy to lose all psyche and not train at all. 


nik at work

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M -S : nothing, Christmas 'innit?

Managed to not put on much/any weight despite doing literally no exercise last week. Return to action this week hopefully...

Luke Owens

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Had a great week, really didn't expect to have such a great day's bouldering after over eating at Christmas! First V7/7A+, I said at the beginning of the year I wanted to tick one but I really didn't think it would happen!

Monday: Rest

Tuesday: Rest

Wednesday: Eating Loads

Thursday: 2.5 Mile Boxing Day Walk

Beastmaker Session:
4 x 25 Pressups

Deadhangs:
30mm Edge - 27 secs hang
20mm Edge - 5sec, 6sec, 5sec, 5sec, 5sec
35's Slopers - 5sec, 5sec, 5sec, 5sec, 6sec

Weighted Pullups:
10kg - 30mm Edge - 3reps, 5reps, 4reps, 5reps, 5reps

Ab Session Cut Short:
1min Dish
20 Aquaman's

Friday:
50 PressUps
30mins AeroCap

Saturday: Brisk 2 mile walk.

Sunday: The best days bouldering I've ever had! Went to the Griben Facet in Ogwen Valley with a strong team.

Started off repeating "Red Sky Wall" 6C then took 3 goes to do the 7A+ sit start. First of the grade for me! Psyched!

Did another crimpy problem called "Slanted.." gets 6C/+ in the guide on UKC it's down as 7A, did it in about 4 goes.

Went over to the Pit and managed to do "Pit Start" 6C/+ at the end of the session. Had to try hard as I was knackered!

Great way to finish off the year!

Ti_pin_man

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No shocker, last week was a sweet FA week. 
But I did manage a few hours at climb newcastle doing their new purple set up to 6b. 
<cartoon voice> Thats all folks.

Dolly

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Hope you're OK soon TT
M Gym core and some limited aerobic
T Beastmaker before work in the morning
W semi sober cricket bowling as fast as I could with son and brother in law in mother in laws garden post xmas lunch. Both shoulders still hurt a bit. Serves me right
T Long muddy and very enjoyable run
F Shed
S tennis
S tennis and weights

webbo

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Mon. Board hardish mirror session. Dumbell workout. turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. I had planned to go on the board, but as I'd got lots of new Assos cycling kit bike 2hrs 45 mins.
Thu. Board did original mirror session from 7 months ago, seemed steady compared to new versions. Bike 2hrs 30 mins.
Fri. Dumbell workout.
Sat. Bamford abit too exposed in the wind, struggled. Did through the k hole, the moves on the sitter to bookend and snare stand up. Went for a look at Curber Loafstone, brief play before it rained.
Sun. bike 3 hours.

andy popp

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2013 totals:
Outdoor: 114
Indoor: 4
Training: 11
New Grade 7's 21

M: Think I went to the Peak.. but might be wrong...

You've obviously subconsciously blocked all memory of your first, traumatic visit to my board ...

Really glad to hear the foot isn't too bad.

andy popp

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M - great board session with TT and Will Hunt. Can pull for the first time in a month without pain. Feel not too shabby at all.
Tuesday through to Saturday - variously shopping, cooking, eating, packing, driving and crappy nights on parents sofa
S - bag an unexpected afternoon at Huntsham with old friends. The crag is pretty damp and I'm climbing like some sort of turnip (unsurprisingly) but the weather is beautiful, it's a lovely bonus day out and I really enjoy the four problems I manage. Get to see what a proper strong youth looks like when the teenager with us easily dispatches a very damp 8A in about ten minutes. Impressive!

 

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