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Which Sport quickdraws, and what length? (Read 3817 times)

StillTryingForTheTop

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Which Sport quickdraws, and what length?
December 24, 2013, 09:25:19 am
I am thinking of getting a set of sport quickdraws with my saved birthday and any Christmas money as my phantoms are a bit fiddly on sport routes.

I am currently looking at the DMM alpha sport, but am only swayed by the fact I like / trust the DMM brand, are there any better alternatives?

Secondly, I am thinking of buying 10, what lengths should I be getting?

Finally do any of the retailers have a history of doing good New Year sales?

Cheers
Gary

slackline

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#1 Re: Which Sport quickdraws, and what length?
December 24, 2013, 09:37:37 am
Everyone will have their brand loyalties/personal preferences.

Friend bought some of the alphas specifically for sports holiday in November, they're nice, handle well, although the gate didn't work too well with a clipstick straight off (could be down to the wire 'catch' on the clip stick having been over used, bending it a bit a few weeks ago at LPT seemed to sort it).

Go for a selection of lengths as you don't know how well (in terms of a straight-line) routes will have been bolted and sometimes you'll want to use a long draw, sometimes short will be fine.

abarro81

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#2 Re: Which Sport quickdraws, and what length?
December 24, 2013, 09:39:59 am
I'd get mostly 20cm ish with a couple of 10cm. Dmms are nice, as are petzl spirits and the black diamond ones with green krabs

abarro81

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#3 Re: Which Sport quickdraws, and what length?
December 24, 2013, 09:45:41 am
Good point from slackline, wire krabs on top end do generally work easier with a stick

moose

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#4 Re: Which Sport quickdraws, and what length?
December 24, 2013, 12:23:09 pm
Friend bought some of the alphas specifically for sports holiday in November, they're nice, handle well, although the gate didn't work too well with a clipstick straight off (could be down to the wire 'catch' on the clip stick having been over used, bending it a bit a few weeks ago at LPT seemed to sort it).

I really like using the alphas.  The gates can be a bit springy when new for an old clipstick but it's a couple of seconds work with pliers to restore the catch on the clipstick to usefulness.  The gates seem to relax as well after a while - mine now have no problems with even battered clipsticks (though I always carry a few wire-gates just in case).  A friend has some of the new lightweight Petzl spirits and those are very nice too - not much in it so price would be my guide.

Lengthwise, I'd recommend a good mixture if possible but it's all a matter of personal taste.  I'm a bit of a coward so tend to carry lots of 10cm quickdraws as I find them more reassuring (my rack is usually half 10cm, and a quarter each 15cm and 20cm).  Less mentally frail people would probably carry far more longer quickdraws.

slackline

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#5 Re: Which Sport quickdraws, and what length?
December 24, 2013, 12:31:40 pm
Yeah, these were brand new draws with a used clip-stick.  Bending the retaining clip on the clip stick sorted it out like you say.

StillTryingForTheTop

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#6 Re: Which Sport quickdraws, and what length?
December 27, 2013, 10:26:44 am
Thanks everyone,
With regards to the longer lengths, I know the advantage is less rope drag on wandering routes, but what is the disadvantage? Or I guess, what advantage are the shorter draws when sport climbing?
Hope everyone had a good Christmas.

Friend bought some of the alphas specifically for sports holiday in November, they're nice, handle well, although the gate didn't work too well with a clipstick straight off (could be down to the wire 'catch' on the clip stick having been over used, bending it a bit a few weeks ago at LPT seemed to sort it).

I really like using the alphas.  The gates can be a bit springy when new for an old clipstick but it's a couple of seconds work with pliers to restore the catch on the clipstick to usefulness.  The gates seem to relax as well after a while - mine now have no problems with even battered clipsticks (though I always carry a few wire-gates just in case).  A friend has some of the new lightweight Petzl spirits and those are very nice too - not much in it so price would be my guide.

Lengthwise, I'd recommend a good mixture if possible but it's all a matter of personal taste.  I'm a bit of a coward so tend to carry lots of 10cm quickdraws as I find them more reassuring (my rack is usually half 10cm, and a quarter each 15cm and 20cm).  Less mentally frail people would probably carry far more longer quickdraws.

slackline

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#7 Re: Which Sport quickdraws, and what length?
December 27, 2013, 11:09:05 am
You don't fall as far. :P

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#8 Re: Which Sport quickdraws, and what length?
December 27, 2013, 05:30:57 pm
lighter too.

I prefer them all slightly longer (18cm it is i think).

StillTryingForTheTop

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StillTryingForTheTop

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Kept it simple in the end, ordered 10 medium sized,
Cheers all

 

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